FTX Outlaw Owners

[Valyno]

Hi There,

 

Got m Outlaw BL back (rear axle was broken and front cage hole was distorted..)

I mounted my new aluminium rear axle today.. and it's great.

However, like some others already told, the little screw is moving away with the vibrations..

Just ordered some Loctite 243 to stop it

 

The BL version is really quick on 2S, I can't imagine what it's like with a 3S!!

 

I juste ordered a new ESC and BL motor for my Brushed version:

1 x Hobbywing QUICRUN WP-10BL60 BL ESC
1 x Etronix Photon 2.1 Sensorless 1/10 13R 2950Kv Motor

 

And then we will race like hell with my son

[Jason1145]

5 hours ago, johninderby said:

Same as Futaba, 25t. I fitted a Turnigy 1501MG servo which which was a straight swap.

 

          John

 

 

 

Cheers John, I had a spare aluminium 25t servo horn but it didn't seem to want to fit on the stock servo so I didn't press it too hard for fear of damaging the servo mount shaft... . I might have try again with more oomph.

[Isle of Wight Basher]

When doing some reading about the VRX Octane version I found out that Banggood are stocking some parts. https://www.banggood.com/search/vrx-1045.html

 

Furthermore there's pictures of the Aluminium Rear Axle Housing and Beadlocks. Good prices also.

 

So I've ordered an Aluminium Rear Axle Housing and another Carbon Chassis, I was going to use the chassis as a Trophy Truck project but I'm now getting a Losi Baja Rey from a fellow forum member, therefore it will probably be up for sale if anyone is interested.

Edited May 7, 2017 by Isle of Wight Basher

[Jason1145]

2 hours ago, Isle of Wight Basher said:

When doing some reading about the VRX Octane version I found out that Banggood are stocking some parts. https://www.banggood.com/search/vrx-1045.html

 

Furthermore there's pictures of the Aluminium Rear Axle Housing and Beadlocks. Good prices also.

 

So I've ordered an Aluminium Rear Axle Housing and another Carbon Chassis, I was going to use the chassis as a Trophy Truck project but I'm now getting a Losi Baja Rey from a fellow forum member, therefore it will probably be up for sale if anyone is interested.

 

Cool I didn't know about that Octane model so this is a great source for extra parts cheers.

That rear axle looks very nice too... do you have a blue alloy chassis for sale or the Carbon one? Which is more bashable over the stock plastic one?

I was thinking to get the alloy chassis and Banggood have that in stock where it's not available in the UK right now... and the same for the alloy rear central drive shaft... hmmm do I wait for UK stock or order from China

[Isle of Wight Basher]

12 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

 

Cool I didn't know about that Octane model so this is a great source for extra parts cheers.

That rear axle looks very nice too... do you have a blue alloy chassis for sale or the Carbon one? Which is more bashable over the stock plastic one?

I was thinking to get the alloy chassis and Banggood have that in stock where it's not available in the UK right now... and the same for the alloy rear central drive shaft... hmmm do I wait for UK stock or order from China

 

It's the carbon one I've ordered and I'm not 100% on selling it yet, also if I get custom charges I'd add them (pro rata) to the sale price anyhow.

 

As for aluminium vs the carbon chassis, they're both a vast improvement over stock, although I prefer carbon for the bit of flex they give, and the aluminium one is too much blue for me.

[LittleRichard]

On 2017-5-5 at 20:25, Jason1145 said:

 

 

I've broken a few of these also, still using the plastic ones though as they're so cheap. 

 

I think I mentioned earlier in the thread that I had enlarged the drive pin on the center shaft as I'd stripped the slot on the spur twice. 

 

 

You can see how much they hole has elongated on the steel drive shaft too, these shafts have an incredible amount of slop in them which is disappointing, I'm on my second steel shaft now! 

 

The enlarged center drive pin still gave up eventually, so modified the gearbox to take this from a Tamiya. It's a 68t so needed a bit of space created for it but uses an aluminium hub. Running with an 18t steel pinion and the 23t mount meshes perfectly. 

 

 

Shame I've melted the motor and esc now though, getting by on a little sensor less 13.5T and 45A esc for now, but it doesn't like 3S much  until I can decide what to get. 

Edited May 9, 2017 by LittleRichard

[Jason1145]

Run number 2 today on 2s lipo ( stock brushed) and after 10 minutes and a couple of roll overs I noticed my rear wheels were wobbly .. I carried on for another 10 minutes till lvc cut in ( left my lipo at 3.6v resting voltage... just about ok) 

 

Got home and took the rear wheels off and it looks like I've bent both rear drive shafts, the long and the short one. (FTX 8317 and FTX8318)

Heres the video evidence rolling it flat showing the bow on one of them.

Would the aluminium axle adapters (FTX8383) stop this happening?

Havent heard of this problem being reported before... 

 

Edited May 11, 2017 by Jason1145

[Jason1145]

 

[Chris Curby]

On 07/05/2017 at 13:25, Valyno said:

Hi There,

 

Got m Outlaw BL back (rear axle was broken and front cage hole was distorted..)

I mounted my new aluminium rear axle today.. and it's great.

However, like some others already told, the little screw is moving away with the vibrations..

Just ordered some Loctite 243 to stop it

 

The BL version is really quick on 2S, I can't imagine what it's like with a 3S!!

 

I juste ordered a new ESC and BL motor for my Brushed version:

1 x Hobbywing QUICRUN WP-10BL60 BL ESC
1 x Etronix Photon 2.1 Sensorless 1/10 13R 2950Kv Motor

 

And then we will race like hell with my son

Ran mine on 3's for the first time at the weekend!! I did however purchase the tuner card (one on the left, costs a tenner!! Bargain.. so I altered a few settings before ramping it right up...super fast on 3's but would stick to 2's in future lol....I have altered my outlaw to run more like a buggy than a rock crawler to combat the rolling so it pretty much sticks to the ground now unless user error says otherwise :-)

Edited May 12, 2017 by Chris Curby

[StroudSmithy]

Talking as an absolute novice here but what does the tuner card allow you to do?

[Chris Curby]

23 minutes ago, StroudSmithy said:

Talking as an absolute novice here but what does the tuner card allow you to do?

Tuner card allows you to change the setup of your car: this is what can be changed on the outlaw...

• Cutoff Voltage (automatically detects the number of cells)
• Running Mode (forward w/o reverse, forward/reverse, forward with pause then reverse)
• Motor Timing (very low, low, normal, high, very high)
• Initial Acceleration (low, medium, high, very high)
• Throttle Percent Reverse (20% through to 100%)
• Throttle Limit (0% through to 90%)
• Percentage Braking (10% through to 100%)
• Percentage Drag Brake (0% through to 30%)
• Motor Rotation (normal, reverse)
• Neutral Range (deadband setting 2% through to 10%)

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=385693&gclid=CObIi6Kq6tMCFYU_Gwod-tINGQ

 

I found when I plugged the card in that my motor timing was set to normal meaning not at full speed which is what i kept it on when trying the 3's out...depends on how much you want to fiddle and fine tune to suit your driving really....And this is also coming from a novice ;-)

Edited May 12, 2017 by Chris Curby

[Jason1145]

Just ordered both rear drive shafts now, hope these last longer than the original ones.

Also ordered the aluminium chassis and upgrade rear centre drive shaft, both still on order with Supplier.

[Jason1145]

A little montage video Outlaw brushed on 2s lipo

 

[Jason1145]

Just swapped in a GoolRC 3900kv brushless motor and GoolRC 2-3s brushless esc - the install all went pretty smoothly, tested indoors and it seems spritely on 2s.

 

Now I see how that whole motor and spur gear assembley fit together with the motor mount etc... I might get the alloy motor mount to help with heat dissipation and reduce any flex there might be.

The 15t brushed motor i removed was a longer 550 can, my 3900kv motor is only 50mm long so I used the same motor heat sink from the 550 motor to help keep things cool.

I saw the receiver box has that gaping hole for the wires making it in non Waterproof, I will need to sort this out somehow in future as I prefer a Waterproof RC that can be washed after use.

i needed to cut the battery tray to allow my 2s lipo battery leads to exit but this was easy with some lexan scissors.

 

So the rear wheels still wobble from the bent axles but I might still test run this new system before the replacements arrive.

Things I want to know are the top speeds on this 3900kv motor with a :

 

2s lipo with 17t pinion

2s lipo with 23t pinion

 

3s lipo with 17t pinion

3s lipo with 23t pinion

 

I'll do some testing for these answers soon.

 

[Jason1145]

[bosco72]

Does any one know what the 2 xtra holes are for, by the rear sway bar.will the swaybar get stiffer if u move them to the other holes 

[bosco72]

Also looking for a rod to go between the rear shocks.if anybody did this what rod did u use

[johninderby]

Just use a piece of M3 threaded rod and four nuts. Simple.

 

               John

 

[bosco72]

Thank u 

[Jason1145]

2s lipo run on the new 3900kv motor with 17t pinion.

Run number 3 and no breakages... it was just flat running so wouldn't expect to break anything.

The bent rear axles held up well and it's rapid on this set up.. can't wait to try the 23t pinion and eventually 3s lipo for speed runs... I'm going to get this over 100kph if it kills it.

[Jason1145]

 

[t2boats]

Nice one! All the way throughout that video I was thinking "for goodness sake don't hit one of those pillars!!" 

They even "wave" with the front right wheel on 2S! 

[bieomax]

2s lipo run on the new 3900kv motor with 17t pinion.
Run number 3 and no breakages... it was just flat running so wouldn't expect to break anything.
The bent rear axles held up well and it's rapid on this set up.. can't wait to try the 23t pinion and eventually 3s lipo for speed runs... I'm going to get this over 100kph if it kills it.

Ive been finding the 23t 3900kv running a little hot this is without cooling though.

Im going to drop it to 22t and add the original brushed cooling fins to the can to see if it helps.

Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk

[t2boats]

I bought one of those fan heatsinks for mine, still haven't plugged it in yet! When I was doing the speed runs it wasn't that hot, warm yes but was easy to touch for a while. Perhaps when I use it off-road for a while things do get a lot warmer, must remember to take the small temp gun along with me but always forget..

[Jason1145]

4 hours ago, bieomax said:

 

Ive been finding the 23t 3900kv running a little hot this is without cooling though.

Im going to drop it to 22t and add the original brushed cooling fins to the can to see if it helps.

Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk
 

 

Can you drop from a 23t pinion to a 22t pinion? I thought there was only 17t and 23t available.

And after my 15 minutes on this 2s 3000mah lipo yes it was a very hot motor.. for a few speed runs I guess it doesn't get used as much as a full on 15 minutes so maybe it just does run hot which isn't good.

My heat sink might not be making full contact all around the motor can as I can't really see now it's mounted on... this could be an issue.

 

If I used a bigger 5000mah 2s lipo the run times would be longer, maybe 25 minutes, who knows then how much hotter that motor might've got?

I must bring my temp gun too next time to get a reading... but I could just about hold my finger on the motor for 2-3 seconds which I have tested in the past to give a motor temp of about 140 degrees Fahrenheit.