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THE E-Firestorm Thread


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Not really. The wheel hexes on the FS have an additional ridge in front of the hex that will not allow these wheels to sit flush and will mean you'll strip the hub out of the wheel really fast. This could be cured simply by replacing with any standard 12mm hex. There's still a chance these won't fit though as the offset looks a lot less than the standard 2.2 stadium truck wheels and this would cause rubbing on steering parts(I can't confirm this, it just looks that way). Lastly, while they are a 2.2 wheel, they are a good bit more narrow and so any stadium truck tires will have a balloon look when mounted. If you were going to run the WR8 tires, they are a lot smaller in diameter(roughly 15mm) so you loose speed and clearance. So while they could be made to work, if you want a something that bolts right up, I'd say no unfortunately.

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Yep as stretch mentioned, lots of good info on that first page. Also there are Hpi V Groove tires. Traxxas anacondas too but you'll need a 2.8 rim from traxxas or proline. There's likely others too but just takes a bit of searching around. I'd likely use the speed hawgs myself. But that's just cause I like the look of them. Never run any of them.

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I've been playing around with mine today... Nuts on 3S. All about the throttle control and it's nice having the power in reserve, although I can see how it would all go horribly wrong.

 

Painted up a new bodyshell. Proline Baja for 1/10 Rock Crawler. Don't buy one as it doesn't fit.. but I'll use it for bashing. Looks nice with the Tamiya Pink/Gold backed in Black. I'll throw a pic up once In drill the mount holes.

 

I've also been looking at some more wheels with some grass/dirt tyres on there. Does anyone run Badlands on their firestorm? If so, how much do they effect the drive, with their extra size? I think I can get away without changing the gearing but I have another pinion to try if not. This hobby can so easily get expensive  :whistling:

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Never run them on a firestorm, but have run them on other rc's and they are a great offroad tire.

They are just over an inch larger in diameter then the ground assaults. Gearing down would be highly recommended and pretty much guaranteed to be necessary to avoid over heating. Because they are so much taller you can gear down and still keep the same speeds you have now. Monitoring temps will be essential.

If you can locate them(they're discontinued), the proline dirt paws are deadly for grass and dirt(not hard packed dirt). I used to run them and they are like sand paddles for the grass!

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I've been playing around with mine today... Nuts on 3S. All about the throttle control and it's nice having the power in reserve, although I can see how it would all go horribly wrong.

 

Painted up a new bodyshell. Proline Baja for 1/10 Rock Crawler. Don't buy one as it doesn't fit.. but I'll use it for bashing. Looks nice with the Tamiya Pink/Gold backed in Black. I'll throw a pic up once In drill the mount holes.

 

I've also been looking at some more wheels with some grass/dirt tyres on there. Does anyone run Badlands on their firestorm? If so, how much do they effect the drive, with their extra size? I think I can get away without changing the gearing but I have another pinion to try if not. This hobby can so easily get expensive  :whistling:

 

again been asked before, search is your friend http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1

 

4e941ae0-5a42-666b.jpg

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I really should remember to use that..

I had seen them fitted on this thread but didn't remember much being said about them. Seems mixed.. some say they're the best thing since Yorkshire puddings and others say that it handles like a floating turd. I'll be honest, the looks were what appealed to me with the grip an added bonus but if it's going to handle like a pig I'll not bother. Going hunting for some Dirt Paws but if there's no luck, I'll just go with a set of Vee 2\4 and a set of Dirt Hawgs.

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Any reason why the ESC would keep forgetting itself? I had to go through the neutral/forward/reverse setup yesterday as there was nothing happening and today, after turning up at a business park.. there was nothing again. I went through the setup three times and there was no joy. Got it home and tried again and all is ok, for now...

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I've had that issue twice... Take the car out and run it till the Lipo cuts off..

Take it home rinse clean, dry. Leave it near a heater to dry.

New Lipo in and no response to forward and reverse. Only steering works.

Go through the ESC setup a number of times and then forward and reverse work.

Have no idea why.

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Yep, pretty much the same although I stopped well above the LVC. I can only assume it's related to the water but then it was only damp yesterday, at most. Saying that, it is meant to be waterproof...

 

If it happens again, I'll take it down to modelsport.

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Had my FSF out again today, lasted half a LiPo before a nose first landing ripped the hinge pin through the front arm. Need to order some TBones. Overall I am happy with it. A blast to drive and plenty quick enough.

Edited by DannyP
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Instrutions say unplug fan if its going to get wet

 

 

PS on reading this thread some one was having problem with the motor running back woulds if this happen you need to swap two of the wire over from the ecs to the motor

Edited by wave ace
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I know the fan isn't waterproof but that has nothing to do with the setting of the ESC. As it happens, it was unplugged anyway. I haven't had a need for it, especially in these temperatures.

It was working fine this evening though so I'll see how it goes. The main priority is tyres as these are turd and balloon up without much effort.

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i asked the question in general electric but forgot about this thread. whats a good 3s combo for these?

Read 1st post or search this thread its been asked many many times and recently as well.

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Well had mine out yesterday in the wet only to be stopped by a screeching noise, turns out upon inspection water had somehow got into the gearbox before, had destroyed two bearings which had caused the main shaft to the spur to be wobbly and the spur to shift slightly and be stripped!! [emoji35]

Does anyone know the dimensions of the top bearings as I don't have a manual to go on the shaft shown on either side of the gear?

303901ae036f59da04667a44338a73ab.jpgd902a74c91499a3599354bf2d5ed40f3.jpg48efa87bc567e0f3769c1eff4640d6b4.jpg

Ps my day got worse when cutting my shell and the lexan just split off a cut and this travelled for a good 5 cm [emoji22] can't really see in the pic but livid

ed2d3d22af81f5493b27e5d89560d2b5.jpg

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I know the fan isn't waterproof but that has nothing to do with the setting of the ESC. As it happens, it was unplugged anyway. I haven't had a need for it, especially in these temperatures.

It was working fine this evening though so I'll see how it goes. The main priority is tyres as these are turd and balloon up without much effort.

Well if it was plugged in and got wet it could have effected the esc in weird ways.

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Well had mine out yesterday in the wet only to be stopped by a screeching noise, turns out upon inspection water had somehow got into the gearbox before, had destroyed two bearings which had caused the main shaft to the spur to be wobbly and the spur to shift slightly and be stripped!! [emoji35]

Does anyone know the dimensions of the top bearings as I don't have a manual to go on the shaft shown on either side of the gear?

303901ae036f59da04667a44338a73ab.jpgd902a74c91499a3599354bf2d5ed40f3.jpg48efa87bc567e0f3769c1eff4640d6b4.jpg

Ps my day got worse when cutting my shell and the lexan just split off a cut and this travelled for a good 5 cm [emoji22] can't really see in the pic but livid

ed2d3d22af81f5493b27e5d89560d2b5.jpg

Those smaller bearings on the top shaft and idle gear are 5mmx10mmx4mm.

As for the body. At the end of the tear, use a very small drill bit or a body reamer to make a small hole(1mm is all that's needed). This is just to stop it from continuing to tear as the rounded area will leave no direct path to follow. I would then paint it as normal and once it's all cured, use the mesh tape and shoe glue method mentioned a page or two back and you should have no concerns with it again.

Edited by Tiernan85
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Just replying to the person asking about Badlands on the last page... their awesome for bashing around, I have a set that have outlasted the wheels their on (hex's strip eventually with a 5.5t motor and heavier tyres). But because the extra height you'll 100% need a rear bumper or wheelie bar for protection of the motor. Makes it lift the front easy.

 

I tried my E-FS on the track last summer with a few different tyres. It was pretty good on some Schumacher mini-spikes, but horrible on Badlands and Dirt Hawgs, unsurprisingly!

 

I have an 8.5t I'm gonna try on 3s lipo next time out. Was going to sell my E-FS in favour of a Team C Hyde I recently got in a job lot, but can't bring myself to do it  :yes: Not a lot of faith in the Team C truck, plastic gears and a ball diff with 3s?  :shockingscary:  :sweatdrop:

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i asked the question in general electric but forgot about this thread. whats a good 3s combo for these?

I run the 4000kv flux motor and the Hobbywing WP SC8 esc. Motors great. Esc has been giving me some issues and I've read of enough others with similar problems. It's not major but the lvc keeps cutting in way too early. I'm only getting half a pack through it and the cells are registering 3.8v when it's cutting out. I've changed the cutoff settings from the factory 3.4v to 3.0v even and it's still cutting out at around 3.7-3.8v/cell. It's easily enough rectified with an external lipo alarm or cutoff but still a bit of a pain that shouldn't be happening.

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