FTX Outlaw Owners

[lifeofbwyan]

Hi Bieomax, unfortunately that is the epa for the steering servo, not the throttle. There isn't a user settable throttle adjustment but interesting to see from your photo a couple of potentiometers on the transmitter PCB.

 

Time to dismantle mine I think and have a tinker - if one is for a throttle epa then perhaps a strategically drilled hole in the case and a small screwdriver in my pocket may give me the field adjustment I'm hoping for.

 

Currently I've got half an eraser on an elastic band under the throttle switch which'll beg the question from my son 'what's that for?''!

[bieomax]

Arrh is that the dualrate then. I'll admit that i never used the standard controller as i already had a flysky gt3c so i just bound that to the rx

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[bieomax]

Had a bash last night and still losing sensor mode (but better than it was) I'm starting to think its the floureon lipos as its practically the only thing i haven't changed.

But then i did pair the 2 5200mah 2S up so should have 10400mah, they should be able to provide enough power together.

Scratching my head now.

Could it be the flysky rx causing an issue?

Or am i running the motor in the wrong direction?

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[ADH66]

Sone footage of my new sensored brushless set up with 60wt oil in the stock shocks

Exact spec is on a previous post, but it's an Ares Pro motor, Hobbywing ESC and Turnigy servo.

It's creamy smooth compared to snatchy OE brushless set up. Doesn't feel as uncouth and raw. Top speed untested as still on slightly damaged spur wheel from installation pics on previous post.

Higher speed runs coming up next

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[ADH66]

Higher speed larking about with the sensored set up, testing the 60wt oil.

Initially thoughts are perhaps a tad hard in rear for low speed, but much improvement in high speed / aggressive driving. Car doesn't body roll or lift near as much as stock, cornering much better too. Jumps have composure both take off and landing.

Will set up spare rear shocks with 40+ wt and switch out depending on use.

Fronts seem great on 60 as v front heavy car.

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[johninderby]

Looking good. 

 

So much nicer to run with the Ares motor isn’t it?  Particularily like the way it takes off from a dead stop with no hesitation.

 

      John

[ADH66]

Looking good. 
 
So much nicer to run with the Ares motor isn’t it?  Particularily like the way it takes off from a dead stop with no hesitation.
 
      John

Yeah great improvement, no small thanks to you.



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[bieomax]

 
ive used ALL different weights of oil in my cars over the years but have found what works best for me and my driving style. I don't just use this truck for crawling. It gets jumped HARD so the higher weight is crucial in my circumstances as I hate bottoming out the suspension on a hard land or an akward one. Drop offs and all sorts so the higher weight compensates. It drives just as I like it and handles a treat for me so I think its a case of each to there own [emoji4] .
Pete

Have a look on here for outlaws exploded diagram as i may give a little more detail

http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/manuals?brand=FTX



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[Critter]

Just passing through....

[t2boats]

Welcome to the forum, Critter! What's your set up then under the shell? 

[Critter]

5 hours ago, t2boats said:

Welcome to the forum, Critter! What's your set up then under the shell? 

 

HEY! THANKS! 

 

Its a bone stock VRX Outlaw XL...I've been lurking in here for a while looking at all the bad ass set ups and finally pulled the trigger on one LOL. 

 

I had a HI LUX body laying around for a while and one night me and a buddy were sitting here shooting the **** and he dared me to try it. 

 

Thats how it turned out. I'm debating buying another one because I'm not too happy with the paint so its gonna be my bash body. 

 

Since I got it I haven't driven either of my two Slashes...LOL Its Awesome. 

Edited October 20, 2017 by Critter

[t2boats]

They are good I must admit. I've made a few upgrades a while back to certain areas which I thought would prolong its running life, and it's not disappointed me. Definitely one of the more fun RC's I own. I like seeing it cover off-road ground quickly yet soak the bumps so easily. Makes for great slo-mo video too!

[Bix]

I became the owner of a brushless Outlaw today, it started life as a brushed but has the exact same running gear as the brushless now. Last owner had limited knowledge and didn’t know how to fix it so I got it pretty cheap.

 

In good condition but needs a strip down as the front drive keeps cutting out, from a quick inspection it’s the cup on the main shaft that is to blame so shouldn’t be a big problem. Everything else seems alright on the surface so hopefully the strip down won’t reveal any other issues.

 

Just wondered if the recommendations from many many posts ago still stand in terms of required alloy upgrades? Basically chassis, front knuckles and bearing carriers?

 

 

Looking forward to getting it up and running properly 

[t2boats]

Congrats on your purchase! Yeah I'd upgrade some parts to alloy. Everyone has their own personal choices. I wanted to eliminate any slop which develops in the plastic hubs etc, so went for ali knuckles/hubs/castors, and rear hubs. Also ali link arms as I wasn't quite sure the plastic ones would last that long going fast over rough terrain. Or they'd give too much flex. And most of all, an ali 23t motor mount. Still wish FTX produced an ali gearbox casing, but they don't (shame cos the Outback has that option!)

[Bix]

1 hour ago, t2boats said:

Congrats on your purchase! Yeah I'd upgrade some parts to alloy. Everyone has their own personal choices. I wanted to eliminate any slop which develops in the plastic hubs etc, so went for ali knuckles/hubs/castors, and rear hubs. Also ali link arms as I wasn't quite sure the plastic ones would last that long going fast over rough terrain. Or they'd give too much flex. And most of all, an ali 23t motor mount. Still wish FTX produced an ali gearbox casing, but they don't (shame cos the Outback has that option!)

Thanks for the advice, having mainly only had Tamiya or Traxxas truggy’s, monsters or short course the platform is very different to what I’m used to, not to mention 4 wheel drive too. So I will probably use this thread a lot over the next few weeks.

 

Its recently had a new link arm installed and has a spare so I’ll see how they go, also came with 5 (yes that’s right 5!) spare spur gears. I know some people have had issues with these but that seemed a bit excessive. The Ali motor mount tends to sort out the spur chewing if I remember rightly from what I’ve read on here?

 

The chap I bought it off had only recently installed the new brushless combo, it does seem a bit rough tho. Some of this might be down to the driveline needing attention but it certainly doesn’t seem to be the smoothest combo, coming from the VXL’s I have experience with anyways.

 

I could always stick one of the VXL combos in just for a laugh once I’ve stripped it down.

 

Gotta love having a new RC to tinker with 

Edited October 22, 2017 by Bix

[t2boats]

That's the best part - the tinkering..  

Theses are the ali parts I fitted to my Outlaw:

 

FTX8372  (23t motor mount)

FTX8383  (rear axle hubs)

FTX8382  (rear link arms)

FTX8376  (rear sway lower arms)

FTX8375  (rear sway upper arms)

FTX8377  (rear stainless prop shaft)

FTX6320  (front wishbones - not ali but always handy to have in the spares box!)

FTX6368  (front castors)

FTX6367  (front knuckle arms)

FTX6376  (front [and rear] anti role bar, only use the front one)

 

And that's about it I think! And I'm not quite sure how this typing has ended up with a grey background??!? 

[Bix]

Not the best day of assessing the Outlaws condition! First off I got a nice new servo which is too bloody big  to the point it rubs on the drive cup.

 

 

I’ll put the servo to use in my Stampede but I will need a replacement for the Outlaw, any advice on a decent one that fits?

 

The rear diff feels a little rough but seems to run ok so didn’t bother stripping it right back as I was itching to give it a run!

 

I’ve read on this thread that the original brushless electrics tend to cog but it was pretty excessive and kept playing up going into reverse. Then eventually it packed up altogether, I initially thought it was the motor but investigation and plugging a VXL ESC into the motor reveals it’s the ESC at fault.

 

Im gonna take it for run tomorrow with the VXL ESC and see how the motor performs, I’m hoping the cogging won’t be as bad as I only ran it on the table with no wheels when I quickly hooked up the VXL.

 

Still love the way the Outlaw drives and I didn’t expect it to be in perfect condition at the price I paid so not too disappointed 

[johninderby]

Most people use this servo with the Outlaw. Cheap and works well.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turnigy-HD-1501-MG-High-Torque-Servo-17kg-cm-1-14s-Waterproof-Metal-Gear/151832827767?hash=item2359f11777:g:j24AAOSwFnFWCobL

 

I changed to sensored with mine and zero cogging.

 

       John

 

 

Edited October 26, 2017 by johninderby

[Bix]

14 minutes ago, johninderby said:

Most people use this servo with the Outlaw. Cheap and works well.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turnigy-HD-1501-MG-High-Torque-Servo-17kg-cm-1-14s-Waterproof-Metal-Gear/151832827767?hash=item2359f11777:g:j24AAOSwFnFWCobL

 

I changed to sensored with mine and zero cogging.

 

       John

 

 

Ordered cheers dude 

[ADH66]

Ordered cheers dude 

Yup, order with confidence. It's a good un.

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[Bix]

Just out of curiosity I put the etronix motor in my Stampede and it doesn’t cog anywhere near as much, mind you it only has 2 wheels to drive instead of 4 I suppose!

 

The shaft on my spare VXL setup is too long unfortunately as I was gonna see how it went tomorrow...

 

 

Ill stick the etronix back in with the VXL ESC and see how it goes, definitely new electronics required tho! Glad I didn’t plump for a brand new brushless Outlaw now!

 

Just a thought would down gearing to the 17t reduce the cogging? 

Edited October 26, 2017 by Bix

[Ollykamakazi]

Hi everyone,

new on here. Sorry to hijack this thread. 

Ive been reading through this thread trying to glean some info as I've just bought my son a brushless Outlaw for his birthday. 

I know enough about rc cars to be dangerous sadly. 

Only had the car out once. It ran really well then barrel rolled landed badly and snapped front suspension mount. 

That fixed we went out this weekend to have another go with his new present. 

Problem. Servos turn wheels. No drive. 

It only beeps twice now not three times when turned on. 

Fan on the speed controller comes on immediately on start up and nothing else happens. 

Has the speed controller had it already. Tyres aren't even dirty it's that new. 4 mins run time max. Should this have happened? Thought it should be able to take a tumble. 

 Is there any point in contacting the sellers. Could it be faulty?

Help please. My lad was so upset it wouldn't run I'm keen to get to the bottom of this. 

Any advice would be really appreciated. 

[t2boats]

Hi Olly, welcome to the forum!

sounds like it's had a nasty shock when it crashed, are you using a 2S Lipo? Esc's normally beep so many times when switching it on, counting the number of cells, so two beeps if it's 2S. I'm not familiar with the stock brushless esc on the Outlaw, is there a button on it? On the ones I use there's a program button which can also be used to reset it. Or pick up a program card perhaps?? Also worth checking the receiver, it might simply be the esc plug popped up slightly from

its port in the receiver. Or motor wiring is adrift somewhere. Is there a light on the esc, I'm assuming if there is and it flashes green when all is good and ready to use. If it's another colour then it's detected a fault. Good luck! 

[suvv]

brushless esc's sometimes need to know what the limits are of the transmitter 

1: switch everything on

2: move the throttle control to its maximum in both directions a few times

3: the esc should beep to say it has found its limits and you should be ok from then

make sure to do this with the wheels off the ground or it will suddenly take off

 

if that doesnt work try putting the esc into a different point on the receiver and seeing if it works the steering channel if it does its the receiver that has died and not the esc

the fan on the esc probably takes its power direct from the power supply to the esc so unfortunately all that shows is that the esc is getting power 

 

a third option would be to rebind the receiver to the transmitter i have had speed controller issues solved in the past on robots with a simple rebinding do you know what type of transmitter and receiver you have  if so simply look up the rebinding process on google

[Ollykamakazi]

Hi Olly, welcome to the forum!
sounds like it's had a nasty shock when it crashed, are you using a 2S Lipo?

Hi. Thanks for the reply. It’s a 2s Lopo.
Thought I’d read it should have been three but it must have been something else.
I’ll investigate further tomorrow and will update on here. Thanks.


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