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FTX Outlaw Owners


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18 hours ago, enduroexpert said:

 

Hello

 

Just wandered if anyone has ever fit a cooling fan to a quicrun 1060 ESC.....

 

Was thinking this may fit https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-xerun-competition-fan-2510sh-5v016a-for-2s-385873 but not sure how it would attach other than the possibility a couple of the screws could fit between the cooling strips, doesn't seem ideal though.

 

Any thoughts much appreciated, or even a photo of what you have done with anything similar.

 

Cheers

Johnny

Why would anyone ever need to? 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 30/08/2021 at 20:20, walkbythesea said:

Handles speed much better on GRP’s, but now it needs gearing up to counter their small size…

1FCE382A-A5F4-4B80-91D2-F685F47CA07D.jpeg


Throw a 21t in there and it should go a bit faster. Did you lock the diffs.
This is the result of a little bash on the beach / dunes with locked diffs.

IMG_20210903_145103.thumb.jpg.5da34f4f76b294929d79c1433ff809ba.jpg

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35 minutes ago, Redback said:

Throw a 21t in there and it should go a bit faster. Did you lock the diffs.

Still using a standard gearbox so a 23t is going in, hoping the SCT will be torquey enough to not complain about it too much. 
 

Will be locking the rear diff but not the front. 

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  • 1 month later...

This thread has been a bit quiet of late 🙂.

My bone stock brushed Outlaw got an outing at the weekend, rolling round my back garden in the hands of my 7yr old.

He'd been running  his Tamiya Dual Hunter but quickly wanted to swap over once he saw the Outlaw in action.

DSC_1810.jpg

I was really impressed with his throttle control in the small area but eventually there were a few  coming togethers with the DH.

We finished with batteries (Nimhs) depleted and both cars still in a working condition.

The motor and battery in the Outlaw were VERY hot at the end of the session but it just won't die.

 

Edited by Badcrumble
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  • 3 weeks later...

Need help.

 

Whats the easiest way to get access to replace the front suspension holder? Plastic one cracked after a collision and bought the cool blue aluminium upgrade. However, I'm a complete noob with RC cars and generally not that confident with DIY. Looking at the underside it looks really tucked away but im hoping (perhaps optimistically) that theres some way to access without me taking it into many bits which I'll probably not be able to reassemble later.

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2 hours ago, Jimbolina said:

Need help.

 

Whats the easiest way to get access to replace the front suspension holder? Plastic one cracked after a collision and bought the cool blue aluminium upgrade. However, I'm a complete noob with RC cars and generally not that confident with DIY. Looking at the underside it looks really tucked away but im hoping (perhaps optimistically) that theres some way to access without me taking it into many bits which I'll probably not be able to reassemble later.

 

Whilst I cant help you directly, if you are not confident/new to this kind of thing I can give you some tips.

 

  • Make sure you have quality heads for your screwdriver, or whatever you use to undo the bolts.
  •  
  • Dont use too much torque when tightening them up again, they are only little bolts, you will quite easily damage them doing them too tight.
  •  
  • Get a tray or something to put the bolts in as you go when taking them out so you dont loose them
  •  
  • Take plenty of photos with your smart phone when taking it apart, step by step almost, but also try to remember yourself, so you can remember how it all goes back together
  •  
  • Dont rush and plan more time then you think it'll take.
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Since I upgraded to brushless 2s there’s too much power going through the wheels to get traction off-road. 
 

Anyone recommend some good wider wheels and tyres?

 

I might add. After buying the thing 3 weeks ago it’s broken every time it’s been taken out. Now has the aluminium chassis and front suspension, as well as a 3200kv brushless setup from Hobbyking, it’s starting to feel like the car it should have been from the start. Starting to really like it although would have been cheaper to just buy another Arrma by the time I’ve finished. 😂😭

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When I started this I said the very same thing m8 I worried about how I was going to fix these part that was broken. Snapped  but I just sat down (as said above good tools ) and take it apart and if your not sure take a photo and I'll tell you give it a few weeks you be stripping these down like been doing it for years .. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi I am new to the outlaw as recieved it yesterday, will not be using as a crawler so I was wondering if someone could share pictures of the best setting of the mounts for the rear sway bar and also front and rear suspension position as mine is completely stock until I can can new parts in the new year, also what shock oil do people recommend for the front shocks as they are way too spongy, thanks

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Hi I swapped my shocks on one outlaw and on the other put in 500 or 50 cant remember which one now  binned the bottle so cant check .as it now holds better . 

As for the back I swapped the sway bars and put shocks one one which helped  if you look back on some the post you see what I did . 

 

Iv been using.mine about once a week for ages now and had no problems or brakeages    ooo crap iv jinked it now 

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HELP!! recieved my brushed outlaw yesterday, used for about 2 mins at low speeds, now it just stutters and will not move, not at all sure what the problem is but have contacted the store I got it from and explained the issue so waiting for a call back, I'm hoping someone here can help me to get it moving again and it's just my own error maybe

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58 minutes ago, Upinsmoke1977 said:

HELP!! recieved my brushed outlaw yesterday, used for about 2 mins at low speeds, now it just stutters and will not move, not at all sure what the problem is but have contacted the store I got it from and explained the issue so waiting for a call back, I'm hoping someone here can help me to get it moving again and it's just my own error maybe

Tighten the grub screws on the transmission outputs, you will need some threadlock.
If thats not the issue its the spur gear has thrown its pin and will have chewed up the transmission spur gear, this happens often dont replace it with a stock one it will just go again, get the RW racing Acetel one along with a steel pinion whilst your at it, the brass one is garbage.
Going full pelt to full reverse will make the transmission flex throwing the pin, try and be a bit easier on the breaking, also keep in mind outlaws eat motors, dont run it through long grass or up hills or your motor will cook and last 15min.

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Hi guys,

 

Anyone know here the best place to get some replacement screws for an Outlaw?

 

Son in law managed to round the heads off some of the screws, we managed to dremel a line accross them and get them out with a flathead screwdriver but they will need replacing.

 

I am not even sure of the various sizes of screws looks like there are a few different lengths.  Ideally after a mixed selection so we have some spares going forward.

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You will need loads of wee screws  as I found that out when I 1st stated . .

Lipo is best and brushless for outlaws as I made that mistake too .once I swapped it over and got a LOW KV rating it's the mutts nuts . And as above change the spur gear and pinions.  

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Hi guys,

 

I've just joined the Outlaw ranks after buying a brushless version last Wednesday. I had to make a few adjustments as the steering was proper wonky so it was definitely not 'RTR'.

 

Run-1:  I took it to the park and within the first 3-minutes of use the front suspension holder broke so it was out of action almost immediately. I don't think me driving into a wooden post helped though, lol.

 

Run-2:  I let my wife have a go and she throttled it without turning the steering and off it went into a fence, breaking the very front two chassis affixing points and the front bumper plastic supports........so that was session two over fairly quickly.

 

Run-3: Perfectly fine but the buggy keeps twisting and flipping - my inexperience doesn't help though!

 

Run-4:  TBC but with the following mods done:

 

Modifications:

 

I've posted up some pics below but in a nutshell I have:

 

1.  Moved the battery forward to help with weight distribution.

 

2.  Relocated the ESC, RX and on-off switch and a bit of a wire tidying too.

 

3.  Fully braced the front using the chassis plate, differential housing and suspension mounts to clamp the new skid plate to the front.

 

4.  Changed the shock oil to 45 which has made no difference whatsoever to me wanting to stiffen up the front suspension.

 

5.  I've braced the rear suspension mounts to help support the shocks when under pressure.

 

I'll keep an eye on the heat of the ESC against the battery compartment but it looks to be fairly well vented for now.

 

Wish me luck for Run-4 !!

 

All the best,

 

Andrew

 

Screenshot_20211126-124039_Gallery.thumb.jpg.077119288904b73b54dbd0e9aaf44bfc.jpg

 

Screenshot_20211126-124026_Gallery.thumb.jpg.9f57082d425db102aebdf7cf658deb1a.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Buggy Malone
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