1981robbo

No? Just stating a fact. You missed out the word 'need' in your post. You don't NEED to use that tool. You implied that his method was completely wrong, which it is NOT. And seriously that terminology sounds REALLY homosexual.

Correct. They actually rattle themselves loose. Rebuild the engine and retorque backplate and head also the pinchbolts tend to slacken off themselves

Yes you can? A lock tool and your wheel nut wrench is all you need. To say 'you don't just use' is quite inaccurate

Too rich

Keep it to clean your engine block out when you strip and rebuild

How?

Depends on which way it split really. If it split horizontally, what's to say you didnts crack it yourself, if it split vertically(which seems insane) then you should get a refund.

That exhaust is fine,all you need to do is use a fuel line with a 6mm o/d . The TT fuel line isn't the best

The tank has a filter in it an extra filter will create potential tuning issues, when the fuel line starts to stiffen up with age . Swap out the fuel line for some better quality line.

On the pro18 it is actually quite difficult to prime, all the small block TT engines seem to be. Make sure you manually open the carb with the power off, prime then once it reaches the carb, flick the lid of the tank twice, then again half a flick. I found this the best method for this engine. By flicking I mean hold/pinch the exhaust breather and open and release the flap on the tank making a kind of flick. This action makes the fuel in effect, pump into the carb. Its deceptive on the .18 as you need more 'flick' than you think you might. 2 1/2 is good for this engine

Anyone interested in some hop Ups? Titanium rear chassis brace, ERGAL parts etc?? Got one on the block now!

The knackered clutch bearing would have died due to inaccurate shimming. I've got an old 21R from when Schumacher put them in the xtr 20 years old and still as strong as ever.

You know when there is no resistance at the top of the stroke

Front and rear shock towers, rear box front plate, front top plate, upper arm mounts. Titanium rear chassis brace, aluminium front chassis brace

Wheelspin models or eBay is your best bet. As for ERGAL upgrades im selling some if you are interested. Also a two speed chassis with mounted 2 speed gearbox.

If you cut a hole in the centre of the fan the same shape as say, a 13t clutch bell, you could attach it that way and you'd still have use of the clutch. I.e it wouldn't spin at idle, but when the throttle is applied it would spin up

I do however have a centre diff if yours hasn't got one..(if the spur is blue) only seen break in.

Yeah that engine mount you'd have to remove the pullstart, and the you'll prob wait months for the rear shock tower, and the upper arm mounts are like gold dust..as is the top plate(in red). As for the clutchbell it won't go on a 1 speed, and the tank isn't a TT tank. :-)

You need to alter the position of the shock where it attaches to the shock tower and/or move the bottom of the shock to the inner most hole on the bottom arms.

Bump

Guess not bump. some really hard to get parts on here !

check the grub screws that hold the centre drive shafts in the collars. If the car is a RG then you'll not have a centre diff, it'll be a locked spool so the problem isn't centre related. Check the collars or outdrives on the front diff isn't just spinning. Another problem on these cars is the T price on the end of the front centre shaft wears very fast if there is too much play in the front centre shaft. You'd need to shim the front centre shaft with a little piece of fuel tube to stop the play / slap

80 posted! Any TT lovers out there?