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Krystal the Methabago


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13 minutes ago, PraetoR said:

Will you need longer driveshafts?

The honest answer is I don’t know…

 

Especially as I’m waiting for the missing driveshaft components from modelsport I can’t even really try what I have for size. 
 

Wheelbase is my main concern, driveshafts to fit can always be sourced later. 
 

Whether it’s an error I’ll find out later, but I also opted to add a bit of length to the front links as well as the back rather than stick it all in the rear - so by splitting the difference a bit I figure I may end up changing both driveshafts or neither…

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The chassis did have an adjustable wheelbase anyway, though my manual gave absolutely no hints as to what to adjust where to achieve the different sizes. 
 

I’ve added the bulk of extra in the rear with a front/rear split of maybe about 30/70 ish…

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How easy would it be to fit a second set of dampers? Can you see what others have done in the video you posted?

I would think springs would be the first option before more cost and extra work.

Would these fit or be able to be cut down?

AX10 hard springs

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Also, you can try some extremely hard, short springs, for the top of each shock, since these are dual rate. Hopefully, this will stop it hitting the bump stops and allow the sprung weight to float.

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On 16/05/2021 at 10:22, Badcrumble said:

How easy would it be to fit a second set of dampers? Can you see what others have done in the video you posted?

I would think springs would be the first option before more cost and extra work.

Would these fit or be able to be cut down?

AX10 hard springs

I like the look of them, can anyone explain how spring rates are measured?

 

3 lbs/in doesn’t mean a lot to me - does that mean it takes 3 lbs to compress it an inch?
 

Can I therefore assume that a spring per corner will hold up 12lbs and only sag an inch?  Ergo a shade over 5.4kg - which is approximately what I’m expecting Krystals sprung weight to land at.

 

23 hours ago, Badcrumble said:

No guarantee they would fit but something like this following the suggestion by @PraetoR

Short firm springs


so maybe by combining these in the top with the ax10 firm springs in the bottom I’ll end up somewhere near right?

 

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10 minutes ago, walkbythesea said:

I like the look of them, can anyone explain how spring rates are measured?

 

3 lbs/in doesn’t mean a lot to me - does that mean it takes 3 lbs to compress it an inch?
 

Can I therefore assume that a spring per corner will hold up 12lbs and only sag an inch?  Ergo a shade over 5.4kg - which is approximately what I’m expecting Krystals sprung weight to land at.

 


so maybe by combining these in the top with the ax10 firm springs in the bottom I’ll end up somewhere near right?

 

 

This thread shows how spring rates can be measured  Tamiyaclub spring rates but isn't crawler related.

There are threads that I can't currently link (or view) on rccrawler.com.

 

What I can't tell is whether either of the springs I linked would fit your dampers 😟 as they are both Axial and your kit is HPI.

 

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2 minutes ago, Badcrumble said:

 

This thread shows how spring rates can be measured  Tamiyaclub spring rates but isn't crawler related.

There are threads that I can't currently link (or view) on rccrawler.com.

 

What I can't tell is whether either of the springs I linked would fit your dampers 😟 as they are both Axial and your kit is HPI.

 

So the RCbitz Ebay link you sent has these in stock…. 
 

short springs

B1D74B16-3460-4230-BE9A-9E4A19952D1B.jpeg
 

long springs

F2B5ACA1-CEA9-4362-8C6A-19D6D7742319.jpeg
 

so I’ve asked them for their advice and to clarify the spring sizes which I can then compare to the HPI springs

Edited by walkbythesea
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The 2 bolts either side at the top above the side windows allow the body sides to spread in order to remove the interior, it’s a real blessing as the rest of the body is riveted everywhere!
 

382DB836-0D02-4788-9B9D-EB51E77396ED.thumb.jpeg.f35620b525c6da29eb420a07202a71b5.jpeg


 

Interior comes out in one complete piece. 
 

89E1D975-4242-419F-AB10-B30C49280B6D.thumb.jpeg.62987727263387cc492226e0f88d005e.jpeg 
 

 

Once the interior is removed it exposes the 12 rivets that hold the axle supports in place. 
 

750BD597-34B9-4F20-A2A1-F6661A6FD50A.thumb.jpeg.2ba2841f38677d34740a7067423c1bdf.jpeg

 

 

I even found the original rubber steering wheel jammed under the interior. 
 

1F1A6F0A-CB74-4C18-8BC4-6B6B81411DB5.thumb.jpeg.d9373b2a73cbef44d7a6f13afe1dc81f.jpeg

 

 

So with the rivets drilled out the complete axle units come out and leave the bottom of the truck completely flat and ready to receive the RC chassis 👍

 

E16CE2A7-61D5-4B5E-99A7-F3E7B59A475B.thumb.jpeg.d1fb199cb2e193ed933b9dcfc94c3b2d.jpeg

 

 

Here’s to hoping it all fits!

Edited by walkbythesea
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First trial fit of the body!


Very pleased overall but it does ride a little higher than I’d like, however  with the height of the motor the only way to lower it will be to cut out the floor…

 

D25BB142-D2D3-4A8A-B684-44C075308125.jpeg

 

A30312ED-B756-4298-BB16-6B186F2F1570.jpeg
 

Aesthetically, if the bottom of the side planks were in line with the sliders that would be ideal. 
 

 

Front clearance as she stands offers amazing angle of attack though…

 

3A225F01-D462-4ABD-904C-4898DD43C981.jpeg

Edited by walkbythesea
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