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HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!


henzy190

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I did the work for the front and rear suspensions....

dm-XVFJ.jpg

dm-0PYY.jpg

dm-BN68.jpg

Not so bad.....the work is reversible....

Now i check the wheels angles to set the car as good as i can....

Edited by Riki82
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My truggy wheels spin when off the ground at idle and they also spin when I pull on the pull start cord. Searching on the forum leads me to think it's clutch related. Which part needs replacing? Spring?

I'm no expert on these things sorry!

Yep, your clutch spring has snapped.

 

This often happens if your idle is set too high, as the clutch is constantly trying to engage against the bell and thus putting additional strain on the spring until it eventually goes "ping". 

 

When you replace it, make sure that when the engine is running, with the wheels off the ground, that they don't spin. If the wheels are spinning, your idle is too high and the clutch is engaging too early. Reduce the idle until they stop spinning. If the car then struggles to keep running, lean off the low speed needle slightly until she ticks over nicely. :)

 

Personally, whenever I snapped a spring I also replaced the clutch shoes just for peace of mind! ;)

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Don't suppose anybody got a spare set of engine mounts have they please?

Just got my truggy roller today ready to drop my lrp 30 in there an don't have the rite mounts :/

If you got a set for postage that would be great there only a 5er on eBay just thought I could get some help from another forum member

Ramsay

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Yup mud guards help.  What material u use mate?

 

I also got my rear diff bearings covered with a separate centre guard bolted on to diff case :)

Using lexan sheet.  Though I hear those rubber buckets from hardware shops are also good (ultra flexi)

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Quick question for you guys I'm searching flea bay for a trophy truggy iv got coming next week an I'm looking for a new shell something different :/

Something like this but not sure if it will fit well

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=380819991996

Or this

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=380819990986

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks

Ramsay

 

 

Its all about wheelbase, width and length.. If you get these as close as you can then the shell looks OK to far out then the shells looks odd.. 

 

Stock wheelbase is around 375mm so i wouldn't go any lower than say 320mm and even that is a little low.. Width look at between 200mm- 240mm and last of length that gets tricky depending on weather your going to run with a rear wing or not .. With a wing around 450mm-465mm without about 500mm but this will depend on the style of shell, flatbed truck types can work well, the bug shell and even a summit style shell will fit .. There are loads that will work just depends on how much effort your willing to put in 

 

Body mounts are the next thing to think of, the stock ones that come with the truck have been chopped down.. From what i remember if you order new ones there longer so will help should you need longer posts.. if you need to move the posts back or forward then you may need to get creative and make your own or find some others that fit .. Schumacher rc do some long posts or look at the traxxas posts for the summit or emaxx but these will need to be modified to get them to work.. You can also use alloy angle to give a slight height and forward /backward gain .. This is what i used on my bug shell and it worked out well but like i have said your need to get creative for it to work     

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Yeah I see what you mean about getting it right,

I'm creative enough modify a shell that needs slight adjustments such as trimming body moving body posts or fitting new ones ect

I guess I just needed the dimensions and to know wether the vast majority of shells will fit without excessive mods

I'm liking the look of the Bug, hummer and dodger charger shell

Will keep you updated when I decide which one to order lol

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Yeah I see what you mean about getting it right,

I'm creative enough modify a shell that needs slight adjustments such as trimming body moving body posts or fitting new ones ect

I guess I just needed the dimensions and to know wether the vast majority of shells will fit without excessive mods

I'm liking the look of the Bug, hummer and dodger charger shell

Will keep you updated when I decide which one to order lol

 

 

Save your cash on the hummer shell its made of paper thin lexan and breaks real easy.. The dodge is quite strong and the bug is OK but has some weak points around the rear ..  Happy hunting and i'll keep my eye out for what you get 

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Ah so the humv is off the list then and I may just get the bug shell for show I think it looks sweet!! but still think the new dodge and badlands would be an evil combo :D

Cheers for the help though much appreciated (y)

Oh an a few pics of my new TT while were on the subject ;)

1A9D5F85-7EEB-4A34-964B-CDDB13543902_zps

273F5724-FEEB-4BB4-8E03-2676C3D434BB_zps

Ramsay

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I used a PVC sheet (0,75mm thickness)....and 2 allen screw 3x25 with washer for each wheel.

 

Nuts aren't needed.

 

Have you a picture of your rear diff bearings cover??

I'll get 1 up later mate.

 

Oh and still awaiting arrival of the engine mounts before anybody tells me it's too clean!!

I already knowwww aha :P

Nah there's still dirt on steering linkage threads  :tease:

Edited by Deafty
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How many people recommend the HPI aluminium rear hubs for the trophy truggy. I know they're expensive but mine keep breaking.

Save some cash fella and get the ones from asiatees there just as good and 1/3rd of the price .. Look under the HPI buggy 3.5

Edited by mydoddy69
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Bear in mine I had 1 that didn't line up the inner with the outer bearing exactly. (binding issues)  Sent it back and replaced free. Sorted.  Similar issue with the servo saver too.  But they are good when you have correctly machined ones :good:

Edited by Deafty
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I got hpi upgraded front knucles cheap on eBay I could tell there a lot stronger a soon as I opened then The plastic rears have been a nightmare for me since week one i have edit ones on now but they are wearing on the lower pinhole Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by hoggles94
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Thoughts on these ? Thanks ALLOY FRONT C-HUB C-HUBS CHUB P FOR HPI TROPHY 4.6 TRUGGY & TRUGGY Don't think the link has worked will fix it later on computer Sent from my iPhone Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by hoggles94
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Does anybody know if my Trophy buggy with force 36 engine will run a 20t bell OK or will it be too boggy? 

 

Also, if I am wanting to install a bell that is to big to mesh correctly with standard mounting positions, what is the best way to move the engine/mounts over further to fit a bigger bell?

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Anybody noticed the HPI product number changed for buggy and truggy flux?

 

Truggy Flux 101707 is now discontinued and replaced by 107018

Buggy Flux 101706 is now discontinued and replaced by 107016

 

They both are now sold with the crappy looking TF-11 transmitter. Does anybody know why they did that?

Besides this nothing changed.

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