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FTX Outlaw Owners


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Bluetak? I'm about to fit the official diff locks so v curious. Is this the blue putty for sticking posters up?

 

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This stuff my friend works wonders and you can remove it whenever you want.441b2a7fed5ccc2d34cb8db5ff77768d.jpg

 

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This stuff my friend works wonders and you can remove it whenever you want.441b2a7fed5ccc2d34cb8db5ff77768d.jpg 
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No way???

OK, so you just bung it in the diff? I thought it would just rip it up.

Any probs with added stresses to drive train? I'm going to do rear diff, take it for a run, then try front if needs be.

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No way???

OK, so you just bung it in the diff? I thought it would just rip it up.

Any probs with added stresses to drive train? I'm going to do rear diff, take it for a run, then try front if needs be.

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Just clean the diff out of all grease then place one of the gears in that the drive shafts go into then place the small double gears back in, now start packing in the blu tack down the sides and use the handle of a small screw driver to help pack it in.
Just fill in as much as you can, when you get full the only thing you have to worry about is makin sure the last gear fits in level with the edge of the diff case, if all is ok put back together and refit.
Make sure you can fit the drive shafts before it goes back into the axle as its easier when its out than when its in.
No problems with the drive train as the shafts are metal so its all good, turning circle seems ok with the rear locked.
Have fun.

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Nice one! I'm gonna see how the std lockers fit first, simply as I have them at hand, but I like the idea of bluetak esp given that it much allow a degree of slip compared to the metal lockers should it be needed, instead of stressing other components.

Great advice.

I'll report back.

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Nice one! I'm gonna see how the std lockers fit first, simply as I have them at hand, but I like the idea of bluetak esp given that it much allow a degree of slip compared to the metal lockers should it be needed, instead of stressing other components.

Great advice.

I'll report back.

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Ok rear diff locker fitted no probs. Took a min to work out how to fit it, but once inner cogs removed it dropped in a treat. Tried it around the flat (stainless steel prop shaft) and it seems unconcerned about locked diff which is great.

May get out on trails with it this weekend.

One half of A'n'T R/C on youtube, see my SCX10II in action there

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The transmitter you get with the ftx which other receivers can it work with please?
Many thanks

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I would imagine any other Etronix transmitter. I don't think you can pair them across brands.

One half of AnT R/C on youtube, see my SCX10II in action there

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I would imagine any other Etronix transmitter. I don't think you can pair them across brands.

One half of AnT R/C on youtube, see my SCX10II in action there

I was hoping that the flysky 3ch receiver would work?

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On 29/01/2018 at 08:00, t2boats said:

@Welsh40 ah mate unlucky! Yeah it’s best to just renew the electrics. And running on sand is absolutely great, but the cleaning afterwards :huh:  

Receivers are cheap as chips, the FlySky receiver binds to the eTronix Rx no problems (they’re the same thing!). But for quick postage I’d go for one from modelsport again, or see if someone in the UK on eBay are selling the FlySky 3ch receivers. The twitching could just be your receiver. But, as for steering servo’s - are ten a penny, so many to choose from. Could be a good opportunity to upgrade to a more powerful servo. I’ve used allsorts of makes over the years, my Outlaw now has a TowerPro 20kg servo fitted. Very powerful! You can try Turnigy, and recently I’ve bought and tried a HDKJ 15kg - proved itself very well indeed, and they’re waterproof. 

Someone recommended the flysky to me. I havent tried it yet but is seems they have and they were able to bind it fine. 

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Someone recommended the flysky to me. I havent tried it yet but is seems they have and they were able to bind it fine. 
Ta loads I have ordered one and will let you all know the outcome.

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[mention=15701]rct[/mention] I've posted a few pix of beadlocks on my thread in General Electrics, just deciding which set to go for. 
I got a set of gmade r1 beadlock wheel's with bighorn tires on them, but they are on my custom ftx spyder crawler.
I was thinking of putting them on but the bighorn tires are not really good for bashing so thats them out, but at least i have the beadlock wheels and i can get replacement Outlaw tires and foams and now that i know they will work on beadlock wheel's i am a lot happier.

I did not realise that the Outlaw tires are axial yeti ripsaw clones?

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Not sure on that one?! I guess the producer of the tyre must supply to several brand names (as they're also found on the identical model under the guise of VXL Octane) , or the tyres have been allowed to be produced under licence (however it works). Never noticed them on any other model other than the Outlaw and Octane now you mention it . 

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Not sure on that one?! I guess the producer of the tyre must supply to several brand names (as they're also found on the identical model under the guise of VXL Octane) , or the tyres have been allowed to be produced under licence (however it works). Never noticed them on any other model other than the Outlaw and Octane now you mention it . 
I had a good look today at work and if you compare the 2 they have the same tread pattern, the only thing missing is the branding logos.

Have a look what do you think?2b4e9ecbeb21ace564bd0fe0ea0a60c2.jpg585514ccc6309b94622308658b8c2c5c.jpg

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Yeah very similar, just the central pattern overlaps on the Axial tyre, the outer knobbles seem closer together whereas on the FTX tyre they seem a little further apart. Not sure if they tyres are the same diameter and width!?!

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Are these made from matte black fine China like the viper? I've been watching a king of the hammers ultra 4 thing on the telly & I've found a fantastic crawling/ rock racing spot recently. So I'm eyeing up one of these. Also what's the motor dimensions? I've got a 2300kv brushless motor & 120a esc going spare ( out of the bloody awful viper) . So ( if I do hit the buy button) I'd buy the brushed version & save a few quid. Tia noFx :D

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10 minutes ago, NOFX said:

Are these made from matte black fine China like the viper? I've been watching a king of the hammers ultra 4 thing on the telly & I've found a fantastic crawling/ rock racing spot recently. So I'm eyeing up one of these. Also what's the motor dimensions? I've got a 2300kv brushless motor & 120a esc going spare ( out of the bloody awful viper) . So ( if I do hit the buy button) I'd buy the brushed version & save a few quid. Tia noFx :D

 

Nah, these are pretty solid bashers. No Pro-Line Pro-MT, of course, but fairly decent!

 

The motor is 550 sized, but a 540 brushless is definitely an upgrade! In fact, ditch the standard motor, immediately!!

 

That system would be fine, but you'd need to run it 3s, as I think 2s would leave a lot to be desired.

 

550 and 540 have the same 36mm diametre.

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Just got back from the first brushless 3s run, locked front and rear diffs.
Wow what a difference she goes like a rocket now and climbs much better than my ftx spyder thing?
BUT i did break one of the trailing arm chassis mounts after a big tumble down a big slope, i was so surprised that i didnt break anything else. My chassis strengthening carbon plates seem to have worked, i was fully expecting the chassis to have broken in the usual place but she did not.
I decided to purchase the stanard plastic replacement part just simply due to cost, they are so cheap.

How does the aluminium chassis and alu parts hold up to a good tumble?

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I’d like to know that as well. I would imagine it would do very well. My Ripmax Husky has an aluminium chassis and is bullet proof...and thats at the hands of my gun-ho, full throttle, hit every curb and tree going, 8 year old son driving it.

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