Silent D Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Rear 36mm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasemoo Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 ijust need to know the lenth for the rear ones for the nitro plz the front is 100% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roniehan Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 (edited) Check out my Bullet Nitro to Electric build with the new wheelie bar http://www.rctech.ne...conversion.html Now I am ordering the rod end set to replace the ball type rod end so everything will be screwed tight like the one on the rear so will not popping out from a big jump. Edited February 24, 2013 by roniehan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silent D Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Broken rear carrier this weekend and replacing with the same part just isn't an option... it was only about 30* outside so I'm sure that contributed to the brittle plastic. I came up with an upgrade using stock Axial Exo rear carriers. It's not a straight-forward swap but it works. The first 'requirement' was the dual mount points for the outer hinge pin. This had to be there so the dogbone or CVD angle wasn't way off causing the diff end of the bone to not sit deep enough into the diff cup. The outside bearing is 5x10x4, same as the stock Bullet. Inside however is a totally different story. The Axial carrier uses a 10x15x4 so I had to make up the difference somehow. I needed a spacer to prevent the axle from pushing out through the bearing because the inside bearing seat is further out than the stock carrier. For the spacer I decided to use another bearing. I used a 5x11x4 bearing as the spacer because It also acts like a flange. If you use another 5x10 it can slide into the 10x15x4. (I realize this is a little Ghetto, but it works) Next up is mounting the carrier to the a-arm. The Axial carriers require NO modification. You use the stock hinge pin spacer and could use 1mm longer but to help this, you can seat the axial hinge pin set screw. Gives you a more snug feel. On the top side the Axial uses a more captured style of mount for the upper turnbuckle. The stock carrier was simply mated to the top with a screw threaded into the top. To remove the play I used a 2mm spacer. Stainless cap head and stainless nylon-nut complete the installation. The turnbuckles have to be extended to get the camber back to stock. Starting link length Final link length Mounted with stock axle pins, spacer, hex... This method opens up the possibility to use STRC alloy Exo carriers in the event it takes HPI another year to get their alloy parts out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roniehan Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 (edited) Hello guys Now that my Bullet conversion project has been 100% completed, I thought I would like to share with you guys in case some of you would like to ask any question please feel free to comment. Cheers http://www.rctech.ne...ml#post11871180 Edited February 28, 2013 by roniehan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caleebra Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Great work guys! Very cool. I've had a search through this thread and cant seem to find an answer, but what are the usual causes of a 2WD vehicle? Slipper clutch too loose, missing SC grub screw? Dog bones? Diffs seems to be doing the right thing at either end, stop one wheel the other spins, spin in opposite directions when in air. But motion applied to wheels does not transfer to spur gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silent D Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Could be the pin that the diff pinion gear sits on. Grab the center dogbone that's attached to the diff that isn't working and spin it by hand with the wheels in the air. If you spin that dogbone and the diff doesn't move it's possibly something with the pinion or bevel gear. If it does spin, it could be a very loose slipper and / or bad slipper pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caleebra Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 (edited) Wow! Took it out for a blast this weekend with new Gens Ace 2S Lipos (gave up trying to get good performance soldering deans onto the Turnigy I bought - car kept cogging etc). I never broke a thing despite some pretty ropey driving! These batteries are the way forward - plenty fast enough for me. They are only 4000mAh hours and I'm using a rather conservative 3.4V cutoff at present so run time wasn't amazing - I think I will consign the 3S batteries came with it to the second hand market and invest in a couple more. Edited March 4, 2013 by caleebra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3.0dundee Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 another dogbone replaced thts 4 since september!!!,also finaly gt round to tightning the grub screw so now hasve 4wd again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajones89 Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 I was missing a rubber o ring on mine and was causing no end of trouble. Bit of fuel tube sorted that Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3.0dundee Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 nah i aint missing any of the orings as is a diffrent ogbone each ime not the same one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullet3.0 Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 Hi I bought my bullet a few weeks ago and really like it. Anyways i would love to put some 2.8 Proline Trencher on my bullet. Anybody know about witch rim combo for it ? Any help would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedrh Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Hi. I bought a bullet st 3.0 10 days ago. After the first run and the tunning everytime i go out i brake upright sets and hub carriers. Once from each side. Both times crashed the wheel on an object with high speed. If i replace them with aluminium parts will it make a difference? And last for more tanks? Or buy some spares and hope to improve my driving skills? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimknickers Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Can I ask what do the flux ones sell for second hand ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimknickers Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Can I ask what do the flux ones sell for second hand ? Anyone? Few on eBay, but I imagine the older model isn't worth too much? May as well pay extra for the waterproof? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caleebra Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Anyone? Few on eBay, but I imagine the older model isn't worth too much? May as well pay extra for the waterproof? I picked up an absolute belter off Gumtree, mint condition including charger and 3S Lipo for less than Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wraithstorm67 Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 Hi. I bought a bullet st 3.0 10 days ago. After the first run and the tunning everytime i go out i brake upright sets and hub carriers. Once from each side. Both times crashed the wheel on an object with high speed. If i replace them with aluminium parts will it make a difference? And last for more tanks? Or buy some spares and hope to improve my driving skills? Did the same with mine at first just had to learn how to drive ,it was my first nitro ,didn't realise how quick these things were Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasemoo Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 guys do you have a problem like this when you go a litle bit fast the bullet take the right or left side by it self i have the nitro version Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedrh Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Did the same with mine at first just had to learn how to drive ,it was my first nitro ,didn't realise how quick these things were I did my first upgrade using aluminium parts for MT2. Just needed different set of bearings. But even with the bearings it cost less than half from the original parts for bullet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wraithstorm67 Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 How much and were from I like the look of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wraithstorm67 Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 guys do you have a problem like this when you go a litle bit fast the bullet take the right or left side by it self i have the nitro version Have you changed the steering trim on the rx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasemoo Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Have you changed the steering trim on the rx no i didnt change the setting on the rx i think it because of the drive shaft i removed one of the front ones because it getting out all of the time i ordered the cvd shafts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasemoo Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 I did my first upgrade using aluminium parts for MT2. Just needed different set of bearings. But even with the bearings it cost less than half from the original parts for bullet. what is the part numbers and what bearing plz reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasemoo Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 guys one more thing i need to know what is the right length for the part in the picture for front and rear right and left plz thank you \ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedrh Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 what is the part numbers and what bearing plz reply http://www.asiatees.com/display.php?HPI-Nitro%20MT2%2018SS-Parts-Hop-Ups&brand=HPI&model=Nitro%20MT2%2018SS&id=53730 http://www.asiatees.com/display.php?HPI-Nitro%20MT2%2018SS-Parts-Hop-Ups&brand=HPI&model=Nitro%20MT2%2018SS&id=53743 You need from 1 piece 10x15x4mm bearing and from 2 pieces of 5x11x4 bearings. I bought a dozen from each from e-bay, china. I used 1 small from the side of the wheel and 1 small and 1 big from the inside. Also you need the spacer that is already on the original set between the bearings. That is what i used to make it fit. I don't know if there is a better way to fit it. Also the holes for the screws are too small. You have to wide it a bit. If you never done it before put some lubricant spray on it to keep the temperature down to avoid a broken screw while doing it. Make a hole turn and take the screw out to clean the hole. And repeat it until you do it all the way in. The cost is aproxx 30$ with shipment cost for the parts + the bearings that you can find very cheap on e-bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.