FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread

[Stormbringer]

isnt there a port on the esc the fan can plug into ?

[Jens]

I had a closer look at your GoolRC ESC at the ebay site.

The fan is on top and I think the cable for the fan is somewhere inside and not visible.

 

There are 4 more sets of cables coming out of the ESC.

Set 1:  3 fat cable that go to the motor.

Set 2: 2 fat cables with a T-Plug (Deans) that goes to the battery and power your whole car.

Set 3: The 2 cables that go to the power switch.

Set 4: 3 wires that go to the receiver in Channel 2. (White is signal)

 

Set 4 gives power to the receiver and also gets the throttle signal from the receiver.

 

Then there is the fan on the motor which you bought separate.

The cable of that fan can be plugged into channel 3 (-ve/+ve) for power.

The fan will go on the moment you turn on the car.

 

 

[DavidBH]

25 minutes ago, Jens said:

I had a closer look at your GoolRC ESC at the ebay site.

The fan is on top and I think the cable for the fan is somewhere inside and not visible.

 

There are 4 more sets of cables coming out of the ESC.

Set 1:  3 fat cable that go to the motor.

Set 2: 2 fat cables with a T-Plug (Deans) that goes to the battery and power your whole car.

Set 3: The 2 cables that go to the power switch.

Set 4: 3 wires that go to the receiver in Channel 2. (White is signal)

 

Set 4 gives power to the receiver and also gets the throttle signal from the receiver.

 

Then there is the fan on the motor which you bought separate.

The cable of that fan can be plugged into channel 3 (-ve/+ve) for power.

The fan will go on the moment you turn on the car.

 

 

Oh no your right, I forgot the present ESC would be getting removed Dooohh. Yes that makes sense and I see now there is a we small power cable from the fan onto a connector to the side of the heatsink, school boy newby error! Yep once I get the other fan it can go into channel 3 or even the one on the receiver that says BATT possibly. Will get the multimeter out just to check before I connect everything. 

 

Another question, any advice on meshing the gears properly? Piece of paper between the gears and it should punch out holes or is there another method? Will start the build tomorrow night with a few brewdog beers in hand! Really getting into all this now dont think my son is getting this excited!

[Redback]

12 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

Really getting into all this now dont think my son is getting this excited!

Haha, its always the way we have fun with the tinkering they have fun giving us things to fix, i cant wait for the next adventure hehe! enjoy your beers

12 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

Another question, any advice on meshing the gears properly? Piece of paper between the gears and it should punch out holes or is there another method?

Yep once set just check theres a teeeny tiny bit of gap between the teeth by turning the spur gear, you should be able to feel the very very small amount of play as the teeth start to mesh, if it doesnt do this with a finger tip, it might be a hair to tight. Either way your going to be ok with the paper gap it shouldnt rip or punch holes so to speak but it should pass through without tearing or jamming. As plastic spurs teeth can flex a little they wear a bit different to metal on metal, its all about the "feel".

Edited January 28, 2021 by Redback

[TRX]

Err help. I am in the middle of upgrading my carnage to a brushless setup.  The motor has 3 power leads, orange, yellow and blue, but the ESC is not colour coded.  How do I work out which way to connect the bullet connectors?

 

 

 

[Stormbringer]

just connect em up and if motor runs wrong direction swap 2 of the leads around

[Jens]

12 minutes ago, TRX said:

Err help. I am in the middle of upgrading my carnage to a brushless setup.  The motor has 3 power leads, orange, yellow and blue, but the ESC is not colour coded.  How do I work out which way to connect the bullet connectors?

 

That would be very difficult to answer from far.

1. Check the manual

2. Maybe there are color right near the ESC

3. some specs written on the cables them self that match. 

 

[TRX]

1 minute ago, Jens said:

That would be very difficult to answer from far.

1. Check the manual

2. Maybe there are color right near the ESC

3. some specs written on the cables them self that match. 

 

 

[TRX]

9 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

just connect em up and if motor runs wrong direction swap 2 of the leads around

Ok, sounds like a tried and tested method.  Thanks

[Jens]

Not easy.

There is nothing in the manual?

[TRX]

28 minutes ago, Jens said:

Not easy.

There is nothing in the manual?

Nah, don't be silly, where's the fun in that?!

 

Thanks for all your help guys, I am just waiting for a lipo to be delivered and I will let you know

[Iain .R]

1 hour ago, Jens said:

Not easy.

There is nothing in the manual?

STAY AWAY FROM THE MANUAL/INSTRUCTIONS ..................

[Iain .R]

Does anyone know what size the  fome /inserts  are on the carnage . 

As I got some spare wheels coming ( thanks man )  I'm going to sort my carnage wheels out  as there seems to been a bit of a gap  between the tyre/rubber   and the fome / insert on 3 of the wheels (I'm sure it 3 wheels why I think there somthing wrong)   

So I'm going to de tyre the wheels and put in new fome /inserts  in my carnage wheels . 

As the tyres are fine   no point binning them  might aswell fix .    Cheers 

[Jens]

4 hours ago, Iain .R said:

Does anyone know what size the  fome /inserts  are on the carnage . 

As I got some spare wheels coming ( thanks man )  I'm going to sort my carnage wheels out  as there seems to been a bit of a gap  between the tyre/rubber   and the fome / insert on 3 of the wheels (I'm sure it 3 wheels why I think there somthing wrong)   

So I'm going to de tyre the wheels and put in new fome /inserts  in my carnage wheels . 

As the tyres are fine   no point binning them  might aswell fix .    Cheers 

The stock insert are somewhat rubbish.

Esp. if you are often going through water.

Mine turned into a undefinable mass and the wheels ended up totally unbalanced...

 

You can measure the size according to the outer diameter of the rims and the diameter of the wheels.

 

This is what I did and I am highly satisfied:

Get Armacell pipe lagging with an inner/outer diameter matching the wheels.

Armacell is closed cell foam and it will not soak with water.

And that foam is strong enough to prevent the wheels from ballooning at high speed.

( don't get the wrap around version, the glue will not hold )

[Iain .R]

Well I sorted out my new wheels and had a go at taken the old carnage tyres off the wheels using the heat   ..! NOPE !!  Not a chance.  Mmm so tomorrow raiding my  mrs nail polish  to see if that will work . .

 

After washing the wheels an  cleaning them    they are flat   might just end up buying new carnage wheels . .

[Jens]

7 hours ago, Iain .R said:

Well I sorted out my new wheels and had a go at taken the old carnage tyres off the wheels using the heat   ..! NOPE !!  Not a chance.  Mmm so tomorrow raiding my  mrs nail polish  to see if that will work . .

 

After washing the wheels an  cleaning them    they are flat   might just end up buying new carnage wheels . .

Aceton will help.

[Iain .R]

Hi all you carnage owners any of you taken the tyres off the wheels . If yes was there inserts in there  and what size did you replace them with as  I found   you need  2.2 truck inserts . £13 a pair . 

[Iain .R]

Here my temporary poss permanent new wheels thanks to Gaz  . As I'm not having much luck with the original carnage wheels or inserts.  So might just stick with these   

[Iain .R]

Hi all . Back to me wheels I contacted FTX and asked them what was best to remove the tyres off the carnage wheels and they replied   !!! YOU DONT   there not to come off !!     Oo ok   so I explained that the wheels are very soft and when they on the car when the car is on its wheels 2 of them look like there flat tyres on a real car when you have a puncher . 

 

So they asked how old the car is and where was it sold  so I told them dec 18  and of rc geeks .

So they are interested in the wheels as from the sound of it they say the inserts have disintegrated  which they not heard of before . 

 

So how long do these tyres suppost to last . As we all know real tyres anything over 12000. 

So if there a time set for RC tyres . As I mean they just test these before they sell them or the makers of the tyres must test them so they can sell them to FTX .. 

 

 

[Jens]

2 hours ago, Iain .R said:

Hi all . Back to me wheels I contacted FTX and asked them what was best to remove the tyres off the carnage wheels and they replied   !!! YOU DONT   there not to come off !!     Oo ok   so I explained that the wheels are very soft and when they on the car when the car is on its wheels 2 of them look like there flat tyres on a real car when you have a puncher . 

 

So they asked how old the car is and where was it sold  so I told them dec 18  and of rc geeks .

So they are interested in the wheels as from the sound of it they say the inserts have disintegrated  which they not heard of before . 

 

So how long do these tyres suppost to last . As we all know real tyres anything over 12000. 

So if there a time set for RC tyres . As I mean they just test these before they sell them or the makers of the tyres must test them so they can sell them to FTX .. 

 

 

Of course they come off!

And they don't last long.

 

1. Stock Bugsta wheels: 2 months bashing, few puddles included, inserts disintegrated, wheels unbalanced.

2. Replaced with Carnage wheels: 2 months bashing, many puddles included, inserts disintegrated, wheels unbalanced, some rubber came off the wheels, looked inside, undefinable mass on one side.

3. Rustler wheels: Lasted 4 months, then same as above.

 

I ignored the advice that came in the Rustler manual:

Punch 2 holes on opposite side in each wheel.

After each run, spin the wheels to get all the water out.

( Manual didn't say that you need to wash yourself and your clothes after )

 

But now I don't care, since all cars have new wheels, my special inserts and they are completely sealed.

 

[DavidBH]

ok new build with the goolrc finally completed, delayed due to my son refusing to come off fortnite so a 2 week ban. Anyway car is up and running think I have meshed the gears etc. all ok. Seems fine but noticed it almost feels and seems faster and quicker reving (when up in the air) in reverse.

 

Just want to check, I have read you simply swap 2 wires and reverse the transmitter/ receiver so it runs the other way around. Why would it be faster in reverse? Also do you think its definitely ok to swap the wires? its sensorless as no port. What do the 3 wires do in the motor I presume if I can swap them around like that, even though colour cordinated that it wont fry it.

 

Thanks as always for any help

 

[Redback]

58 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

ok new build with the goolrc finally completed, delayed due to my son refusing to come off fortnite so a 2 week ban. Anyway car is up and running think I have meshed the gears etc. all ok. Seems fine but noticed it almost feels and seems faster and quicker reving (when up in the air) in reverse.

 

Just want to check, I have read you simply swap 2 wires and reverse the transmitter/ receiver so it runs the other way around. Why would it be faster in reverse? Also do you think its definitely ok to swap the wires? its sensorless as no port. What do the 3 wires do in the motor I presume if I can swap them around like that, even though colour cordinated that it wont fry it.

 

Thanks as always for any help

 

Yes for brushless sensorless, you can just swap 2 of the phase wires around, you shouldnt need to reverse the transmitter, if it still drives faster backwards, you might need to set the throttle endpoints on the esc, reset it and follow the setup were you pull the throttle and push the button or whatever gool rc setup uses.

[DavidBH]

Thanks Redback for the info. Now without a manual in the box and I am in a learning phase of everything RC I have gone on the hunt for the manual. Keep coming across program cards is that a worthwhile thing to buy and do you buy anyone or is there something specific you guys would recommend. It sounds like that would allow me to program the ESC easily and maybe sort my problems out.

[DavidBH]

Just found this via google may be the instructions

[DavidBH]

swapped cables, think I reset the ESC and definitely faster forward than reverse now. Took it onto the local golf club that has closed down and noticed it still stutters so badly at the start and if pointing up a hill actually needs a brief push for it to get moving. Something not right.

 

Also only got about 10 minutes or less out of the 3800 NiMH I have, where as with the old motor would run (not flat out) for about 30 minutes. Think LiPo needed next, any recommendations?