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The Traxxas E-Revo 2.0 Thread


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3 hours ago, Guns said:

Different type of tyre. The SRCs are pants off road. Not really a big fan of them to be honest. The trenchers are a bit too big and heavy but work better. 

 

If you decided to move the SRC's on to recoup some funds please give me a shout.  I've other low profile off road MT wheels from the MK1 Hobao MTe - though even the diy belted ones aren't perfect.

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I got one simple rule, never buy a car with pivot ball arms, even if there’s 1000 people saying there’s nothing wrong with it I wont touch it, means E-revo and entire Arrma line’s out, not big fan of arrma anyway but many people are happy with them so different courses for different horses, if you plan to keep your x-mass don’t see a reason why you couldn’t go 1/10 scale route and buy something decent instead of half baken 1/8 😉

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18 minutes ago, Kukynas said:

I got one simple rule, never buy a car with pivot ball arms, even if there’s 1000 people saying there’s nothing wrong with it I wont touch it, means E-revo and entire Arrma line’s out, not big fan of arrma anyway but many people are happy with them so different courses for different horses, if you plan to keep your x-mass don’t see a reason why you couldn’t go 1/10 scale route and buy something decent instead of half baken 1/8 😉

What would you suggest as ‘decent’?

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10 minutes ago, Leo said:

@Guns can you screw the pillow balls into the arms any more? That would allow the bone to sit further into the cup. 

Theyre fully in trust me! I cant see how they come out even under full droop, must be a flex issue

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13 minutes ago, Guns said:

Theyre fully in trust me! I cant see how they come out even under full droop, must be a flex issue

Is it always the same one, or do both sides do it?

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Btw, by half baken I meant E-revo not entire 1:8 scale, just to be clear 😀

 

1 hour ago, Guns said:

What would you suggest as ‘decent’?

 

Depends how much you would be willing to spend

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2 hours ago, Guns said:

 

 

 

I'm now I two minds. Carry on with it or move on to pastures new?

 

Id say it’s time for pastures new you’ve given this a fair crack of the whip and your just not gelling with it.

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1 hour ago, mydoddy69 said:

 

Id say it’s time for pastures new you’ve given this a fair crack of the whip and your just not gelling with it.

There nothing though I've been looking. The Arrma's dont really do anything for me and are far from perfect it seems, and the MT410 will require X-maxx levels of investment. 

 

The winner at the moment is the Senton 6s..... but I'm guessing thats discontinued as its due a V4 update?

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40 minutes ago, Guns said:

There nothing though I've been looking. The Arrma's dont really do anything for me and are far from perfect it seems, and the MT410 will require X-maxx levels of investment. 

 

The winner at the moment is the Senton 6s..... but I'm guessing thats discontinued as its due a V4 update?

 More than likely all the others are on v4 

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3 hours ago, Kukynas said:

Btw, by half baken I meant E-revo not entire 1:8 scale, just to be clear 😀

 

 

Depends how much you would be willing to spend

 

Depends really. The budget isn't really an issue I suppose as if it come to it I could sell my E-Revo 2.0 or even use all the electrics. Just dont know whats out there? 

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12 hours ago, Guns said:

 

Depends really. The budget isn't really an issue I suppose as if it come to it I could sell my E-Revo 2.0 or even use all the electrics. Just dont know whats out there? 

 Why not just get a chassis /roller and build your own then you can have whatever you want ? 

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13 hours ago, Guns said:

Just dont know whats out there? 

 

As mydoddy sugested roler should be on your list, here is mine:

 

truggy/MT:

- Losi LST 3XL-E - needs alu wheel hubs and diffs need shimming otherwise robust car running without issues, limited by motor size, total price including upgrades around 700£ (Outside of UK)

- Rustler 4x4 VXL - 400£ + 200£ for upgrades (sooner or later) so expensive for 1/10 scale otherwise running fine

 

SCT/SC:

- TLR TEN-SCTE 3.0 race kit - some reported missing/wrong parts in their kit, otherwise should run without issues

- Losi Ford Raptor Baja Ray 1/10 - new concept SC, bad electronics as any other HH offerings these days, soft springs and soft tires for everyday bashing, otherwise without issues (so far)

 

Arrmas are considered best value for money, if you have nothing against their desing concept you should look into their offerings

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2 hours ago, Kukynas said:

 

As mydoddy sugested roler should be on your list, here is mine:

 

truggy/MT:

- Losi LST 3XL-E - needs alu wheel hubs and diffs need shimming otherwise robust car running without issues, limited by motor size, total price including upgrades around 700£ (Outside of UK)

- Rustler 4x4 VXL - 400£ + 200£ for upgrades (sooner or later) so expensive for 1/10 scale otherwise running fine

 

SCT/SC:

- TLR TEN-SCTE 3.0 race kit - some reported missing/wrong parts in their kit, otherwise should run without issues

- Losi Ford Raptor Baja Ray 1/10 - new concept SC, bad electronics as any other HH offerings these days, soft springs and soft tires for everyday bashing, otherwise without issues (so far)

 

Arrmas are considered best value for money, if you have nothing against their desing concept you should look into their offerings

I cant see how any of them are better than what I have. If anything theyre worse and old? I cant stand Losi’s apart from the 8ight TE, the Rustler 4x4 is a downgrade in every way as much as I am a fan of it. 

 

if i buy a roller itll mean selling the ERevo as a roller. I cant see past an Outcast V3 for £389 rtr at the mo

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1 hour ago, Guns said:

I cant see how any of them are better than what I have. If anything theyre worse and old? I cant stand Losi’s apart from the 8ight TE, the Rustler 4x4 is a downgrade in every way as much as I am a fan of it. 

 

if i buy a roller itll mean selling the ERevo as a roller. I cant see past an Outcast V3 for £389 rtr at the mo

 

Better is relative word and means different things to different people, for me better means I can go out, have a lots of fan and bring the car back home in full working condition, everything else is just matter of preferences and taste, same applies for upgrade/downgrade, downgrade in size might result in upgrade of quality and opposite

 

Choose what ever suits you best and help you get there without too much headache 👍

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16 minutes ago, Kukynas said:

 

Better is relative word and means different things to different people, for me better means I can go out, have a lots of fan and bring the car back home in full working condition, everything else is just matter of preferences and taste, same applies for upgrade/downgrade, downgrade in size might result in upgrade of quality and opposite

 

Choose what ever suits you best and help you get there without too much headache 👍

I agree with that, but the Rustler 4x4 is basically a Slash 4x4, which I love but they need a lot of upgrades. I did attempt to buy one of my old ones back however recently but the seller wouldn't let me buy it back haha

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Yep, it’s just truggy version of slash, don’t know which version you had prevoiusly but current version doesn’t need that much upgrades unless you plan to hit concrete bench in full speed like my wife 😂 

complete set (x4)of GTR shocks cost 100£, big bore shocks around 70£, motor heatsink and esc fan 20£ together, complete CVD shaft set including nylon c-hubs from tekno cost 60£ and servo around 15£, that’s it, I won’t be changing shafts untill they die and so far they hold pretty good, same with shocks, first I bought front set to change broken one, later back side, for sure you could buy it all cheaper if it’s for arrma or any other cheaper brand but that’s the payback for owning traxxas 😜

 

Well, compare it to your e-revo and tell me if it’s expensive or that the amount of upgrades is too high, and at the end of the day this one is at least running 😀

 

now take all those other cars I mentioned earlier and you’ll end up in the same situation, once you apply necessary upgrades they all running fine all day long, but I understand your point, if you don’t like specific brand than it’s pointless to talk about that

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2 hours ago, Kukynas said:

Yep, it’s just truggy version of slash, don’t know which version you had prevoiusly but current version doesn’t need that much upgrades unless you plan to hit concrete bench in full speed like my wife 😂 

complete set (x4)of GTR shocks cost 100£, big bore shocks around 70£, motor heatsink and esc fan 20£ together, complete CVD shaft set including nylon c-hubs from tekno cost 60£ and servo around 15£, that’s it, I won’t be changing shafts untill they die and so far they hold pretty good, same with shocks, first I bought front set to change broken one, later back side, for sure you could buy it all cheaper if it’s for arrma or any other cheaper brand but that’s the payback for owning traxxas 😜

 

Well, compare it to your e-revo and tell me if it’s expensive or that the amount of upgrades is too high, and at the end of the day this one is at least running 😀

 

now take all those other cars I mentioned earlier and you’ll end up in the same situation, once you apply necessary upgrades they all running fine all day long, but I understand your point, if you don’t like specific brand than it’s pointless to talk about that

TBH I think you need to upgrade the ESC/Motor in the Slash/Rustler 4x4, I used to go with a Kingheadz motor mount, Tekno centre shaft and then run 1/8th scale electrics. Good thing is though the stock ESC/Motor sell for good money on eBay so. I used to start with the Platinum edition so got the GTR shocks etc as standard

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Esc is good enough, motor should be also fine if heatsink is applied and if not I got couple of 3665 cans to try out, center shaft is aluminum in the latest version (same as platinum version) as standard so no issue there, but this thread is about your e-revo so I’ll shup up now 😂

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5 minutes ago, Kukynas said:

Esc is good enough, motor should be also fine if heatsink is applied and if not I got couple of 3665 cans to try out, center shaft is aluminum in the latest version (same as platinum version) as standard so no issue there, but this thread is about your e-revo so I’ll shup up now 😂

The stock centre shaft might as well be made of plastic, you'll bend it I'm sure ;)

 

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Still persevering! If this works, I'll treat her to a new shell and some Tubez once I work out the part numbers. IF it doesnt Ill sell it and go Arrma!

Managed to get 90mm straps which are longer than I wanted but I had a plan. Shout out to A-Main for getting them too me so fast! I only ordered one packet as I say I had a plan. I know they were too long but I decided to switch to Trenchers and to increase the ride height and run the straps like this. As you can see now at full droop with the wheels off the ground there is no chance of the dog bones coming out. IF they do now its Pillow ball related

 

6FL4Xzc.jpg

 

Ive mounted them like this, I need longer screws I know but ill order them once Ive worked out what size the stocks are. Running one strap for the rear over the brace gives a neater installation and a reduces the droop comnsdierably

iLW7kjr.jpg

 

At full droop with wheels suspended there's still lots of CVD in the cup

https://i.imgur.com/GhTq9rV.jpg

 

Same principle on front

 

iUsYB8n.jpg

 

Qx4thAJ.jpg

 

Anyone know the part numbers I need for the upgraded:

Push Rods 
Steering Turnbuckles
Rear Turnbuckles

Thanks
 

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3 hours ago, Guns said:

Still persevering! If this works, I'll treat her to a new shell and some Tubez once I work out the part numbers. IF it doesnt Ill sell it and go Arrma!

Managed to get 90mm straps which are longer than I wanted but I had a plan. Shout out to A-Main for getting them too me so fast! I only ordered one packet as I say I had a plan. I know they were too long but I decided to switch to Trenchers and to increase the ride height and run the straps like this. As you can see now at full droop with the wheels off the ground there is no chance of the dog bones coming out. IF they do now its Pillow ball related

 

6FL4Xzc.jpg

 

Ive mounted them like this, I need longer screws I know but ill order them once Ive worked out what size the stocks are. Running one strap for the rear over the brace gives a neater installation and a reduces the droop comnsdierably

iLW7kjr.jpg

 

At full droop with wheels suspended there's still lots of CVD in the cup

https://i.imgur.com/GhTq9rV.jpg

 

Same principle on front

 

iUsYB8n.jpg

 

Qx4thAJ.jpg

 

Anyone know the part numbers I need for the upgraded:

Push Rods 
Steering Turnbuckles
Rear Turnbuckles

Thanks
 

What’s ones you after? Traxxas do the alu ones in red and green part numbers

Toe links 8638 

push rods 8618

 

I have both and they do look cool, they look bulkier but lighter obviously, as to if they are the same strength hmmm I’m not sure! 

 

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