Team Assoicated SC6.1 - Drag Car Conversion

[Derka]

Since I love building R/C Models and generally tinkering on evenings with them, I decided a new project was in order! I'm sure i'm not alone in this, but started browsing the 'For Sale' sections of various online sites to find that ideal car that lends itself to be saved and re-purposed. Some weeks later and many, many eBay saved searches later I found a SC10 come up for sale on this very site! I had seen the actual truck previously on eBay and was watching it also, but it ended before I decided whether it was for me or not...

 

After a brief chat with the seller on here (Great chap @GMballistic) the deal was done and so the hunt and research started!

 

It's not uncommon to convert a short course truck to a 'drag' car, usually its just a case of narrowing the track width front and rear, along with the associated (no pun!) axles etc. You can do it buy using a Associated B5 buggy and just swapping in the SC10/ProSC10 short course chassis to lengthen the wheelbase.

 

Once I received the car truck, a full strip down and clean up was needed. This was my first 'ah' moment, I had not realised its an older Associated truck and used 90% Imperial hardware. Silly really, as I have a old Associated TC3 Touring car sat on my shelf with imperial hardware too!
 

This how it arrived to me:

 

Once I got the tools it was taken apart and all the plastics where treated to a soak in the sink and then thoroughly scrubbed clean. Some of the smaller bits where also treated in a Ultrasonic cleaner

 

 

 

  

Edited April 30, 2020 by Derka
Updated title

[Derka]

All washed and dried:

 

The old Associated shocks are 'Top Loaders' in such that they do not have a removable screw cap on the bottom of the body to insert the o-rings, spacers etc. You are recommend to use an Associated tool to insert these bits, no tool here and quite rare to buy from the US of A so decided to improvise. Worked perfectly and meant I could still use the Associated shocks. These may change to the V2 Associated shocks or something else with threaded collars to adjust ride height more precisely.

 

Next on the list was to polish up the hinge pins, this makes them smoother and also looks better 😀

 

[Derka]

Next up was to start the re-build process. I had bought B5M rear arms, hubs and axles. B5 front arms and steering hubs. This was needed to narrow the track width but also changed the axle threads from imperial to metric, Bonus!

The diff was filled with 80,000cst to try and keep the diff action are tight as possible. A locked diff or heavier weight may be needed once I have test it.

 

 

I am awaiting B5 rear hexes and pins to enable me to mount some test wheels and have it as a rolling chassis. 

 

After that, a body will be needed to source. There are a few options from Pro-Line. Tyres will be Pro-Line Primes or the Hoosier drag slicks with the Pro-Line Ponoma wheel. Undecided on wheel sizes. I could stick with the normal short course style which is 2.2" outer and 3" inner or try 2.2 both sides which may enable a bit more tyre flex just like the real things.

Thanks for reading so far 👍

[GMballistic]

That is very cool so far and amazing how good some bits look just from a deep clean. 

 

Hope the project goes well and you enjoy it. 👍

[Derka]

Small update, got her all back up and built as per the manual. Unfortunately the first test didn't go well with the SkyRC 13 turn brushless motor.l 🙈😁😂

 

The rear gear differential eat itself with the 80,000 oil in. I was kind of expecting this as the gear diff had a lot of shims in to get a close mesh, I could get it so it didn't chew itself but the mesh was too tight. Anything else and the differential slipped. 

 

Onto Associated's website and found the gear diff rebuild kit was discontinued and replaced with another part number which was also discontinued as a rebuild kit, but luckily you can buy the parts separately which is what I did. New casing and idler gear, new diff out drives and all new diff internals. 

 

While I was there I removed the front and rear short course bumpers. The rear will need to be cut unless I can fabricate a wheelie bar from the motor mount and rear bumper bars that also fit into the rear shock tower and supply the mounting point for the rear body posts. 

 

Some quick pictures of how it's looking now. You can see just how much narrowing the B5M front and rear arms are (approx 25-30mm) as the wheels tuck into the short course body. The wheels and tyres are just test wheels and of course a new drag inspired body will be fitted and most, if not all are require a narrower track width. 

 

 

Edited February 10, 2020 by Derka

[Derka]

The replacement diff parts arrived today, great speedy service from MB Models, as usual 👍

 

You can see the difference in the larger gears at how much of the teeth has ground down. Also took the opportunity to replace the out drives. 

 

Next update will be wheels or the body shell.

 

Not sure if it's the motor, ESC or radio but throttle response is pretty delayed. I'll look into playing with the punch setting, but then I am comparing this to a middle range setup on my race buggies, along with also been sensored. 

 

[YetiScore83]

This is looking great, I'm realky surprised the 2wd No prep drag scene has realky kicked off over here (yet)! 

 

I have been pulling parts together for a while, and hope to start my build this weekend. 

 

Keep up the good work and updates, awesome to see and learn from. 

[hawkesy2k8]

have you got a shell yet mate?

 

Got a Pro Mod C7 Shell for mine and its wide i dont think i will have to shorten arms much if at all, 

 

Going to start a build thread, hopefully get a R/C Drag section or No Prep section made up

[Derka]

Proline Octane shell arrived today. 

 

I have some different body mounts coming soon along with the ProLine drag wheel and tires. 

 

At the moment it looks like with the B5 arms fitted the track width is too narrow, I won't know for definite till I have the wheels fitted. 

 

Also looks like I need to extend the wheelbase a bit. 

 

[Derka]

Got the body mounted up. Needs a little adjustment but need the wheels and tires to finish that and then paint. 

 

One thing I'm fairly sure of is that this Proline Octane shell is a direct fit onto most short course trucks unlike some others that need the track width bringing in some. So I may need to refit the original SC10 arms back on!

 

That or just buy a Slash roller!!

 

Edited April 10, 2020 by Derka

[Oh How Original]

Liking that shell!

[Derka]

Just a little update on this, I'm now running an Associated SC6.1 kit and putting Associated B6 parts on it to narrow up the track width. Also handy as I race the B6 and B64 at a local club so a lot of part compatibility and tons of tuning adjustments. 

 

I had some spare electronics laying about so popped in a Savox LP 1251, Hobbywing Xerun v3.1 and a Reedy 6.5T. I plan to run on 2S shorty lipo. 

 

A quick snap while it was sat on the work bench. 

Edited April 30, 2020 by Derka

[.AJ.]

Very nice, I’m thinking about building one of these, but I’ll start with a buggy kit and then add a sc chassis and body mounts 👍 

[Derka]

A little update with some bits for a AE B6.1 fitted. 

 

- B6.1 Rear arms, V2 hubs and 65/67mm cva's to play about with bone plunge 🤯

- B6.1 Gull front tower and lower arms

- B6 buggy springs to get the lower ride height

- AE B6 48mm turnbuckles (6)

- B6 front and rear bumpers

 

Still needs to shake down and ride height for actually running it but awaiting two turnbuckles from Modelsport for the steering tie rods. 

 

[.AJ.]

I’ll be starting mine next week, I found a cheap B6.1 roller and I’ve ordered a SC6.1 chassis, rails, body mounts and a few other parts, plus a set of JConcepts  wheels and tyres, ohh and a nice trick wheelie bar from the US 👍 

[Derka]

Do you know which body you'll be going for?

 

I'm not sure if mine will need a wheely bar yet. I'm running the kit 3-gear laydown transmission so most of the weight is forward of the rear axle. I know on the rear motor trucks it's deffo needed. 

 

The jconcepts hotties are good! They do some nice bodies too.

[.AJ.]

Yea it’s Hotties I’ve got on the way, in Gold compound, they were the only ones I could find in the UK, plus a set of Startec wheels,,, body wise I’ll probably go for this 

 

https://www.dms-racing.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=37849&virtuemart_category_id=362
 

 

DMS have loads of suitable bodies tho, I won’t be ordering it for a few weeks, so depends what they still have instock then, luckily there’s a few others I like 👍 

[Chris Young]

What sort of speeds do these get upto?

[.AJ.]

On a 132ft track (scale 1/4 mile) just under 50mph on a 2s lipo, that’s if you stick to the basic rules

 

https://www.jphracing.com/No_Prep_RC_Drag_Racing.cfm

 

 

 

 

[Chris Young]

46 minutes ago, .AJ. said:

On a 132ft track (scale 1/4 mile) just under 50mph on a 2s lipo, that’s if you stick to the basic rules

 

https://www.jphracing.com/No_Prep_RC_Drag_Racing.cfm

 

 

 

 

Impressive so is there many’s clubs that do this sort of racing?

[Derka]

There a few different classes but on a no prep it's around 40-50mph on the scale 1/4 133ft with 2s. 

 

Prepped or street outlaws are running 60mph at the trap in around 2.1-2.5 seconds ET. 

 

[Derka]

Managed to get the electrics sorted and a few test runs before the rain.

 

Deffo need a 4 gear stand up transmission. With the kit 3 gear laydown the motor rotation raises the rear at launch so I hope the stand up transmission moving weight rearwards and the 4 gear affect pushing down I should get more grip as currently with the ESC punch setting turned all the way down there is not enough grip to need a wheelie bar!

 

[.AJ.]

I’m completely new to the B6, so you need the 4 gear gearbox from the og B6? I did also read that the 6.1 towers won’t  fit the 6 style gearbox either 
 

Found this with a parts list tho 

 

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associated/setupb6/B6D_4GearChassis/

[Derka]

This shows the bits needed direct from AE: https://img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10SC6.1/6.1-gearbox-configurations-04-2019.pdf

 

I've not added up all the bits but I'll take a better look on the computer later. I don't think you need a new shock tower though. 

 

Something I overlooked was ride height. I was around 8-10mm like an 'high' road car but apparently you're supposed to run 18-20 or arms level. This is important as the rear CVA's will want to straighten under power so that may also be lifting the rear up as the straighten. 

 

I'm personally not on FB but there are lots of groups you can glean for info.

[.AJ.]

I was looking on amain and guy this left this review of the b6 4 gear case 

 

Team Associated B6 Standup "4 Gear" Gearbox

This is not a bash on Amain hobbies. Team Associated made a mistake saying this transmission case will fit with all 6.1 platforms. It doesnt. The sc6.1 shock tower holes do not line up with the mounting holes in the gear case. The lower set of holes are wider than the upper set of holes. On the tower, the upper and lower holes are the same distance apart. Shame I spent money on this just to find out it doesnt fit.