Rowlly21 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Does anyone else find that the Allen heads round really easy ? I have used several different Allen keys and still no joy, what kit are you using ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 Nope never had a problem but I use hex bits not Allen keys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Same here, I use cheap Turnigy hex drivers and never had an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrighty8766 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 @mydoddy69 has a nice set of arrowmax drivers in the for sale section 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowlly21 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Where do you all get torx head bolts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbashbosh Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Anyone installed lights in their shell? Looking for something to use it when losing light over winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ostewart Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 (edited) 8 hours ago, Rowlly21 said: Where do you all get torx head bolts ? None of us are using torx headed screws... Just buy a nice set of hex drivers and you won't have problems. Turnigy do a complete set for around £10. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/301345965360?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 Edited January 10, 2017 by ostewart 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowlly21 Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 4 hours ago, ostewart said: None of us are using torx headed screws... Just buy a nice set of hex drivers and you won't have problems. Turnigy do a complete set for around £10. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/301345965360?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 I'm with you now thank you, Ordered a facom set off eBay that should sort me out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shokka Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 Hey guys. Probably another Moonie question or two. First off my car is box stock, the only thing different is that it has a larger mah battery than what it comes with. The original battery is giving me all sorts of issues but I think that's because before I got it he hasn't used it for a long time so maybe that thing is long since dead. Anyway, so I've noticed if I go full throttle then apply the brake to 'handbreak' turn, when I go to apply the throttle again there is no response. I have to wait about 2/3 seconds and then it will kick in again. Any ideas? Battery wiring perhaps? It does look like it's had a new connection, but it only does this when I really try and power slide it. Am I just being to throttle heavy? I will eventually be upgrading parts here and there with all new batteries etc but for now is like to continue with the stock set up so any help would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamboV6 Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 You have it set up in reverse by the sounds of it so the esc is running in reverse when you press forward and vice versa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 Yep not battery normal operation should be brake then pause before going into reverse to save tearing up the drive train. Check motor wring/reverse function on the tx and recalibrate esc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shokka Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 Just now, stretch said: Yep not battery normal operation should be brake then pause before going into reverse to save tearing up the drive train. Check motor wring/reverse function on the tx and recalibrate esc. I'll have to do me a whole load of google-ing lol. I'm not trying to go into reverse by the by. Just throttle forward, turn and brake to slide, then onto throttle again. But there is normally a small pause between after you brake and then when you hold throttle again? Okay so it's just basically saving itself from noobs like me destroying the drive train. Cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 No Google required all in the manual. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shokka Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 having had a look through the manual (who knew it would be so useful lol) I found the radio want quite set right and the esc was set for Lipo not NiMH... I'm not going to change anything else now and I will test it tomorrow. Will having it in those settings have caused any damage do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ostewart Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 1 hour ago, Shokka said: having had a look through the manual (who knew it would be so useful lol) I found the radio want quite set right and the esc was set for Lipo not NiMH... I'm not going to change anything else now and I will test it tomorrow. Will having it in those settings have caused any damage do you think? It won't have caused damage Glad it's all set up properly now, the lipo mode was probably causing a lot of your issues. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shokka Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Well i've changed the settings to basically default. NiMH battery, reverse mode set to low power, Start set to standard and drag brake set to low also. Radio is set up correctly (well, as standard now) and it still seems to do the same thing. Perhaps its me, usually if you apply near to / full throttle from the get go, should it speed up fully or would it be hesitant (like when signal range is bad). I find when I slowly apply the throttle it is okay, but if i apply close to full / full throttle it will just judder like its thinking about it. I'll then have to release the throttle and slowly apply it again. Seems to me like loose wiring, it effects the vehicle more when its fully on the ground than when i have it on a stand. Perhaps the motor is full of ****? or like mentioned perhaps the wiring somewhere is slightly off, therefore when the the throttle is applied too quickly it just says no. LITERALLY no idea lol. also, the plugs from the motor to the ESC are a right pain in the arse to pull apart. sorry for the noob rant, its a mixture of frustration from not knowing anything and worry that I may have damaged something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Sounds like under full load the motor is not getting the current it needs; have you tried a fully charged battery (if using nimh they need a few cycles sometimes to get them to perform) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shokka Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 (edited) 14 minutes ago, sunny said: Sounds like under full load the motor is not getting the current it needs; have you tried a fully charged battery (if using nimh they need a few cycles sometimes to get them to perform) Well the batteries aren't brand new as it was all 2nd hand when i got it, and they had been left for a while. I will try tomorrow, run them down and then a full charge and see how it goes. I'm getting some lipo 2s batteries on friday (well ordering them then) so it'll be interesting to see if they make a difference. Cheers. Also Rowlly thats a pretty good shout. Eliminate the easy stuff first. I hadn;t even thought to try the tx batteries lol. I'll do that too. cheers mate. Edited January 11, 2017 by Shokka 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowlly21 Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 1 hour ago, Shokka said: Well i've changed the settings to basically default. NiMH battery, reverse mode set to low power, Start set to standard and drag brake set to low also. Radio is set up correctly (well, as standard now) and it still seems to do the same thing. Perhaps its me, usually if you apply near to / full throttle from the get go, should it speed up fully or would it be hesitant (like when signal range is bad). I find when I slowly apply the throttle it is okay, but if i apply close to full / full throttle it will just judder like its thinking about it. I'll then have to release the throttle and slowly apply it again. Seems to me like loose wiring, it effects the vehicle more when its fully on the ground than when i have it on a stand. Perhaps the motor is full of ****? or like mentioned perhaps the wiring somewhere is slightly off, therefore when the the throttle is applied too quickly it just says no. LITERALLY no idea lol. also, the plugs from the motor to the ESC are a right pain in the arse to pull apart. sorry for the noob rant, its a mixture of frustration from not knowing anything and worry that I may have dama 11 minutes ago, sunny said: Sounds like under full load the motor is not getting the current it needs; have you tried a fully charged battery (if using nimh they need a few cycles sometimes to get them to perform) something. 11 minutes ago, sunny said: Sounds like under full load the motor is not getting the current it needs; have you tried a fully charged battery (if using nimh they need a few cycles sometimes to get them to perform) What sunny said sounds about right. Also how new are the batteries in the TX as I've had issues with what I thought was the ESC and simply turned out to be the Tx batteries. Start with the basics 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shokka Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 Turns out it's the stock battery. Pretty much died a death. Even after a 6 hour charge it has barely enough power to move the vehicle for more than a minute. I tried the same battery type, but the larger mah version and it works great. Also checked the receiver wires and esc wiring etc but theyre all good. Going to be switch to 2s lipo soon anyway and hopefully that is the end of that issue lol. Cheers guys. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowlly21 Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 Lipos are the way anyway mate Glad you found the issue 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shokka Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 On 12/16/2016 at 18:29, everclear1984 said: I already run 3s so that's not an issue. The old motor was 3200kv geared as high as the motor adjustment would allow so I don't really want to go any lower. I think I'm going to take a punt on the one I posted above. Just wondering if you went for this in the end and if so how has it performed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 I didn't, I ended up being given a 2400kv motor so I thought I'd try that for the time being. It's ok, slow but torquey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shokka Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 1 hour ago, everclear1984 said: I didn't, I ended up being given a 2400kv motor so I thought I'd try that for the time being. It's ok, slow but torquey. fair enough. i may give it a go then next week and report back. trying to spread purchases out each week lol. Tomorrow, it's lipo's from a guy on here and lipo charger from robotbirds. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ostewart Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 So regarding the 17mm hex adapters and the width, tried with 4mm wide hexes, they work fine on the front, but are too narrow on the back (binds when fully tightened), ideally you want to run 4mm wide on the front, and 5mm wide on the back. What I did was use a little washer as a spacer and it's perfect. Also put the nanda blocks on the front as I didn't like having slightly wider tyres on the front, and spoked wheels instead of dish ones. If you get the same hex adapters I did you will need to trim down the nut by about 3mm as pictured. Chop on line: Washer on the rear: Still spins fine on the front: Needed the spacer on the rear: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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