johninderby Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Thanks Wheels are these ones. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380908631942?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Come with stainless steel beadlock rings but I used Axial blue rings on the outside. Getting hard to find them in blue but you could always just paint the rings. Tyres are http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4Pcs-Austar-2-2-125mm-1-10-Scale-Tires-for-4WD-D90-SCX10-RC-Rock-Crawler-D9P6-/322174615331?hash=item4b031a7f23:g:YogAAOSwEjFXcyFA Tyres don't balloon like the stock tyres and are better on tarmac as the Outlaw doesn't roll over like it does on tarmac with the stock tyres. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ph678 Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 excellent. Cheers.........bought & bought! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 55 minutes ago, ph678 said: excellent. Cheers.........bought & bought! BTW have a new spare wheel and tyre (same as the ones you've just ordered) if you'd like a matching spare on the Outlaw. PM me if you're interested. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Curby Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Cheers for the welcome Ph678..:-) Also thanks for the advice John and smithy, I have a steel CVD on order but for the time being done a repair with the origanal plastic cvd until the steel arrives... It actually twisted then broke! Not sure how after one short run but the shop said I was just unlucky lol.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Curby Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 The day started pretty well at first when we bumped into this Lambo after trolling the streets with my sons cheapo starter Subotech and my brothers WLToys 12428... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ph678 Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Can anyone please help.....I'm after a couple of pinions for the outlaw and all I can seem to find are the robinson racing ones. If anyone knows of any others could they shout me please. Want to try the 23 tooth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isle of Wight Basher Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 The FTX one is part number FTX6278 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-pinion-gear-23t-vantage/rc-car-products/365835 Although the RR ones might last longer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isle of Wight Basher Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Regarding the plastic driveshafts that a few people have had fail, mine is still going strong (famous last words) and I'm wondering if it's down to the rear diff/output shaft mesh being too tight from the factory. Before running mine I checked it over and when spinning the rear driveshaft it felt tight and notchy, so I re-shimmed both the diff and the output shaft which freed it up a lot and logically would put less stress on the driveshaft. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 3 hours ago, ph678 said: Can anyone please help.....I'm after a couple of pinions for the outlaw and all I can seem to find are the robinson racing ones. If anyone knows of any others could they shout me please. Want to try the 23 tooth https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-6-pinion-23-teeth/rc-car-products/13762 RW Racing pinnys are pretty darn good. They're what a lot of members use. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Version 2 of the motor mount, i paid for it to be printed in metal as the plastics where deforming at the top due to not enough material.Ive a feeling this one wont do the same, i ordered it in steel as it was half the price of aluminium (about £16 + postage against 30ish in alu)Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spaners Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 On 08/04/2017 at 11:55, bieomax said: Version 2 of the motor mount, i paid for it to be printed in metal as the plastics where deforming at the top due to not enough material. Ive a feeling this one wont do the same, i ordered it in steel as it was half the price of aluminium (about £16 + postage against 30ish in alu) Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk 3D metal printing wow that's so cool 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valyno Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Hello, I am new to this forum and I discover this very useful thread while searching info about the Outlaw. I bought for my 7 son and I an Outlaw Brushed. We were very happy with it but frustrated by the low playing time of the NiMH batteries, I decided to move for LiPOs. My RC dealer provided me with Power Plant 5000mAh 45C AWSOME : the car is more reactive and the playtime is much better.... until the engine burnt (40 mn run). Back to my dealer, replaced the engine under warranty and then back on track for more fun... until the engine burnt again (40 mn run). Ok, since I had bought a spare engine, I made the replacement and back to the NiMH batteries. Works like a charm. Because my son was having all the fun, I decided to buy a second one and went for the Brushless version Jeez, the car is just crazy, wheeling at wish with full throttle... A lot of fun, of course my son wanted to try it. We set up a small springboard to start flying this little nasty blue rocket and it is very difficult to aim correctly at the narrow board. Great fun. until the driveshaft broke. So after 40 mn of fun in the first run, the car is now out of order!! ARGHHHHHHHHH, so : -brushed: after session 2 & session 3, 2 engines burnt -brushless: after session 1, driveshaft broken I have ordered two steel driveshafts to mount on the two cars. I will upgrade the Brushed version to Brushless in order to have only LiPO and avoid burning brushed engines one after the other. Overall, I like the machines, they are really fun to operate and not that expensive compared to other brands, like Traxxas and Kyoshos, but I think that the Brushless should come OOB with the steel driveshaft and the Brushed version, despite being compatible with LiPO, should stick with NiMH batteries... I don't regret my purchases at all, but the overall cost is a bit more than expected... Just sharing so that people considering to buy know where they are going into 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Curby Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 @ Valyno.... Hi Buddy I am no expert here for sure but do agree the plastic parts from factory arent the best, My plastic CVD broke on the first run but as Isle of white basher says this is more than likely that the rear diff/output shaft mesh was too tight from the factory, my local RC shop has backed this up also. I am on route this dinner time to pick up the steel version as it is now in stock, my FTX is again out of action as my brother managed to hit a skip with it!!!! Last time i let him have a go thats for sure!!! That being said the front right wheel is now hanging off lol thanks to the front suspension arm holders snapping..these ones.. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-front-suspension-arm-holders-2-vantage-carnage/rc-car-products/365755 Luckily my local shop has these in stock..https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-aluminium-front-suspension-holders-vantage-carnage/rc-car-products/365798 So I would certainly make the first two upgrades the steel CVD and the aluminium suspension holders, to be honest although he hit the skip it wasnt exactly a big crash so I was surprised they snapped so easily,,,, But overall this is a budget brushless that is great fun, I plan on keeping mine but upgrading the parts that break when they do break... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Curby Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 (edited) Fixed the Outlaw and added the new parts required.... However wont let me upload any more pictures!! :-( so for now just the one... Edited April 10, 2017 by Chris Curby 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Curby Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRichard Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 Mines looking more mad max than mad bling I've had to make a new roof, bonnet and sides, so the only original body part is the rear Best recorded speed so far is 36mph And just because I'm a child... Biscuit tin still going strong and no ally upgrades as yet. Just added additional screws between the chassis plate and trailing arm brackets, it's now done many a cartwheel without exploding. Stripped the centre of the spur a couple of times now since locking the rear diff, so thinking I'm going to go back to a functional diff. Also weighted the front wheels, which worked really well for climbing, but I have totally the wrong motor for that and decided I like speed 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Curby Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 that looks pretty cool richard..... Ive decided to put some temporary wheels on mine to improve the handling as a test,, took them off a maverick strada.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isle of Wight Basher Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 Here's spiderman's new Outlaw I liked it so much I've trimmed mine in a similar fashion, just debating wether to paint it orange now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 Mines looking more mad max than mad bling [emoji3]I like it, ive been thinking what to do to personalise it abitSent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demondirt Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Has anyone locked up the road diff yet an did it make it better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderman Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 I think Bashers Outlaw looks so much better now its been modified and the body looks more like the real thing? I'm sure it will look good in Orange. I also like Little Richards Outlaw, just needs a couple of Mad Max graphics on the sides ? Well done you've done a great job and its great to make a model your own by changing things. I painted mine dark grey, lime green and finally silver grey with a few coat of lacquer to finished off with. I gave it its first outing last Saturday, two minutes up the bus yard doing power slides etc ( amazing ? ) then down the shrubbery beside Carisbrooke Castle doing Steep Hill Climbing. I think I may have got about 5/6 minutes out of it , but what fun it was !!!!! Li-po battery and brushless motor etc will be my first mod, and when something breaks I'll upgrade. I really can't get over the punishment Basher gave his Outlaw when we met up a few weeks ago, it may not have looked pristine but its certainly was used to its full potential, I think the saying goes "How Dares Wins or, If You Don't Try You'll Never Know" Just a bit too quick for me being an old git !!! John 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRichard Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 2 hours ago, Demondirt said: Has anyone locked up the road diff yet an did it make it better I took the blue tac method on the rear diff and it definitely helped it climb, would go up steps with the suspension in its current lowered state even. The trouble I found though is that it's now stripping the drive pin slot in the center of the spur gear under heavy load/stall and it seems the replacement spurs have an even weaker design, so I've drilled through and put a 3mm grub in the pins place which has sorted it for now at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isle of Wight Basher Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Curby Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 Took the outlaw out today with the new upgrades and again encountered another issue after 20 mins run time. the grub screws that hold the steel Rear CVD in place were winding themselves out??? 3 times this happened luckily I didn't loose the grub screw but the CVD was again swinging around which was annoying! Anyone else had this issue when upgrading from plastic to steel? And if so how did you remedy?? Cheers Chris.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted April 15, 2017 Author Share Posted April 15, 2017 A drop of blue threadlock will sort it out. Loctite 222 or similar. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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