Tug Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 Could be heat, try running without the shroud? See if it goes without cutting out. Have you fitted the big pinion? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumper Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 1 hour ago, Bladey said: I’m having an issue with the car at the moment, it’s happened 3 times now, I first thought it was out of range, then maybe the battery running out, the car from a distance has just stopped, the controller doesn’t work, but then maybe a minute or so later it starts working again, I’m now thinking it’s because it’s getting to hot and cutting out in safe mode, because when it starts working again there is still plenty of power in the battery, I have a dusty cover fitted, so wondering if this is keeping the heat in and helping to cause it to cut out, I have a yeah racing dual fan with heat sink coming, so I’m hoping this will keep it cooler and stop this from happening, or is there another issue I’m missing? Thnaks again 😊 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCD-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature-Infrared-Non-Contact-IR-Gun-Temp-Meter-UK/163683099963?hash=item261c45e53b:g:OGgAAOSwW3xc08ac these are pretty useful for seeing what the temps are, i wouldn't think it would overheat on the standard gearing. Maybe check some of the bearings along the driveline, if you have a few that are rough, it can create a lot of resistance at 40-50mph. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bladey Posted June 30, 2019 Author Share Posted June 30, 2019 Ok I’ll take the dust cover off see if that make any difference, and check the bearings, no still on standard gearing, what sort of temps would make it shut down, it does get pretty hot, I might get one of those guns, they aren’t much money and would be good to know, especially after I fit the yeah racing fans, be interesting how much cooler they make the motor 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bladey Posted June 30, 2019 Author Share Posted June 30, 2019 Taken it out again tonight, on the roads at an industrial estate, without the dust cover on, it did it again a few times, bearings seem ok, what sort of range do controllers have? this is really annoying, the car works great, but if I take it a bit of a distance away, the car just stops, throttle doesn’t work, but I think I could see the steering move, I would try the throttle a few times still nothing, then a few times more and it will start working again, plenty of life in the battery, as I bashed it around for another 10 mins at a shorter range with no issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 Does sound like a range issue more than a temp issue. Batteries in the Tx OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumper Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 3 hours ago, Bladey said: Ok I’ll take the dust cover off see if that make any difference, and check the bearings, no still on standard gearing, what sort of temps would make it shut down, it does get pretty hot, I might get one of those guns, they aren’t much money and would be good to know, especially after I fit the yeah racing fans, be interesting how much cooler they make the motor 👍 the esc will be set to shut down at 105c, that will probably be 80-90c on a temp gun like the one i linked, i dont think it will shut down if the motor gets too hot as it probably doesnt have a sensor in it, but you could make sure that is around 70-80c max. does sound more like a radio issue as tug said, i would also add, that if you are in an area near those moblie phone coverage towers, you can have very short range, there is a felid round here that is next to a phone tower and my range goes down to about 30 meters, so its not a good spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bladey Posted June 30, 2019 Author Share Posted June 30, 2019 I have all 3 lights showing on the controller, so I’m guessing the batteries are all good there, interesting what you say about the phone towers, I will have a look at the places I’ve had the issue, and see if there is one close by, thank you👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
namastebuzz Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 How is the Rx aerial on the car setup? It should be orientated the same way as in the controller - vertical. My Rustler did a similar thing for a while but mounting the aerial properly and sticking it up vertically improved things dramatically. Try it in a big open area away from sources of interference too, if possible. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bladey Posted July 2, 2019 Author Share Posted July 2, 2019 22 hours ago, namastebuzz said: How is the Rx aerial on the car setup? It should be orientated the same way as in the controller - vertical. My Rustler did a similar thing for a while but mounting the aerial properly and sticking it up vertically improved things dramatically. Try it in a big open area away from sources of interference too, if possible. Yes that’s in a nice verticle position, I’ll give it another blast in the field and see how it goes 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumper Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 5.22v is pretty lower actually Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
namastebuzz Posted July 3, 2019 Share Posted July 3, 2019 Quote 5.22v is pretty lower actually That's what I thought too but the FS-GT5 runs off only 4 AA batteries and the manual states "AA batteries >4.4V, 2S lithium battery >7.4V" so 5.22V is fine. You could fit a small 2S LiPo with a JST connector which would give a higher voltage but AFAIK 2.4Ghz radios have a regulated voltage so nothing changes until the supply voltage drops below the capability of the regulator and then all signals cease. I suppose the Lipo would give longer run time than the AAs and only need recharging at greater intervals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumper Posted July 3, 2019 Share Posted July 3, 2019 2 hours ago, namastebuzz said: That's what I thought too but the FS-GT5 runs off only 4 AA batteries and the manual states "AA batteries >4.4V, 2S lithium battery >7.4V" so 5.22V is fine. You could fit a small 2S LiPo with a JST connector which would give a higher voltage but AFAIK 2.4Ghz radios have a regulated voltage so nothing changes until the supply voltage drops below the capability of the regulator and then all signals cease. I suppose the Lipo would give longer run time than the AAs and only need recharging at greater intervals. it could still be the case that the range is much shorter at a voltage that lower, its only 1.3v per battery, normal AA batteries are 1.5v per battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bladey Posted July 3, 2019 Author Share Posted July 3, 2019 Interesting thought about the power of the controller, would it really make a difference? My yeah racing fans have turned up, so will fit those tomorrow, that should keep things a bit cooler 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumper Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 On 03/07/2019 at 20:47, Bladey said: Interesting thought about the power of the controller, would it really make a difference? My yeah racing fans have turned up, so will fit those tomorrow, that should keep things a bit cooler 😁 it does on some of my controllers and not others, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bladey Posted July 9, 2019 Author Share Posted July 9, 2019 So I took the Kraton back out to the recreation ground, big open space and it performed well, I would say the range was close to the 200m that it says in the spec's, so the issues I was experiencing before, must have been down to transmitter interference from mobile phone towers or security systems as you advised guys, thanks for the tip, as I didn't even take that in to consideration 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bladey Posted July 15, 2019 Author Share Posted July 15, 2019 So the Kraton is broken 😩 Bit disappointed as it wasn’t crashed, but I have no drive on the rear left wheel, so when I put the power down it pulls and wants to spin in a circle, everything from the outside looks fine, but when I turn the wheel, the drive shaft turns to the rear diff, but the centre drive shaft doesn’t, and it’s easy to spin round, where as the other side is harder to spin and the centre drive shaft turns, so I’m guessing something has gone inside the rear diff, any tips on the best way to get it opened up? Thanks 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kukynas Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 Plenty of YT videos of how to pull out the diff, shouldn’t take more than 15-20 minutes 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 Might just be a drive-pin, is there a rubber boot? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PH001 Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 Theres no rubber boot on the Kraton but you DEFO need to check the grub screw on the cup which connects the rear diff to the dogbone driveshaft. Sound like it’s come loose. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted July 18, 2019 Share Posted July 18, 2019 On 15/07/2019 at 11:06, Bladey said: ...so I’m guessing something has gone inside the rear diff, any tips on the best way to get it opened up? Thanks 😊 Dead easy. Video here... But as @PH001 states check the easy stuff first like the grub screw attaching the drive cups. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bladey Posted July 23, 2019 Author Share Posted July 23, 2019 So there it is guys, the big cog in the rear diff has broke in to 3 pieces, I have noticed a little chip on one of the small ones too, there maybe more, but difficult to see with the fluid, the bits were freely moving around in there, not very good considering it’s only been out half a dozen times, but there you go. My question is, do I replace the individual cogs, or would it be easier to replace the complete diff? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kukynas Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 If nothing else broken change the gears only and make sure to add shims, again plenty of YT videos of how to shim your diff, many brands are supplying repair kits so have alook at arrma diff spare parts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bladey Posted July 24, 2019 Author Share Posted July 24, 2019 Thanks guys 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 (edited) On 24/07/2019 at 20:57, Bladey said: Thanks guys 👍 Bladey hope this isn't too late but I have an un-used Typhon centre diff which AFAIK is the same as yours in the Kraton. I've just put it on eBay this afternoon and then read this. Will PM you now in case it is of interest. Edited July 25, 2019 by GMballistic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bladey Posted July 27, 2019 Author Share Posted July 27, 2019 On 25/07/2019 at 21:26, GMballistic said: Bladey hope this isn't too late but I have an un-used Typhon centre diff which AFAIK is the same as yours in the Kraton. I've just put it on eBay this afternoon and then read this. Will PM you now in case it is of interest. Only just seen this, thanks for letting me know, but I had already ordered the parts which came yesterday, thanks anyway 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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