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FTX Outlaw Owners


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2 hours ago, ADH66 said:

Isn't a sensored set up the answer per John's previous posts and images? Defo considering that for my stock brushless. As a noob I'm unsure about the effects on the rest of the drive train etc but I'm picking up that brushed gives better low speed performance, brushless better high speed and sensored is combo.

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Partly,  with this car I've found the standard sensorless 2950kv 4 pole motor on 2s is spot on, to the point where the standard tyres balloon to pointiness !! Very minimal cogging, wheelies on demand, good enough low speed control, yes it won't creep along, but then for me finesses ain't what this car is about.

 

I've tried Speed Passion combo's in it, first a 10.5T set up that was just too insane, then a 13.5T one that was ok,maybe a touch to much rpm but the main issue was I had to turn the punch down to stop the diff gears skipping. They are torquey motors.

 

Also it depends on where you run, ie most sensored systems aren't the best idea in sandy, dusty or wet conditions. Saying that there are waterproof sensored systems or diy waterproofing is an option.

 

 

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Seems there isn't one solution, which is why more than one car is the norm..... Haha. Cursed hobby #shakesfist

I'll prob leave mine (stock brushless) alone, it runs at walking pace happy enough which is slow enough for my right now. Im a believer that most obstacles are solved by big wheels and enthusiasm (joking, if any dedicated crawler finds that naive).

It gets dusty and mucky regularly so anything sensitive to getting dirty isn't gonna work for me.

And I like her pawing the air like a puppy chasing a fly.

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Sorted the pinion issue last night, set it to a 21t pinion with it only been a ~2100kv motor, but have a new issue now is that i dont think the motor is playing well with the esc as on the very initial set up its lovely and smooth but then soon starts to cog.

Ive tried a few sensor cables and its doing the same, so it seems something is causing the esc (hobbywing sct pro 120a) to switch into sensorless mode.

I'll try the other esc i've got (tsky 120a) so see if its just the HW not liking the motor, as when i used the motor in the schumacher sst with the tsky it was fine, but then i'm putting more force/pressure on this old speed passion sealed 17.5t motor in the outlaw.

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1 hour ago, bieomax said:

Sorted the pinion issue last night, set it to a 21t pinion with it only been a ~2100kv motor, but have a new issue now is that i dont think the motor is playing well with the esc as on the very initial set up its lovely and smooth but then soon starts to cog.

Ive tried a few sensor cables and its doing the same, so it seems something is causing the esc (hobbywing sct pro 120a) to switch into sensorless mode.

I'll try the other esc i've got (tsky 120a) so see if its just the HW not liking the motor, as when i used the motor in the schumacher sst with the tsky it was fine, but then i'm putting more force/pressure on this old speed passion sealed 17.5t motor in the outlaw.

Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk
 

 

Unlucky mate, I use the TSky 120Amp esc's in various RC's. They've all been great but the latest batch I've bought though don't seem to like fully charged 3S batteries. The fans have a 12v ceiling which is fine, but I think my 3S batteries must be just over that so after a few moments the fan stops :ack:  I've emailed the seller explaining this, hoping they'll get back to me over it with some alternative fans.

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Good evening guys. Got some more issues here with the Outlaw brushless. First of all, for some reason the front right wheel is slightly turned which makes the whole car move right. I tried adjusting the bars connecting the wheel with the rest of the car but nothing. In fact i noted that the mechanism housing the ball bearings is slightly turned. Secondly, whenever i run the car at top speed some of the wheel lock nuts loosen up a bit and i have to re-screw them. Finally, the servo seems to have a problem or needs cleaning. When i turn left it is like it freezes for 1 second in the middle of the turning and then creaks and turns as it should :S

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4 minutes ago, westerlycarrot9 said:

Good evening guys. Got some more issues here with the Outlaw brushless. First of all, for some reason the front right wheel is slightly turned which makes the whole car move right. I tried adjusting the bars connecting the wheel with the rest of the car but nothing. In fact i noted that the mechanism housing the ball bearings is slightly turned. Secondly, whenever i run the car at top speed some of the wheel lock nuts loosen up a bit and i have to re-screw them. Finally, the servo seems to have a problem or needs cleaning. When i turn left it is like it freezes for 1 second in the middle of the turning and then creaks and turns as it should :S

 

Evening! Sounds like your tracking needs some attention on the front right wheel to help straighten things up. It can be adjusted using the steering arm. If you were to remove the servo horn, set the servo (a new one!) to centre on your controller and refit your servo horn onto the spline shaft in the centre of the throw (180 degrees scope)  as best you can. If the wheels are pointing in any direction other than forwards then adjust the steering arms or the shorter servo arm after the horn. 

And the grinding sound means unfortunately your servo is shot. Most upgrade to a metal geared servo with a higher torque rating. Something over 10, 13kg is suffice. I bought a Turnigy 17kg servo for it, but it started behaving quite odd so I've changed that out for something else. Plenty of other options on the market! 

 

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7 hours ago, t2boats said:

 

Evening! Sounds like your tracking needs some attention on the front right wheel to help straighten things up. It can be adjusted using the steering arm. If you were to remove the servo horn, set the servo (a new one!) to centre on your controller and refit your servo horn onto the spline shaft in the centre of the throw (180 degrees scope)  as best you can. If the wheels are pointing in any direction other than forwards then adjust the steering arms or the shorter servo arm after the horn. 

And the grinding sound means unfortunately your servo is shot. Most upgrade to a metal geared servo with a higher torque rating. Something over 10, 13kg is suffice. I bought a Turnigy 17kg servo for it, but it started behaving quite odd so I've changed that out for something else. Plenty of other options on the market! 

 

I actually watched a video on Youtube on how to centre your wheels by adjusting the servo horn but i was too afraid to do it :P Hm it's too soon for it to go down isn't it? :( In fact what is happening is that the left steering arm when turned is a bit loosen up whereas the right one isn't.

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32 minutes ago, westerlycarrot9 said:

I actually watched a video on Youtube on how to centre your wheels by adjusting the servo horn but i was too afraid to do it :P Hm it's too soon for it to go down isn't it? :( In fact what is happening is that the left steering arm when turned is a bit loosen up whereas the right one isn't.

 

Yeah unfortunately they don't last long with them being plastic geared and controlling big tyres plus they're a really low kg rating. Only takes a bang or two at speed which goes against the servo and that's it, game over :huh: 

Are you able to post up a pic or two of the problem, and show both sides as a comparison?

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2 hours ago, t2boats said:

 

Yeah unfortunately they don't last long with them being plastic geared and controlling big tyres plus they're a really low kg rating. Only takes a bang or two at speed which goes against the servo and that's it, game over :huh: 

Are you able to post up a pic or two of the problem, and show both sides as a comparison?

I'll actually get some photos and a video so that you can hear the sound it makes. What about the lock nuts that i wrote about? Do you think it's the lock nuts' fault?

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42 minutes ago, Isle of Wight Basher said:

With nyloc type nuts the more often they're removed and refitted the less well the nyloc insert works, either new nuts or a drop of blue threadlock will help

 

However I prefer to use serrated flanged nuts, not lost one yet. 

 

 

s-l300.jpg

I see. I still use the nylon ones that came with the car but i guess i'll have to upgrade them.

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4 hours ago, johninderby said:

With the stock servo it's not if it will fail but when it will fail. It's just not up to the job but as mentioned it's a cheap and easy fix.

 

          John

If the servo proves to be problematic could i just change the gears and not the whole thing? I figure it'll be a bit expensive to get a new one.

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Well it seems that after i disconnected the servo horn in order to center the wheels the creak sound has stopped :S Now i have only to deal with that turned right front wheel. For some reason when i have the trim adjustment on the controller up to 6 i believe it goes straighter than when at 0 :D 

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11 minutes ago, ADH66 said:

You guys just talked me into that Turnigy, John. Prob rude not to add some new blue bits to the steering while it's on the bench right?

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Always happy to help someone else spend their money. :D

 

             John

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