gezz1098 Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Hi all, I have an FTX brushed Carnage which I replaced the old ESC with a hobbywing quic run 1060 esc. The car will run amazing for a few minutes and will then will go into a limp mode.I then have to switch the car off and back on again and it works fine for another few minutes. It's running on the stock motor and a 4500 nihm battery. I sent back the esc as I thought it was faulty and was sent another new one but the same thing happens!! Any ideas?.....many thanks Phil Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Sounds like thermal cut off caused by too high an amp draw. Not sure what the amp draw is on the stock motor. I had something similar in another car when I fitted a hotter motor. But went away when I fitted a lower amp draw motor. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly In My Soup Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 +1 on thermal cut off go get a small ESC fan to mount to the heatsink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gezz1098 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 +1 on thermal cut off go get a small ESC fan to mount to the heatsinkThanks for your replies, this is the type of motor which is the stock motor.Are you saying that due to the speed of the motor it is making the esc run too hot and therefore causing thermal cut off? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 It's the combination of motor and gearing than can draw more amps than the ESC will handle. Since the same thing happened with the replacement pretty sure that's the problem especially as the 1060 is such a reliable ESC that just never seems to fail. You could always change to the 1080 but that's a fair bit more expensive. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghazghul Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Are you running stock wheels and gearing? Super long battery wires? How hot is the battery getting? Do you have a IR temperature monitor to check the ESC temp? 1060 specs say >12T 550 size, so 15T should be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gezz1098 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 Are you running stock wheels and gearing? Super long battery wires? How hot is the battery getting? Do you have a IR temperature monitor to check the ESC temp? 1060 specs say >12T 550 size, so 15T should be ok.Thanks for both your inputs!! The gearing is 65T spur and 17T pinion which is stock and the wheels are stock too.When I changed to this ESC the car has at least 15-20% more power compared to the stock FTX Esc.Would it be worth buying a esc fan first to see I that solves the issue? When I ran it today the esc feels super hot after it goes into cut out mode.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghazghul Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 2 hours ago, gezz1098 said: Thanks for both your inputs!! The gearing is 65T spur and 17T pinion which is stock and the wheels are stock too. When I changed to this ESC the car has at least 15-20% more power compared to the stock FTX Esc. Would it be worth buying a esc fan first to see I that solves the issue? When I ran it today the esc feels super hot after it goes into cut out mode. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk A fan would probably help increase time to cut out, but there might be an underlying cause for the heat. Someone else may know better but I'd be surprised if the ESC can't cope, the stock is only 20A and you are running NiMH which can't actually deliver than much current. With the motor out does it roll freely? Any binding at the axles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gezz1098 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 A fan would probably help increase time to cut out, but there might be an underlying cause for the heat. Someone else may know better but I'd be surprised if the ESC can't cope, the stock is only 20A and you are running NiMH which can't actually deliver than much current. With the motor out does it roll freely? Any binding at the axles?The motor is new and I have just re built the whole car as it was due a service and checked for binding when the car was built.Could it be the battery as it is around 2 years old now??The hobbywing 1080 is £45 so a fan might be the starting point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 Very suprised by this. Ive never seen a 1060 with any issues at all. They are usually bomb proof!Sent from my SM-G800F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gezz1098 Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 The motor is new and I have just re built the whole car as it was due a service and checked for binding when the car was built.Could it be the battery as it is around 2 years old now??The hobbywing 1080 is £45 so a fan might be the starting point. [emoji4]Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI don't think it's the esc causing the issue as it's the second 1060 I have had now. Unless it can't cope with a 550 15T motor with a 4500 nihm battery??Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 I would suspect something is binding somewhere. Try removing the motor and seeing if the car rolls easily. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly In My Soup Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 On 04/07/2017 at 23:26, gezz1098 said: The motor is new and I have just re built the whole car as it was due a service and checked for binding when the car was built. Could it be the battery as it is around 2 years old now?? The hobbywing 1080 is £45 so a fan might be the starting point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Well if your motor is new, theres no binding anywhere, then i would be tempted to say its a combination of three simple things.... 1. a cheap ESC with lots of internal resistance on the PCB, causing heat build 2. No fan on the esc to keep it below thermal shutdown temp. 3. The weather...Often overlooked. In East Devon it's topping out around 25°+, making my lads drx ve go into thermal shutdown when the shell is on within 5-10 minutes (60a team Orion r10 sport , rebadged hobbyking/wing) Once again, there was no fan in action after it packed up. Ran it with shell off, plastic stone gaurd off and had no issues, took an absolute pasting in the heat and was ok... I've since retro fitted a Fastrax super cooler to the ESC so he can run it with the shell on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gezz1098 Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 Well if your motor is new, theres no binding anywhere, then i would be tempted to say its a combination of three simple things.... 1. a cheap ESC with lots of internal resistance on the PCB, causing heat build 2. No fan on the esc to keep it below thermal shutdown temp. 3. The weather...Often overlooked. In East Devon it's topping out around 25°+, making my lads drx ve go into thermal shutdown when the shell is on within 5-10 minutes (60a team Orion r10 sport , rebadged hobbyking/wing) Once again, there was no fan in action after it packed up. Ran it with shell off, plastic stone gaurd off and had no issues, took an absolute pasting in the heat and was ok... I've since retro fitted a Fastrax super cooler to the ESC so he can run it with the shell onHey, thanks for the info, I will run it today without the shell on and see if it shuts down, if it doesn't then I will get a fan for it.Any ideas how to mount the fan to the esc as there are no mounting points Many thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly In My Soup Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 Many esc's use m2 threaded bolts to screw into the space between your heatsinks fins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertberr Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 Do you have to remove that Fastrax super cooler before use, or can you leave it on and working so to speak? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly In My Soup Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 I can just leave it on. At the moment its powered through the balance tap on my lipo, as it's a 12v fan. Although i have used it on my son's hsp Savagery on the motor can itself, whilst running. Many say its too effective but i found it took the motor temp from quite warm to ambient temperature and kept it there very nicely, but that was running from the Rx at 5v. You can also use them for their intended purpose, to cool a motor down to sub zero before a run, to elay the effects of heat soak power loss of the motor during a race. It's connected to the esc's heatsink via a pad of thermal paste silicone, i obviously had to make up a bracket as it dwarfs the little poop nugget 60a team Orion ESC This is only temporary.... The temp gauge said its 29° here in e.devon today, so this is just to enable my lad to run his car with the shell on...Until his new ESC arrives Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gezz1098 Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 I can just leave it on. At the moment its powered through the balance tap on my lipo, as it's a 12v fan. Although i have used it on my son's hsp Savagery on the motor can itself, whilst running. Many say its too effective but i found it took the motor temp from quite warm to ambient temperature and kept it there very nicely, but that was running from the Rx at 5v. You can also use them for their intended purpose, to cool a motor down to sub zero before a run, to elay the effects of heat soak power loss of the motor during a race. It's connected to the esc's heatsink via a pad of thermal paste silicone, i obviously had to make up a bracket as it dwarfs the little poop nugget 60a team Orion ESC This is only temporary.... The temp gauge said its 29° here in e.devon today, so this is just to enable my lad to run his car with the shell on...Until his new ESC arrives Ok so I have checked that everything moves freely and it does.I have also bought a fan which is now on the esc but the car is still cutting out after a few minutes!!!Not sure what else to try now apart from buying a night amp esc????Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly In My Soup Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Dude that sucks, try swapping out your motor with a proper can. A lot of the old reedy,yokomo,Schumacher brushed cans are sold on eBay. You can pick them up for a few quid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly In My Soup Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Could si.ply be a confidential failure of both ESC's. Although I'm assuming that it works ok up until it cuts out?? Then if you leave it for a while then turn it back on, is it ok again for a brief period until it cuts out? Is the ESC hot to the touch when it cuts out?? Have you tried it with A 2s lipo? Do these have a programmable Low.Voltage.Cutout?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Never known a 1060 to fail, let alone two. They're incredibly reliable. Some have been running an FTX Outllaw that had the same motor with no problems. Must be a dodgy motor.. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly In My Soup Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 25 minutes ago, Fly In My Soup said: Dude that sucks, try swapping out your motor with a proper can. A lot of the old reedy,yokomo,Schumacher brushed cans are sold on eBay. You can pick them up for a few quid. 1 minute ago, johninderby said: Never known a 1060 to fail, let alone two. They're incredibly reliable. Some have been running an FTX Outllaw that had the same motor with no problems. Must be a dodgy motor.. John That would be my first go to after the ESC aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gezz1098 Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 That would be my first go to after the ESC aswell What would happen is the car will run for about 3min and then cut down to half power.I would then switch it straight off and back on again and would have full power.The esc is not always hot after this happens.I have a spare motor so will try that and see if it's a dodgy motor.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gezz1098 Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 What would happen is the car will run for about 3min and then cut down to half power.I would then switch it straight off and back on again and would have full power.The esc is not always hot after this happens.I have a spare motor so will try that and see if it's a dodgy motor.Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAlso I have just read the manual and it says that if the voltage is lower than 4.5v for more than 2 seconds it will go into protection mode. Is it possible that my battery could have a fault cause temporarily loss of power making the esc go into protection mode? The battery is 2 years old.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 (edited) Very possible. Maybe get a LiPo to try out. Assume you have got the jumpers on the ESC set to NiMh? John Edited July 11, 2017 by johninderby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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