nitro-basher

So I've been out the rc community for a good 5 years.. Last car was a fg marder so I have limited knowledge of running lipo and brushless motors. I'm looking to set up the car just to drive around the street so I want a puncher motor that has moderate high speed (I know a lot of it is gearing but want a tourqy motor) as I won't be able to get top speed I should imagine as for batteries I'm then not sure what c/s lipo to go with I guess that depending on the motor? I know its a vague question but I'm not sure what combo works on this chassis on the street I'm also not 100% what upgrades the car has and if I need anything else other than the running gear... Tia Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk

well if 2s will be fast enough, i just want it to go so fast, things rip off! and it starts to distort time na i just want something fun, so whats the biggest amount of power that this car can realistically handle? the motor thats in it seems really nippy. but its just not quick enough! dont know why i feel that, maybe im used to the speed of the marder! so did the length of the motor mean more power/tourqe

...but if 3s fits

thanks, ive worked out it uses a 20/30 motor (its all alien to me, i grew up with brushed motors then had nitro and then petrol) so if it fits would a 20/40 or even a longer motor work, (20/50) and is there an advantage to having a longer motor?? lastly i presume the 3s will fit? i dont care about the battery cover. as some hook and eye wraps will work also were would i be best be on the kv of the motor, i dont want to over stress any thing and not sure if a lower kv or higher kv is suitable, as lower kv would mean more torque = more stress but then higher kv would maybe mean more stress to, as increased rotational force does the 5300kv motor i linked sound about right or should i get different? i guess 3s would be best. was thinking of zippy flight packs. would give shorter runs but mean a lighter car, something like 1100mah? edit, i've had issues with hobby king in the past so id rather buy via ebay were at least i got some fall back on crappy parts or bad service

ok great, can these be set up to run brushless? like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-eZRun-Combo-A2-Brushless-18A-ESC-18T-5200KV-Motor-F-1-18-RC-Car-UK-Stock-/380581856194?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item589c7243c2

hey guys so after selling my marder nearly last year ad not having any thing rc since i was offered a hpi recon for good money and thought thatll be great for messing about with after work in the carpark but looking in to it, it has plastic gears so firstly can those be upgraded? secondly it is fast but i want it super quick just for the added fun! so can i add lipo/brushless set up ? also does the recon share any parts with any other 1/18th parts, ie suspension, wheels etc

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221088374133?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_722wt_1393 pm me for details or ebay message.

its quite certian the plug, plugs are strange, ive had plugs last a motnh if not 2, some will last only a few weeks, and run fine but just ont start or idle. always keep a few spare as you never know when the plug will break down

havent you just read the last few posts!

if you remove the servo horn then you would need to re centre it,

i know cf is strong , and i donno how hard people bash but i dont go easy, generally braking something every time i go out. now i dont mind having strength over weight , infact i cut two strips from another chassis and have them like rails down both side of the chassis, bassicly cut a strip out the middle of a chassis to leave a 2" strip with the bend the chassis has up the sides, then cut front and back bits off, i can tell you they only come in 90g more but ive jumped and gone off 10 foot drop and not bent the chassis, and trust me i fling this thing about like a 1/8 scale savage ss lol going on the weight vs strength if it was onroad you, then yes id love one for

then use that, id guess there as good as each other, just my setup/engine prefers cobra, which infact i need some and hope my model shop has some!

and besides, the cobra oil runs better then a747, and to mention putoline kart caster oil.

lipos dont have a better votltage drop off, thats one down side to lipos (depending what way you look at it), they haver full power right up till they conk out, and if your using them as a receiver battery then thats not ideal, at least with ni-mh theres a graduale slowing of it working so you know its low. but then on the other side of that if you charged the lipo every time you went out i guess you wouldn't get an empty battery,or use a voltage meter, im considering swapping to lipo but untill i find a decent s/h charger i wont bother, not just for a receiver battery

because for the weight of the pack compared to the mah you get is far less then a big pack of rechargeable, take less time to recharge as they can be fast charged safely every time, and also may have a constant voltage source. now if you dont mind having the added weight to save your self money then go for it

yer tried the stock grease, the red one. and still freewhelling. going to try 10k first and see what happens

ive never really suffered grip roll. mainly becasue i had a welded diff, but thats in the bin now lol. so is 10k good to start with?

to late ordered 10k. if they do cause the rolling becasue theres to much grip i can always reduce the height of the v by cutting it, once the stuff turns up im going to set up as above, then go from there,

thanks for that info, will have to write this down and chuck in my tool/parts box for when i put this lot back to gether, so going to go for 10k. how many diffs would 2 ounces do? got 3 diffs to do, 2 on a 4wd and then 1 on a 2wd. yer have standard marder size wheels, infact there smartec wheels and carson tyres but i like the fact these tyres have the v on both sides rather then one like the fg tyres. also have the longer front shafts and squares but not on there at the moment as not using the disc brakes, need to order some pads, or just go hydro.

what does " The kill switch not including BEC Function(Battery Eliminator Circultry) " mean?

i have a compition one sitting here, its slightly longer so it can be shimmed, and ment to be hard enough it wouldnt bend even under extreme load. so as you, i wouldnt mind if its worth the bother. im happy with what i have which is why i havent swapped it.

yer, it didnt handle badly. just need a little more traction out of corners. and round corners. but the biggest problem i had was very worn tyres, which have now been swapped for new ones. now ended up finding some this interesting. on mmrlarge scale, the description of diff oil says this "3K Best for everyday driving and offers a little better overall traction over the stock fluid. It

Id guess a little camer in and toe in would help. Ive never been fussed with setup but as weve constructed a track i do want to get thw best from the car. I know i need harder springs. But might cut a spring in half and uae it like a helpwr spring. My mate has it like that on hea 4x4 to good effect

Yer would want to adviod that but. Then a little under steer is ok as i can handle that. Had a welded siff set up unrill the weld gave way and atripped the output shaft. With that i got loads of over steer but wasnt bad to drive. A handle but fun. But does get annoying having to correct over steer and comming off the throttle. Also hving very worn tyres hasnt helped but have upgraded a good few bits. Like new tyrea diff and alloy rose joints. Also want to now get in to setting the car up with correct camber and toe in etc. As before juat had all turn buckles in aa far aa they would go! So plently to get aet up there. As weve gone from. Juat messing about to actually setting a track up. Which then revals alot of difence in thw way the car feels. And handles cpared to bashing lol

if im allowed to speak here, id say it takes a signal from the recvier, so when theres power theres going to be a signal to the servos, when you go out of range or the battery goes, i guess no power is then presented to the servo. a fail switch will send a signal to the servo when the servo dosnt, so really all you need is a fail safe, to know what part of the cuirct board then switchs over to send this signal and then you would get a kill switch. but for