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Trackstar 150 issue or motor??


Apperley73

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Just been out with berserker running 4000mah 3s on grass and honestly the throttle like a switch bogs down then full throttle! And it stopped after not even 5 mins run time is that normal for a 1\8th? And sometimes when u blip the throttle nothing happens then again its off like a crazed cat!! As this is my first time i need to get a program card and sort the punch out and what should be the cut off be for it?? 

Can't be running hot as can wasn't to bad to touch.

Is the motor shagged also am running stock rtr stuff bought it secondhand but not used alot.

Help need?

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Trackstar esc's are renowned for being finicky unfortunately.  Has it been calibrated to your radio gear?  Even if it has I'd re-do it.  4000mah won't give great run times on 3s, 5mins is a little low though - even if you we're nailing it full throttle from A to B.  Cut off may be coming in early - and low C batt's can dip below under load causing early LVC.  I mostly use Hobbywing ESC's now, and there LVC's are very conservative - so I run with them set to 3.2v/cell - even if I run to LVC even my lowest specced 40c lipos are above that when I check.  IIRC the chemistry of lipos change below 2.8v, I'd never run a cell intentionally that low though, 3.2v is a fair place to aim.  It'ss worth considering 4S too - 3S is v low for a truggy, if you went to 4S you could gear down to achieve similar speeds and thus get more run time.

 

Motor could be shagged - what is it, how old and what gearing? - they don't last forever but so long as it's not been cooked running hot they can last a long time.

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Motor the stock one that comes with turnigy 1450kv. I bought car off ebay looks like its never been used! Tell what its doing its cogging a no throttle then off it goes! I've not calibrated it to the tx but it is the same tx hk-gt2e that the guy was using, hope he not sold me a dude!!! Sorry to sound daft as ive not calibrated a car before how do you do it?? Its flashing red most of the time is that right? 

Maybe might be ok after cal and program card.

Am running 65c lipo it does kick ass on 3s am deffo getting 4s next.

Thanks for info as you can see the car next to new, 

20180422_111534.jpg

20180422_111200.jpg

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So its stopping after 5 mins motor is warm ish i try switch it on and off,once bk on esc stays on for maybe 15sec then goes off? Try this again and again same thing happens this was after 5 mins max with red light on esc flashing 

Edited by Apperley73
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So its stopping after 5 mins motor is warm ish i try switch it on and off,once bk on esc stays on for maybe 15sec then goes off? Try this again and again same thing happens this was after 5 mins max with red light on esc flashing 

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Thanks dude it's now calibrated and feels so much smoother.Am going to take it out tomorrow and see how i get on with it.

Least if the throttle response is working i can eliminate that issue and move to the motor.

If I've bought all most new how many faulty motor or esc come out factory can't be many....

 

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5 minutes ago, Apperley73 said:

Thanks dude it's now calibrated and feels so much smoother.Am going to take it out tomorrow and see how i get on with it.

Least if the throttle response is working i can eliminate that issue and move to the motor.

If I've bought all most new how many faulty motor or esc come out factory can't be many....

 

 

Very unlikely to be motor. How much did you pay for it all?

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Get the program card and sort the punch. Mine delayed trigger on setting 1.

3s in a 1/8th hmmmmm... I used to get 8 mins on 4s nailing a 1/8th, on grass though.

Sounds like LVC but normally they cut power first so you can crawl home.

LVC works on full voltage so 3s at 3.2v would be set at 9.6v but need the lcd programmer.

My 1/8 on 6s is set at 21.4v

 

I don't think your 3s lipo's have got the balls to be honest.

 

I have the Skyrc equivalent esc.

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Sorry to jump on the post, but I have the same esc that I bought second hand, I bought the program Card but it won't connect to the esc, 

I've read some horror stories about updating the firmware and it rendering the esc useless, anyone know? 

 

Mine is in a losi 8oght truggy, and my ouxnh is definitly set low as it is very slow off the mark and then goes off like mad, as long as you don't let go of the throttle completly it's fine but going from brake throttle is a bit slow to respond! 

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2 hours ago, Apperley73 said:

Payed £220 thought as the car at mo is £300+ and its like new plus postage.Reckon it be ok, coming from 10th scale underestimated the size and weight to chuck a truggy round need to go 6s

Maybe I sold mine too cheap lol

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Honestly, you guys need to throw out the rule book with this. The gearing and low Kv suggest 3s will be fine. On 4s mine (with a slighly higher kv motor) was absolutely insane. Far faster than my Tekno, Hyper and other Truggies ive owned on 4s. The Berserker on 4s was as fast as my Vorza on 6s. Its uniquely fast

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Well just took it out! First off what a blast it is lv it!

Run good for 5 mins then double throttle to get it moving again so deffo need the program card and need to see were cut off so can drop it to 3.2v 

 

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2 minutes ago, Apperley73 said:

Right ive brought it home and when i drag car along floor it locks up very hard to get wheels moving pinion/spur looks mega tight is this the issue??

Thanks mark.

 

Correct mesh should be easy on these - Mod1 gearing.  Adjust the motor so one tooth of the pinion sits between two teeth on the spur and can rock side to side slightly between those two teeth.  This pic shows a too tight mesh but this is how you need to aim for, only with a little side to side play when in this position:

 

 

Image result for gear mesh

 

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Did you do any jumps? With pretty much any 1/8th (my Teknos, RB One’s etc all did it) i found a hard landing can move the motor. Re-adjust the mesh (twist the motor away from the spur, its on a cam) and threadlock it tight. Easy fix. Thats all it is. 

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Thanks will do that??is that why the battery is draining so fast having to strain with it so tight.Didn't really jump it rough bouncy grass i was on.

 

Thanks for all the advise guys this place is a god send☺☺

Edited by Apperley73
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Imo 3s is just not enough voltage for a 1/8, whatever the gearing is...the inertia just from the weight alone must be on or just over the safe limit of capabilities on 3s, go to 4s would-be a good move

 

I found my wifes truggy much faster on 4s than 6s too, regardless of terrain....must be an optimum rpm/traction kind of situation, logic would dictate on 6s the rpm rollout at the wheels is just too high to gain traction....and when you do the nose points skywards so it's more of a nervous throttle finger!

 

I suppose there's a reason why the 1:1 drag guys don't like to spin the tyres off the line, the old 'if you're smoking....you ain't winning" adage

Edited by Fly In My Soup
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I found 5S to be my sweet spot for grass running - with a ~1800kv motor and standard truggy gearing.  

8 hours ago, Apperley73 said:

Thanks will do that??is that why the battery is draining so fast having to strain with it so tight.Didn't really jump it rough bouncy grass i was on.

 

Thanks for all the advise guys this place is a god send☺☺

 

It will affect run times yeas, as well as strain the esc with a risk it going pop.

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