MASAKRATOR

Ill do it regardless 😜 I mean , Imagine now , you buying a car and wheels are crooked 🤣 , you would bring the car to the dealer because its damaged 😜 Just looks like is clapped out man , cant look like that regaldles what it should do , seen cousin nitro car few years back , it was hp lightning stadium truggy , looked straight and drowe straight 🤷‍♂️ Ill report back in few weeks when I get to drive the car for first time , still waiting on some parts 😀

Not all the cars hawe toe in on the back i beliwe, I showed it to my friend from work ,he has maverick quantum flux and his car dont have it , I just cant leawe it like that , looks terrible 😜 Receiver that im upgrading the car with will have gyro , so I beliwe it should be ok 😁 If no i can always go back to original setup i gues

Alright , didnt know they all come like that , like I mentioned once ,its my wery first rc car soo im dumb in that area , well , all the areas 😜 I gues ill have to jump on cad or fusion 360 to design new alloy piece from second picture that holds the swingarm pins ,make the holes wider so it can hold swingarms straight , or mayby modify original one by driling some additional mounting holes 😵 either way , it has to go

I am aware what toe in/out is , and how it might benefit the handling , but its way to excesiwe to my likings , the picture does not show how bad it actualy is , and there is no toe adjustment , only camber on the back , so if there is no adjustment for the user then it should be straight i think ,do you own same car and is it same on yours ?

back wheels crooked towards chassis any idea why would that be ? i looked on manual , everything seems to be in the right place , also the pins for swingarm ar clearly crooked towards chassis it just drives me crazy when i look at them crooked wheels 😜 Help please

Thats a shame , just broke in and granaded 😒 Im kinda scared to run that engine , scares me that it has play already despite brand new crank and conrod , makes me Wonder if that engines are such a crap or i had some bad parts ordered 🤔

Ooouu , does it do any damages when it does that ? Piston , sleve , crank ? So good i opened mine i gues If you are planning on fixing it let me know how is tollerances in your engine , I paid 19£ for conrod

And that is the car the engine sits in , bought it to have something to do in spare time 🙃 2007 1/8 tamiya nitrage 5.2 Quite nice looking car with few unusual things , dogbone from clutchbel instead of sprocket , fully enclosed gearbox (optional 2 speed kit to fit in to the original gearbox enclousure if you desire 😜) and im sure there is some other things 😜

Okay , so if the conrod is same for both engines than the crank pin in both cranks have to be same size 😄 so that would mean that play is like that from factory 🤕 yeah , i can both feel and se the play on bottom bearing in the TDC ,way smaller after replacing crank and conrod i think ill post pictures of the differences in cranks and mayby someone will eplain what do those differences on the crank actualy do and what would those difference mean in running .28 crank in .32 engine ? ,and wideos with play before replacing crank and conrod vs after replacing crank and conrod Crank on the left is orihinal one from .32 engine Play before replacing parts Play with new rod and crank Play with old crank and new conrod https://youtube.com/shorts/-CjuXsBBYnM?si=Z6YMTLPi7ieAq_I0 And thats how it was running before replacing anything , didnt start it yet , waiting for new piston pin , looks ok i think , but its only 6£ Piston and sleve looks good and have quite good resistance in TDC

Hello , sooo , like in the title Ordered force .28 crank by accident instead of .32 Firstly i changed conrod because there was play on it , after instaling it the play was decreased significantly but stil had some tiny play in TDC when the piston is in the pinch zone , so decided to replace crank , ordered crank from .28 wersion by accident , looks nearly same except some shapes on counter weight So i decided to fit it , but the play on conrod is same like witch new conrod on old crank, my question is , is the .28 crank pin littlebit smaller or the engine hawe tiny play from factory ? Right now there is brand new .32 conrod and brand new .28 crank installed Any help will be apricieted thanks

what a roller coaster of amotions it was yesterday :😜 remembered that my cousin have rc serwice , so asked him about the play on the conrod , he said its fuc*** so new conrod it is , found one for 23£ , so i started taking motor apart 🤦 i went in with ball end allen key in to the heat sink to remowe cylinder head , ball end snapped off in the bolt 🤦‍♂️ i went to bring my vera allen keys , tried on second bolt and snapped off again 🤦‍♂️🤣🤣 i managed to shake one snapped piece out , but i couldnt do it on the other one fortunetly the bolt is not 100% hiden inside the block , so i was able to go with handsaw betwen block and cylinder head acd cut it , the remaining bolt in block come out easly than i undo remaining bolts with one oh the allenkey with broken off ball end and it went good this time soo yes , dont use ball end allen key on the cylinder head 🤣🤣🤣 after taking it apart i was pleases to see sleve and piston with not a single scratch on it 😀 so atleast one good news 😜

Stupid ideas are not stupid if they work , someone once told me 😜

I have glow starter on the way already , I have gass bottle and ratchet with sockets so should be fine , cant spend to much , probably need to buy conrod 🤣

https://youtube.com/shorts/-CjuXsBBYnM?si=xwqXMXU4GnrtjEMx

I will do some research or open new topic with con rod question , but for now I managed to start the engine 😀 runs quite good I think , but I only run it littlebit to dont cause any more damage to crankshaft/conrod if it is in fact worn I dont have that heater for plugs yet , so I taped some wires to AA battery and it worked 🤣