Derka Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 Over the years i've had various crawlers from the Ascender, SCX10, couple of SCX10.2, a few Enduro kits, TRX4 and TRX6. I'm kinda at the point of lost a bit of interest in my current crawler, a TRX4 Sport with the Axial Cherokee body. I kinda have a love-hate relationship with it. Some times its great and capable, other times its a top heavy cumbersome thing and think a more normal straight axle truck thats not so heavy and complicated (Compared to a SCX10.2 and Enduro) but then its a great portal axle truck, durable and strong. Maybe I should look into the Gmade GS02 BOM/Komodo, I find myself coming back to these time and time again. Also been watching and researching the HPI Venture... especially now as its back in stock as a RTR and SBK @ Modelsport. I quite like it, I like the FJ Body, I like the metal bits, I like the divorced transfer case, front motor and it appears on the face of it, a damn good crawler. The only elephant in the room is the short and long term availability of HPI parts etc. Other options i've looked into a little a bit is the MST CFX for a short wheelbase rig (242-275mm) looks 'good enough' on the face of it, parts are going to be had from overseas and the model. The CFX-W at 313mm was an option also, but it appears it only can have the servo on the axle? 🤷♂️ There are CMS on shapeways though . 3racing Ex-Real? Maybe I just need to re-body the TRX4? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stimpy Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 I guess it depends upon what you want out of a crawler; looks? Performance? Balance? Speed? Etc and where you are driving it. If you have had the crawlers you list previously and are bored with them then I suspect you would be bored with a venture or MST pretty quickly. With regards performance , the TRX can be strong with the right body and set up on the right features. And yes the Cherokee body is more cumbersome than the original. 👍. The Bom, Capra etc type of truck are also lots of fun and look a bit different but just depends what you’re after ultimately. May just be that you want a new truck!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post CarlC Posted June 2, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted June 2, 2020 Rebodying a truck can give it a new lease of life. I had a TRX-4 Defender, I ended up shortening the wheelbase and doing this to it. I drive it a lot now 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob bark Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 Why don't you do a custom build!! Take all bits you like from other trucks an make them work together yourself!! I have started to horde bits myself to build a new truck!!Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derka Posted June 2, 2020 Author Share Posted June 2, 2020 (edited) Thanks for the replies guys. To answer some questions... Looks: I like the chassis to look real-ish. I have no problems with the layout of the any of the mentioned crawlers. The only gripe was a non-CMS on one of the MST models. I prefer a real looking body shell. Old American trucks are great but having lived in the UK all my life I have no connection with and no nostalgic feelings towards them apart from the fact they are American classics, Bronco, Ranger, Chevy etc. At least the Jeep Cherokee and FJ body is something you can see every day on our UK roads. Performance: This would need to be high, I get bored quickly and get frustrated with a truck that falls short. I'm sure all the above have more than enough ability. I once had a Tamiya CC-01 for example...🤮 Balance: Most of what I do where I live would be classed as Trail Running. I am yet to find large rocks for some actual rock crawling. A small wheel and tire combo maybe the 'the' thing i'm missing. Speed: Brushed just faster than walking pace at max speed. I have my race buggies and an X-Maxx for speed 😀. I'm in a tricky situation where I enjoy building R/C cars and the kits etc, But I find I do get annoyed when things don't work as expected or don't fit for example with a scratch built build. I guess there are certain paths to follow with what other people have done and its all works though. It just grinds my gears buying from overseas, waiting weeks and sometimes months for bits and then they don't work as expect... Frustrating! I can't say I love any of the shells massively currently from Pro-Line, Axial etc. Like I say, as a UK resident all the American body trucks are just a bit meh with no connection. I have in my eBay watch list a stock sport body, while its very same old copy of what 99% of people will have, its something that will just 'drop' onto my TRX-4 without much hassle and it looks news unlike my Cherokee body which has been on a SCX10.2, Enduro and now the TRX4. Edited June 2, 2020 by Derka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 Have you checked out the carisma range? They do the coyote, brat, range rover, f150 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stimpy Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 Ok, some good explaining there! Completely with you re ordering overseas, can be a real ball ache!.... So, what is it that currently dissatisfies you with your TRX re performance? And what is the current set up re motor/esc, shocks, tyres, ride height? Then finally, re body, what UK trucks do you like or what would you have given a choice? (Forgetting fitting issues)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derka Posted June 2, 2020 Author Share Posted June 2, 2020 (edited) Here are some pictures of my TRX4 currently. I run it with the shock collars all the way up so it rides as low as possible. I think this is referred to as a droop setup? Running 30wt shock oil on then stock springs. Cheap China headlocks which I hate (nicer ones on the way from AliExpress (3+ months waiting but understandable) and copy super swampers with normal foams. Motor is the 550 Traxxas 21t brushed motor, 20kg servo and HW1080. Nothing fancy but ticks the boxes. I find it falls over side hilling, but appreciate you can get brass bits but it all adds up £££. Also seen the pen spring mod may help in limiting the roll. I wouldn't say it's poor in any way really just maybe the portals and body are not helping the CoG? Looked at the Carisma Rangy a few times, especially the kit delux with alloy wheels. I'm no landy fan, but again it's a bit more relateable. I do like a Jeep wrangler, the FJ looks good and the Proline F150 Raptor as we are seeing more and more pick ups in the UK now along with the Proline 4Runner. The problem I always encounter with aftermarket bodies is getting the fitment of the body low enough (trx4 inner fenders) and I like the wheels to tuck inside the body and not stick out. Then trying to find suitable bumpers etc. With a stock body, they just work and it all works well together. I'm a tough customer lol. Edited June 2, 2020 by Derka 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob bark Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 I like your rig dude looks nice!! I have a raptor body on mine but its a big heavy hardbody!! You could go down the route of having a more specific rig like a proper crawler that may fix the more technical part of driving like a gmade r1Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stimpy Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 (edited) Haha... Mr Tough Customer!! Moon on a stick too whilst we’re at it!!!? Does the body roll Quickly then fall over side hilling or does it just fall over as a complete truck? If so then I suggest thicker shock oil to try.... If not then you need to lower your COG or drive differently. Some things that lower cog: Lower chassis down with shorter springs or rod ends Lower the body or lighter lower unit Battery / gear placement in chassis Wheel / Portal Weighting Then for sidehilling widening the track helps too 👍 Driving - it may just be you’re trying things beyond the capability of the truck or of course you may also be putting too harsher inputs in on the steering or throttle - no idea! But these are all possibilities.... Edit: just looked at pics - are the bumpers metal? If so they’ll look awesome but not help sidehilling, then super swampers are not the ‘best’ for side hill in design... (knit picking a bit re tyres but there are better for that application is all) Edited June 2, 2020 by stimpy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derka Posted June 2, 2020 Author Share Posted June 2, 2020 It's actually a plastic gmade bumper I had left over. Quite like it. It's quite slow and progressive, the chassis/body leans over slowly then when the suspension Travel stops the chassis lifts and roll over time. Im sure some weight down low and better tires would help... But can't help look at shiny new things...well... Just because 🙈🤪 Maybe it's a good thing most places are out of stock 🤷 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mond Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 The MST CFX/CMX is interesting as 1. It's a great performer and 2. It will take all those fantastic Tamiya 1:12 hard bodies. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlC Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 I did two things to address my TRX-4 side hilling issues: 1. dual stage foams 2, Fastrax weighted portal covers on the front. Its not perfect but its a lot better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mond Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 11 hours ago, stimpy said: Some things that lower cog: Lower chassis down with shorter springs or rod ends Lower the body or lighter lower unit Battery / gear placement in chassis Wheel / Portal Weighting You missed one: get rid of the portals. Probably will **** allot of people off but portals on a crawler have more negatives than positives, namely raising the COG which is only partially fixed by reducing suspension travel. I've yet to see where a truck without portals can't follow let alone beat a truck with them. I would wager a TRX4 with straight axles will out perform one with portals in any situation. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derka Posted June 3, 2020 Author Share Posted June 3, 2020 2 minutes ago, mond said: You missed one: get rid of the portals. Probably will **** allot of people off but portals on a crawler have more negatives than positives, namely raising the COG which is only partially fixed by reducing suspension travel. I've yet to see where a truck without portals can't follow let alone beat a truck with them. I would wager a TRX4 with straight axles will out perform one with portals in any situation. This is what is niggling me in the back of my mind mainly about the TRX4. The platform is very robust and well made but i'm reluctant to spend £70+ on brass portals to try and reduce the centre of gravity. The ugly bead lock wheels added a fair amount of weight too. I could try brass bits and a sport body but that's £140+ on blingy bits I could put towards something else 🙈😂. Do you have a crawler @mond that you'd suggest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mond Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 If you're looking at TRX4 sport money then I'd get an Enduro Sendero. If you're looking at TRX4 defender money+all the brass, you're only a few quid short of a VS410 Pro which wants for nothing. The other alternative is an SSD Trail king. There's also the SCX10.3 and although it has portals, it has a dig which is pretty useful. It will make it way more competitive than a two speed or unlocking diffs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stimpy Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 @mond Hahaha.... Well of course Portals have a higher cog but I was talking with respect to his trx and not trying to shoot it down!! 😂😂 Whilst I do like portals, I also do not find they are necessary - perhaps as a rear axle maybe. They are more a novelty for me and something I want to build with a UniMog body 🥰 As to actual performance, if you’re gonna start spending real money then don’t waste your time with any big brand kits period! Get yourself a low COG chassis, some SSD axles, Holmes electronics etc.... But these do take a bit more thinking to put together where a VSpro has full instructions... On the cheaper sides of things I do hear the sendero get a good rep as Mond mentioned... You also get some front OD with this - more a trailing amount than crawling mind but certainly useful to sharpen steering and help on the climbs.... Sooo many different options!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derka Posted June 3, 2020 Author Share Posted June 3, 2020 Haha! I do enjoy my TRX-4 but it is quite a complicated affair compared to a SCX10, Enduro, Gmade etc. I've decided, eventually after a week of procrastinating that I will get my third Element RC (but must NOT sell this one!) , but this time the RTR Trailwalker with the 1.55" wheels. It may annoy me or may not. Either way, a set of 1.9" beadlocks and tyres resolve that. I originally have built two Element RC kits, but for £100 more for the RTR that comes with a painted body, radio gear, wheels, tyres, servo, ESC and motor you can't get near that for £100! Happy to upgrade as needed. Apart from the extra rear links, machined transmission gears and blue alloy shock bits there is no difference and these parts are not even needed IMO Thanks for the help chaps. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stimpy Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 Glad to be if service! Post some pics when you get it 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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