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caleebra

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Everything posted by caleebra

  1. Regretfully selling most of my RC kit due to lack of time (kids!). This is my HPI Savage X 4.6 Nitro RC Truck and most if not all of the parts from the RTR kit. I have the box too. There’s a new battery for the rotostart, and a spare glow charger. HPI temp gun. HPI safety stop is fitted. Spare Dodge Charger body shell, never used. All in good working order, although engine might need a bit of tuning. Collection in person in Aberdeen area. Postage possible if buyer is willing to organise, but I cannot ship the fuel. £250 No returns due to the nature of the hobby. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. This sounds familiar! http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/index.php?/topic/202902-Runaway-Engine---Nitro-Newbie%2C-New-Savage-X I tightened all the bolts around mine, put a return Spring on the throttle and set needles to stock, eventually got it stable but not sure what fixed it in the end!! Still quite rich at the moment but fast enough for me!! [emoji41] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. How stiff should they feel when pushing along the floor? I am trying to think back to my bullet but that was BL, 4WD... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Looks ace!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Yeah it's the stock nimh that woulda came with the kit, and the old non-waterproof ESC. There's nothing in the manual about ESC settings so I assume this one doesn't have any? I expected to be able to set full forward/full back etc when I put the 2.4Ghz rx in... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Yeah it's the stock nimh that woulda came with the kit, and the old non-waterproof ESC. There's nothing in the manual about ESC settings so I assume this one doesn't have any? I expected to be able to set full forward/full back etc when I put the 2.4Ghz rx in... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I took our EFS out for a first bash this weekend after strip and lube session on Friday. All was well, felt a bit slow but I put that down to the used and completely stock brushed setup and kit 2400 battery. After only five minutes and a couple of full throttle runs it wouldn't accelerate from stopped, unless very gently eased in the throttle. Once up to speed it seemed fine... Battery a bit crap? Motor drawing too much juice? Are the firebolts maintainable? Brushless upgrade will happen eventually but speed more than enough for my 8yr old DD to join me on a bash with just now. Nice handling little car, I like it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Best bet is to sign up for a photobucket account for hosting your pictures, then hot link them to your forum posts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. You got a link to the bodies? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Send a mail to HPI in the States and say that you bought the system because of the brand heritage and the warranty offered and if they don't fix it you're off to buy a Traxxas. It's not the customers' fault a local distributor is struggling to pay their bills... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Hello from the North East Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Fitted the HPI engine stall button to the savage [emoji1305] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I just picked up a "1st Generation" E-FS, (RTR kit # 10550) with the Blue body shell... hopefully get it for the weekend! I have a set of 2.4GHz radio kit to fit in to bring it up to more respectable modern spec, and a spare waterproof servo - what are the other main differences to the later releases (106025, 105845) - Is it really waterproof? A waterproof ESC and receiver box, but the same motor? Battery in same location with exposed connectors?
  14. Any Aberdeenshire bashers looking in of late? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Got sorted with an RTR, please close! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. How about buying a stronger steering servo then using your sf20w as throttle? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. You can get the nuts out. Few things to try, try tapping a torx bit in there with a small hammer... needs to be big enough to swage in to the rounded metal, so slightly bigger than the Allen key you were using no. Only turn with bit driver when you're sure it's got some purchase. Vise grips are another way. Otherwise it's drill the head of the bolt off. Be careful with this one so you don't damage the slots on the chassis. You'll then need some new screws... Persevere! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Reset all screws to factory and take the servo and all linkages out the equation and control the throttle by hand. Do these things have a spring? Does the slider move freely by hand? Could also be an air leak. But you need to break the system right down and remove as many variables as possible to home in on the issue... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Anyone done one of these?!? Wife picked it up for me the other day... Not done any static models since I was a kid... Need about 1000 paints!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Not sure if you got my last pm, can you send me your best price posted?! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. The corners don't like to crash into things, so get some spare hub carriers and the like. I didn't go for ally ones as my thought was that it just moves the weak link further inboard... Best upgrade the driver first! Get lots of free space to trash about in... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Done! Don't wanna bash it now!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Blank message?!? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. That tx has a simple button for ch3 so you could have on/off control but you'd need something to convert the pulse train to useable signal for led on/off. Or just wire up to red/black and have them on all the time? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Still looking... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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