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What did you do to your model today?


stretch

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Spent a few hours this evening fixing as many photo links as I could in the "Show us your Tamiya" thread. A few didn't survive Photobucket's treachery, but most are back to normal. :D

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, stonedef said:

Forgot to post this the other day but I made a start on my power supply. Just got to 'float' the dc on the 2nd one and then sort out a case to put it in

 

20180210_133451_zpszfwan10r.jpg

 

 

 

 

I'd prob go for this next time. Keep it simple:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110V-220V-to-DC5V-12V-24V-48V-Switch-Power-Supply-Driver-Adapter-LED-Strip-Light/142462540092?hash=item212b6dd93c:m:mkXyMOfLDgX-IuNj3le0sCw

24v 1000w 40A version.

s-l1600.jpg

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I did look at them but being a mechanic I like to tinker and build stuff, so thought it would be fun to convert two server psu's. Also going the server psu route I will have 12v as well on the same set up

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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Spent a lot of time driving around all the Maplins in Glasgow trying to get spare super-bright LEDs, but eventually did this:

 

 

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Received and built the Pro-line Ridgeline cage for the SCX10.

Rather like it, thought I'd dislike it without a windscreen, but actually I like the more open 'raw' look.

Unsure if I now like these tyres with this though, so might have to try and find something a bit smaller, but don't really want to compromise the awesome performance just for looks.

We'll see how that goes.

 

25412065587_966f876904_b.jpg

 

25412065517_3c0efec776_b.jpg

 

25412065447_8ac7f93c44_b.jpg

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58 minutes ago, Oh How Original said:

Received and built the Pro-line Ridgeline cage for the SCX10.

Rather like it, thought I'd dislike it without a windscreen, but actually I like the more open 'raw' look.

Unsure if I now like these tyres with this though, so might have to try and find something a bit smaller, but don't really want to compromise the awesome performance just for looks.

We'll see how that goes.

 

25412065587_966f876904_b.jpg

 

25412065517_3c0efec776_b.jpg

 

25412065447_8ac7f93c44_b.jpg

I'd keep the tyres as is, they suit the look of the rig not too big at all IMO 

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1 minute ago, OllieNZ said:

I'd keep the tyres as is, they suit the look of the rig not too big at all IMO 

 

Thanks for the feedback :) I'm still unsure.

I need to get the shell sat in it's final position, then put the bumper on and get the inner arches built, it might look a bit fuller then, I think it's because it's still bare I feel they look a touch big.

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2 minutes ago, Oh How Original said:

 

Thanks for the feedback :) I'm still unsure.

I need to get the shell sat in it's final position, then put the bumper on and get the inner arches built, it might look a bit fuller then, I think it's because it's still bare I feel they look a touch big.

By the time a full sized rig gets to that level of cage work it's gonna have big tyres. Check out some of the pic's here http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224953 

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3 minutes ago, yoodoo said:

That looks as real as the real thing. How did you do it?

J:o

 

Thanks mate :) just Tamiya paint and patience lol.

Takes quite a lot longer than I expected I'll be honest!

It's quite handy I am used to layering for certain effects from my drawing background.

A similar method is applied here.

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8 minutes ago, yoodoo said:

Can you link me to the paint and tell me how you do it in stages as I want to do my Blazer shell like that. Excellent job there !:good:

 

J

 

Just Tamiya acrylics on Modelsport mate, there is about 100 or so listed last time I checked, separate listings so can't really link 'em lol.

There are people far better than me lol, I have just applied some drawing methods to it.

Basically, I dab on a dark 'base' layer with a brush, then rub it as close to the size and shape I am wanting, then go with a bright yellow with quite a dry brush, and just dab it around the shape, to create the edging the way you see it, kinda broken up etc...

Then just go darker and darker with layers, dabbing as you go along, wait to dry between layers and never put too much on, if you do, just dab with some kitchen roll/loo roll.

If it gets a bit dark, just dab with a bit of a lighter colour.

I am currently using XF-3, X-6, X-1, X-15, X-34 and XF-84.

That's pretty much it in honesty, I'm actually not even looking at any reference photos, it's come out much better than I expected I could do lol.

I do wish Modelsport was a bit more informative with there paints.

Those item numbers from Tamiya are all for 'matt' colours, but MS sent some in metallic.

I need to order some more matt ones, although I will be matt clear coating it all again afterwards.

Oh and one small tip, if a layer dries, just use a clean wet brush and dab, it's working for me anyway to keep things moist when needed.

Edited by Oh How Original
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Took the Yeti and Tamiya GF-01 out for a blast in the woods for the first RC trip of the year with my son. Today I learnt that a wet and muddy Yeti isn't the funnest thing to carry and also a 4mm grub screw (from the steering knuckle) is almost impossible to find.

 

GF01 and Yeti.jpg

Yeti.jpg

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Some more rusting, then decided to go for the 'odd' panel.

In homage to my original Jeep, it's the same blue, although one is sprayed on the inside, one on the out, so it looks ever so slightly off colour, maybe in natural light will be a closer match though.

If this turns out looking good, I'm taking credit, if it turns out rubbish then it was Grahams idea! ( @ibo ) :lol: 

 

Axial SCX10 G6

 

Axial SCX10 G6

 

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On 15/02/2018 at 13:45, johninderby said:

RC'd the Tamiya 1/32 Mini 4WD Mammoth.  B)

 

Used the chassis from the mini Lunchbox conversion and fitted the Mammoth body and mounted the Mammoth tyres on the MT wheels. Runs OK but  needs a bit more clearance for the front tyres.

 

    John

 

Mamouth-1.jpg

 

 

 

 

Are the wheels removable on this? and could the tyres be removed or peeled back, masked so the wheels could be painted?

 

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Didn’t try to remove the inner wheels. The screw in the wheel centre just lets you remove the outer face of the wheels then the stock tyres can be removed.  The Tamiya tyres were a tight push fit on the MT wheels. The outer faces were fastened back on using longer screws. They don’t actually touch the inner wheels now.

 

 

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