Addwhite Posted September 23, 2018 Share Posted September 23, 2018 21 minutes ago, daveyboi73 said: I have always shimmed my diffs and havent broken a single one yet. Maybe your slipper clutch is to tight ?. Any way, ill have a look at a better crown and pinion, no worries Awsome!... The would certainly sell well ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted September 23, 2018 Share Posted September 23, 2018 Yep, the internal diffs are never an issue. Grease, oil etc is not the issue. Slipper is not the problem. It is as many have said the soft pot metal, it really is naff. The flex in the chassis also contributes as it pulls the crown from the pinion. It is these two issues that constantly cause the gears to break. I have tried shimming the pinion further into the crown gear. It looks like it should improve things, I just haven’t been able to get out enough to test. All other shimming attempts (side to side movements) have failed. Daveyboi, how have you shimmed yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamil237237 Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 Got my shock oil, alum hex hubs and rubber seals. I'm broke. How much did I spend on this thing? The ftx carnage is just a blank rc that gets modified hard. Does anyone keep it stock? Nope. That desire for performance is what's expensive. The carnage has no real personality. So we give it one. I guess that's the beauty of it. It's weak so it has to grow. I'm probably never going to get rid of mine. I may get more rc cars but I don't think I'll easily let the carnage go. As for the drivetrain. Maybe grease it? Or maybe replace it with another models. Someone needs to buy a new diff. And compare it with a worn one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 (edited) I’d be interested to know whether anyone has noticed a difference using the ali chassis plate. There are a few upgrades but unfortunately the main one that’s needed (gears) are unavailable. Edited September 25, 2018 by Nickarla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveyboi73 Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 Cant remember of the the top of my head how i shimmed it ill tear it down and check tonight. I ran the alloy chassis for a while on my old carnage. It stiffens the drive train etc and stop the chassis flex, in turn keep stuff in place unlike the bendy stock item. The downside is where the stock item absorbs some of the crash/jump landing energy, the alloy one does not, it instead transfers the energy to other weaker components such as a-arms. I currently run the stock chassis with the carbon top plate, stffens chassis enough to keep things in line. Im also looking at the crown and pinion, yeah the metal isnt the best, so will have a look at a hardened steel version ASAP. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 10 hours ago, Jamil237237 said: Got my shock oil, alum hex hubs and rubber seals. I'm broke. How much did I spend on this thing? The ftx carnage is just a blank rc that gets modified hard. Does anyone keep it stock? Nope. That desire for performance is what's expensive. The carnage has no real personality. So we give it one. I guess that's the beauty of it. It's weak so it has to grow. I'm probably never going to get rid of mine. I may get more rc cars but I don't think I'll easily let the carnage go. As for the drivetrain. Maybe grease it? Or maybe replace it with another models. Someone needs to buy a new diff. And compare it with a worn one One thing I'd strongly recommend for shocks is Green Slime. I don't rebuild shocks without it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 5 hours ago, daveyboi73 said: Cant remember of the the top of my head how i shimmed it ill tear it down and check tonight. I ran the alloy chassis for a while on my old carnage. It stiffens the drive train etc and stop the chassis flex, in turn keep stuff in place unlike the bendy stock item. The downside is where the stock item absorbs some of the crash/jump landing energy, the alloy one does not, it instead transfers the energy to other weaker components such as a-arms. I currently run the stock chassis with the carbon top plate, stffens chassis enough to keep things in line. Im also looking at the crown and pinion, yeah the metal isnt the best, so will have a look at a hardened steel version ASAP. Do you know how much they would be? Also, I like the carbon top deck but I can’t have one on my newer chassis as it has the spur gear cover to stop stones etc from escaping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamil237237 Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 I'm going to tighten my slipper. That thing, if it wears out, I'm done for. Time to tighten it excessively. I like having immediate power delivery. Wears out everything else but. I think it's too loose at the moment for the kinda power a brush less setup has. Wait, someone was wondering how to prevent the slipper from slipping. Could use super glue, and use super glue debonder when I need to replace the spur. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveyboi73 Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 On 23/09/2018 at 22:29, Nickarla said: Yep, the internal diffs are never an issue. Grease, oil etc is not the issue. Slipper is not the problem. It is as many have said the soft pot metal, it really is naff. The flex in the chassis also contributes as it pulls the crown from the pinion. It is these two issues that constantly cause the gears to break. I have tried shimming the pinion further into the crown gear. It looks like it should improve things, I just haven’t been able to get out enough to test. All other shimming attempts (side to side movements) have failed. Daveyboi, how have you shimmed yours? Popped front diff out . As in the pic i use 3 shims non crown side before bearing and 2 shims crown side before bearing. I also use a TRAXXAS teflon washer (Part no TRX1985) behind the pinion to push it into the ring gear. I just pack gearbox full of grease befor reassembly . Have slight wear on the crown and drive gear but nothing major as of yet. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveyboi73 Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 25 minutes ago, Jamil237237 said: I'm going to tighten my slipper. That thing, if it wears out, I'm done for. Time to tighten it excessively. I like having immediate power delivery. Wears out everything else but. I think it's too loose at the moment for the kinda power a brush less setup has. Wait, someone was wondering how to prevent the slipper from slipping. Could use super glue, and use super glue debonder when I need to replace the spur. Do that and you will break the spur gear or diffs. The slipper reduces chance of direct drivetrain damage to driveline. Tighten it a bit but not all the way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 That’s the way I tried. It caused a lot of friction and didn’t work well. I need to take the car out with the shimming I’ve done on the pinion gear. It pushes the pinion right into the crown gear, reducing movement a lot but means that it no longer spins on the bearing. Will report back when I try it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 As above, don’t superglue. Just tighten a bit but not too tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveyboi73 Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, Nickarla said: Do you know how much they would be? Also, I like the carbon top deck but I can’t have one on my newer chassis as it has the spur gear cover to stop stones etc from escaping. I will look at getting the crown and pinion done in hard steel like the spur sets. I reckon two ring and pinions would work out at about £15 - 20 ish for the set. I run the 32DP steel set on my carnage, run fine without the guards : ) Edited September 25, 2018 by daveyboi73 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 That sound an ok price. How do you make them as we tried to commission RW to make them and they said it was too hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveyboi73 Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 Ah ok . Yeah Neil at RW wont do bevel gears, ive tried in the past :(. I know a few engineers who can do this sort of thing, and i usually mess around on my dads lathe/ mill etc too :). If i can find a cost effective way to sort these i will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennylogknob Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 Count me in for some if you manage it. I've just rebuilt my front diff for the umpteenth time but I know it'll not be the last time. On the plus side I can now do it blindfolded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 I would definitely have a couple of sets. So would my uncle ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly In My Soup Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 You should tighten your slipper all the way then back it off half to a full turn... If you find your slipper isn't doing its job even if it's fully tightened, then you'll need a new slipper shaft spring....also, taking of your slipper and scuffing it up with sandpaper is a good way of rejuvenating a smoother slipper pad 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 I, my son and my nephew would buy some, price and quality dependant of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamil237237 Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 My clutch was loose. Tightened it. Still loose, flipped plates tightened it to the max. I think it is still loose at high rpms. Or I'm crazy. Which is possible and I have thought something was Brocken when it's not, many times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly In My Soup Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 25 minutes ago, Jamil237237 said: My clutch was loose. Tightened it. Still loose, flipped plates tightened it to the max. I think it is still loose at high rpms. Or I'm crazy. Which is possible and I have thought something was Brocken when it's not, many times Go get yourself a new slipper shaft spring...don't forget to use a nyloc nut! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tintin Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 How many people have the Vantage, and how many have the Quanam Vandal? I have seen lots of posts suggesting that the Vandal parts are cheaper and drop in, but there doesn't appear to many people on here who have actually bought the car to start with. Why is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 6 hours ago, Tintin said: How many people have the Vantage, and how many have the Quanam Vandal? I have seen lots of posts suggesting that the Vandal parts are cheaper and drop in, but there doesn't appear to many people on here who have actually bought the car to start with. Why is that? Thats a good question. You can pick up the brushless vandal rtr on hobbyking for £103..... That is a lot of car for that price.... Cheaper than the brushed vantage. The wheels and tyres are not as good as the ftx ones, i tried those when i had my vantage. Oh and i dont like the rear wing.. But other than that its the same. Not sure how the electronics compare to the photon etronix stuff but at that price who cares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 The FTX is cheaper and you generally have better support. I paid £95 for my Bugsta brand new from Timetunnel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 Just checked, the Vantage is £92 with the battery and charger delete...which you definitely want to do as they are not worth 50p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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