Jamil237237

Are you still having trouble taking it off by any chance?

If yer a cheapskate like me you could just cut thin plastic packaging and use it to cover any hole that would let big rocks into the spur and pinion. Metal is more set and forget though. Might get that one day.

Two years later. This is somewhat a dead topic but we still have our one. After being abandoned for about two years, we got the rc out and checked what was wrong with it. It was put out of service because of lazyness and a misdiagnosis. Servo saver appeared to be weak. Rc wouldn't steer properly. Ordered adjustable servo horn with servo saver. Forever on backorder till it was cancelled. Procrastination. Younger brother decides to start using it again anyway recently. Gears get eaten up. Order lipo, gears (spur and pinion), and three ftx colt motors (for future use, still no idea if it will fit), and the servo saver that comes with other stuff I don't need. The lipo is overlander super sport. 2900mah 2s. Would fit in the tray if it wasn't for the wire sticking out. The wire, I forgot to take account that the wire would stick out and it doesn't fit. Mounting it sideways with velcro doesn't seem too bad. Don't wanna chop up the sides, that will definately weaken the chassis. Hot glue is too weak. May super glue velcro. Servo mount is showing issues. Two of three screws keeping the mount in place turn when they shouldn't. Meaning it's been stripped. I wonder what ate up the gears? Also while ordering parts I noticed something. It's very hard to find parts for this thing. Helion motors arn't in stock from UK retailers, motor mounts either, or compatible batteries as quite a few 18 scale have tiny batteries. And the helion tray is slightly ever so goddamn slightly too small for most batteries I've seen online. Even the one I ordered is too big because the wire sticks out from the side. Maybe it's probably because this battery wasn't designed for that. Ah crap. Having a wide steering angle makes the dog bones pop out way to easily btw so yee. Any help and advice would be appreciated. I still have one of these and would like to not just abandon it just yet. Or is this platform dead and are there any similar alternatives?

Depends how often you use it. My new motor burnt out within a month. That's why I suggested a serviceable motor. Doesn't even cost much to service per month. Only downside is muck and stuff can enter much more easily.

Open market. No good performance brushless esc. Its not feasible. Making a brushed motor good probably costs more than making a brushless motor. Since you just don't like the idea of pumping cash into a cheap platform (which is what I did), look into serviceable motors. A lipo battery should give it a bit more performance, and the serviceable motor allows you to reduce costs when the brushes wear out. Rather than spending 20 pounds a month, it's just 20 a year. POSSIBLY. I'm fine with my carnage which I've but in a brushless system and a high strength and speedy servo for faster turning. But all I do is bash on nothing too extreme. Doesn't really see jumps. And I don't think speed bumps count.

Curious on why you bought the rc. You seem to have nothing but problems with it. The spur is prone to clogging but cheap plastic packaging can fix that with a little DIY. Close the holes in the motor mount with it. This rc is cheap to run and doesn't really need maintainence if you just bash and keep it stock without lipo. Great to learn on but as a platform it pretty much sucks unless you get janky with some zip ties. It's cheap plastic but it's light plastic. Great if you gut it and put quality electronics. Or maybe sketchy ones that don't last long. Maybe not the newer ones as the plastic feels different. I bought mine four, wait. 5 years ago.... Has it really been that long?

Slipper clutch just dampens sudden forces. As for motor, you do install them correctly right? Paper thin gap between the gears? And when you mean burn through motors, do they straight up just stop working? What's the voltage on your battery?

Ackshwally it does. Well it depends. Depending on the motor timing setup, they go slightly faster in a certain direction. Esc sometimes intentionally make reverse slower so trying to figure out which way its supposed to be is probably not worth it for that extra 1mph. It's up to you. Also you don't need to swap the diffs. Just swap the wire connections. Works on both brushed and brushless setups. You'll need to recalibrate and I have no idea which color is what. They're probably color coded right?

If I'm correct, the beeps are actually made by the motor. Check the connection between the motor and esc. Also this may be really bad advice because my 14 year old self came up with this method but, disconnect the motor and power it directly with a battery. If the motor spins, the motor still works. If it doesn't. Welp there's your problem. I've done this myself as a 14 year old. I'm not dead but I'm still pretty darn sure it's probably a safety hazard. I had a spare battery which capacity went poof so I cut off the leads on it and just used it like that to test. make sure you don't accidently short out the battery by accidently making the motor connectors touch while touching the battery or you'll have a fire hazard that can't be easily put out. I don't recommend doing this and I accept no liability for damage. Or you could do something much safer. Recalibrate the rc. Or buy a new motor and esc. It's not like they cost much anyway. Also someone please comment on my method. It works but I'm sure it's dangerous right?

Wiggle the motor and see how much it moves. I'm guessing the motor is loose. Some threadlock and tightening should fix that. But first, research on how to set up the gear mesh correctly.

I haven't done this myself but I read a post here a while ago. Glue the stock servo saver shut and replace the servo horn with one that has a built in servo saver. You'll have to research compatibility with your servo though. Some have different teeth on them.

I got 30 mins outta those. Bad charging and storing habits can damage nimh. I can't remember the specifics. So your gonna have to consult the almighty Google. I managed to damage mine so bad it'd just instantly go into crawl home mode on my rc. There are ways to revive the battery but I can't remember. I didn't drive on grass a lot but I did constantly gun it whenever I could.

I can't remember how hot the motor gets. But just in case, check your rc's bearings from time to time. Dirt and wear can increase the load on the motor and reduce performance.

A gear down would increase acceleration and reduce top speed. It would also reduce wear on the motor but possibly increase wear on the drive train as now it has to accelerate fast. I have no real idea how badly it'd hit everything and judging that it's a nimh, you probably don't have to worry. Probably. But if you mean changing the motor to a lower t. Uh. If I recall, lower t more rpm and less torque. It may heat up and die. Higher t on motor. Less rpm more torque.. It'd increase top speed and it'd heat up more to go to a lower t motor

Four years ago it'd come with a transmiter with exactly those features lol. Not anymore!. In modelsport, the cheaoest combo I could find was the d-103. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/dromida-d103-3-channel-transmitter/rc-car-products/405209. The spectrum stx2 also has these features but probably costs more. Is it me or do most transmitters look ugly? I like plain and blocky looks like the etronix pulse ex2. Ex3 looks ugly to me. And cheap. Looks like the replaced rubber with foam. Finding a nice looking modern Transmitter that isn't expensive is going to be hard isn't it.

Sorry for the late reply. Check the drive train. Take off the pinion gear and perform the same test. If it moves without issue. Yup it's the motor. If it's still sticks, disconnect the drive shaft in the middle and perform the same test except you'll lift either the back or the rear wheek into the air. Figure out which one of them gets stuck. You probably know what to do anyway but just in case ; just isolate which parts get stuck to find the problem.

I have the exact same one. It's a hpi Ford F 350. I can't remember why but I cut it in such a way I couldn't fit my front bumper back on. Was it on purpose or a mistake I can't remember. You have to paint it yourself. That guy managed to do it though. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-ford-f-350-truck-body-nitro-mt-rush-/rc-car-products/12219

When you rotate the wheels, do you rotate both the front or back wheels at the same time? If not. All your testing is the differential. You need to rotate both wheels in the same direction to actually check if there's anything wrong anywhere else. To be clear. Rotate the front wheels together in the same direction. Or the back wheels together in the same direction. Or even better, just push it forwards and backwards like a toy car. Also if your having issues with reverse, try recalibratibg your transmitter.

Nice shade of blue. I did a silly move and used an ugly light baby ish blue. I used some random matte black paint as a base coat. Didn't really effect the blue much at all.

*wheeze*. How did that happen? Were you using the stock ftx motor with a lipo? Or was it a cheap brushless system?

The carbon pieces haven't received an update at all. Yup, it's exposed. As for gears. Make sure they're the correct distance apart. Make sure you can fit a sheet of paper between the gears. As for sway bars, I don't have them so eh.

The controller, its probably the neutral point shifting or something. My old transmitter had that issue and it disappeared with the new transmitter. As for burning out motors. Lipos do that. If you drive every day it'll last about maybe a month. If you don't want to replace the entire motor that often, get a motor with serviceable brushes. Also try breaking into your motor first. (I'm too lazy to do that lol). Or just go brushless.

Just for future notice. I am weak and I did it without needle nose pliars. The technique in my case was simple. Using the tips of the e clip, I pushed down the spring and then slid the e clip in. I don't know if they made the spring stronger now. So I don't know if it still works.

There may be a commuication error here, And i really don't want to take apart my rc for pictures. but basically, where theres a joint that allows movement is where you could take apart the cvd is what I mean. in the older ones you just had to remove the rubber ring from the outside, slide a pin out and *oh no it fell down the sink* . Thats actually what happened.

I'm quite late to post this, last year was when you guys were discussing the carnage 2.0. There are quite a few differences from the original carnage that you won't notice because the carnage did get updates without a name change. They just got so many changes they probably thought, why not just call it 2.0 at this point? I got mine yeaaaars ago. Since buying replacement parts, I gradually saw some of the changes. Changes inlcude : esc (looks like the cheap hobbywing one everyone suggests, old one couldn't use lipo, this one can I think) chasis plate (they got rid of the holes in the battery tray and under the spur gear) spur gear cover (comes in two parts and covers the gears much more compared to the original, also no holes anymore) radio (I don't think I have to explain) CVD (original ones could be taken apart, new ones can't) bodyshell (I guess to defrentiate) motor heatsink (Just look) chrome wheels (they're chrome) Maybe some changes I haven't noticed because the stock parts haven't broken. The other thing i've noticed is the plastic just looks and feels different. Probably because my plastic is years old maybe? There have been changes to the carnage for sure. Just taken forever you probably didn't notice. At least four things actually changed about the carnage. The only serious changes are the spur gear cover, chasis plate and the esc. Maybe the radio too idk. New one is definately more heavier because of all the patched up holes. You guys notice anything I didn't? I haven't bashed mine in a while. A rock finally got into my gears. took it's time.