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Just bought tamiya nitrage 5.2 for 100 quid , wgat do you guys think ? Overpaid or not ? Neds littlebit of love , my first project and first rc ewer , dodnt run for few years , dont know what expect tbh


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I guess it will be a bargain if it doesnt need much done to it

Have you checked spares availabilty  ?

Have you checked the motor turns over ok ?

When you turn the flywheel it should turn over and you should feel the compression if the glow plug is in it

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Actualy i dont have it yet , waiting for it to ariwe in post , aparently it was running good before it was stopped being used , got some spares awaible online, can buy full set of bearings for difs and other stuff , same with engine  bearings , worst case scenario piston and sleve is 60 quid 

Hoping for no engine issues and that seller is honest about it , wil se i gues 😀 

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Soo , got the car 3 days ago , so far I found out the engine hawe very nice compression , through the backplate and exaust port i can se piston and sleve without any scufs and scratches ,bearing in good wisual condition with no side to side mowement, bad bearings on clutch bell , bad wheel hubs (wheel bearing mowing inside the housing ) all 4 corners, so ordered thouse , center diff shafts have axial and side to side play (its my first rc car so not quite sure how tight the tollerances should be ,so ordered new center diff housing ) also noticed that bearings for center diff and sliper clutch  mowing back ant forth in the gearbox housing so ordered new gearbox housing ) 

Plenty of rusty bolts and dogbones that will be derusted and painted (seen some guy once mentioning chemicaly blacking out dog bones , any idea how that works ? ) bad tyres and yelowed wheels that im gona try to restore back to white color somehow ,any adwice on that ?

Also tyres are shot so want to replace with similar looking oval spike tyres , any idea from what car can I pinch those ? 

Chasis and all parts wery dirty so stripped it all to bare chasis and gona start there 

So far total cost of parts 33 gbp ,so not to bad , was thinking it will be more expensiwe taking the cars age and the fact that there is non left on the market 

Any 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Soo , got some news , not sure if its bad or good news , engine , gets tight in tdc , after littlebit reading i know its because engine fitment and tapered top of the sleve, I aplied some heat to cylinder and piston mowing way more easier now ,nearly no resistense after heating it up , but there is something else , when the piston gets stucked in tdc botom Conrod looks like have some play in it ? can anyone tell me if its normal play or is it excesiwe and i have to look for conrod 
ore mayby its ok and it gets tighter when engine is running and its warm ? 
got the wideo 😄

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The bore of the cylinder in nitro engines is tapered and when the piston is near to tdc you should feel it tighten its called "pinch" and is normal

As for the play i am not sure as its been long time since i tinkered with nitro engines

 

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I will do some research or open new topic with con rod question , but for now I managed to start the engine 😀 runs quite good I think , but I only run it littlebit to dont cause any more damage to crankshaft/conrod if it is in fact worn 

I dont have that heater for plugs yet , so I taped some wires to AA battery and it worked 🤣

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At least it runs :good:

Get yourself a glow starter its less faff than a AA batery and wires

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/fastrax-nitro-starter-set-uk-plug-with-3000mah-glow-starter-1336564

A handy wee nitro kit 

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A wee story

Years ago we went to a bash spot about 40 odd miles from house

Told Yrkoon ok i will load car and you put the glowstarts in tool box

Got there and Yrkoon had forgot glow starts lol :rofl:

Anyway we used an AA battery and a length of solder to get nitros started , not ideal but it worked :insane:

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what a roller coaster of amotions it was yesterday :😜 
remembered that my cousin have rc serwice , so asked him about the play on the conrod , he said its fuc*** 
so new conrod it is , found one for 23£ , so i started taking motor apart 🤦
i went in with ball end allen key in to the heat sink to remowe cylinder head , ball end snapped off in the bolt 🤦‍♂️
i went to bring my vera allen keys , tried on second bolt and snapped off again 🤦‍♂️🤣🤣
i managed to shake one snapped piece out , but i couldnt do it on the other one 
fortunetly the bolt is not 100% hiden inside the block , so i was able to go with handsaw betwen block and cylinder head acd cut it , the remaining bolt in block come out easly
than i undo remaining bolts with one oh the allenkey with broken off ball end and it went good this time 
soo yes , dont use ball end allen key on the cylinder head 🤣🤣🤣
after taking it apart i was pleases to see sleve and piston with not a single scratch on it 😀 so atleast one good news 😜 

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