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Ordered a FG formula one car!

Did you use a different pink sheet

Here is mine if anyone wanted to know what it looked like with different paint

Starting from Scratch - from parts inventory of Hyper's 7/8 etc .... Here's the start First Order of business - is to build some more Hobao 8 Gear Spider Diffs. Then the astute observer will note the front suspension is that of the Hyper SS. Due to my disdain for the standard Hyper ST Pro [ Hyper 7 steering knuckles - noted for their ability to pull the king screws out of the aluminum knuckles and destroying them ] Ive decided to give this Hyper SS style suspension a go and see if we get a bit better durability. At the onset Im a bit skeptical of their robustness and the metal of their CVD/Universals - so I may try another suspension system altogether [ LOSI 8ght Buggy ] - and as a last resort - run the Hyper 7 buggy "stuff". Also to note - the ackerman rack for the Hyper 7 / 8 / ST Pro is NOT compatible with the stock Hyper SS steering turnbuckles and rod end design. Improvisation is needed here. Diffs first ... then modification of the parts. Body will be AE SC8 - pretty standard fare there ... Tires - Proline Badlands 2.2/3.0 Wheels - ??? still looking Still baffled by - what front and rear bumper system to try and run ... Hyper 8SC ? Still on the hunt - suggestions appreciated. If anyone has the interest - they can peruse many of my other long ago RC builds - especially my custom race truggies from back in the day [ Tazer PRT ] at my old photobucket albums: http://s27.photobucket.com/user/socalrc/library/?sort=3&page=1 [ Enjoy old school RC **** - some of them ] Updated Build Parts List: Chassis - Hyper ST Pro Gearboxen - Hyper 7 / ST Differentials - Hyper 8 Spider Meal cased diffs Center Spur - 48T F/R Diff - Ring Gear - Hobao Spider 6 hole - 43T F/R Diff Pinion - Hobao 13T Radio Tray - LOSI 8T Servo Mount - Hyper ST Rx Tray Box - Hong Nor XR conversion - Ultra LX2e Motor Mount - Hobao Hyper SS buggy Rear CNC Uprights - Hobao Hyper 9 - Ebay Center Driveshaft - Hobao Hyper ST Pro F/R Driveshafts - Hobao Hyper 7 / 8 Shocks - Hong Nor Jammin Big Bore 16mm Rear Upper Camber Links - Mugen MBX5 buggy [ any will work - will change to Hyper 8 when they arrive ] Captured Hing Pins - Front - Mugen MBX5/6 Rear CEN Racing [ ebay ] large truck - front and rear hub lower arms Jammin buggy Will keep updated as I add new stuff... Thanks for watching Sputty

Hi just thought I would pop up a thread of what next rc is on the cards or just taking a fancy..... I looked on msuk and was checking out summits far too much...... What are you guys eyeing up?

Uh huh, yup, exactamundo

Pay day next week, and going to pick up hpi q32 after that who knows, want go 1/10th racing this summer so might go for an associated b5m.

For someone new coming into the hobby, this is a really good buy: http://gb.trapletshop.com/radio-race-car-international-plug-and-play Its a small magazine that covers the basics of electric RC

Good news!

Giz it here!

I'm currently hovering over the BiN button for an axial deadbolt, who knows if it's a hit, this'll be my boys & I'll get something uber from axial...

I'm the master of hitting the bloody button!

You will be amazed with just how much better a 5ive T is compared to the DBXL... I was wholly unimpressed with the DBXL during my short ownership mate...

Road car of some sort for car park looning, and a ir tank for the lad so we can fight! Sherman preferably but might go T-34.

Welcome, I'm from Rochdale, but I try not to shout that too loudly haha I go to a few different places, one of them being queens park in Heywood on the bmx track when it's quiet

Wirral merseyside, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Possibly a G-Made Sawback as I want to build a Class 1 rig however it could just as easy end up being a SCX with a D90 body.

No idea, maybe a 5ive or a 1/8th Truggy of some sorts......

I had a good run today, in the wet aswell, rain no rain, rain no rain, what the f, what's it doing lol! but it was a good today really enjoyed it, running really well aswell, screaming it was in the wet, iv only got 12 KKs in the rears and it wasn't doing bad saying it was very wet, i prefer the other paint scheme gaz,

Hi And im from UK equivalent of Compton ( Oldham )

Hi, welling in kent

Hi and blackburn

Wheels ordered, as well as a few other minor pieces. I will look for a new shell over the weekend, and try to set up my Vantage a bit better.

I wouldn't take that out on a windy day mate unless you can afford to buy another one [emoji12] [emoji23]

The lil Losi needed moar downforce Yo!

glad ur happy with ur purchase....I like happy buyers!!!!

You've got t bones so you're pretty much sorted, she'll wise I got a hpi one from wheelspin for 18 quid I think it was, there's a few choices of clear shells that fit That toe in is normal yeah As long as your mesh is set right you shouldn't strip spurs at all, my first one lasted 6 months until I bent the top shaft, I didn't realise until I'd done two more ,replaced it and now it's fine again Otherwise my only breakage has been front hubs which I got in aluminium

As stock, you would have a 3570 brushless motor and 35A ESC. That motor looks a lot like a rebadged EZRun unit, and the finned ones are actually smaller rotors in a larger can. They work OK, but are a bit short on torque. That limits the gearing they can pull as motor temps would rocket. I had a similar 4300KV setup in a 2WD Stampede, and whilst it was quick enough to be fun, the motor would get very toasty very quickly. You can upgrade the electrics ( both ESC and motor would need doing ) but to save your diffs from death, I would stick to 2S. What you can do is either go for a slightly higher KV motor....and something capable of pulling a higher gear for more speed. Your current 35A ESC would not handle a bigger motor without smoking...and upgrading your ESC alone would not give you any performance gain, as the motor will still be the limiting factor. The combo Noj mentioned is what is currently fitted in place on the same 2WD Stampede Will be faster than stock, and as it is both a better motor...it's also a 4 pole motor so it's got more torque . This gives you more flexibility on gearing and will allow it to go faster. The right setup on 2S will be plenty for your car. New the motor and ESC will cost around

join the q..lol!!

You can buy different rear hubs toe change to in. They are very reliable and unless you crash very hard it will last a while before parts need buying.

You can't tune the LSN in ANY meaningful way when the HSN is wrong. Your motor will be boggy becuase it's getting way too much fuel. This will show issues at ALL revs, as the crankcase will have a build up of unburnt fuel. Get the motor fully up to temperature, and get the HSN sorted. Then, if you still have issues with the motor bogging, you can tweak the LSN to sort it. If you don;t you will end up with no end of problems when you try and tune the thing properly. Your HSN will not respond as it should as you potentially have over leaned the LSN. Then you end up with an over-rich top end as you compensate for the lean midrange. If your HSN is on base settings, then it is VERY rich. Sort this first. If you tune in the proper order, rather than trying to sort specific issues, then a lot of the problems go away.

Scale speeds are usually rubbish, and most people quoting speeds have never actually accurately measured the speed of their car and are just guessing. Speeds of '50mph' are usually utter rubbish and the stuff of E-Bay adds for rubbish cars. If you want a REALLY fast car, look at what the ROSSA guys are doing. They are building cars designed for speed. The best judge of speed is how fast it feels like it;s going. As long as it's fun, don;t get hung up on numbers. For me, the best thing about 1/5 cars is the weight of ht ething makes them travel over the bumps in a more realistic manner. Smaller lighter cars bounce around and don;t ride the bumps as well. They use normal 2 stroke petrol motors, which run on pump petrol mixed with 2 stroke oil. They are derived from te hsort of engines that power chainsaws or strimmers. Simple to build and simple to maintain. Average tanks are around 700Ml and 40 minutes runtime is the norm. It will depend on how you drive as well. As the fuel is massively cheaper than nitro, a petrol RC is actually cheaper to run. Right up until you crash badly. Then you find the costs can make your eyes water. Servos on steering are double the size and will cost

Get hold of Si Coe's Esprit 2 and convert it to 2.4ghz - about

Wicked build!! Its almost too good to race! You need a custom sprayed body now, the kit ones never do the cars any favours!

I know a few people use the Code and its 'alright' though quality control is a bit iffy at times. Its quite popular with old hands coming back to RC and wanting cheap sticks. However I'll say to you what I said to them - learn to use a wheel. When I got back in, I needed a new reciever for my KO Esprit 2 40mhz but they were

according to the manual the hsn should be flush and the lsn should be 1 1/2 turns in from flush (idle gap is 1mm) http://www.hpiracing.com/assets/documents/instruction_manuals/101870-bullet_30-glb-m-v1.pdf

Flat out - 4 stroke and 2 stroke have totally different requirements. Andy - I actually think with that monster of a pipe you have, it will make virtually no difference. I've got a length on my BZM pipe to direct it out the back of the car. It works a treat. No discernible degradation in performance. These pipes on these cars are designed for the 'average' engine at hey will have everything from 23cc to 34cc attached to them. The volume of the chambers in a 'tuned' 2 stroke pipe should have a direct correlation to the combustion chamber displacement. These weed wacker motor we use will all be flowing differently based on tune, carbs used, air filters restriction etc. Bottom line is stick the pipe on mate....

Two Turnigy Trackstar servos, RCMK air filter for the DBXL, a 2 stroke mixing bottle and a brand new Losi 5ive Mini body that only cost me

Lmao ^

All PMs replied to. Provisionally sold to Mr Capri. Cheers, Graham

ok a few of the champ racers upgrade to a 6t orion vortex ( thats super fast stuff racing champs ) i would say 12 - 17 turn would we around a nice spot for you Coops, not very fast so your still having that feel of speed but its not going to be finger twitchy on steering her round. 12x3 will give you around 35mph playing with a 50 tooth spur and a selection of pinions (try a 16/50 ) but be warned it's a different chassis something like this for a upgrade from msc to brushed with a bit more kick. esc a mtronics sniper 12 : http://www.modelsport.co.uk/modelsport-uk-sniper-rv-12/rc-car-products/31550 few motors orion : http://www.modelsport.co.uk/orion-sv2-formula-pro-bb-12x1/rc-car-products/23591 etronix : http://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-sport-tuned-modified-brushed-motor-14t/rc-car-products/369089 something like a radient reacktor 3500kv brushless would fit to at around

Fantastic 4x4, had 3 in the past sj410 sj413 and jimny all brilliant off road!

Very nice

I'm interested in Lot 4 but you say you got them with a Tmaxx but are they for a Tmaxx?