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FTX Outlaw Owners


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Let me see........

 

Repairs:

 

3rd set of pinion and spur gear (now using the metal ones recomended in this thread)

about 5 sets of rear drive shaft (had terrible luck with metal ones destroying themselves)

both front side drive shafts

front shock burst

basically all of the rear suspension broke and replaced with alloy parts inlcuding the rear sway bar twice

rear diff housing snapped

steering servo "e-clip"

various grub screws dislodged, mainly on the driveshaft

main chassis broke where it conencts to the trailing arm chassis mounts,  and replaced with aluminmium one

foam in original wheels disintergrated to ****, so new set of wheels

 

Upgraded:

Servo

Motor heat sink

 

In all honesty there is probably more to go on that list I have forgotten about.

 

EDIT: I will add below when I think of more:

 

Rear diff shaft broke and replaced

 

 

 

Edited by BUDFORCE
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What run runtime you getting on the 3660 motor, i got 20min from a 7000mha 2s on the axe and stock gearing, pretty poor considering i get usally get 3 hours out of the same battery on the lads truck.
Axe has come out, probs will go back to my old transmission, less torque twist, more power & much much longer run time.

Put some new shoes on his truck and new foams in the front. Running the gmade beadlocks, they hold onto RC4WD Rock Crusher H/T and Traxxas 2.2 Canyons air tight, just the way i like it, no worry about wet foams.
The proline 2 stage foams wont fit, but putting taking off the 2nd stage and replacing it with a 1/8th buggy foam they are a very tight but workable fit on the Rock Crushers.
They have 0 side wall roll now, the Canyons do side roll somewhat but hes yet to manage to roll it.
The rear tires are also slightly smaller than the front tires to overdrive the front a little to make it handle better.

IMG_20210704_191913.jpg

Edited by Redback
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20 hours ago, Redback said:

Put some new shoes on his truck and new foams in the front. Running the gmade beadlocks, they hold onto RC4WD Rock Crusher H/T and Traxxas 2.2 Canyons air tight, just the way i like it, no worry about wet foams.
The proline 2 stage foams wont fit, but putting taking off the 2nd stage and replacing it with a 1/8th buggy foam they are a very tight but workable fit on the Rock Crushers.
They have 0 side wall roll now, the Canyons do side roll somewhat but hes yet to manage to roll it.
The rear tires are also slightly smaller than the front tires to overdrive the front a little to make it handle better.

Looking good 😎👌

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@walkbythesea How did you stop the sway bar bending, this was 30 sec into a test.

The steel is like rubber, the arms seem ok but that rear bar is just to thin at the ends, did you use the stock metal sway bar?

IMG_20210705_202136.thumb.jpg.2234302e732b6933a92f973eec04112b.jpg

 

I don't buy ebay / cheap aftermarket stuff and this is my first experience doing so... it hasnt been a positive one, should i be surprised?

Edited by Redback
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Honestly I decided to live with it until it lets go and then just change the rod for something better - the arms themselves are absolutely brilliant and to be fair it’s not let go yet no matter what I’ve thrown at it

Edited by walkbythesea
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maybe as im running full plastic rear its just to flexy, if i kept it bent i would have snapped, doesnt improve performance imo, but i have gone back to the little hobbywing combo for some speed and to really test the metal spur.
and it always got its rear wheel in the air when breaking and flips on its roof when punching it.
mad speed tho with the big wheels that double in size at 50% throttle things shifting.
heard some grinding when launching on the road, wondering if the diffs let go as i think im still running with no diff E clip as it vaporized at some point 😂

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19 minutes ago, Redback said:

maybe its the giant wheels, it doesnt roll when cornering but never did with them, it flips more when punching it so i guess you can say its balancing the power at the back better rather than torque twisting.
 

It’s definitely the torque twist that it tames

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@Iain .R I understand you're Zorroing your outlaw, can you please measure and advise the size of the zorro body shell. Im wondering its length and width, im guessing its not wide enough to fit over a hyper 7.
@walkbythesea I dont as i crawl with this normally the front sway bar would affect its articulation to much, i wanted a better swaybar at the back to cope with the torque twist but its just an Outlaw life for us 😄

 

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Just now, walkbythesea said:

That steel spur is noisy 🤘😎

Not sure as the grinding at the start i thinks the rear diff spur slipping on the shaft, the grinding when breaking is the front wheels rubbing on the body, the drive train is pretty quiet imo vs my the crawled outlaw and the plastic spur one the axe was far noisier in the grass.

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you please measure and advise the size of the zorro body shell. Im wondering its length and width, im guessing its not wide enough to fit over a hyper

 

 

from boot to bonnet  from underneath 

500 or 19 1/2 inch length the car 

front left wing to right wing  280  or 11 inch

rear left wing to rear right wing 290 or 11. 1/2 inch  width of the car 

from floor to roof 160 or 6 .1/4 inch  hight of car 

left rear arch to front arch (where the door would be )190 or 7 .1/2 space between the two wheels 

rear wheel space 130 or 5. 1/2 inch

 

 

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Well bashing my outlaw to day 3 1/2 batterys later it start to get bit difficult to control   as it like one wheel is driving all the power   then I spotted it was when I wheeled spinned off on the dirt track only two wheels (back ones ) spin  then the left  ( I think lol ) was doing all the power . So had a quick look there no drive to the front wheels  the back wheels still have drive  but  nothing on the front .   

 

Any ideas   as I juat got in and bit nacked  to strip it down  so before I do tomorrow   any thoughts .  

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4 minutes ago, Iain .R said:

Well bashing my outlaw to day 3 1/2 batterys later it start to get bit difficult to control   as it like one wheel is driving all the power   then I spotted it was when I wheeled spinned off on the dirt track only two wheels (back ones ) spin  then the left  ( I think lol ) was doing all the power . So had a quick look there no drive to the front wheels  the back wheels still have drive  but  nothing on the front .   

 

Any ideas   as I juat got in and bit nacked  to strip it down  so before I do tomorrow   any thoughts .  

The grub screws that hold the drive cups from the gear case forward come undone, the drive cups themselves wear out and let go, after that you’re into the front diff case, either the ring gear for the diff, the pinion bust, or lastly the spider gears inside it, in order of likelihood. 

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2 hours ago, walkbythesea said:

The grub screws that hold the drive cups from the gear case forward come undone, the drive cups themselves wear out and let go, after that you’re into the front diff case, either the ring gear for the diff, the pinion bust, or lastly the spider gears inside it, in order of likelihood. 

My man your fantastic   you just just reminded me what happend a few weeks ago I had the same thing   (might have posted it on here  as I stripped it all down only to see the screw come loose )  an for the life of me I could not remember what it was   cheers m8 

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