anton

Good grief, just read this - try reading the instructions for the quick change engine mount. The blocks the engine mounts on need to be facing a certain way depending on the type of clutch you're using. You're not using a standard losi clutch, so you need to turn the engine mounts around. The quick change setup is so much better than the standard one, you'd be a muppet to get rid of it. Here you go: http://www.losi.com/Products/Support.aspx?ProdId=LOSA9155

Get yourself a tub of liquid mask and you can have some proper fun experimenting ;-)

Nice one on the shell AJ - how did you do the window frames, they look very neat?

I'm a little sad to announce that I'm going to be winding down my painting, due to starting a new job, and not having the time to devote to painting shells. I will still be painting, but it will have to be on the basis that I will only take on the work if have the time and energy to do it and that it gets done when it gets done. While I'm at it, I'd also like to say thank you to everyone who has 'liked' my facebook page and sent positive feedback, and especially big thanks to everyone who took the leap of faith and trusted me to paint their shells. It might sound lame, but I get a massive kick out of seeing shells I've painted hammering it around the track. I might not have made you faster, but hopefully look good while doing it. Cheers, Ant.

Is that bottle single skinned? I would suggest you use a flask for the heater body as being double skinned, the outside remains quite cool and less likely to burn your fingers when removing it.

I wire my heater so that both filaments come on. Two filaments = more heat, simples.

A few more from me ... A micro to match the daddy ... A massive SC shell, painted to match the Losi advert shells ... Another micro to match its daddy ... A truggy shell painted in the theme of the nissan GT car ... And a trio of matching shells, painted in the style of the awesome MAX RC bodies (http://www.facebook.com/maxairbrush)

Nice one Harry - that's the engine & pipe combo I want for mine. I bet it goes like stink!

Nice one Chris - I run the EU version of the 8ight. There are a couple of fairly inexpensive upgrades you might want to consider to make it more bullet proof. Also, it's worth keeping an eye out for the EU upgrades (metal front spindles & carriers, shock towers) which can make quite a difference to it's performance on the track.

You don't 'have to' but you should!

It's significant as the piston & liner have a pinch fit - hence, you don't to let a hot engine cool down with the piston at TDC - ideally it should be left BDC as the engine cools. New engines sometimes get stuck at TDC due to being very tight (tightest at TDC) when you first get them. Sorry if this is teaching you to suck eggs.

I really wouldn't worry about the effect a couple of leds are going to have. I just looked up a 12v 5mm led and it's rated at 120mW i.e. 0.12 watts i.e. bugger all !!

This forum really needs to pin a few more things!! Take a read of this thread with instructions on how to make your own.... And hairdryer vs. engine heater is not even a contest. A twin element headlamp bulb will pump out much more heat than a 12v travel hairdryer.

Instead of debating the rights and wrongs of the .28 engines, the answer to your question whether you bought the wrong one is, unfortunately yes. BRCA regulations for racing require a maximum engine size of 3.5 cubic centimetres (.21). http://www.brca-rallycross.co.uk/archives/cat_regulations.html#a000033 All is not lost though - you can pick up a decent .21 engine for as little as

Is this a brand new engine you're trying to break in?