Himoto Bowie

[stretch]

I think it would be unfair to send them back he took a punt on them, the part numbers don't match they look different and had to bodge them on, hardly the sellers fault. Plus he's said he's one happy bunny.

[ROBSTER 1992]

Send em back as unfit and get some proper stock ones if you insist on sticking with this.  Dogbones are a mess, and it sounds like there catching on the inside of the drive cups now too - they won't last long.  Insulation tape 'mod' will soon fail and you'll damage the hubs when it does.

 

Re the washers could you not have used smaller screws?  I'd hazard that moving the pivot balls further from the hubs has either caused or exacerbated the camber issue.

 

Re heatsink no one is saying in your position you don't need to run one, but in a correctly geared system run within it's operating parameters you shouldn't need to....  The motor in this looks the same 540 sized can they fit to the buggy.  If your drivetrain is free then it's geared incorrectly or at worst not up to the job - that said although iffy plastics I've never had this issue with the E10's so I'd check your drivetrain is free / gear mesh.

 

 

I think I am going to leave it as it is and see how I get on I am actually starting to like the look of the camber now.

[ROBSTER 1992]

I think it would be unfair to send them back he took a punt on them, the part numbers don't match they look different and had to bodge them on, hardly the sellers fault. Plus he's said he's one happy bunny.

I am one happy bunny after all the work I had to do to make them fit.

[XV Pilot]

That is some camber you have going there!

 

It looks like the stock hubs have inwards-offset upper kingpins, while the alloy ones have them inline with the lower ones. This is giving you the excessive camber, which in turn is leading to the dogbone issues.

 

With a hub and hub carrier setup, you could get around this by fitting adjustable upper arms and extending them to normalise the camber. However the Bowie uses a carrierless system like a TT-01/02, so a turnbuckle upper arm wouldn't be a direct fit unfortunately. I wonder if a twin-turnbuckle setup as used on some drift chassis would do the trick? I suspect it would. It would also let you adjust your castor, which could also be seen as an upgrade.

 

The bearing issue is not a biggie - you could get correctly-proportioned ones from RCbearings for a couple of quid at most, and you could see this as an opportunity to upgrade to rubber-sealed bearings.

 

 

Edited September 21, 2016 by XV Pilot

[Kpowell911]

2 hours ago, capri-boy said:

Send em back as unfit and get some proper stock ones if you insist on sticking with this.  Dogbones are a mess, and it sounds like there catching on the inside of the drive cups now too - they won't last long.  Insulation tape 'mod' will soon fail and you'll damage the hubs when it does.

 

Re the washers could you not have used smaller screws?  I'd hazard that moving the pivot balls further from the hubs has either caused or exacerbated the camber issue.

 

Re heatsink no one is saying in your position you don't need to run one, but in a correctly geared system run within it's operating parameters you shouldn't need to....  The motor in this looks the same 540 sized can they fit to the buggy.  If your drivetrain is free then it's geared incorrectly or at worst not up to the job - that said although iffy plastics I've never had this issue with the E10's so I'd check your drivetrain is free / gear mesh.

 

 

Why should they accept then back? He has ruined his car by attempting to fit something that isnt intended for his car. Thats like me buying Savage knuckles for my Revo and moaning they dont fit. Im all for helping people, and i want to stop this guy RUINING his RC, but he clearly isnt listening so let him crack on. 

[capri-boy]

1 minute ago, Guns said:

Why should they accept then back? He has ruined his car by attempting to fit something that isnt intended for his car. Thats like me buying Savage knuckles for my Revo and moaning they dont fit. Im all for helping people, and i want to stop this guy RUINING his RC, but he clearly isnt listening so let him crack on. 

 

I'm not saying they should, more along the lines that the seller said something like they should fit.  My comment was more along the lines he should just bite the bullet and get the proper ones.  Completely agree re your last comment.

 

1 hour ago, XV Pilot said:

That is some camber you have going there!

 

It looks like the stock hubs have inwards-offset upper kingpins, while the alloy ones have them inline with the lower ones. This is giving you the excessive camber, which in turn is leading to the dogbone issues.

 

Well spotted.  

[Kpowell911]

4 hours ago, ROBSTER 1992 said:

Okay are you ready for this guys.

Here is the modifications I had to do to make my front hubs fit.

I had to cut my Dogbones .

I didn't really want to cut them but I had to they where rubbing in the drive cups I will get some shorter ones when these ones break.

I had to rap insulation tape round my bearings so they would fit in hubs the hole was to big.

I had to put 4 washers top and bottom because the bolts that go through the hubs was rubbing on drive cups.

Then also found that I needed to make my suspension harder to lift the arms up so the dogbones don't rub on the drive cups it still does it a little bit but it is not as bad as it was the wheels do turn around okay now.

Also done the suspension the same on the rear to.

Had to put tap round my suspension so the o ring fitted on because it was to big.

Had some fun with this lube no only joking.

Put the lube on moving parts to help them move better like on the Dogbones etc.

Also noticed that I couldn't do the wheel nuts up to tight because the wheels were hard to turn if I did they are tight but not mega tight like how I had them before.

Here's how the camber sits.

Please note the camber was like this with the standard hubs were on if anything it's a little more but not a lot.

It took me all day and a little bit last night but I got there in the end had a couple of moments when it was getting on my nerves and swearing I am now one happy bunny.

And other thing some one on here told me you don't need to run a heatsink I tried the car to make sure the wheels go round and they do had it on full whack to get the lube into the moving parts I had the car siting on something I let the car sit for a while I then touched the heatsink and it was hotter than the motor heatsinks are designed to transfer the heat from the motor on to that so I think you do need to run them with brushless motors.

So you revved the car with the wheels off the ground to full load?

 

I dont actually know why im bothering to reply as you obviously know more than us all. if youre getting that much heat the gearing is incorrect. I can make the motor in any of my RCs get hot ebough to require a fan or a heatsink by over gearing immensly. That idea is that i gear properly to avoid that happening....

[Burridge]

Okay are you ready for this guys.

Here is the modifications I had to do to make my front hubs fit.

I had to cut my Dogbones [emoji46].

I didn't really want to cut them but I had to they where rubbing in the drive cups I will get some shorter ones when these ones break[emoji106].

I had to rap insulation tape round my bearings so they would fit in hubs the hole was to big.

I had to put 4 washers top and bottom because the bolts that go through the hubs was rubbing on drive cups.

Then also found that I needed to make my suspension harder to lift the arms up so the dogbones don't rub on the drive cups it still does it a little bit but it is not as bad as it was the wheels do turn around okay now[emoji12].

Also done the suspension the same on the rear to.

Had to put tap round my suspension so the o ring fitted on because it was to big.

Had some fun with this lube [emoji13] no only joking.

Put the lube on moving parts to help them move better like on the Dogbones etc.

Also noticed that I couldn't do the wheel nuts up to tight because the wheels were hard to turn if I did they are tight but not mega tight like how I had them before.

Here's how the camber sits.

Please note the camber was like this with the standard hubs were on if anything it's a little more but not a lot.

It took me all day and a little bit last night but I got there in the end had a couple of moments when it was getting on my nerves and swearing I am now one happy bunny[emoji4].

And other thing some one on here told me you don't need to run a heatsink I tried the car to make sure the wheels go round and they do had it on full whack to get the lube into the moving parts I had the car siting on something I let the car sit for a while I then touched the heatsink and it was hotter than the motor heatsinks are designed to transfer the heat from the motor on to that so I think you do need to run them with brushless motors.

Good effort man, I like the dedication despite the comments, I myself started off with a high end RTR but I've modified lower end cars to better them despite what people would say about it. My Schumacher Riot for instance is fairly badass I'd try and sort that camber out though, it's about as negative as my Mini's back wheels on 8.5J, I can imagine the negative handling effects are even more noticeable on an RC car

Running it on full throttle with no load will make it hotter than it should though, and as said, the gearing plays a big part in the temperature that the motor runs at as it can over work, it shouldn't be running too hot

[XV Pilot]

Also, looking at your car from above, it appears that you have some toe issues. These will become more pronounced if you sort the camber, so I'd recommend adjustable tierods too.

 

Again, I'd suggest having a look at some photos of RC drift setups. Drifters are not afraid to get creative with suspension angles, and some of the tricks they use to get wierd-looking angles on their wheels might be used in reverse to normalise yours.

 

It certainly doesn't look like you are afraid to experiment, so this might be an opportunity come up with something that looks really way-out and interesting, but ends up working well!

 

 

[Noj]

Can folk please stop quoting the original post with the multiple images, there really is no requirement to do so.  In fact, be so kind as to use the edit function and delete it from your posts. 

 

Abhorrent images of incredible bodgery just don't need repeating.

 

Ta 

[Burridge]

Can folk please stop quoting the original post with the multiple images, there really is no requirement to do so.  In fact, be so kind as to use the edit function and delete it from your posts. 

 

Abhorrent images of incredible bodgery just don't need repeating.

 

Ta 

My bad

[ROBSTER 1992]

I know the camber doesn't look rite I actually like the look of it like that I am not that bothered about it the car works and that's all I wanted I will see how I get on with it I might one day sort out the camber.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ROBSTER 1992]

I have now changed the wheel nuts round because I said that I couldn't do them up to tight or the wheels get to tight if I did they are tight but not to tight I have just nipped them up changed them for black ones because the black ones where shorter than the ones that were on it and now they are on the threads more so won't come undone.

Ones that were on it before

The black ones look better they match the wheels.

[NuttyProfessor]

can you adjust the top arms at the diff case at the front to put the camber out? Only other thing you could do is to make a plate coming from the top arm to the hub to make the arm slightly longer so it pushes the top out. Just make sure you make it at least 2-3mm thick so it don't buckle. Could also try swapping the hubs round.

Edited September 22, 2016 by NuttyProfessor

[ROBSTER 1992]

can you adjust the top arms at the diff case at the front to put the camber out? Only other thing you could do is to make a plate coming from the top arm to the hub to make the arm slightly longer so it pushes the top out. Just make sure you make it at least 2-3mm thick so it don't buckle. Could also try swapping the hubs round.

I could do I will have a go one day.

[Noj]

Wheel nuts are flanged for a reason.....just sayin'

[Twist]

15 minutes ago, Noj said:

Wheel nuts are flanged for a reason.....just sayin'

 

Agreed, should be okay IF they are nyloc and he doesn't keep taking them off... Unlikely.

Edited September 22, 2016 by Twist