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I originally bought a second Hyper ST Pro as a donor car for my other brushless ST However, when it arrived and I'd had a chance to look it over properly I just couldnt bring myself to cannibalise it for parts lol So I got a new rx battery, got the engine running and it pretty much worked flawlessly Thing is - nitro is messy and noisy, the engine in it hasn't got a pullstart so you need to use a starterbox, I tried tuning the engine but I messed with the linkages too much and couldn't get it how I wanted it. Kids, work, busy busy busy = not enough time to do anything lol Its just been sitting on my shelf gathering dust and I've been thinking of selling it but figured I'd convert it to leccy first then see how I feel about it Here's what I've got for the conversion so far... Nitro hyper st pro (with a very pink shell - that's how it arrived, honest!) A hobbywing 150a esc and a leopard 4274 2000kv motor (currently part of a TT MTA4 conversion thats been put on the back burner for a while....quite a while actually) A motor mount that I picked up from ebay - there was a guy selling these mounts on here at one point but I don't think many sold, saw them on ebay at a later date and ended up getting one for a good price, even though I didn't need it at the time I picked these T-bones up from ebay the other day for the bank busting price of around 6 quid! Some hub extenders with hobao dustcap hexes The shocks on the ST are hong nor 16mm big bores with some absima/team c brushless springs which need refilling with some much heavier shock oil. The diffs all need refilling as I haven't touched them at all and I think the last owner had used some really light oil in them I have some tyres that'll need ungluing then belting Think I'll start by stripping it down and giving it a good clean up

Jim, I picked up a full set of the rovan tarmac busters from hobbyking international warehouse for naff all, slipped through customs as well, have fared fine on a bl set up...

Next I tackled the electrics. The wires on the motor where very long, as where the wires for the ESC. Rather than shortening both sets of wires I just cut down the motor side. I had bought a bunch 4mm straight connectors from Hobbyking and some 4mm right angled plugs. The straight connectors where used for the leads between the motor and ESC whereas I used the angled ones for the ESC to battery connections. I ended up doing a decent job and finished it off with some heat-shrink: Looks a bit like an arachnid... The blue wire is used to join 2 2s batteries to make them operate as a 4s. Motor connected up: I'm not that happy with the routing, still looks a little untidy but it can bet tidied up without too much of an issue...

Not too sure if this is in the right place but here goes Wanted a Sand rail for ages so after doing a deal I ended up with a Associated SC10 as a donor vehicle Taken me about a week in my spare time to fabricate the chassis although I did struggle welding it up and could not get the quality of weld I normally produce not sure if this was down to the quality of the tube or something else The chassis is made from 1/4 inch stainless steel tube with stainless plates The shocks need heavier duty springs ( anyone recommend some that will fit the SC10 shocks) Anyway enough rambling on enjoy the pictures

it will work out to be expensive when buying all the parts seperate and even then it may not handle as well as some already higher spec cars. maybe weigh up the parts which are actually needed to make it perform better and parts which are just for fancy. or if you got deep pockets blow the lot and have a nice shiny tt02. the worlds your oyster.

its the 64 million dollar question pal. plastic and flex is good if you have some prangs and hit stuff as it rarely breaks. as the flex absords the impact, when all csarbon and alloy then things break and twist and will need replacing but things like handling and setup are more precise because of it. its a trade off. if you like bling and can drive (as i can but poorly lol) then all shoudl be good pal

No it been fine

Drill blanks are great for strong pins as long as you get the hard rolled stuff like : http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=360918599521&alt=web

Ally don't flex, I'd fit an RPM.

i have a brand new set of rovan on road wheels and tyres, wheels are gen hpi, brand new and there pretty decent, mail me if you want a price on them, or i can just sell the tyres on there own.

Could you post a link to the eBay listing? Amazing what experienced eyes can see in a pile of chassis' and parts

I have some 5000wt oil waiting to try in the front and rear but I'll do that when I get a new bearing set. I noticed a few of the bearings felt a little rough so new bearings should increase the efficiency of the drive train. Are you running 6s then? 60mph sounds mental! I still get ballooning but it's only slight so I'm happy with the power transfer front to back now although I don't know if my tyres have been banded. I've seen the work that has gone into your shell and take my hat off too you. I wish I still worked in the school I used to work in a couple years ago as they have a vacuum forming machine and would love to do something similar to what you have done.

I'll bring you one dude.

I've used the HSP upgrades on my original Strada MT, I got them from here: ">http://>

Yeah I have similar issues with tyre ballooning. My diffs have 7k - 10k - 7k at the moment and medium flex belted vp pro evo striker tyre's. But a 60mph + the tyre's were still catching my body. So I've cut nearly an inch out of each side of the stone gaurds. Luckily I am in the process of making a new body so thining it down is not an issue. Excuse the roughness of it at the moment. It work in progress.

My point is that you can't make a correct judgement on the temp of a motor without a proper way of measuring it in the first place

forgot to say don`t buy the proline under tray they really suck i had one and it lasted all of 5 mins before it was basicly junked in the bin luckily i got it free

no idea about km shells but heard the proline are abit pants compared to the hpi one

Doing everything in my power to get back early today so I can make this..

1964 1/12 Landy http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nauticalia-1964-Land-Rover-Scale/dp/B006GB1DJO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408774104&sr=8-2&keywords=1%3A12+landrover Really, really nice. Definitely looks the part. John

saturday 13th september.temple newsam 11am

If you going to split, first dibs on the rear tires

Hi yoshimoto I can do

The savox metal gear servos sometimes cause glitching so most people run can capacitors when they install them. There isn't always clutching issues though, for example both my RS4s running the sc1251s don't have issues and I don't run caps with them. My WR8 OTOH needed one.

OK...the paint is on, and it's all back together again: Little white piece just in front of the pullstart is the fuel filler cap. Pop it open and you have a filler point plus a vent so you can hook up and pump in the fuel with a little hand pump. Cap pops over it to keep it all clean and tidy. My favourite bit though.... the dashboard From right to left .... receiver power switch..... manual kill ( remote kill switch still in place as well ) ... and a spare should I decide to fit lights at some point, which I may If I can find a 1/5 scale steering wheel, or make something that looks good, than that's going in on the right hand side of the dash. Also want to add a windscreen

Recently purchased a space grey iPhone 5S 32gb, replaced my ancient 3GS which has served me well for nigh on 4 years until I finally smashed it rather spectacularly against a kerb. Still works mind you but I'm not a fan of getting glass shards in my hand everytime i try and text. Loving the slo-mo and burst features on the camera. Fingerprint recognition is a bit of a gimmick but it does come in useful for purchases on the app store, although I no longer use it due to having one of these bad boy cases. Doubt i'll be breaking it in any hurry!

I'm a rather happy bunny today. Finally finished the cab for now, I do plan on some little bits and bobs but for the most part, that's finished. I've also made some very good progress last night and today on the bed, so that's almost complete for the moment too. Also got all the electrics put in, only a temporary measure as you can see, just wanted it moving under it's own steam, don't think I've ever had such a big grin on my face for a maiden voyage as this one, even just 10 minutes in the garden was VERY rewarding indeed. I can now totally understand why you scaler guys spend so much time and money on your rigs, in the right conditions they can look fantastic. It's not over yet, but it's getting there, and I'm already extremely happy with how this rig has come out so far.

The chargers supply the voltage and current needed and then the phone will use what it needs to to charge. It should only use what it was designed to take from the charger. If you charge the s4 off the s2 charger it will still charge but it will just take longer to charge it. If you charge the s2 on the s4 charger it will only use what its maximum (say 0.7A) will draw from the charger. If the device has a minimum requirement of 1A to charge then it may not charge at all from the 0.7A charger

Fitted alloy front and rear bumpers, alloy front shock tower and suspension top protector and alloy rear shock tower......oh and a dom v2 clone pipe Cant wait to bash it!

Sprayed my servo tray. Yes. Its fluorescent pink.

Painted Not perfect but ok for a rush job. I'm glad I went with the tamiya cherry red that my daughter chose.

That's nice.

I'll see what i can do Back on topic,heres some more!

having a day off means getting things done when its too hot to go out !!! I had some Tarot carbon fiber retracts to fit well i got them done on the f555

Is it me ... Am I getting old and cynical... But it just looks to me as though the price of RC's is getting utterly stupid. You want a Stampede 4x4 ..and it will cost you the best part of

Totally agree mate. Mine is standard plastic still (as are all mine!!) and it flies. Just got a slightly upgraded head kit and FG tuned pipe but nothing special but its the way it gets the power down which is impressive.