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Locking this until I can clean up the mess. *sigh* If you have a problem, sort it elsewhere, don't spam up the forum with your petty problems. Edit - Aaaaaand we're back open. Keep it on-topic, not abusive/insulting/threatening or just plain arguementative, or we'll have no problems keeping it locked.

Not great but it was my first time videoing .

Saw this on oople the other day looks pretty sweet. Another up yours to Xbox fanboys.

One of my crazy mates in the snow

Just seen this link on another forum i haunt, I love this stuff, its amazing whats on your doorstep. Im looking to incorporate a spot of bashing into a few of these visits, Reckon make for a cool day out, just wish i could do photography as well as rc's an climbing.. Anyway i Hope you's enjoy the rummage. http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=28%20days%20later%20urban&source=web&cd=1&sqi=2&ved=0CCIQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.28dayslater.co.uk%2F&ei=jT1ET5PNILK10QWKpMWPDw&usg=AFQjCNGfLfdKATI6HaLULTREdPTCPe-3bw

Also I wouldn;t recommend alloy suspension arms at all. The 'give' in the plastic ones absorbs a lot of crash damage. You can replace stock with RPM plastic ones....but give alloy opnes a miss. Bned one and it doesn't bend back.....

'They' make them with any motor you want.

it varies, but its a good all rounder bit of everything and ash you might have to settle with roller boots and holding onto the back of my push bike soon

John for the flywheel if you get 2 long m5 bolts yuo can screw them into the flywheel till they touch the case, then turn them 1 turn at a time and the fly wheel pops off. I have done it this way loads of times before

Monthly meets sound good! Any future dates planned?

He might be drunk ? Sorry it has sold , I have another in the pipeline so if that comes up I'll let you know

Got same truggy and starterbox as RTR package Is the belt and drive cog ok Managed to strip mine Replacement came upgraded as metal cog so defo a weak point Wound second advice on pushing on glow plug to start as chassis dose flex quite a bit Alignment pegs can also move giving poor contact Hope this helps

the 1st picture is clearly too loose the 2nd looks better A good way to test the Mesh without paper - is to hold the Spur gear or differential gear and rock the Clutchbell - there should be a little amount of movement - no more the 2mm tho If there isn't any movement and its instantly trying to move the spur its way to tight if the clutchbell has a excessive rock - its too loose Paper test can help tell you whats going on - but not guarentee'd Its experience will tell you whats going on Ziggy

with norco - dont feel bad about asking for help, this is whole point of the community and been fellow enthusiasts - Shame i couldnt get a spelling enthusiast lol But to me sounds like you still have the New engine rich tunes With the engine been new - the piston is very very tight at the top of its stroke in the liner Its not uncommon for people needing to constantly heat the engine up before running, it should settle after about a gallon The trophy Buggy sounds like the tune is much better then the Bullets or TT The bullet sounds excessivly rich still - and needs to be leaned out more, thats if its pluming smoke and spitting if it isn't - then you've got way to far and are running lean The TT(trophy truggy btw) sounds like its running rich as well - if its idling for 10mins and THEN cut out upon driving thats okay Its because these engines aren't really meant to be left idling - but driven The engine slowly keeps building a backlog of fuel up and when you ask it to mvoe - more fuel is added - and it just cant cope with it so it stalls But 10mins of running at idle and it hasn't stalled then means the tune cant be far out - and would leave it its always better to run RICH then lean Ziggy

3' 30" ~ 4' 05" He talks about exactly what I mean.

the best wheels in the world for the handling are spi's http://www.spiracingwheels.com/2009/mtwheel.htm they have mental off set lifetime warrenty as well

Also:- Are you definitely pushing down on the glow exciter rather than the rear wing . As the chassis may dip enough to "switch on" the starter box but the proper contact may be taken up with the wing flex. Do you definitely have a starter box flywheel on the engine, pull/roto start systems may use a flywheel that is a tad small for your purposes.? The slot for the flywheel on the chassis may benefit from a SLIGHT enlarging

pahaha i was feeling really ill and crappy today, and this just made my day xD

Just wanted to give it a try Ting

your wellcome to come to swindon raceing anytime

hi, welcome to the forum on road or off road fella?? speed passion do both on road and off road brushless rtr cars for

this is a product for racers, provided there isnt a massive inbalance, it wont make a difference for baching, but in racing anything that shaves 0.000001 seconds of a lap time is worth

Definitely jelly that you didn't come up on Saturday Despite very heavy rain the morning before, we still managed to clear it all out and have some fun with our rc's,

Welcome to the forum mate. That is a very open question, so if you can narrow it down to what type of RC are you after? Or where will you be running it?

Been a while, but there is now some more progress to report Having cleaned down the truck, sortedthe engine mounts and generally got it back to running condition again, I set about locating the shell I wanted. I got no replies from teh RallyGame UK website which had fallen off the face of the earth, so ended up resigned to paying 30E for postage....which was painful. I cast around and asked if anyone else was interested in buying a similar thing to share the postage, and HootmaRoot stepped forward. Excellent...now the postage was 15E which for courier postage from Italy is OK. So in went the order. Ironically...just this week the guy from RallyGame UK got back to me saying he had a shell and that the website had suffered major technical issues. Damn...still...that's life. If anyone else wants a shell like this I can give you the contact details. Well...today my orde rfrom Dleta Plastik arrived. Big box...bigger than I was expecting! Had a look at the shells inside, and they are actually pretty good. I went for the extra thickness 1.5mm shell, which should be tougher...but some of the creases in the moulding are not perfect. The 1mm ones HootmaRoot ordered are much crisper. They look very nice indeed actually. The Audi shell in particular looked a bit off in the pictures they post, but is 100% better in the flesh. I have gone for the Lancia Delta Integrale....and it looks spot on. You don;t get window masks, but that's not the end of the world. I went for hte spoiler and the sticker kit, though the stickers aren't exactly what I want...I had to have Martini stripes though Will ge tsome pictures up as soon as I get them things home. Then I will have to start work on the shell mounts and paint. Also need to make up some bumper/skids to fill the front/rear gaps so the shell can't snag

Thanks ting think i am defo going to get some off these as i like them and maybe like u said as well get for some on and off road but funds not so good this month Cheers again Mez

There's rumours going round that batley boat club are cuming up to play too

I change the chasses to 6 cell chasses. I ordered HB TCX battery holder, but fitting it was abit of a pain, because the battery holders fitting holes, were coming on the strapping tapes slots, so I modified the parts left from the shock towers and made my own adjustable battery holder.

Have to agree here, it's by no means a great car, but it's not a bad car either for a beginner. Hsp stuff is far superior to most imported Asian models like acme tech stuff and the numerous other eBay specials that float around.

Looks like a Rs4?

looks to me like a hpi micro rs4

its a micro rs4 you can still get parts but bodys are harder to find unless you like the mazda 6. more info here you also can get them in drift form http://www.hpieurope.com/kit-info.php?lang=en&partNo=601

mines the white and black one

Wow thats a shame, they are great looking cars.

suprised you didnt stick blind boy in the title *runs*

rob read though this it one of the best set up guides i found explains every little set you can do, csor.co.uk/wpress/?dl_id=4 ,it a pdf file

There was no music playing when I've been there! Glad you enjoyed it. Was a nice weekend. Have had nothing but troubles with my car. One thing after another breaking. We will have to have a meet up as long as the weather keeps getting better.

where do you want to race rob,mini pins ,spikes and simalar for swindon,crimefighter,bowties ect for slough and spring leeaze,conact paul wise he got 3 bin bags full{from swindon fb page or kevin brunston rc stuff for sale,there do you a few set for a good price}paul bought a bin bag full for A

My new second hand xray first time racing against losi http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dK5tfHdhKyc

Go on Jim you know you wanna Gav

its cool, i forgot to add the video on youtube! http://youtu.be/IanAnMKrW64?hd=1 http://youtu.be/EJa-OM6q9D8?hd=1

resurrecting a bit of an old thread but I would recommend it for sure! I not long got mine out of the box but so far it is excellent. There are some bits to look at though. All this info is what I have picked up by reading everything I can find and summarising below! the gearbox and axles are bone dry - they need stripping and greasing before you do anything else! make sure you have a good allen key for the grub screws in the prop shafts - they are thread locked and V tight! tyres need weighting - I have 200g lead in the front and 100 in back. This alone has helped no end with lowering the c of g (I used lead roof flashing I found. I hammared it gently flat and cut it into strips about 22mm wide using metal shears. A sharp utility knife and several passes will work too for cutting the lead. I then wrapped the strips around the recess in the wheel and taped it tight with insulation tape. lower the body shell - dropped mine down about an inch (from the factory, my shell was drilled wrongly on one side so it sat pi**ed on the chassis and looked odd Still to do: remove the front and rear bumpers - serve no real purpose other than to hang you up on stuff. remove the mounting lugs on the axle too (Now done on mine but don't cut the mount off under the axle input shaft! It leaves the axle open as the lug isn't solid. Ask me how I know!! ) replace tyres relocate lower links inboard at chassis end, may replace with the axial style bent links shorten shocks (by fitting internal spacers) approx 10mm. (Now done. I measured the external spring spacers and made rubber spacers for inside the shock the same length. That shortened the shocks and by removing the external spring spacers kept the spring preload the same as original). Think that's about it for starters! It is a great crawler intro straight from the box but there is scope for the tinkerer on a budget too. As you will see from above, alot can be done for free! Hope I haven't upset anyone with this post! I just wanted to summarise what I have found on the forums. There are a good few threads and posts on here! HTH Rich

i managed to find the site and WOW!!! had a bash this weekend its pukka!!

Hi MattB+ Turn firestorms upside down, turn wheels left see the little screw? take it out, put on a drop of blue threadlock and tighten up, just snugg. turn wheels right and repeat process. Turn firestorm right way up. Remove left wheel, see the bolt in the top of the carrier? snug it, theres one in the bottom to, snug it. replace wheel. remove right wheel. repeat process. these last four bolts will need doing after every bash. tighter steering HTH Jason ======================================================================================= UPDATE: Was out today, when the firestorm cartwheeled and it wouldnt steer properly one way, and I new straight away it was related to the above post. I turned the car upside down and sure enuff the Bolt was missing..... Well only the screw head was missing, it had snapped of and left the thread in part no 5 from stalk 100320 (servo saver set), luckily I had a spare one just in (cheers dave), But I did'nt have a Bolt, Then I saw the Bolt and nut for for the rear wing which is no longer used, This bolt fitted just right and I was able to do a field repair and carry on playing. I dont know what caused the bolt to snap, but it's good practice to keep the above spares in your parts tub. Theres plenty of room in the firestorm steering area, so when i've had a Brew, I'm gonna see if I can modify both the bolt's with longer equivelants and a pair of speed nuts thread locked in place, or maybe a single locking nut. Update 2: I got the callipers out and measured up and it's going to be: 2 x M3 16mm Button head screws 6 x M3 washers 2 x M3 Locking nuts use threadlock Tighten the nuts down to just before they bind the steering.(dont overtighten the car wont steer) Couldn't get out this weekend to field test, so will post back next week. Update 3: M3 16mm screws are two long, (Choice was 12mm, too short, 16mm too long), so remove exess with a dremmel, I stripped the steering down to oil it, Bolted the steeriing saver together Like this Screw/ washer/ servo saver/ Washer/ Arm/ washer/ Locking nut. and the dremeled the excess thread off level with the nut. Sorry about grainy picture, it's a snugg fit, but had no problems with the nut catching on the upper brace. I did try a speed nut, (half thickness) with thread lock, but this too worked loose. Finally had a days bashing and the steering didn't fail.

I THINK I JUST WET MY PANTS!!!!!

wheels still available

ouch my eyes

tuning - NOT CLUTCH There is this thing call underload (on its wheels) and Noload - on a block or in the air When its Noload the engine is able to spin up easily - Kind of masking the Rich tune Hence why you NEVER tune on a block, its 1 sure way for piston seizure too When the engine is underload, the engine isn't able to Generate power due to the tune, and since there is alot of resistance the combination means it just stalls Ziggy