OllieNZ

The stock ESC was pretty snatchy IIRC. In regards to speed, mine is my first and only crawler so I don't really have a frame of reference but compared to my 1/8th stuff it's an absolute slug ?. I think with a bit more controllability from a better ESC the top end is less of an issue. It's final drive gear ratio is already quite a bit lower (slower) than most axial stuff so I'm not sure how slow you expect it to be?

I'm happy with the 1080 in mine, the programability is worth the extra IMO. I'd leave the motor, the gearing is ridiculously low as it is, a high turn motor won't be of any benefit. The only major weak spot is the stock plastic diff locks.

Glad you're happy with it

Yes it is. I've found no work around so far other than getting smaller batteries or a single 4s pack.

The G92 is the PS4 version.

I've got a G920 + shifter. It's a seriously nice bit of kit.

Yup and it's 1,000,000x better with a wheel and pedals

Welcome to the club

That shell looks familiar.....

Both seem good, a bit more aftermarket for the H7 due to the age. Same metal but the diff ring and pinions are beefier and the axles are normally thicker. MTs also usually use a slipper clutch rather than a center diff.

The H7 is a good buggy but the VS is better speccd. Adding a cheap set of big bore shocks to replace the older small bores on the H7 so it would match the VS will cost over £50, iirc the Hobao ones are £50-£60 a pair. The VSe is also set up to be electric from the factory, so no need to mess with battery trays, servo mounts, motor mounts. If you could get an H7 that's been e converted and is RTR for around the £150 mark then I'd say that's probably a good deal but nearly £100 for a used roller? I'd pay the extra for the VSe roller every time.

As Capri mentioned it's to do with the mass of the wheels, that MT tyre my pic nearly weighs the same as all 4 buggy tyres put together. Imo if a buggy can hack the MT tyres then it's the VS, that thing is more heavily built than my HPI Trophy Truggy that donated the wheel. There's a couple of weak spots that I think would be exposed with heavy bashing and some stuff would likely wear out quicker but overall I think with a couple of upgrades it has the potential to still be reliable.

Also threw one of the MT wheels on the VSe..... Gearing would definitely have to be addressed They clear all the arms nicely with no rubbing It clears the shell on full lock at ride height but hits when compressed, I also doubt it would clear the shell on the left rear due to the exhaust bulge (the nitro and electric share the same shell)

Not 100% sure if there's anyone selling the Tekno in the UK or not, as the ones that I've seen have been purchased via amain and work out to around £500 they only come as a chassis kit and you need to add wheels/tyres/body/motor/pinion/esc/servo/Rx/Tx probably looking at £800+ by the time it's RTR. Spares for the Hobao stuff are readily available from from the usual suspects. I've had more issues with getting spares for my HPI truggy flux than my VSe. You need an 1/8 motor (4068/4074) and esc (120a min) especially for a truggy due to the weight, the step up from 1/10 to 1/8 is not just physical size but the sheer amount of beef and that goes into an 1/8 vehicle which pumps up the weight massively. You'd cook a 1/10 motor in short order unless it's a sub 3000kv 3674 in one of the lighter buggies (which the VSe is not)

The SS/SSe is a buggy and spec wise is a step down from the VS/VSe. The ST is the older truggy design and is nitro only, the SST/SSTe is a newer platform and available in both nitro and electric. The TT is a 1/10 truggy. I'd say the SST is probably more durable than the Proline MT as it's a 1/10 and doesn't seem to hold up well to being used with 1/8 scale power systems. I'm assuming you mean the Tekno 410 MT? If so then that's a superior vehicle to the SST as it's a true 1/8 MT and built like a brick outhouse by one of the top brands in the industry bit if the Hobao MT is too expensive then the 410 will make your eyes water at the cost.

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobao-hyper-sste-truggy-1-8th-scale-electric-rolling-chassis/rc-car-products/379171 https://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/product/HBMTE-C150BU/hobao-hyper-mt-sport-plus-elec-rtr-w-hw150a-esc-18kg-servo-blue Other retailers may also offer them.

An 1/8th buggy has much better clearance than the 1/10 stuff, I find mine does well even in longish grass. Have you checked out the Hobao SSTe truggy and MTe monster truck? I've got a set of MT tyres in the shed I can throw on mine to see how they fit/look if that's any help?

Define capable off roader? It will never have the wheel travel of a truggy due to the short suspension arms but with bigger tyres you'll gain more ground clearance. Getting the correct wheel offset will be critical to make sure you don't get tyre rub. The width and wheel base means you could use a 1/10sct shell but I suppose a truggy/MT shell is probably more what you're after, those I've not got a clue about as 1/8th truggies and MTs have a longer wheelbase.

These should be the correct o-ring for the spur to drive cup part: https://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/product/H89002-1/hobao-hyper-9-diff-o-rings You also need a paper gasket to seal the spur to the diff case: https://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/product/H89004/hobao-hyper-9-differential-case Unfortunately to get the gasket you've got to buy the diff case, you could always buy a sheet of 0.5mm gasket paper and cut your own. If you were feeling particularly keen you could draw it up on the computer then print it onto the gasket paper to give you an accurate outline to cut on.

The big orange one goes between the diff case and spur but if you've already got a paper gasket in there it should be ok. The little one is critical, measure the diameter of the drive cup shaft and the diameter of the o ring hole, you should be able to use the 2 dimensions to work out what size you need. Which type of car is the spur from? Is the rest of the diff stock? Depending how thick of oil you put in it, it may be empty. I've found the stock hobao tyres to be pretty rubbish in regards to ballooning, try some belted tyres GRP make ones rated for over 100mph.

Have you got all the gaskets/o-rings fitted correctly? Have you tried new seals? Can you do a picture with all the parts laid out so we can make sure you're not missing anything?

That's on my to do list for my trophy truggy flux. There's also not much room under the VSe shell for one either. I wonder if the H7 ones would fit?

I think if you'd had an ally chassis brace it may have survived but I'm not sure if there's one available?

There was a guy in the states making metal spurs, don't know if he's still doing them. How are you setting the mesh? I've put goodness knows how many packs through mine and the spur is still good. Are you still using the stock brass pinion? Unfortunately the only CVDs I'm aware of are the ones from hobby king. It'd be worth picking up a set of the hardened drive cups at the same time.