PraetoR Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 Well there's a few issues with that: 1- The 1060 isn't really suited to running 3s. It can do, but not ideally and probably not for long. 2- It's the ESC that gets set to lipo mode, not the receiver. Can you tell us exactly what you did? 3- The FTX 15t brushed motor is an absolute turd! It's probably burnt out. They never used to be quite so bad, but Alun at Tay Models reckons they've cheapened the manufacturing process, or something, because he's seeing a lot more FTXs being returned with blown motors, than their used to be. In short- the crappy motor won't take 3s for long. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 Sounds like the brush arms in the motor have melted they are only thin bits of copper. The motors are crud but even higher quality motors will be eaten by the outlaw, worth investing in brushless if you dont want to keep replacing motors after a couple of hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAL3D Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 (edited) Well had the Outlaw out over the local long grassed and ploughed fields and can confirm the stiffened alloy loaded rear and spoiler seem to have made it far more stable at speed 😎 But it did get a bit filthy 🤣 Video: VID_20201115151608.mp4 Next is to get one of the 5000mAh 50c 3S cells the OH has for her Arrma Senton in my Outlaw without melting it all lol Edited November 15, 2020 by DAL3D 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 Should take 3s no worries, just get a motor cooler and maybe pop a fan on it if its getting to hot. I only run 3s on mine but then again dont use the stock electronics. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tomr Posted November 17, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted November 17, 2020 Another session with the Outlaw 👍 Didn’t break anything again but did bend a front shock shaft ,running into a tree root . 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAL3D Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 (edited) Had a quick run out this evening to see what a 2S 50c was like (news just in readers.. it's quick!) but ended up breaking the metal rear drive shaft I'd put in as an "upgrade" over the stock plastic one. So the plastic one is back on again 🤣 And while I was "fiddling" I thought it'd be a good time to fit the 23T Pinion that I'll need when I fit the little Torro wheels and body Took it out again to test and it still works - but with the 23T gear it's a bit nippy on the original big tyres!!! Oh and I've started to strengthen the Torro bodyshell with skrim tape, hybrid grab adhesive / sealant I already had and some steel mesh for the windows to put of the pooch from chomping it maybe. And it looks kinda cool. Edited November 17, 2020 by DAL3D 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomr Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 I’ve got an “upgrade metal shaft” sitting in my tool box but the plastic one is still going strong .......think I’ll leave it be 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAL3D Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 2 minutes ago, tomr said: I’ve got an “upgrade metal shaft” sitting in my tool box but the plastic one is still going strong .......think I’ll leave it be 👍 I would if I were you. If going metal though - has anyone got any suggestions they've used that helps upgraded power trains? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 The genuine FTX metal prop shaft is strong. Looks like you used a 3rd party item? The only issue with the FTX one is you NEED to add threadlock! Otherwise, it just spits the grub screws! I'm running the FTX metal prop with a 3500Kv brushless system and 2s lipo and it holds-up, perfectly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 19 hours ago, DAL3D said: I would if I were you. If going metal though - has anyone got any suggestions they've used that helps upgraded power trains? Hate to say it but buy cheap buy twice, yes the ftx ones more expensive and falls apart if not prepared correctly but its steel not pot metal, I've put 4s through mine with a higher torque gearbox with no issues so far. The plastic drives are good because they can flex, they will twist but not had one snap yet on 3s even. Aslong as the truck doesnt get bound down and the drive train over stressed, the stock plastic shafts lasted along time. Played round with battery positions, new gearbox, running on 4s be intresting to see how it handels the hills and if the 3s motor gets super hot, so far so good tho. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 What is this "high torque gearbox" you speak of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 1 hour ago, PraetoR said: What is this "high torque gearbox" you speak of? @PraetoR I cant stand the outlaw transmission due to the clogging that happens with it on hills, so i dump it for a diffrent gearbox completely, you can see the results and details of my first attempt here, I have just done the same to my outlaw above but with the transmission / gearbox flipped so the motor is mounted backwards. Love your videos, hope to see you continue to work on your outlaws. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 Brilliant, I'll have a good look through that! Cheers. Thanks very much, I appreciate it. Currently still offshore, then a house move to do. But hopefully get some more videos done, before Christmas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAL3D Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 Whilst servicing the Outlaw today I noticed that the tyres are now really soft compared to the unused one that came on the body. Are the tyres foam filled and could this have now disintegrated causing the softness? And as they're superglued on, what's my chances of replacing them? Also has anyone fitted different shocks to their Outlaw? Think it could do with some decent adjustability when I swap bodyshells. The OH Senton has nice spacers to adjust the ride height. For reference the front Shocks are 135mm between centres and the fronts 95mm. ION, I fitted the Torro body and wheels today. Not much point in a photo as it just looks like a Torro now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAL3D Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 Actually - forgot I put some steel mesh on the windows (aka chicken wire 🤣) to give it bit of a "yeehaw!" Lol and deter the mutt from nibbling at it. Also Skrim taped the inside and slapped a load of hybrid sealant to help beef it up a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 (edited) Yes the stock wheels / tires have foams. The sponges are probably wet / damp from being run on wet grass and will start to desintergrate but usally not that quick, you can tell as they will feel lumpy and not run true, also as they are run in the tire rubber will soften vs the spare one thats unloaded. So is your outlaw and outlaw or a torro now haha. Edit: Outlaw issues, lad clipped a bench in the park, bent lower arm pin and snapped the mounts, very impressed as this is the first and only front end failure after many years of hitting walls, trees etc... Least it's not my outlaw haha. Edited November 21, 2020 by Redback 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymartin2110 Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 cheap little mod gives more stabiliy to rear end now it hardly lifts the front tyre anymore 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAL3D Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 (edited) Outlaw now has his bigger wheels on and transformed back from *Torro" mode. The stiffer back end and the wider wheels mean there's no more cocking a leg - and even oversteers on a damp car park. Certainly no more flipping! Might be a bit too stiff to be honest. i'll see if I can get the video uploaded... Edited December 7, 2020 by DAL3D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAL3D Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 VID_20201207073759.mp4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobby's Hobby's Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 Hi all, I have just recently bought a 120A ESC and 3900KV Brushless motor system off ebay. But for some reason, the my car is not working. I am using a 3s lipo and DumborRC X6 transmitter and when i plug the battery in and turn on the car an radio the fan turns on and it beeps. I can use the sub-trims to control the car but that is it. It will not respond to my throttle or steering, only the sub-trims. Does anyone know why this is happening and can it be fixed and how. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DartmoorTrails Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 45 minutes ago, Wobby's Hobby's said: Hi all, I have just recently bought a 120A ESC and 3900KV Brushless motor system off ebay. But for some reason, the my car is not working. I am using a 3s lipo and DumborRC X6 transmitter and when i plug the battery in and turn on the car an radio the fan turns on and it beeps. I can use the sub-trims to control the car but that is it. It will not respond to my throttle or steering, only the sub-trims. Does anyone know why this is happening and can it be fixed and how. Was there a guide to how to set up the ESC @Wobby's Hobby's? Failing that, have you got make and model? You'll be needing to set end points on the throttle but not all ESCs are equal...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy L Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 Hi all New to this part of the site, but not the forum, and defo not RC. I have 2 Outlaws, one was given to me by a good friend. We bought them together but he didn't like his due to some of the compromising part quality. So I inherited his roller. My OG is mostly stock. the stock motor eventually burnt out, as did the esc, so it's been replaced with a 540 from a load of never used Tamiya parts, and a H/wing 1050, or 60, esc. It does run an RW racing pinion as those kit brass ones are truly awful and are partly responsible for the premature demise of the stock spur gear, in my opinion. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy L Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 (edited) My 2nd Outlaw, being a roller, was almost a license for free reign. I am choosing my parts wisely, and as and when I get the impetus. It currently has an RW Racing pinion, and spur gear, coupled to the FTX steel prop shaft. I have put thicker grease in both diffs. It has the ali front wishbone mounts. An actual known value of oil in the shocks. I also removed the spare tyre mount from the rear and got a clear shell t do in my racing colours. What I can tell you, is that the bodyshell must be made of melted down crisp bags from the 80s or something, because after one tumble, it split, and bit came flying off. I am not impressed. It also has a homemade carbon roof. I also notice on here a few of you were moving their cell trays forward which made sense to me, because, as you'll glean from the pics, it has a habit of lifting the front. What I also did was stiffen the stock anti roll bar by shortening the upper links. You'll see this in the pics too. so that's me. Further mods will be dealt out in due course. Edited December 19, 2020 by Crazy L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Crazy L Posted December 19, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted December 19, 2020 And here's a couple of pics of Outlaw #1, henceforth known as O1, out in the mire. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suls Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Hi all, First post of probably many having purchased the kids a brushed carnage 2.0 and outlaw for christmas. I've grabbed some 6000ma S2 Lipos off of hobby king which have turned up in time for Christmas but I just want to sense check that the stock brushed Outlaw is lipo compatible out of the box, I know the carnage 2.0 ESC can switch modes to lipo but I'm not 100% sure if this is also true of the outlaw and it now wrapped up and out the way. I have some 4500 nimh as well which I grabbed prior to getting sucked into upgrades straight away but will return these if I can. Will likely go brushless so soon as the kids get the hang of things so getting the £50 back on the nimhs will be useful if it is an option Many thanks suls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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