Leaderboard

So, just to finish the story off on this one. On careful inspection I saw remnants of old glue (yellowed in appearance so old) which I then couldn't honestly attribute the damage to the courier, so I didn't! I contacted the seller and despite some initial resistance, he agreed to take the kart back and issue a refund. I got the cheque refund on Saturday and I'm now down just for the carriage both ways, so about

My 5 Important things to learn in Photoshop 1) Adobe Camera Raw 2) Curves (and how to colour correct) 3) Layer masks 4) Paths 5) How to sharpen without everything turning to hell

Thought i'd share some pics of my hopped up Trophy Buggy Flux Upgrades: Upgraded steering bushings to bearings 7075 Anodised HB Lightning Pro Evo Shock Towers 7075 Andodised Edit Center Diff Mount 7075 Aluminum Servo Horn HB Big Bore Shocks with Blue springs + 30wt front, / Red springs + 35wt rear HobbyWing XeRun 150a HobbyWing XeRun 2200kv Sensored Motor 44t Steel Spur 19t Pinion Specktrum SR-3300T + Telemetry sensors T-Bone racing Basher Front Bumper T-Bone Racing Wide Rear Basher Bumper Schumacher Momentum Big Block tyres on dish wheels Homemade mud flaps at rear Custom painted body shell ...and... Some cheap ebay shock socks

This year's Sweep UK Rug Racers is getting close and it's geared up to be an epic one! This year we will have the only Mardave one make winter series and just so the TC boys don't feel left out there will be new Sweep tyres designed and developed specifically for our high grip carpet. These new tyres are set to rock the indoor racing world, come and check them out at Rug Racers! The event will again be held at Wodson Sports Centre Ware on our huge 34m x 16m Prima GT track hosted by the HRCC club. It would be great to see some MSUK forum guys n girls down for some racing. Full details are on central booking and I am happy to answer questions about the series here. Bring on another series of awesome racing and I hope to see you there!

Roller sold and going to keep the electrics. Mods please close

castle 2200kv motor endbell tapped to 4mm threads as used on losi 8ight lost one of black screws replaced with silver but does not affect anything end wires are a little tatty but work fine will include some replacement wires never got round to fitting them BUT motor works fine with no issues looking for

My exo: its here! Box art is impressive build begins Build restarts with blue accessories its getting there! Shocks done Posy shots firm shock springs are on their way, so i will loose that preload soon finally, you cant not love these wheels

Well as you all predicted it was indeed a loose grub screw. Tightened it up and all is as it should be again.

OK, just had it out and have roughly tuned it and OMG! What a change! The top end is now about an octave higher in pitch and it flies now!!! It was really badly tuned from stock, almost a full turn on the high end and half turn on the low. It used to sit and pick up revs before it took off before, leaned the low end out a bit and now it takes off! The high end was very strange. I leaned it slightly, no difference, leaned it a bit more, no difference, leaned it more, revs dropped and it stalled. Wound out (richened) the carb screw about half a turn futher than it had been to start and noticed that the engine was much more responsive. Would it out 1/8 turn and it was even faster, and two more times until it stopped improving, then went back in by 1/16 turn. Basically this means that it was running LEAN out of the box! Good job I ran it in at 20:1 and not 25:1! Anyway, it's running brilliantly now but it started to rain and I was on my own so no videos yet, I'll get some up soon. I have now noticed though that the brakes are totally insufficient for the speed this thing goes, so an upgrade is definitely in order. I noticed it twice tonight. First time when the car slammed into the big kerb at the edge of the grass, and the second time when it absolutely rattled into my 1:1's alloy! On the hugely positive side, nothing broke. At all!!!

great start rich!! now to do a nice guide on these 5 lol

best thing to do is go to the clubs you plan on running at and see what people run, have a natter with the guys there and they will be able to guide you the right direction. the thing is if you wanting top spec of everything be prepared to exceed your budget. if i was you id go second hand for most things except lipos unless they are hardly used and mint condition with no swelling. keep you eye on the sale section on here but mainly oople.com you see more tc stuff going thru there aswell as electrics. ive dropped on some nice kit second hand cheap just need to know the right places.

Photoshop is a steep learning curve but check out Scott Kelby on the Internet. He has a good way of making it sound so simple. Sent using Resurrection Remix JB ROM & DorimanX Kernalled SG2

Really? Hm. I've never had a problem with it - it's Dropbox. I think MSUK downsizes though? So maybe its the forum shrinking them badly? Ps. I'll reply to your email when my head stops swimming. Still sick!

I have one with wire on, how desperate are you? I can post one to you next monday if you like

thats a tamiya connector http://www.modelsport.co.uk/logic-rc-tamiya-connector-set/rc-car-products/35134

When I first bought my Revo 3.3 it was just starting to get cold, so I would leave the Revo above a house radiator perhaps 30 minutes before I was going to use it - outside the house. Well maintained, these things don't smell much anyway. After a good blast, I'll leave the particular truck outside the house to cool for 10 minutes, then just inside the front door, then it's happy days. BTW - we've just had our second boy, 2 days ago. Al.

The only way to have your 1/5 unbreakable involves removing the engine or putting the car away wrapped in cotton wool! I have seen a few guys pour

Every car will/does/can break no matter what make it is. The HPI is only regarded the best by people who own them and it's certainly not the best all round. The Losi, MCD and FTX are all good untill they wear out and MCD's do this for fun. Competition cars... Hoerman is the most popular in the UK followed by Elcon, Contrast and FG but that doesn't say a thing because with the right promotion, the tables could be turned upside down - TBH there is little in it anyway. Touring cars/trucks/F1 you'll face the same problems and more than you do with an off road car. @ feedtheinferno are you bringing your Losi to the freeprawn supercup?

switch was broken on mine too - I managed to carefully whittle a match to the right size and shape - worked pretty well... You can get the switches on their own http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c681bab7e And then either re-solder the wires of the new one - or dismantle it - and extract the black plastic switch part.

thanks for the kind words mate i got the shell off ebay, theres 3 places that spring to mind, ebay sellers, mikecaz and hwpeterl are both the original sellers from hong kong and now martin at rc-bitz has them in stock and in the uk. you can mount them all different ways but i have made some custom steel sliders that not only protect the shell when on the trail but also hold the body in place with 4 bolts in the original holes in the shell at the bottom of each side, when your ready, i can make you a set up if your interestedm come with bolts and painted in black too.

Try a quick servo test.. Hold the brake down. Turn the wheels rapidly. Let go of all controls. If they seem quick and return instantly to neutral when letting go then all is good. If they seem slow to move and get stuck before returning to neutral, your batteries are running low. Failing that... Your LSN needs adjusting. More than likely it is running too rich. Turn your LSN clockwise (in) at 1hr increments until you notice an increase in performance. You may need to lower your idle rev's to compensate for the change, as it may not want to sit still after a LSN change. If so, decrease your idle rev's in half-hour increments until she sits nicely!

Que mission impossible music Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk.

lol your location is there but you can put it to hide also there is hundreds of other houses in the area there is no garuntie they will instantly come to your house lol plus youv just told everyone you have motocross bikes in it so it dont matter if you show it or not everyone knows what you have now anything else is a bonus lol

It could work for gravel, would be worth waiting for a response from one of the Flux owners on here to see what they say. (I'm just going by my friends experience, as on loose dust/dirt the tray tends to just collect it all around the servo's as it enters through the hole in the shell.) As for pipes, most will run fine as long as you reset your engine to the factory settings and re-tune from there. Also, make sure you get a left mounted pipe which is suitable for a .28 engine.

Look great on my screen!

Can't beat a good dark pic fella, they both look pretty sweet to me. I'm a fan of dark

Strictly speaking, pitch refers to the angles used to create the tooth profile on a given gear. However for our purposes, we can think of it as a number referring to how big the teeth are. For your spur gear and pinion gear to mesh properly without grinding each other into oblivion, they should be of the same pitch. The merits of different pitches is something that can lead to spirited debate between hardcore engineering types, but for our purposes, all we really need to know is that gears of the same pitch work together, while gears of different pitches tend to destroy each other.

Yeah,. I'm certainly no thief but some of u are offering up too much info guys..Your location can be found!! be careful.

Nice one,.

Not only that but suggesting a twin pack adaptor with 14awg wire? My Savage XS has 12awg, and my Overlander 3900mah 3S also has 12awg. This beast should be 10awg minimum but ideally 8awg.

ive never done that before

Thanks for advice guys .. only probs iv had with it . It floods the motor easily and bogs down a lot low revs . Adjust the carb and it runs ok for a bit before needing more adjustments... Like people said just cheap and quickly manufactured part I think

Give JFS666 the prize, his pic is much better than mine

I have a TT01 that I set up for rally use. It saw some success when campaigned against TL01s, TB02s and the like. Haven't used it in ages though, as it is literally on the other side of the world at the moment. Hope it'll arrive around Christmas, at which point I'll be looking for like-minded people to race in the East Midlands.

Had them for a while now, they work pretty nicely, still look cool ! Oops added the wrong photos ! Here they are !

haha that first one was class, here's a couple of my own video fails

deans ........ .......... when will stupid companies learn lol

I've just followed that link and bought a large rampage launch ramp can't wait to test it.

hey could always fit a pair of wings \0/ lol

I don't agree here, my ally parts have been superb. My mate bought a stock version and kept breaking carriers and knuckles. Now he's fitted the ally parts and the weaknesses have gone away.

I got a bit polish happy Edit alloy diff mounts fitted. Nom nom Rolling chassis Just waiting for my wire tidying kit and will get everything fitted back on

Oh if only i had the cash lol.... just out of interest mate how much you looking for it ??

Just an idea instead of selling them on there own, why don't you email some airfilter manufactures and see if they are interested in using this product. It's worth a shot I suppose but I would think they have already tried experimenting with filter covers. Worth a try though...

Back is fine? Missing the roll cage atm

My bodges always have a use don't fret P.S. Am i the only one that likes the main chassis purple? Looks kinda nice with the yellow shell!

Can I have it back now?! That is a work of art mate, really excellent job