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Mine at the minute.

As I recall, that thread ended questioning my suggestion that BRCA cover was "anytime, anywhere" and not just at BRCA organised events. You are right about there being no obvious reference on their Website, but I have since received this years handbook and, on page 21, it says "Anywhere at any time in UK". In any event, at

I converted a CEN CT5R back in the day to electric using the original engine mounts and 2 jubilee clips to hold the motor in. Bit rough and ready but it worked seeing as a lot of the EP versions of vehicles now still use modified nitro platforms so getting something to fit shouldn't be that hard really if you put in the research and a bit of elbow grease, that reminds me, need some elbow grease and a left handed screwdriver

Yay loud noisy fast things are out to play again! Silverstone Classic Media Day by Harry Measures, on Flickr Silverstone Classic Media Day by Harry Measures, on Flickr Mustang Monday! by Harry Measures, on Flickr Mustang Monday! by Harry Measures, on Flickr

Carsima GT10DT Heart Transplant While I really liked the way this little desert truck performed overall the sensorless brushed motor really annoyed me. Fine at full speed but had a real cogging problem at slow speed which is what annoyed me as this truck is really good at the slow speed stuff as well. No amount of trying to reduce the cogging really worked. Changes needed to be made so I'd be able to fit any motor I wanted. Unfortunately the stock gearbox won't let you install a 540 type motor so I knew that needed to be changed. I got hold of a Maverick scout gearbox that was just the right size although the motor would fit the opposite way round and the motor would thus be on the other side of the chassis. I marked the centre point of the original gearbox mounting holes and used this as the centre point for the Scout gearbox. Then just drilled the new mounting holes (countersunk on the underside) and bolted the Scout gearbox in place. Next was to sort out the driveshafts.The stock driveshafts are the dogbone type. The Scout gearbox has 5mm shafts so I'd need need new fittings at that end. I got hold of some Huco 4mm to 3mm metal U-Joints and drilled one end out to 5mm and the other to 3.5mm. Cut the dogbone bit off one end of each shaft and fitted the Huco couplings. The rear shaft just needed the dogbone part removed but the front shaft needed an extra 5mm cutting off. You can see the little stock gearbox sitting next to the chassis. The steering servo had to moved over to the other side as the battery would now have to fit where the original motor and servo had been, but it was a simple five minute job to drill a couple of new mounting holes and swap the steering linkage over. The battery would now have to fit on it's side instead of laying flat but I was able to use the stock arm that holds the battery in place by making a new rear bracket from a piece of aluminium angle that the arm hinged on and simply used a body mounting post for the front of the arm to clip to. Simple but effective. With the chassis being made from a flat aluminium plate it made all the mods so much easier. I had a suitable brushed 17T motor and waterproof ESC so I decided to try them out. Now simply a matter of bolting in the motor and fastening the ESC and receiver in place. One change I did make to the Scout gearbox was to fit a Traxxas 56T 32p spur gear and a Traxxas 18T motor pinion. More suitable gear ratio now. Did a test run and the top speed was about the same as the original brushless motor but so nice and smooth at slow speed. Really liked the way it performed. Of course if I wanted to fit a sensored brushless motor later on no problem, but with the way it runs now I don't think I'll bother. You may have noticed a few other little changes I made to the GT10DT. Got some clear body panels and painted them in Tamiya PS-16 Metallic Blue. Removed that horrible oversized light bar and fitted a Fastrax light bar with four rectangular lights. It was slightly too wide but the ends could be bent in a bit to fit. Bolted onto the stock mounting position as well so a nice neat job. Fitted some Absima alloy adjustable shocks. Last but not least did something about the stock tyres. The stock tyres have fairly poor grip off-road and they're a bit on the small side. I didn't want to go too big though.This isn't a monster truck. Got some 90mm diameter crawler tyres off eBay and fitted then to Losi 1.9" mini crawler wheels. The beadlock rings were blue, but not the right shade, so I sprayed them with the PS-16 paint. Came out really well with a nice smooth satin finish. The spare fits on the stock mount and is just small enough to fit in-between the cage bars. Overall really pleased with the result. Better performer than stock and has the factory look about it, not some bodge. Sort of a mini Yeti. John

Bzm sidepipe

http://www.silverbackrcproducts.com/ Check out different colours and all prices are on there, I'd highly recommend getting some of his screws too when they're back in stock. Strongest beadlocks on the market bar none, I've snapped HPI, KM and Hostile ones but never a Silverback, even smacked into a curb and snapped a HPI wheel clean off but the beadlock was still in one piece, albeit scratched

Exact ones fella bought from the same seller dont buy any of the chinese cnc pedals theyre all carp

SSD's

I was taking the pee lol

That's cool dude The bug is looking sweet, very inspiring ..... More ideas floating around now though

its what comes stock with the last model fs flux....

I believe the waiting part but patiently?????? John

Fixed the Blitz.

Easy enough to do if you use a 6ch or more Tx and Rx and depends how bored you are, sorry that I hijacked the thread Jeff.

Ran the Hyper for 5 hours straight around the Herts Astro track today

Public Liability, in case you injure someone or something (other than you or your property). The alternative doesn't bear thinking about; if you seriously injured (or killed) someone - could happen, e.g. an airborne model hitting someone on head - and chances are, without insurance, you're not going to see your house again! I've worked too hard for what I have to risk it all for the sake of

Just echoing what said already, a decent brushless sensored waterproof combo is sadly wasted on a scx10, now the big advantage of a brushed set up is drag brake, a esc with drag brake and a good brushed motor will hold on silly inclines, proved that with my wraith at black rocks. As also been said, it's your path to choose what tickles your fancy.... As for servos, I do like savox and had them for years but thanks to aj, moved over to a hi-tec in my wraith and with 6v up it, it's just sublime, even with heavy wheels and sticky tyres. For a scx10 no expense spare the tekin fxr or Holmes hobbies brxl are still the daddies of brushed crawler esc's but.....the Quicrun 1060 is a unbelievably great bit of kit for very little money....

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=MIP+Maxx+CVD&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XMIP+E-Maxx+CVD.TRS0&_nkw=MIP+E-Maxx+CVD&_sacat=0 http://www.miponline.com/store/index.html Al.

Looks like lots of fun was had

Awesome job. My 6 year old loves the brushed storm but when I go brushless he'll be getting a 1/18 to play with.

Perfect!

The Traxxas CVD's are excellent quality - I use them at 6S in my Mental Maxx. MIP also give options, including a telescopic option ?? These will be good as well. Avoid the cheaper alternatives - I've snapped a few of them in the past. Al.

That's a good price, they're a lot more over here.

I've decided to join the Savage XS club. Picked one up from my local store yesterday Unfortunately its still in its box! Need to get some connectors soldered up for the batteries. I also have the Alturn servo and some Traxxas rod ends so I guess its worth swapping these before first use? Anything else I should do? The pinion seems to come loose a lot so should I just go ahead and loctite that first too? Do I need to check the slipper?

These aren't aimed at people who have RC's right now, so the older chassis is an irrelevance. These and the MJ trucks are meant to get kids into RC, and for that they are great. My only quibble is that the spec is too good for the target market, making the cost far higher than many would pay for a first RC. I'd like to see this sort of shell on a Maverick or FTX selling for

Welcome to the forum, while im always curious about new ventures and ideas this one is a bit odd. I don't understand what would draw someone to drive a "real robot" in a "real environment" but use virtual weapons against opponents. It seems like a pointless exercise and why not just have it all virtual. If your going to have things attack each other at least make the attacking real. Otherwise your not really bringing anything new to the table. You would be better off sticking balloons and bb guns on rovers and having them drive around shooting at balloons fixed to each rover. As a closing point while I don't mind you bouncing ideas back and forth to our members please don't use the forum to canvas for funding otherwise this will be removed.

I get around 20-25 minutes out of a single

Dear Traxxas, Make something new, you money grabbing turds! Tug.

Yea I remember the instructions being useless, I just fitted how I thought it should go and it works fine

carnt fault abbots rc delivery , never waited longer than 2 days ,, awesome ,,

Hey Derka I'm down in Aberdeenshire in the Alford area. Got a couple of crawlers, couple of trailers and a few bashers, not into serious racing but love weekend forrest & mountain fun (not sure that sounds right - LOL). Happy to meet halfway if you fancy a bash//trail/crawl sometime. Also happy to help out with advice and tips if I can.

Ran the Ally-Maxx, ran perfect!

Took it out and got it nice and dusty yesterday[emoji2] https://youtu.be/hToVR-IkVHE

My 16 year old cannondale