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Disappointing move to LiPo


valve90210

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I run my Brushed Wraith on 3s, Brushed SCX10 on 2s, and my Twin Brushed Clod Buster on 2s. All with no problems. I didn't break any of the motors in either.

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Think you need to get a new motor and then setup correctly i.e if it's running too hot after a couple of minutes then there is a problem don't let cool then run again. Get yourself and ir temp gun. Many many people/models run lipo on brushed setups with issue so don't think lipo is the issue here.

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On 12/03/2017 at 08:04, Shokka said:

I used a lipo with my standard brushed 15t firestorm motor and ESC. Barely any heat in the motor and the esc was very cool. That was with a 4000mah 2s 30c lipo.

 

 

 

On 12/03/2017 at 08:38, capri-boy said:

Slipper loosened itself off maybe?  Outside air temp a factor - we've had a really warm week my way - temps near 10 degrees up.

 

I guess this could have been part of the issue, I've since reset it, so hopefully ok now

 

On 12/03/2017 at 08:39, bieomax said:

Had you run in your motor? I managed to kill my first ftx outlaws 550 15t motor on lipo as i didnt run it in properly. The second motor i did the 10mins in water bath and this one seems much cooler running

 

I had run the motor in for a good few minutes running it slowly using the throttle trim as suggested by others on here. 

 

On 12/03/2017 at 08:50, stretch said:

I run 2s in my firestorm with sc15 es and firebolt motor without issue.

 

With any change in setup you need to run for a few minutes then check temperatures if OK run for few minutes and check again. If it is running hot setup needs to be checked for issues I. E not just let cool down and then run again as that's when things will die. 

 

What terrain you running on?

 

I was running on concrete for the most part, with a little driving over grass verges.

 

On 12/03/2017 at 10:09, Noj said:

Run many 15t firebolt cans on 2s with no issues myself....

 

I've seen this sort of thing mentioned a good few times re 15t motors (including in this thread!)

 

16 hours ago, m4inbrain said:

 

Monster Trucks are meant to wheelie, that's why most of them come with a wheelie bar out of the box or have aftermarket ones.

 

If you don't want your vehicle to constantly wheelie, don't give full throttle :)

 

Wondering why you're disappointed in LiPos though, because you say yourself, people did it to theirs and it "made them lively". If yours did the exact opposite, a faulty or damaged can would be my first thing to blame, not the thing that everyone runs in their RC no problem. 

 

 

True, this is only really a monster truck in name, it's far more like a stadium truck in reality.

 

I wasn't so much blaming the Lipo as just having been disappointed with the results. I've been running the 18t motor with the Lipo, and although it's getting hotter than it did in my other car with the nimh it is certainly lively!!

 

10 hours ago, stonedef said:

On my Amp MT I run a 550 15t Redcat motor, 83t spur, 25t pinion, Hobbywing 1060 esc and a Floureon 5200mah 30c lipo and have no problems with temps and get 45-60 mins run time. I did water break in the motor so that may have helped.

 

 

 

I'm guessing your gearing must have quite an influence on the temps though I'm struggling to get my head round gearing really.

 

1 hour ago, Noj said:

^^ that.

 

Brushed King Blackfoots, 15t cans, 4200mah 2s, 40 mins plus, pack after pack.

 

Suggests that the can is the issue here, not the move to lipo......

 

I'm going to keep an eye on the temps of my 18t while using the Lipo and go from there I think. Depending on what I see I might have to look at changing the gearing a little though that confuses me a bit as the more I've read the more confusing it's all become...lol

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Quote

I'm guessing your gearing must have quite an influence on the temps though I'm struggling to get my head round gearing really.

 

It's pretty much the biggest influence on temperatures. You can blow up any RC with overgearing/undergearing. Either it runs constantly on the rpm limit, or it runs hot because it constantly starts driving "in fourth gear". 

 

Quote

I wasn't so much blaming the Lipo as just having been disappointed with the results. I've been running the 18t motor with the Lipo, and although it's getting hotter than it did in my other car with the nimh it is certainly lively!!

 

Well it would get hotter, yes - there's more power available (as in, electricity). If you're uncomfortable with the temperatures it's reaching, take a tooth out of your pinion gear. Not physically, get a pinion with a tooth less. That brings down temperatures a bit. Try running it with that pinion, if it doesn't work, go one less. Keep in mind, with that you also reduce top end speed, but increase lower end torque. I found this quite helpful.

 

http://site.petitrc.com/Tech/UnderstandGearingRatio/

 

That should give you a base understanding on how things work. It did for me anyway.

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I'm definitely going to give the gearing a try but I'm struggling to find a pinion gear set that would give me enough options. Most seem to be in the 20 tooth range, ideally I'm looking for something like 15t to 20t or so but can't find any sets (well actually no that'd not true, hobbyking have a set but it's out of stock.. Grrr) 

 

Can anyone point me in the right direction for a decent set? 

Edited by valve90210
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6 hours ago, valve90210 said:

I'm definitely going to give the gearing a try but I'm struggling to find a pinion gear set that would give me enough options. Most seem to be in the 20 tooth range, ideally I'm looking for something like 15t to 20t or so but can't find any sets (well actually no that'd not true, hobbyking have a set but it's out of stock.. Grrr) 

 

Can anyone point me in the right direction for a decent set? 

Don't feel you have to get sets. Have a look at these, they're run/recommended by many here.

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-pinion-gears/rc-car-manufacturers/48/9920/992050

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