Gari_Ferret Posted August 16, 2022 Share Posted August 16, 2022 On 11/08/2022 at 06:27, windz1000r said: I can recommend the hobbywing quickrun 120amp £42 and runs very nicely Mines pared with a 4.5turn brushless motor I did look at that tbh but saw it was a sensored ESC and taught it was only for sensored but now I see it can also run sensorless, so thank you for the recommendation, hopefully it won't quite literally melt like the etronix ones when I can get it, also need to get a faster servo but getting it actually running is more important. 😅 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted August 19, 2022 Share Posted August 19, 2022 Hi all after a wild day bashing my carnage about towards the last 20mins of my last batt the carnage started to make a rough clicking sound so I thought might be a stone in the pinon/gear no all clear and night an tight so soon as I pulled the trigger slow built up speed it was quiet but flying start there the noise was back so I think it's my cogs in the back might be bit worn as it's my hobbywing set up so time to open the car up and see what iv broken or worn 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 Well stripped the carnage down got thro the peanut butter an bits of metal to find iv stripped 5 teeth of the big cog in the gear box . I had a pair spare so iv swapped an fitted all back together. One of the small shims all bent out a shape and catching when you turned the wheels . All nice and smooth again . Bashing weds Swansea beach . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaldyMan Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 Installed a steel pinion and an acetal spur gear to the Vantage and the awful grinding noise has subsided. Looks like it's very easy for grit to get into the pinion on these and it just chews up the stock brass and plastic parts. Hopefully the better components last longer and I'll just avoid running it in too much gravel. Was just about to put it all back together and take it for a run when I noticed the drive shaft is mangled so that's been out on order and I've been running it in 2WD for now. It just wants to donut constantly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaldyMan Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 On 17/07/2022 at 16:36, Simmy said: I may, only may, have found a wing that doesn’t break at the sight of a bit of wind modelsport didn’t have any Vantage wings in stock so I took a chance on this which is still FTX but for another model. Part number FTX9085 Needs a bit of Modding to fit by moving the mounts back and drilling out the holes in the wing but I’ve flipped it a few times without it breaking time will tell….. any recommendations for Road Tyres for this model as you can tell, I’ve stripped the FTX ones. I’ve tried the Fastrax ones but they are delicate, I’ve split them catching a kerb. Get the wing for the Absima AB3.4 buggy. It'll need a bit of bodging to fit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gari_Ferret Posted November 4, 2022 Share Posted November 4, 2022 Trying to find an aluminium gearbox for the vantage as I've always found the plastic ones to be too brittle, also need stronger cups on the outputs of the rear diff, any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted November 4, 2022 Share Posted November 4, 2022 1 minute ago, Gari_Ferret said: Trying to find an aluminium gearbox for the vantage as I've always found the plastic ones to be too brittle, also need stronger cups on the outputs of the rear diff, any ideas? Got a pic, i thought the vantage has a slipper and a rear diff output no gearbox, unless your wanting a metal spur gear? Yes they do those. If your smashing cups, the next fail point will be the drive shafts or ring and pinion diff gears, the question id be asking why are the cups smashing, ive had ftx cups over 100mph they seem to hold up just fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gari_Ferret Posted November 4, 2022 Share Posted November 4, 2022 (edited) 25 minutes ago, Redback said: Got a pic, i thought the vantage has a slipper and a rear diff output no gearbox, unless your wanting a metal spur gear? Yes they do those. If your smashing cups, the next fail point will be the drive shafts or ring and pinion diff gears, the question id be asking why are the cups smashing, ive had ftx cups over 100mph they seem to hold up just fine. Everywhere calls the front and rear diffs "gearboxes" which makes no sense but meh, I found that the plastic ones have a tendency to break at the screw holes for the upper chassis plate/brace if you hit a jump in the wrong way(I know it's not a basher but you'd still expect it to take some abuse), as for the cups, it's almost like the pins on the rear shafts(which also bend and twist) are slowly ripping through them on an etronics 4350kv motor, 3s 50c lipo, 49T steel spur, 24T pinion. I might just stock up on spares when I can, they're cheap enough to do so. Edited November 4, 2022 by Gari_Ferret 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted November 4, 2022 Share Posted November 4, 2022 52 minutes ago, Gari_Ferret said: I found that the plastic ones have a tendency to break at the screw holes for the upper chassis plate/brace if you hit a jump in the wrong way Theres no ally ones, yep they aint the strongest, the shock towers should break before the diff cover, but im guessing your running carbon or metal towers so all the force is going into the diff housing. 53 minutes ago, Gari_Ferret said: as for the cups, it's almost like the pins on the rear shafts(which also bend and twist) are slowly ripping through them This is normal wear, they will eventually fail but should take a fair bit to wear them out, try putting a bit of rubber hose or o ring in the cup to stop the dogbone bouncing around as that can increase wear at speed. yes ftx dogbones are made of cheese. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gari_Ferret Posted November 10, 2022 Share Posted November 10, 2022 On 04/11/2022 at 22:32, Redback said: Theres no ally ones, yep they aint the strongest, the shock towers should break before the diff cover, but im guessing your running carbon or metal towers so all the force is going into the diff housing. This is normal wear, they will eventually fail but should take a fair bit to wear them out, try putting a bit of rubber hose or o ring in the cup to stop the dogbone bouncing around as that can increase wear at speed. yes ftx dogbones are made of cheese. Not running metal or carbon towers, as for the o-ring in the cup, that is something I thought about doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon S Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 Guys, is there a part we can buy to cover the gap in the chassis that leaves the spur exposed? Pic below. I think the Vantage V2 has this sorted. I posted something about this in the general forum but I’m guessing this might be the place for it. Thanks!! Gordon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted December 26, 2022 Share Posted December 26, 2022 On 19/12/2022 at 12:08, Gordon S said: Guys, is there a part we can buy to cover the gap in the chassis that leaves the spur exposed? Pic below. I think the Vantage V2 has this sorted. I posted something about this in the general forum but I’m guessing this might be the place for it. Thanks!! Gordon It’s best to leave open, as any debris laying in the chassis whilst in use may chew the gear up. A simple mod would be to secure a piece of thin stainless sheet, using the 4 closest screws surrounding the spur. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon S Posted December 27, 2022 Share Posted December 27, 2022 Thanks buddy. 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyBeeHowMuchThereIsToC Posted December 28, 2022 Share Posted December 28, 2022 (edited) Hey! Have you guys thought about carbon top plate with full spur cover? It might need some modification, but if you cut carbon top plate to fit part#6260, it may be possible. Edit. After thinking about it, this should be best option to go. Top plate is attached to motor mount and full spur cover. Will try this out some day. Edited December 29, 2022 by JohnnyBeeHowMuchThereIsToC Added photo and thought over 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChewieMcBacca Posted December 31, 2022 Share Posted December 31, 2022 Hi Everyone, So after thinking about getting an RC car for a while I got a Vantage for Christmas and after having a race around the street I managed to crash into some steps in my garden and have broken the front plate, top plate and on closer inspection the gearbox/dif housing. The wife is a bit annoyed that I've already managed to break my Chrsitmas present, but I'm looking forward to jumping into fixing it and getting back up and running. In the process of ordering some parts the parts I need so hopefully should be up and running again in a week or so. Added a few pictures of the damage, anything else I should be considering other than the obvious? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted December 31, 2022 Share Posted December 31, 2022 must have been some impact, surprised it snapped in half but also not as ftx chassis are glass. Check the lower arm pin holders havent snapped, they usally go before the arms and chassis. Metal lower front plate and top metal or carbon fiber will be stronger, but then other things will fail, luckly ftx spares are pretty cheap 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChewieMcBacca Posted December 31, 2022 Share Posted December 31, 2022 41 minutes ago, Redback said: must have been some impact, surprised it snapped in half but also not as ftx chassis are glass. Check the lower arm pin holders havent snapped, they usally go before the arms and chassis. Metal lower front plate and top metal or carbon fiber will be stronger, but then other things will fail, luckly ftx spares are pretty cheap Hey Redback, think it was a bit of a combination of inexperience and hitting it at the weird angle, plus driving it in too small of a space in the back garden. Thanks for the lookout on the pin holders, will give then a check over. I was looking to get the alluminium front plate, and saw the CF top plate, but wasn't sure about that. From what I can tell does the CF top plate mean removing the spur/pinion housing, would that not leave them more exposed and at risk of more damage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted December 31, 2022 Share Posted December 31, 2022 You have just learned the first lesson of RC. RTR doesn’t mean “ready to run”, it means “ready to repair” 🤣 Luckily parts are cheap for these. Amazed you managed to do all that damage without breaking a swing arm! would recommend replacing top plate with carbon fibre option but resist temptation to get too many alloy parts. The single best upgrade for these in my opinion is a steel spur and pinion. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChewieMcBacca Posted December 31, 2022 Share Posted December 31, 2022 1 hour ago, Fat Freddy said: You have just learned the first lesson of RC. RTR doesn’t mean “ready to run”, it means “ready to repair” 🤣 Luckily parts are cheap for these. Amazed you managed to do all that damage without breaking a swing arm! would recommend replacing top plate with carbon fibre option but resist temptation to get too many alloy parts. The single best upgrade for these in my opinion is a steel spur and pinion. Hey Freddy, Thanks, yeah ready to repair sounds about right, hasn't dampened the enthusiasm though. I'm just waiting on a few bits I've ordered (mat and stand) and I'm going to start pulling it to pieces and see if there is anything else broken/bent. A lot have said about the carbon top plate so will take a look at that. Does that leave the pinion and spur exposed though? As the carbon piece seems to extend beyond the normal top plate? Or am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted December 31, 2022 Share Posted December 31, 2022 1 hour ago, ChewieMcBacca said: Hey Freddy, Thanks, yeah ready to repair sounds about right, hasn't dampened the enthusiasm though. I'm just waiting on a few bits I've ordered (mat and stand) and I'm going to start pulling it to pieces and see if there is anything else broken/bent. A lot have said about the carbon top plate so will take a look at that. Does that leave the pinion and spur exposed though? As the carbon piece seems to extend beyond the normal top plate? Or am I missing something? Yes, it leaves the pinion and spur exposed. Mine has a steel spur and pinion, which eat gravel for breakfast. It barely shows any sign of wear. (Despite the rest of the car disintegrating around it). My attempts at trying to seal the original equipment up were pretty fruitless, but I’m sure there are others who‘ve managed it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted December 31, 2022 Share Posted December 31, 2022 Its open to let the stuff out, fully sealed wouldnt make much difference as theres no issues with it being open. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChewieMcBacca Posted January 1, 2023 Share Posted January 1, 2023 @Redback @Fat Freddy First of all Happy New Year and thanks for the help so far. So looking at swapping the top plate with the CF version and changing the spur and pinion to a metal version my next question is - I can only seem to see a 49T Spur and 17T Pinion. What impact will this have on the acceleration/top speed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 Welcome to rc and fixing them . Once you fixed them a few times you understand what to watch out for . One thing I found is I started rc cars late in the year and it was cold and many parts broke on my cars but soon as it warmed up the parts was not braking as much so I think the warm plastics are more flexible an not prone to snapping .and giving your self a bit of room to bash is a good one too . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl6x6 Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 Please stop saying the chassis is made of glass. It really isn't. You do need to try not driving into things, or get the alu / carbon chassis if you feel the need to crash. My ftx gear does over 40mph and doesn't smash. You can check my YouTube channel if you like. I am primarily a modification fanatic, but going fast is also a thing I do well. The ftx range is perfectly fine in my opinion, you need to remind yourselves that 40mph into a post or a kerb will wreck a 1:1 car!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChewieMcBacca Posted January 7, 2023 Share Posted January 7, 2023 New pieces fitted and ready to go out again! Hopefully less damage this time, as fingers crossed I've put it back together properly! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.