djd001 Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 Hi folks, Just a brief introduction to myself. I always loved RC cars ever since I was at school, my friend had an electric RC car (not sure what it was) and we'd take it for spins across the school for ages, but alas my own financial constraints stopped me from owning my own. Until now (OK 17 years later) I've owned the usual gadget shop mini things, the £10 market jobs, but never did they fulfil my desire. I've decided to take the plunge this today and get a Nitro car (going deep end), not sure if this was a wise idea as my knowledge of RC is nil (excluding where to put batteries). I purchased a HoBao Hyper 7 TQ 21, the model shop owner ensured (ensnared?) me that it was a good entry level car with the potential to grade when (if) I get better. So this leads onto my point in joining............What do I do??????!!!!!!!!! Ok So I've heard about running an engine in, the guy told me roughly what to do: Stand on a brick 6 tanks of petrol slowly turning the carb. screw about an 8th after every tank About 1/4 to 1/2 throttle during all of this for about 2 second bursts But I haven't done this as of yet. Is this acceptable? What would be the recommended spares to keep immediately? Spare glow plugs? And more importantly gow do you set up for an optimal performance and what do you look for in getting it??? Many thanks in advance for any advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zizzle77 Posted December 2, 2007 Share Posted December 2, 2007 Good choice of car, it's very popular for beginners!(sp?) That break-in method sounds about right. Although if the car instuctions tell you different then follow them. It's always good to have a couple of spare plugs for break-in, OS #8 plugs will do you fine. After break-in you can slowly lean out the hisgh speed needle by turning it clockwise 1/8th turn at a time. It's probally a good idea if you invest in a Temperature Gauge (Clicky), then you can make sure you can get optimum performance without the engine running too hot (about 220F is the temp you want). If you haven't already you'll need a Glow Plug Starter (clicky), this simply heats up the glow plug to get the engine started. You didn't mention anything about fuel.. for the Hyper engine you'll want either 20% or 25% nitro. Also stay away from the ModelTechnics brand, stick to either Byrons or O'Donnels, they're both great fuels. I can't think of anything else right now so good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djd001 Posted December 15, 2007 Author Share Posted December 15, 2007 Also stay away from the ModelTechnics brand Oooooops, thats the 1 I've got.......... I'll finish the bottle off and get which ever of the other 2 you recomended to me the shop stock. I've got the glow plug starter as that came with the package I brought, but the Temp gauge I'll be looking out for!! Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zizzle77 Posted December 15, 2007 Share Posted December 15, 2007 Oooooops, thats the 1 I've got.......... I'll finish the bottle off and get which ever of the other 2 you recomended to me the shop stock. I've got the glow plug starter as that came with the package I brought, but the Temp gauge I'll be looking out for!! Many thanks I've used model technics before and it didn't provide much power and it turned the exhaust into an oil tank! But it's fine to to use it. Any more questions I'll be glad to (try) and help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt B Posted December 15, 2007 Share Posted December 15, 2007 Did he say to do all 6 tanks on a brick? As letting it free-rev for the whole break in period isn't that good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zizzle77 Posted December 15, 2007 Share Posted December 15, 2007 Did he say to do all 6 tanks on a brick? As letting it free-rev for the whole break in period isn't that good. Ah I missed that bit. I'd say 2 tanks on a brick, 2 tanks 1/4-1/2 throttle, 2 tanks up to 3/4 throttle, then start some higher speed runs, tuning as you go along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djd001 Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 (edited) Ah I missed that bit. I'd say 2 tanks on a brick, 2 tanks 1/4-1/2 throttle, 2 tanks up to 3/4 throttle, then start some higher speed runs, tuning as you go along. Once again thanks (and thanks to the other chap) I've done 3 tanks so far, as I've been working away and have done the run once each weekend. I was going to do all 6 tanks on the brick, but doing the revs on the brick and holding it in place. Oh the instructions said do this about 8 times!! So far the engine seems to be running nice, cut out a few times on the 1st ever start up, but I gather this is to be expected. I've a good trail of smoke from the exhaust though. I've so far done 3 on the brick, but the 3rd time I upped the revs to about half throttle. From what you've just said it's time to take it outside and let the wheels meet the street!!!! (metaphorically speaking). Then it'll be time to tune it up. I've just found some of the guides here, they are proving some good reading, but its always nice to have a personal answer as well EDIT: I've just come across this lad, (joshw) and that's exactly the 1 I have in his pic! Edited December 20, 2007 by djd001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rush-evo Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 i wouldnt do 6 tanks, i have a rush evo it only took 3-4 tanks. the spares i recomend are spare pull start and loads of bodyclips (if bashing) and also get a spare glow start. hope it helps.. ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m3lyc Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 (edited) i wouldnt do 6 tanks, i have a rush evo it only took 3-4 tanks. the spares i recomend are spare pull start and loads of bodyclips (if bashing) and also get a spare glow start. hope it helps.. ben The bit in bold I would recommend. I was driving it around park playground and completely lost one. Oh well, I have LOADS of spares. And yeah a spare glo start aswell. I got to park (about half an hour walk) and had forgot to charge my glo start before hand. got there, tried starting her with no luck then tested the glo start and there was no charge in it. I was like BUGGER. Lol. So yeah get another glo start mate. I would recommend this one. Clicky. Oh and welcome to MSUK! Enjoy your stay! Edited December 20, 2007 by m3lyc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5645_1442625668 Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 the best thing to do mate is to follow the guide in your manual,you cant go wrong(even a newbie)just take time to familiarize yourself with what you see and do as it says PS welcome to the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt B Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 i wouldnt do 6 tanks, i have a rush evo it only took 3-4 tanks. That really is bad advice in my books. Just because your manual says you only need 3-4 tanks, doesn't mean every manufacturer says the same. My LHS told me to do 20 tanks although that was too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe of loath Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 That really is bad advice in my books. Just because your manual says you only need 3-4 tanks, doesn't mean every manufacturer says the same. My LHS told me to do 20 tanks although that was too much. i say double up what the book says. if it says 2 idling on a block, make it 4 etc. it will give you so much more engine life and performance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt B Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 I could understand double the running stage, but keeping a cold engine idling over for 4 tanks doesn't seem too good. For my last engine I just ran 1 tank on a block then 10 steady tanks. It's just best finding something that works for you I guess - you can't go wrong apart from not breaking it in I guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djd001 Posted January 8, 2008 Author Share Posted January 8, 2008 Well thanks all for the advice, I ended up running about 14 tanks running 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. slowly and minutely adjusting the fuel air mixture making it leaner. The manual recommended 6 to 8 tanks, so I've nigh on doubled it. I'll definitely invest in more body clips, and as I succumb to the Glow starter running out of juice as I got the park as well, I tested it on a glow plug before I started, got the glow with about a 3 on the guage, went to the park, (10 min drive so not that bad ) and it failed to start!!! So a spare starter on the books. Now the bad news, I was running the car around an abandoned theme park car park, go it to full tilt, just turning it to avoid a kerb, it caught something, went airbourne and caught the edge of the kerb, we're talking catching the wheel square, and it totally ripped the left front off. Susspension, steering knuckle, front gear box, steering plate, wishbone. It's going to cost about £30 in spares, but at least I'm fixing it myself so I'm saving another £20, and this way I learn the workings of the car while I'm at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt B Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Thats the spirit mate we've all done it once or twice. Good thing your doing it all yourself instead of getting a model shop to fix it too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djd001 Posted January 8, 2008 Author Share Posted January 8, 2008 Thats the spirit mate we've all done it once or twice. Good thing your doing it all yourself instead of getting a model shop to fix it too I aim not to make it a second time!!! The only thing thats gutting me is I've got to wait till next Saurday to pick the parts up!!!!!, they come in tomo, but I'm at work so I can't get till then To be fair to the model shop owner, he's been good about the car with me, if I've gone in he kind of knows already who I am so the after sales care is quite good, though it isn't free!!! I know it's going to cost a small packet to fix, but yeah I love tinkering so I wont give him a chance!! Besides how else do I learn Different note I've phoned up a local racing team - I know I'm not that good!! - They have a track local to me, I asked about using the track and joining them, tey said that I should just drop down 1 day when they are there, they would let me have a go round the track and if I was interested to join up with the club, before I join the team. Notts and Derby Raceway I think they are called. got a race at nook raceway this week I think he said. I assume this is a good idea to join somewhere like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt B Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 I'd definitely say so. that way other racers can help you out if you need it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djd001 Posted February 8, 2008 Author Share Posted February 8, 2008 I'd definitely say so. that way other racers can help you out if you need it Local boys say they are not taking on!!! Though they said I could use the track. Oh well, here's a list of upgrades, I've added after the crash: Titanium hinge pins -Front Front Anti roll-bar added CNC steering knuckles CNC wheel hubs MG995 servo's Carbon Fibre steering plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt B Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 That pretty nasty, I thought clubs were for everyone? I guess not in their case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djd001 Posted February 19, 2008 Author Share Posted February 19, 2008 That pretty nasty, I thought clubs were for everyone? I guess not in their case. The guy that was there, was moaning about people coming and trashing the ground, that they had built, seems to contradict what the club secretary had said on the phone, but hey that seems to be NDOR for you, elitist I think sinch they want to race 1:5's on there. Though I'd have thought 1:5's would do more damage to the track than 1:8's!! Upgrade update: White springs Carbon fibre top plate Carbon fibre brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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