Project FrankenSTein - Hyper ST Pro/SSTe Blending

[Fuzzock]

The time has come to turn this pile of bits into a model (Hopefully!!):

 

 

My aim is to merge a Hyper ST Pro, and an SSTe to make an electric ST Pro without the horrid holes in the chassis I detest... (Vanity by my nemesis).

 

I still have a few things on the way over from Taiwan, but it is time to make a start.

 

Any feedback/advice is always appreciated.

 

Ian...

 

 

[Fuzzock]

And the diff rebuilding starts...

 

 

Although it is new I wanted to replace the oil/grease to my requirements and I am glad I did (Excuse the blur):

 

 

One down:

 

 

Ian...

[Fuzzock]

All the diffs are rebuilt now.

 

 

Ian...

[Fuzzock]

And this week I learnt...

 

Previously all my Hyper 7 Diff cases have used pass through bolts into nuts:

 

 

But I have found out that the TQ 2  diff casing is threaded instead:

 

 

What are peoples thoughts on these two designs. I.e. Is one a lot stronger than the other?

 

Ian...

 

 

[Wrighty8766]

And this week I learnt...
 
Previously all my Hyper 7 Diff cases have used pass through bolts into nuts:
 
http://cdn.msuk-forum.co.uk/monthly_2020_11/image.thumb.png.339382b1279ce60631e7abaf0c1ef950.png
 
But I have found out that the TQ 2  diff casing is threaded instead:
 
http://cdn.msuk-forum.co.uk/monthly_2020_11/image.png.d6a44f4d74bf5d75f42d73ed5452b88e.png
 
What are peoples thoughts on these two designs. I.e. Is one a lot stronger than the other?
 
Ian...
 
 

The newer version is much more convenient for maintenance etc but in my opinion it will never be as strong as a nut and bolt going straight through.

Also I’m not sure what it means for the CNC hinge pin braces that have a hole in the front one and a threaded hole in the rear one.....can a bolt still pass through the new ones?


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[Fuzzock]

2 hours ago, Wrighty8766 said:

The newer version is much more convenient for maintenance etc but in my opinion it will never be as strong as a nut and bolt going straight through.

Also I’m not sure what it means for the CNC hinge pin braces that have a hole in the front one and a threaded hole in the rear one.....can a bolt still pass through the new ones?

 

Yeah that was what I was thinking, and the maintenance convenience is not of major importance to myself.

 

Yeah the CNC hinge pins are the other reason for me thinking of switching away...

 

Ian...

 

[Wrighty8766]

 
Yeah that was what I was thinking, and the maintenance convenience is not of major importance to myself.
 
Yeah the CNC hinge pins are the other reason for me thinking of switching away...
 
Ian...
 

Now I come to think of it, I used the newer version on my hyper 7MT build and on the first outing one of the front inner screws ripped out.....not sure if that was down to me using the wrong length screw on the rebuild but it is a potential problem.

Although if it were a major issue then I would imagine the would be a lot more posts about it


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[Fuzzock]

Bit of work this weekend, although I am missing a few parts which I thought I had ordered.

 

Front: (Missing top pivot pin, but I have some 3mm stainless steel rod on order)

 

Rear: (How did I miss ordering the upper arm end pieces??)

 

Now onto wine and gaming...

 

Ian...

Edited November 7, 2020 by Fuzzock

[Stormbringer]

wine ??????🍻

[Fuzzock]

On 07/11/2020 at 23:38, Stormbringer said:

wine ??????🍻

 

EDIT: No idea what I was posting here, going with the assumption I was still drunk... 

 

(The topical award is mine I wonder?)

 

Ian...

Edited November 11, 2020 by Fuzzock

[Fuzzock]

I have spent most of this week twiddling my thumbs waiting  for the post, but I thought I would get into it again whilst I waited.

 

I spent some time last night fiddling with with the chassis from an SSTe , steering linkages from the ST Pro and SSTe, and and chassis stiffeners from the GTB.

 

Mary Shelley would be proud...

 

So first up was test fitting the from steering linkages and chassis stiffener:

 

 

I then discovered that the location tab on the ST Gearbox is not part of the SSTe chassis:

 

 

 

Bit of grindy grindy fun later...

 

 

And a perfect fit:

 

 

And same for the bracing:

 

 

Shame I lose the lovely CNC ST Pro front plate (Although part of me never liked the shininess of it)

 

Hopefully some more parts arrive tomorrow...

 

Ian...

[Fuzzock]

I am looking for some advice here regarding the ESC, Motor, and Batteries. (Lipo Virgin!!)

 

I am currently thinking of the following from my research:

 

• Hobbywing EZRUN MAX5/MAX 6 - Is a MAX5 too OTT/large?
• Hobbywing XERUN 4274SD G2 2250kV
• Turnigy Graphene 5000mAh 6S 45C LiPo Pack - Need to measure up my tray to make sure it will fit

Any thoughts on this from far more experienced people? 😛

 

Ian...

[Jumper]

13 hours ago, Fuzzock said:

I am looking for some advice here regarding the ESC, Motor, and Batteries. (Lipo Virgin!!)

 

I am currently thinking of the following from my research:

 

• Hobbywing EZRUN MAX5/MAX 6 - Is a MAX5 too OTT/large?
• Hobbywing XERUN 4274SD G2 2250kV
• Turnigy Graphene 5000mAh 6S 45C LiPo Pack - Need to measure up my tray to make sure it will fit

Any thoughts on this from far more experienced people? 😛

 

Ian...

Max6 is more than enough for 6s. You also don't want a sensored motor with a sensorless esc as it will be wasted. I would get a normal sensor less motor. 

[Fuzzock]

10 hours ago, Jumper said:

Max6 is more than enough for 6s. You also don't want a sensored motor with a sensorless esc as it will be wasted. I would get a normal sensor less motor. 

 

Thanks for the feedback as always, and I thought that it might be to much!

 

I was really wanting to be able to re-solder the wires on the motor if needed (I like my tidy short wiring!) but am I right in thinking that you can't do this on the Hobbywing EZRUN SL 5687-1100KV Motor? 

 

Ian...

[Wrighty8766]

 
Thanks for the feedback as always, and I thought that it might be to much!
 
I was really wanting to be able to re-solder the wires on the motor if needed (I like my tidy short wiring!) but am I right in thinking that you can't do this on the Hobbywing EZRUN SL 5687-1100KV Motor? 
 
Ian...

Generally if the wires are flexible then they can be chopped and resoldered, if they are the thick copper wires then they can’t be chopped.....not sure if it’s due to the flow of electricity etc or if it’s due to the wires being a pig to resolder


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[Jumper]

11 hours ago, Fuzzock said:

 

Thanks for the feedback as always, and I thought that it might be to much!

 

I was really wanting to be able to re-solder the wires on the motor if needed (I like my tidy short wiring!) but am I right in thinking that you can't do this on the Hobbywing EZRUN SL 5687-1100KV Motor? 

 

Ian...

the motor should plug directly into the esc if you get the right motor. 

[Fuzzock]

38 minutes ago, Wrighty8766 said:

Generally if the wires are flexible then they can be chopped and resoldered, if they are the thick copper wires then they can’t be chopped.....not sure if it’s due to the flow of electricity etc or if it’s due to the wires being a pig to resolder
 

 

I was more thinking in the case of where you can replace the wires completely as I see in other motors like this one for example:

 

 

It is more of a nice to have than anything, but just trying to find out.

 

I managed to make some progress today even though a few bits have either not arrived or needed ordering. 

 

Firstly my Stainless Steel rod has not arrived yet so I decided to work around it and cut down an existing pin that I had to the correct length:

 

 

Worked well and only burnt my fingers a little bit. 😛

 

This allowed me to put the front end together for the first time on the chassis. Things fit better than I expected between the ST Pro, SSTe steering and the GTB chassis (I thought there would be issues due to the different different diff cases) but it all seems to fit:

 

 

Next I installed the rear and chassis bracing:

 

 

I am a bit worried about the steering clearance at the moment and I am just waiting for the SSTe steering rod ends to arrive to see if this fixes the issue. However I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't.

 

As you can see there are no prop shafts installed at the moment as I bought the ST Pro versions before I had seen the GTB chassis and realised that they would not fit. I have the (inferior IMO) SSTe shafts on their way as I can't see an upgrade alternative. Let me know if I have missed this!

 

I will hopefully install the centre diff tomorrow and look at the battery tray/servo etc.

 

One last thing, do you like my new display case addition? 😛

 

 

Ian...

 

Edited November 14, 2020 by Fuzzock

[Fuzzock]

14 minutes ago, Jumper said:

the motor should plug directly into the esc if you get the right motor. 

I am mainly asking this question for future proofing. i.e. I trim the wires short for this model which means that I am then unable to install the motor in a future model without extending them (Which I would rather not have to do and be able to replace them instead).

 

Ian...

[Fuzzock]

Bit more work today in between dying far to much in Call Of Duty!

 

I installed the centre diff, motor mount, steering servo and receiver box today (Oh and the battery tray!):

 

 

 

I found another potential issue with my steering is that I had to got to a large radius on the steering arm than I would like to get the throw I needed on the steering:

 

 

 

We will see how this effects the steering speed once it is up and running.

 

I am thinking of putting some carbon sheet here to extend the size of the battery tray potentially, but I am going to do some measuring up and choosing the electrical options this week and potentially ordering them.

 

 

Roll on the next parts arriving this week...

 

Ian...

Edited November 15, 2020 by Fuzzock

[Fuzzock]

Oh yeah and one more thing...

 

I noticed that the GTB chassis' mounting holes for the side guards are threaded and not countersunk compared to what I have seen on other Hoboa chassis. (Although I noticed the VSe chassis I bought is similar.)

 

 

I am undecided about how I approach this. I would prefer to have the countersink option and screw from the chassis up however I don't really want to drill and countersink this chassis if I can help it. I have some 5mm Cap head bolts on order which will allow me to use the existing holes and they don't protrude anything more than a Dremel can't fix...

 

Ian...

[Jumper]

starting to take shape now. 

[capri-boy]

Some nice work!  Love a franken build - though I don't often do them from new parts!  With you completely on nitro holes, that said the ST Pro chassis is superb and loves to bash..

[Fuzzock]

1 hour ago, capri-boy said:

Some nice work!  Love a franken build - though I don't often do them from new parts!  With you completely on nitro holes, that said the ST Pro chassis is superb and loves to bash..

 

Yeah, this is a project of love rather than of common sense. 😛

 

I decided today to not drill the chassis for the side guards so I am hoping (Fingers crossed!) that I will be able to complete this without any chassis modification at all which will be nice!

 

Ian...

[Fuzzock]

A slight sidestep today whilst I wait for some parts to arrive for the ST.

 

At the same time as creating this homologation I have been converting my Hyper 7 to electric as well, however unlike my ST though I am keeping the original chassis and modifying it instead.

 

One of my bug bears of normal Hyper conversions is the holes left from where the nitro engine was. To get round this I decided to us carbon fibre sheet and the existing engine mounts (Ignore the blur!).

 

 

So first a C.A.D. template.. (Carboard Aided Design - Thank you Project Binky!)

 

 

I messed up the cutting slightly, but will sort this on the carbon.

 

 

A rough Dremal cut out. What is really bugging me is the fact that I didn't notice the change of weave at the end of the sheet which is making my RC vanity twitch! 🥴 I just need to remember that this is hidden away and not seen in the buggy!

 

I had planned to sand this to shape with my sander, but realised that I had lent my dad all my Wet & Dry! ><

 

To be continued on Sunday once my delivery arrives!

 

Ian...

[Fuzzock]

Bit of a delay as I have been waiting for parts to arrive, but I was able to make some progress on the Hyper 7e this evening..

 

I had already sanded and shaped the the carbon sheet down to the right size last weekend, and this evening I measured up and drilled all the needed holes. A touch messy...

 

 

This chaos resulted in the following:

 

 

A quick test fit later, and it seems to work!

 

 

Hopefully this should reduce the dirt being thrown into the chassis once this stops being a shelf queen!

 

 

Next I had a loverly delivery of bolts today which allowed me to replace the final original bolts with Stainless Steel versions, and after a bit of a trim these were installed and the front and rear suspensions installed onto the chassis.

 

 

The tasks left on this build are:

• Trim down carbon steering servo tray
• Buy and test fit ESC to see if a larger mount would be useful. (Carbon to the rescue here if needed)
• Countersink new chassis bolts. (Will be a strip down for this)

And that should be about it on this side project...

 

FrankenSTein is moving forward at a snails pace as I try to work out steering issues, and wait for small parts to arrive and test. I am going to have a look at this tomorrow, and install the Hong Nor shocks that I have already built:

 

 

Ian...