mugen mark Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 bill so far, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmytheone Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 All these posh ones put mine to shame, but saying that mine cost me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazeUK Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 I wouldn't bother with a 12v hair drier. I would recommend an engine heater though - they make starting an engine much easier. If you have some diy skills and a pound-shop nearby, you can pick up the parts to make a 12v heater for around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazeUK Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 (edited) ow about this http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3f10eeb67b may not be hot enough Did anyoine figure out if that is hot enough? Also would a 60Watt Peltier plate work on it (gets to about 70c in seconds)? Added advantage you can chill a beer while your at it! Edited February 11, 2012 by CrazeUK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkfat78 Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Awesome thread! Baring in mind the last time I made anything electrical was with a buzzer and a battery when I was about 10, so how does this fuse lark work. How do you fit a fuse inline and what sort of fuse do you need? I'm wondering if the cigarette lighter job will work ok on the way to a bash? Presumably its only if you leave the engine off that you could have problems with a flat battery, but then I know next to nothing about 1.1 cars either. Tenner says I'm the first one to get electrocuted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soup Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) I made an engine heater for free.:- Already had the flask. Son works in a garage so "found" the bulb. Dremeled the bottom off a flask of then put slots inb the top section held the wires on by bolt washers and nuts as I could invisage having to change the bulb and didn't want to unsolder or remove silicone . Having said it was free did cost me about four dremel cutting discs . Not convinced with the masking tape around the bottom may well remove this (Don't want to scratch the crankcase and cut aluminium is SHARP, Ouchee). By the way Marcus I didn't electrocute myself but I did find dust flying into my face whilst I was cutting the bottom off the flask. Usually use the Dremel to shape plastics cutting aluminium was a new one on me, first time I have had to wear googles using the Dremel. I keep using the Dremel name it isn't actually a Dremel it is some cheapo knockoff version. Edited February 24, 2012 by soup 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkfat78 Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 I've got some goggles that I use with my Dremel Soup, so that's one thing sorted The part I'm stuck on is which bulb to use and which bulb holder? Could someone post up a link please? And how are you supposed to wire them for 'main beam'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anton Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 The part I'm stuck on is which bulb to use and which bulb holder? Could someone post up a link please? And how are you supposed to wire them for 'main beam'? You want to use any half decent H4 55/60W car headlight bulb. Something like this: http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/H4-Ring-Vision-24-55-60W-Long-Life-Halogen-Bulb.html These have two filaments (one for dip, one for main beam). They have three terminals on the back of the bulb - a positive for each of the filaments and a common negative. To wire them so that both come on at the same time (so that you get most light & most heat generated, wire both of the positives together and the negative to the negative. To make your life easier, I'd suggest you buy a connector which fits directly onto the bulb (the advantage with this is that it makes changing the bulb very quick and easy). You can get them from Halfords, or cheaper here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H4-HEADLAMP-BULB-CONNECTOR-REPAIR-PLUG-BLOCK-472-/140557899377?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b9e75671 If you look up at how I have wired it, the yellow wire is the negative and the blue and red are the two positives, joined together and connected to the positive. As for mounting the bulb - you can either cut slots for the locating tabs, glue it in with some high temp. silicone sealant, or do like I do and use some old exhause springs to hold it in place. Hope this helps!! I really should do a step by step tutorial. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkfat78 Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Well I've got the parts I need (I think) but my non electrical brain is having some trouble. I've got to join two of the wires together as suggested but where and how do I connect them to the lighter socket plug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slimeon Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Well I've got the parts I need (I think) but my non electrical brain is having some trouble. I've got to join two of the wires together as suggested but where and how do I connect them to the lighter socket plug? I soldered mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkfat78 Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I can solder them no problem, I just don't know where to solder them to! lol Does it not matter which way around you put the positive and neutral wires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonesinamillion Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I never use them..... the whole point of a brake in is to allow the piston and sleve to warm up and cool down together. Of cource they do make starting a tad bit easier, but if a nitro engine is tuned correctly then it'll start quickly anyway.... Some dont some do.... there mainly used my racers so there engine are kept hot untill the race starts. I had a Schumacher rascal for a bit over a year, tuned sweet as a nut, broke in and had a good coupe of gallon thru it, it was still as tight as a gnats chuff and had to be pre heated on all but the hottest days... All engines are different. If you can pre heat, do so, saves wear and tear on a host of parts... and the skin on your fingers too! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slimeon Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 I can solder them no problem, I just don't know where to solder them to! lol Does it not matter which way around you put the positive and neutral wires? + to centre contact - to side springs. My 12v plug had holes drilled into the contacts so I threaded the wire through then soldered them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkfat78 Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 (edited) + to centre contact - to side springs. My 12v plug had holes drilled into the contacts so I threaded the wire through then soldered them. Cheers mate. So is where I've put the crosses ok? There will only be two wires as it was suggested I solder two positive wires together to get the main beam to come on on the bulb. My electrical knowledge goes about as far as wiring a plug, so excuse my ignorance. Edited March 31, 2012 by MarcusF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slimeon Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Looks fine. Just make sure the wires don't short out on each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anton Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Ok. to start with the bulb doesn't care which way around you connect it so long as each element is connected to a positive and negative connection. The twin element car bulbs have got a common earth (negative) connection, so the job of joining them together is already done for you. On my bulb connector, the common negative was the yellow wire. This should be connected to one of the battery terminals. So that you can choose which element to switch on, the bulb has two positive connections (one for each element). As we want both elements to come on (creates more light and more heat), you need to have both the positives connected to the positive. On my connector this was the blue and red wires. You need to connect these together and then to the other battery terminal. As you can see on my one, I used a length of two-core mains cable to go between the bulb connector and the battery. I used large croc-clips on the end of mine rather than a cigarette plug as I prefer to connect directly to the battery terminal and you might end up blowing the fuse in your car if you run the heater off it. The heater will draw around 5 amps, so you might want to check what your cigarette lighter plug is rated for. As mentioned in an earlier post, putting an in-line fuse in one of the wires would be a sensible thing to do as these things could easily short circuit and cause a fire if you're not careful in construction and use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soup Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Bump for Munky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monsterman26 Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 I built my own engine warmer out of a can of peas and a 55w headlight bulb. Takes about 10 mins to get my engine up to 185f. clever dick. thats an awesome idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc rookie Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Im doing this and its gunna cost mee nuthing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukglyn Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 I am going to spend an hour or so hacking my old stell flask & various bit from the garge to make myself one of these. Great idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukglyn Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 Here is mine Ive thrown together today, looks like ill have to go out & test it tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1981robbo Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 If you don't over prime the engine it should start after 3 pulls anyway. I've never needed a heater through break in nor general usage. Just prime it correct. 1st flip gets the fuel to the carb, another quarter of a flip pushes it through. Make sure U manually open the carb, then flick the power on once its primed. U shouldn't need a heater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 i think it makes it so much easier using a heater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rnibleck Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 i use a blow torch.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbs10 Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 thats 1 way of melting your fuel lines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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