Royal Male Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Just got a Marder and in the process of doing as much tinternet time to suss out "petrol"....steep learning curve.....and I'm a little confused by the addition of an alloy square section bar under the small engine mount....see below: looks home made as you can see file marks. cheers in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarfy Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 not sure what that is for?? you got any pics of the gears & layshaft alignment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m3lyc Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 I'm guessing that the threads went in the plastic mount (common problem) and instead of simply purchasing the alloy mount, he cut off the damaged section of plastic and then mounted a piece of alloy he had lying around to it in place of the damaged part. Should be fine if he's done it properly, just looks like he's tried to save a bit of money to me. Lee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royal Male Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 not sure what that is for?? you got any pics of the gears & layshaft alignment? makes sense to check that out, will take a shot or two tomorrow...thanks for quick reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royal Male Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 I'm guessing that the threads went in the plastic mount (common problem) and instead of simply purchasing the alloy mount, he cut off the damaged section of plastic and then mounted a piece of alloy he had lying around to it in place of the damaged part. Should be fine if he's done it properly, just looks like he's tried to save a bit of money to me. Lee. Cheers Lee, that sounds like it could be the reason for it.....I have read the plastic mounts can be a problem......I think I will bite the bullet and take the engine out for the first time....like I said this petrol lark is all new to me ; ) thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenguard Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 You got a pic of large engine mount? As it looks like someone fitted a clone mount witch some are higher than fg mounts So would need a raiser on the small mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marder 78 Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 (edited) hes put an old plastic one with a piece of metal,a bodge job but it seems it will work,if it goes i got a few plastics,you can have one but that seems ok,i broke 3 plastic mounts before i put an alloy one on.,the only strange thing is the plastic bit on the small mount seems to be the right size,so he has risen it. count the teeth on the gears then you will know if he has changed just the large mount or the gear carrier too. the large plastic is better. also check that the large engine mount has been moved after time as you can see where the old large mount was on the chassiss, the hole where the origonal mount was secured anyway youve got nothing to worry about with the marder,they are real easy to work on and the carbs are quite east to tune. in 6 months you will be taking the marder apart and putting ity back together with your eyes closed! i see you have a few nitros, i also do but never use them because imo the petrol cars are easier to maintain/run.i cant tune them to save my life lol.( i have a hyper 7 and hyper st im goin top sell) also enjoy the 45minutes run time!what mods has the marder got? maybe you could start a thread on it but there are a few lads on here with marders,they know what they talking about ,its a great buggy for beginners or the veterans lol. Edited February 15, 2012 by marder 78 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarfy Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 +1 Marder78 - the large engine mount is not the standard FG mount for 2wd's. It is either a 4wd mount (looks about right height for 1) or a clone mount. You can tell if its a 4wd mount as there will be a recessed top for fixing the bar type brace to the diff and not a flat top for fixing the crappy ally brace like on the 2wd! The small mount is definitely correct and has not been cut down (doesnt have any meat on it for cutting down anyway!) so has been packed up to compensate for the extra height of the large mount. If all the gears are meshing correctly I wouldnt worry about it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royal Male Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 cheers for taking the time to comment......its much appreciated. I will take marder78's advice and start a 'my 2nd hand Marder' thread and post up some pics as it is now and hopefully post as I wade through all the issues......getting loads of help on the way lol in the mean time here are a couple of shots of the large engine brace and pinion/spur mesh (which looks good as does the layshaft gear mesh). If the engine did move I guess my plastic spur would be damaged (has a steel pinion) or would it affect the layshaft gear/ and the gear on the diff both of which are steel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stebro Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 It all seems to be in align. When you look at tghe small mount, without the alloy peice the mount is too small as standard so as someone suggested maybe the original was stripped and somehow they have fastened the alloy under neath after cutting some off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royal Male Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 heres the pinion spur mesh, looks ok to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redneck29 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 your mesh looks ok to me aswell, to be totaly honist its easy to mesh the pinion/spur, the trickyer part can be geting the layshaty pinion and diff gear mesh right coz of the way the engine mounts with the bolts bellow. once you have had the engine out a few times and have got to know your car you will know by the feel when you spin the spur with your fingers with the rear wheels off the floor, but i still do the paper test to make sure. here is a base set up guide you may find usefull from a fg only fourm Front Toe out between 5mm & 8mm 17mm square drive blocks with these axles http://rc-car-online-shop.de/shop/en/pr ... 1pce-.html for maximum width 3000wt oil in the shocks Rear Toe in 3 degrees Camber 3 degrees pushed down 2000wt oil in the shocks For anti squat put 2 washers between the chassis and the forward lower ball joint. 14mm square drive blocks for maximum width. keep the chassis level by altering the ride height on the shockers with the adjuster screws or clips. The rear wishbone should be level with the bench at rest. Droop. Sit the car on a box or stand so all 4 wheels are off the bench and all the suspention is free to move. Mount the shockers on the lower mount only. Adjust the front droop screw so that the shock JUST slides on the top mounting bolt with little or no compression. The rears can be done like this but more likely will have to be done so the angle isn't so servere that the drive shafts bind up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarfy Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 (edited) You wont have a problem with meshing the spur and pinion as that is preset by the gear carrier. It would be the layshaft to diff gear that would cause the problem. The small mount hasnt been cut its a non std large mount causing the height difference. Here are the std FG mounts (brand new) and you can see how small it is and you can also see the height difference between my large mount and yours....... Edited February 16, 2012 by dwarfy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royal Male Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 (edited) yep your engine is defo sitting lower, cheers for taking the time to post that pic up......explains the issue clearly. To remove the engine is it just a case of removing the 4 screws holding the mounts to the chassis.......obviously after removing throttle link, air filter....roll cage?... Cheers ps...have just bought the FG screw kit (new), single dog bone (ebay), 2x rear drive shafts, need to hunt down a diff out drive. Edited February 16, 2012 by Royal Male Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redneck29 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 yep your engine is defo sitting lower, cheers for taking the time to post that pic up......explains the issue clearly. To remove the engine is just a case of removing the 4 screws holding the mounts to the chassis.......obviously after removing throttle link, air filter....roll cage?... Cheers no need to remove air filter, i tend to disconect fuel lines and put a washing peg on them to stop leaking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarfy Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 If you take the plastic side rail off you might be able to get the engine out the side without taking the filter off and roll cage out. If you do need to lift the roll cage just take out the screws holding the front to the chassis and it should lift up enough to allow removal. If the layshaft & diff gears are meshing ok and the engine is not moving around dont worry about the block under the small mount. If it aint broke dont fix it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royal Male Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 I will check the layshaft and diff gears and if it looks ok may leave well enough alone......I know it was raced at Nene Valley so I presume thats why its had quite a few alterations.........by its racer owner. Need to get a kill switch.....and fit it, that should be interesting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitro-basher Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 sorry to be off topic, both pictures of diffrent engines show the spur gear with a bolt holding it on, but both mine and my friends one have the c clip. weve got a thin spacer to prevent it wearing though the plastic, has the shaft been drilled and tapped? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarfy Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Mine doesnt have a bolt its held on with grub screws like the layshaft gear. I was missing an e-clip for the end of the shaft but that is now fitted just in case it comes loose! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royal Male Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 If you take the plastic side rail off you might be able to get the engine out the side without taking the filter off and roll cage out. If you do need to lift the roll cage just take out the screws holding the front to the chassis and it should lift up enough to allow removal. If the layshaft & diff gears are meshing ok and the engine is not moving around dont worry about the block under the small mount. If it aint broke dont fix it layshaft and diff gears look to be getting on well.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarfy Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Looks good to me bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royal Male Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 I was looking at a friends Marder and he's diff gear protrudes through the chassis with a plastic guard under the chassis protecting it...is that standard? If so my engine is defo high as the diff gear doesn't go near the chassis...from memory probably 5-8mm clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitro-basher Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 yer should mate, i run with a diff protector, dont see how yours is running higher. grab a picture of the diff carrier and were the diff sits. maybe your using monster truck diff carriers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richie-rich Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 probably got diff raisers.. mainly used for adjustable diffs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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