Nickarla Posted July 5, 2019 Share Posted July 5, 2019 At some point a full strip down will always be required with these sorts of cars. This will often tell you why something isn’t working far batter than others guessing. The Carnage is a simple beast to work on and when you take the plunge to pull it apart you will gain a lot of confidence in how to put everything right again. If anyone needs help putting back together or asking whether certain parts look right upload pictures for us to see and help will be readily available. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamil237237 Posted July 6, 2019 Share Posted July 6, 2019 19 hours ago, Fat Freddy said: Ok, I’m stumped. Have you tried changing the motor? Maybe the contacts inside have corroded and there is a lot of internal resistance. Causing heat and power wearing out fast. Try seeing if a different motor, preferably the stock one. Works with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rompy Posted July 6, 2019 Share Posted July 6, 2019 16 hours ago, AndyHack said: Thanks for replying rompy. It is and it rotated under drive too. It’s as if the front wheels are disengaged? Might explain the wheelies when accelerating! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It sounds like the front differential is kaput! Do you have the manual? If not google for ftx bugsta exploded diagram and you will find some pdfs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyHack Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 It sounds like the front differential is kaput! Do you have the manual? If not google for ftx bugsta exploded diagram and you will find some pdfsAll sorted. The grub screw on the coupling between the drive shaft and diff had come loose and hence wasn’t driving the diff. No more wheelies under acceleration. Thanks for the nudge to start stripping downSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 On 06/07/2019 at 03:34, Jamil237237 said: Have you tried changing the motor? Maybe the contacts inside have corroded and there is a lot of internal resistance. Causing heat and power wearing out fast. Try seeing if a different motor, preferably the stock one. Works with it. He's replaced the speed control, the motor and the battery but the issue remains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamil237237 Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 Welp, either try to replace the receiver and transmitter or just buy a new rc. Or revive the pinion gear and see how freely the rc moves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitling2k Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 @Fat Freddy Not that it's any consolation - but I'm going through exactly the same on my brushed FTX Carnage... I was about to post pretty much the same question as you, but you beat me to it :-D My steering is absolutely fine - but the throttle!! Reverse sometimes refuses to engage. But the killer is the loss of power. It's happened loads. The only thing I can add to your story up to now is that I've watched the actual slow-down twice now. Both times, it's gone from **** of a shovel fast to the sort of speed it goes when the batteries are about to give up. It's a gradual slowing over 2-3 seconds. But same as you, turn it off and back on (although I didn't wait for it to cool); and I'm back to **** off a shovel mode. Nothing is hot or even warm to the touch when it does slow down. I've burnt out two stock ESCs, and I'm now on my 3rd - a Quickrun 1060. Not fixed. I replaced the motor - drop-in stock replacement - and it's 'off-a-shovel speeds are back to what they were BNIB, but it still slows after a few mins. I've re-binded the controller and receiver - and it seemed to make it marginally worse. I dismantled the drive train - and yeah, there were bits of muck and gunk - but nothing much. And it didn't help! I've rerouted the wires in case interference was causing any issues I've tried different NIMH batteries I've replaced controller batteries. My next steps are to try change the transmitter and/or the receiver. I'm thinking a cheap job receiver first - more for the process of elimination then transmitter. Any tips on a cheap receiver that would work in this brushed setup? Is there a way to test the signals being sent, and their translation in the receiver? Or is it just a try it and see job? Cheers Whitling2k 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamil237237 Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, whitling2k said: @Fat Freddy Not that it's any consolation - but I'm going through exactly the same on my brushed FTX Carnage... I was about to post pretty much the same question as you, but you beat me to it 😄 My steering is absolutely fine - but the throttle!! Reverse sometimes refuses to engage. But the killer is the loss of power. It's happened loads. The only thing I can add to your story up to now is that I've watched the actual slow-down twice now. Both times, it's gone from **** of a shovel fast to the sort of speed it goes when the batteries are about to give up. It's a gradual slowing over 2-3 seconds. But same as you, turn it off and back on (although I didn't wait for it to cool); and I'm back to **** off a shovel mode. Nothing is hot or even warm to the touch when it does slow down. I've burnt out two stock ESCs, and I'm now on my 3rd - a Quickrun 1060. Not fixed. I replaced the motor - drop-in stock replacement - and it's 'off-a-shovel speeds are back to what they were BNIB, but it still slows after a few mins. I've re-binded the controller and receiver - and it seemed to make it marginally worse. I dismantled the drive train - and yeah, there were bits of muck and gunk - but nothing much. And it didn't help! I've rerouted the wires in case interference was causing any issues I've tried different NIMH batteries I've replaced controller batteries. My next steps are to try change the transmitter and/or the receiver. I'm thinking a cheap job receiver first - more for the process of elimination then transmitter. Any tips on a cheap receiver that would work in this brushed setup? Is there a way to test the signals being sent, and their translation in the receiver? Or is it just a try it and see job? Cheers Whitling2k DUDE DUDE DUDE DUDE DUDE DUDE DUDE DUDE DUDE I'VE HAD A VERY SIMILAR PROBLEM. My rc uses to run at tip top performance for like 30 seconds and then go into crawl home mode. I checked the batteries voltage. It was fine. It was a nimh battery though. And I took of the wrapper thing and noticed some rust on the connectors. Not sure if that's the main issue. Used my older battery which had less capacity. That worked completely normal. Except it lasted slightly less long hut that's because its really old. As for reverse. The neutral point is buggered. The only way you can fix this is with a recalibrate and getting used to having to pressing and un pressing reverse till it works. Or buy a new trans. I bought the cheapest one on moddelsport which happens to be the new packages stock trans. As for the esc burning out. I don't know how you did that. Theese issues I had was when I was still brushed and nimh. As for lipo conversion, old motor gave up on the first day. New motor lasted a month. Next maintainable motor broke because wrong size and turns and it overheated and melted lel. Edit. : I'm a moron. I read everything except the battery part. Duck me. Edited July 8, 2019 by Jamil237237 I'm dumb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper1968 Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 (edited) OK gone through several pages and just not got time to read it all lol. Going or planning on buying Hobbyking Quanum Vandal brushless RTR. From what I have seen it's another version of the FTX Vantage, just sold by Hobbyking under a different name along with I think lower spec brushless motor and esc. Not a track near me to run on so mainly just going to run it about where I live to start. So anyone else run a Vandal in this thread? Edited July 8, 2019 by Viper1968 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tintin Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 (edited) Hi Viper, I think there are several who do. If you use the search function at the top right, you can search just within this topic and be able to jump to the posts with "Vandal" in it. Yes the Quanum Vandal is the same as an FTX Vantage. All the parts are interchangebale. Alhtough several parts on the Hobbyking site now show as being out of stock. Welcome aboard! Edited July 8, 2019 by Tintin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tintin Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 So I got fed up waiting to see if a replacement rear wing would come back into stock on Hobbyking, and didn't like how quickly the FTX one fell apart.... So I took a punt and bought one on ebay for £5 (although you can get them for half that if willing to wait for a month to ship from China) Wasn't sure if it would fit or if I would need to modify it and cut away a section for the shock towers. In the end I just made little aluminium blocks to raise it up a bit. Pleased withthe look, need to test it, I mean break it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darthtaterm16 Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 Hello. New carnage owner here. Ive (unsurprisingly) stripped the spur gear already. What are the best options to replace? Don’t think I’ll be putting a standard part back in also, how difficult is the slipper clutch to take apart/rebuild? I’ve never touched a slipper clutch before. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper1968 Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 Ty Tintin. Well Hobbyking is still out of stock on the vandal so guess I need to wait patiently... Never been good at that though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tintin Posted July 9, 2019 Share Posted July 9, 2019 (edited) The parts have been steadily going out of stock for about 6 months, I had't realsied the cars are not as well. I was waiting on Carnage bumpers, sway bars, shock towers, and a spoiler. ☹️ That was why I started looking on ebay for other bits. Might be they are phasing out old stock to release something new? There is a KIT one on ebay at the moment, but you would need to buy the rest of the bits. In truth, you might end up with a better buggy becasue you can spec what you want. Need rec/transmitter, ESC, motor, battery, & servo. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Car-Quanum-Vandal-1-10-4WD-Electric-Racing-Buggy-KIT-/173951802271?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 I am sure the guys on here would be able to advise on a good combo for what you need. Edited July 9, 2019 by Tintin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper1968 Posted July 9, 2019 Share Posted July 9, 2019 (edited) Stock is steadily declining. They are saying stock of the vandal will be back in UK end of September. I would go for the kit but the amount it would cost that way is more then I can do :(. I will just have to wait. Building up funds still so biding my time and chatting will do for now lol. Edited July 9, 2019 by Viper1968 Added more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted July 9, 2019 Share Posted July 9, 2019 On 05/07/2019 at 15:13, mydoddy69 said: To be honest I can’t even remember what the problem was now 🤷♂️🤷♂️. But if you replaced all but 2 things then I’m guessing your problem is with the last 2 failing that a bottle of petrol and a match will cure it for sure 🤣🤣🤣 Don’t tempt me 🤔🤪😢 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitling2k Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 On 08/07/2019 at 16:51, Jamil237237 said: DUDE DUDE DUDE DUDE DUDE DUDE DUDE DUDE DUDE I'VE HAD A VERY SIMILAR PROBLEM. My rc uses to run at tip top performance for like 30 seconds and then go into crawl home mode. I checked the batteries voltage. It was fine. It was a nimh battery though. And I took of the wrapper thing and noticed some rust on the connectors. Not sure if that's the main issue. Used my older battery which had less capacity. That worked completely normal. Except it lasted slightly less long hut that's because its really old. As for reverse. The neutral point is buggered. The only way you can fix this is with a recalibrate and getting used to having to pressing and un pressing reverse till it works. Or buy a new trans. I bought the cheapest one on moddelsport which happens to be the new packages stock trans. As for the esc burning out. I don't know how you did that. Theese issues I had was when I was still brushed and nimh. As for lipo conversion, old motor gave up on the first day. New motor lasted a month. Next maintainable motor broke because wrong size and turns and it overheated and melted lel. Edit. : I'm a moron. I read everything except the battery part. Duck me. That's fair enough.... Good idea though - I've not checked with a different battery since I've changed the motor and ESC... There hope (a little) yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james wigg Posted July 13, 2019 Share Posted July 13, 2019 I’ve just bought one. Second hand with postage £60. Lets see what it is. Brushed or unbrushed etc. Obvs I’m gonna tinker with it. Can’t wait. 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted July 13, 2019 Share Posted July 13, 2019 On 08/07/2019 at 11:54, whitling2k said: @Fat Freddy Not that it's any consolation - but I'm going through exactly the same on my brushed FTX Carnage... I was about to post pretty much the same question as you, but you beat me to it :-D My steering is absolutely fine - but the throttle!! Reverse sometimes refuses to engage. But the killer is the loss of power. It's happened loads. The only thing I can add to your story up to now is that I've watched the actual slow-down twice now. Both times, it's gone from **** of a shovel fast to the sort of speed it goes when the batteries are about to give up. It's a gradual slowing over 2-3 seconds. But same as you, turn it off and back on (although I didn't wait for it to cool); and I'm back to **** off a shovel mode. Nothing is hot or even warm to the touch when it does slow down. I've burnt out two stock ESCs, and I'm now on my 3rd - a Quickrun 1060. Not fixed. I replaced the motor - drop-in stock replacement - and it's 'off-a-shovel speeds are back to what they were BNIB, but it still slows after a few mins. I've re-binded the controller and receiver - and it seemed to make it marginally worse. I dismantled the drive train - and yeah, there were bits of muck and gunk - but nothing much. And it didn't help! I've rerouted the wires in case interference was causing any issues I've tried different NIMH batteries I've replaced controller batteries. My next steps are to try change the transmitter and/or the receiver. I'm thinking a cheap job receiver first - more for the process of elimination then transmitter. Any tips on a cheap receiver that would work in this brushed setup? Is there a way to test the signals being sent, and their translation in the receiver? Or is it just a try it and see job? Cheers Whitling2k Interesting.... my local model shop proprietor has been enormously helpful but this has him stumped too. He has even been kind enough to check over the car and confirm everything is moving freely. He then agreed to swap the 1060 Esc, even though he was clearly (and it turned out correctly) unconvinced it was faulty. I’m fitting a non-stock motor today, in the (vain?) hope that my replacement stock motor is in some way dodgy. That means the only original electronic components left are the transmitter and receiver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mydoddy69 Posted July 13, 2019 Share Posted July 13, 2019 On 08/07/2019 at 17:10, Viper1968 said: OK gone through several pages and just not got time to read it all lol. Going or planning on buying Hobbyking Quanum Vandal brushless RTR. From what I have seen it's another version of the FTX Vantage, just sold by Hobbyking under a different name along with I think lower spec brushless motor and esc. Not a track near me to run on so mainly just going to run it about where I live to start. So anyone else run a Vandal in this thread? I have a Vandal yep there the exact same thing as the vantage 👍👍 The best place to buy is hobbyking id get the kit so you can pop your own radio and electrics in as there seems to endless faults with stock electrics. Combos servos and radio gear can all be had cheap enough and your get a better car at the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 On 13/07/2019 at 12:13, Fat Freddy said: Interesting.... my local model shop proprietor has been enormously helpful but this has him stumped too. He has even been kind enough to check over the car and confirm everything is moving freely. He then agreed to swap the 1060 Esc, even though he was clearly (and it turned out correctly) unconvinced it was faulty. I’m fitting a non-stock motor today, in the (vain?) hope that my replacement stock motor is in some way dodgy. That means the only original electronic components left are the transmitter and receiver. That seems the logical way of going about finding out what's causing the issue. Do you have or know anyone with spare radio gear you could try on it also? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper1968 Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 Yes might buy a vandal kit and do just that with the motor n esc I got two hpi 2.4 radio sets in couple of nitro rc's. Or just invest In a radio that can run all my electric rc,s when I have more lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 16 hours ago, Hardcore said: That seems the logical way of going about finding out what's causing the issue. Do you have or know anyone with spare radio gear you could try on it also? I wish I did. If it turns out my existing transmitter/ receiver Is faulty then surely covered on warranty? I will no doubt find a use for a “spare” set up at some point in the future if I have to go as far as buying new. Seems like a lot of money to splash out just to demonstrate something is faulty though. Tbh I thought radio gear either worked or didn’t. Anyone ever hear of faulty radio gear that starts off ok then goes wrong during use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mydoddy69 Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 1 hour ago, Fat Freddy said: I wish I did. If it turns out my existing transmitter/ receiver Is faulty then surely covered on warranty? I will no doubt find a use for a “spare” set up at some point in the future if I have to go as far as buying new. Seems like a lot of money to splash out just to demonstrate something is faulty though. Tbh I thought radio gear either worked or didn’t. Anyone ever hear of faulty radio gear that starts off ok then goes wrong during use? Sadly the FTX stuff is extremely hit and miss some last as long as the car some just a few weeks, surely the guy in your local shop would have already checked this though ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, mydoddy69 said: Sadly the FTX stuff is extremely hit and miss some last as long as the car some just a few weeks, surely the guy in your local shop would have already checked this though ? Can you “check” for faults like this? Back in the day (30+ yrs ago) I had radio gear pack in, just stop working, but I never had a fault like this. It either worked, or it didn’t, no middle ground. I’m not sure how much the tech has really moved on, these days it’s all digital isn’t it(?) I have no idea how much of a leap that is from the old school crystal sets so no idea what is or isn’t possible. How easy is it to check how well a transmitter transmits, or a receiver receives? Is a local independent shop likely to have the required equipment to do it? I’ve not taken the radio gear in since early on in this little saga, but good point, will pop in tomorrow with it and see what he says. I don’t have money to burn but can just about run to a cheapish set of radio gear that will no doubt be an improvement on the ftx stuff, even if it doesn’t solve my little mystery. tbh, I’m waiting to find out it’s something embarrassingly obvious that I should have spotted from the start. Edited July 15, 2019 by Fat Freddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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