XMAXX owners thread!

[m4inbrain]

29 minutes ago, SYST3M_OVERIDE said:

Dumb question but can't you just move the tray forward a little, drill new mounting holes and cut the rear of the tray?

 

No idea, i don't have one so i can't check. 

 

Though that all might get postponed now, after finally getting the X-Maxx back together, it appears that my Max6 kicked the bucket. Not 100% certain yet whether or not it actually is the ESC, but so far i've ruled out everything else, not much else to double check. It's like it's browning out - if i leave everything alone, the truck "idles" just fine (fans spinning etc) - but if i give throttle, it starts up and then basically immediately reboots (including LiPo check, the 8 beeps). That's with nothing else connected, no motor fans, no servo - just ESC to receiver. If i connect the servo and wiggle it for long enough, it gives a throttle blip (around a quarter turn on the axles) and then reboots again, you can also hear the motor fans dropping in RPM when i move the servo. 

 

Ruled out receiver by changing from my Noble back to the original radio (plus throttle calibration). 

 

Bit at a loss now, not quite sure how that could've happened. I thought maybe a bad solder joint on the batteries/my new QS8 connectors, but the connectors aren't getting warm either. 

[SYST3M_OVERIDE]

17 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:

 

No idea, i don't have one so i can't check. 

 

Though that all might get postponed now, after finally getting the X-Maxx back together, it appears that my Max6 kicked the bucket. Not 100% certain yet whether or not it actually is the ESC, but so far i've ruled out everything else, not much else to double check. It's like it's browning out - if i leave everything alone, the truck "idles" just fine (fans spinning etc) - but if i give throttle, it starts up and then basically immediately reboots (including LiPo check, the 8 beeps). That's with nothing else connected, no motor fans, no servo - just ESC to receiver. If i connect the servo and wiggle it for long enough, it gives a throttle blip (around a quarter turn on the axles) and then reboots again, you can also hear the motor fans dropping in RPM when i move the servo. 

 

Ruled out receiver by changing from my Noble back to the original radio (plus throttle calibration). 

 

Bit at a loss now, not quite sure how that could've happened. I thought maybe a bad solder joint on the batteries/my new QS8 connectors, but the connectors aren't getting warm either. 

Yep. Sounds like it's faulty. I'd contact Hobbywing about sending in the ESC for their try out & trade program. Not sure where you're located cause it's only valid for US customers only.

 

This is directly from the Hobbywing website:

 

Our mission is to reach more customers so that they can experience our products without breaking banks.

 

TryOut / Trade-in program

 

Send your ESC back to us and you will receive a brand new HOBBYWING ESC at a special price. The upgrade fee of HOBBYWING ESC will be provided via email. 

 

You can send any ESC. a damaged ESC or working, even other brands. We don't care : )  

The offer is valid for North America online store customers only (HobbywingDirect.com)

Email your request to [email protected] . Subject line: Request of HOBBYWING Upgrade program

You will receive a return authorization number along with the return shipping guideline once pre-approved.

Edited March 12, 2023 by SYST3M_OVERIDE

[m4inbrain]

I think that's a US only service. As in, generally - there's no "Hobbywing UK" for me to contact sadly. I might fire them a message, but i don't have high hopes. 

 

I also want a new motor mount - after gearing up, the pins are pretty useless (mesh is a mile and a half off), so i ditched the pins and tried (correction: still trying) to get a decent mesh by just bolting it down in roughly the right position, ain't working and will probably lead to carnage. 

 

Does anyone know if the Vitavon motor mount takes the stock motor? 

[SYST3M_OVERIDE]

2 hours ago, m4inbrain said:

I think that's a US only service. As in, generally - there's no "Hobbywing UK" for me to contact sadly. I might fire them a message, but i don't have high hopes. 

 

I also want a new motor mount - after gearing up, the pins are pretty useless (mesh is a mile and a half off), so i ditched the pins and tried (correction: still trying) to get a decent mesh by just bolting it down in roughly the right position, ain't working and will probably lead to carnage. 

 

Does anyone know if the Vitavon motor mount takes the stock motor? 

Doesn't look like it. You can buy an aluminum face cap for the 1200XL so it can be mounted on normal mounts. WFO sells this cap (WFO cap left). I've thought about getting it so I can use the motor in other vehicles but at about $50 for the unpainted cap and needing to buy extension wires it's about a 3rd the price of a Hobbywing motor of the same size.

[m4inbrain]

Main issue with WFO stuff, as well as Bowhouse etc is that they're not readily available over here - by the time i'd get, for example, a Bowhouse motor mount, it basically doubles in price. $50 endcap ends up being around £80 (after tax, delivery, import), which at the current exchange rate is $98. Which is a lot of coin for what it is. 

 

I'll give it another shot later, others get a reasonable mesh as well so it's not impossible (just incredibly annoying) - and from there, if either the motor/ESC doesn't hold 20/46 (although in regards to the ESC, i could swap an MMX8s in that i got laying somewhere, that should hold it), then it's 1100kv anyway for which i need a new motor mount regardless. 

 

Saves me from wasting time to find a mount that mounts the stock motor, to then replace it with something that holds big power. 

 

That said.. I do have a lathe, that end cap piece doesn't look stupendously complicated. Might make a fun little project. 

[SYST3M_OVERIDE]

1 hour ago, m4inbrain said:

I do have a lathe, that end cap piece doesn't look stupendously complicated. Might make a fun little project. 

That wouldn't be a bad idea considering if it doesn't work out a 1200xl rebuild kit with the end caps is only $15 (#3492).

Edited March 12, 2023 by SYST3M_OVERIDE

[m4inbrain]

1 hour ago, SYST3M_OVERIDE said:

That wouldn't be a bad idea considering if it doesn't work out a 1200xl rebuild kit with the end caps is only $15 (#3492).

 

Cheers, i was thinking earlier that i could do at least bearings in the motor anyway - there's nothing obviously wrong with it, but after 3.5 years a big service won't hurt. Good to see that there's a kit for it. 

[m4inbrain]

Well.. Got the mesh set now, with the help of the optional motor mount washers. 

 

Also "fixed" the Max6, so once the weather finally picks up, off to the beach we go. By fixed i btw mean "actually connect the batteries properly". Turns out QS8 connectors are so stupendously tight that once you've pushed them together and think they're connected, they barely just made contact. You then need the force of twelve elephants and three bulldozers to actually push them together. Took me almost a minute per connector to pry them apart again, i certainly hope that this loosens up a little bit at least. But yeah.. that one was me being stupid. Also not a fan of how tight they are. 

[mydoddy69]

On 12/03/2023 at 17:15, m4inbrain said:

Main issue with WFO stuff, as well as Bowhouse etc is that they're not readily available over here - by the time i'd get, for example, a Bowhouse motor mount, it basically doubles in price. $50 endcap ends up being around £80 (after tax, delivery, import), which at the current exchange rate is $98. Which is a lot of coin for what it is. 

 

I'll give it another shot later, others get a reasonable mesh as well so it's not impossible (just incredibly annoying) - and from there, if either the motor/ESC doesn't hold 20/46 (although in regards to the ESC, i could swap an MMX8s in that i got laying somewhere, that should hold it), then it's 1100kv anyway for which i need a new motor mount regardless. 

 

Saves me from wasting time to find a mount that mounts the stock motor, to then replace it with something that holds big power. 

 

That said.. I do have a lathe, that end cap piece doesn't look stupendously complicated. Might make a fun little project. 

 
The biggest issue with the X Maxx motor mounting isn’t the slop in the mesh it’s actually the heat. It’s sloppy when it’s cold but as it run it’s get hotter thus increasing in size and tightening the mesh. So by setting it like you would say a normal mesh (paper thin) it actually ends up too tight when running. Or at least this has been the case for me so I wouldn’t worry to much about a sloppy mesh. A decent pinion and spur gear will be enough to support it when it’s cold and sloppy 👍

[m4inbrain]

3 minutes ago, mydoddy69 said:

 
The biggest issue with the X Maxx motor mounting isn’t the slop in the mesh it’s actually the heat. It’s sloppy when it’s cold but as it run it’s get hotter thus increasing in size and tightening the mesh. So by setting it like you would say a normal mesh (paper thin) it actually ends up too tight when running. Or at least this has been the case for me so I wouldn’t worry to much about a sloppy mesh. A decent pinion and spur gear will be enough to support it when it’s cold and sloppy 👍

 

Tekno/GDS, so should be good on that front - i did notice that my spur gear has quite a lot of movement (back and forth, as well as twisting), and i can't remember whether or not that's normal. Cheers for pointing that out, i'll keep an eye on it once it gets warmer. Though, with the pin system, i could almost make it skip teeth so that was definitely too loose. 

[ridfrenzy]

Hey dudes,

 

I will be joining this club in a few months and I am just looking into batteries.  I had quick search in this thread and the other threads on here first though 😉

 

I am wondering what mah values you guys run, I was planning on getting a couple of 9000+ batteries as I tend to go for walks with my dog when I go out and I was hoping this would get me to about 45 mins run time?

 

I read that changing the ESC will increase runtime but I was planning to start stock initially.

 

https://dxf-hobby.store/en-gb/collections/hardcase-4s-1/products/cndxf-high-voltage-4s-9200-mah-15-2-v-130c-batteria-lipo-ad-alta-capacita-hardcase-con-xt90-spina-per-1-8-scala-rc-auto-multi-rotore-rc-aeroplano-rc-elicottero-rc-barca

 

These are the ones I am considering at the moment.  Thought I would check in with this thread first though 😉

 

Edited March 22, 2023 by ridfrenzy

[Tadas]

9 hours ago, ridfrenzy said:

Hey dudes,

 

I will be joining this club in a few months and I am just looking into batteries.  I had quick search in this thread and the other threads on here first though 😉

 

I am wondering what mah values you guys run, I was planning on getting a couple of 9000+ batteries as I tend to go for walks with my dog when I go out and I was hoping this would get me to about 45 mins run time?

 

I read that changing the ESC will increase runtime but I was planning to start stock initially.

 

https://dxf-hobby.store/en-gb/collections/hardcase-4s-1/products/cndxf-high-voltage-4s-9200-mah-15-2-v-130c-batteria-lipo-ad-alta-capacita-hardcase-con-xt90-spina-per-1-8-scala-rc-auto-multi-rotore-rc-aeroplano-rc-elicottero-rc-barca

 

These are the ones I am considering at the moment.  Thought I would check in with this thread first though 😉

 

 

Run time depends on your drive pattern - if you go top speed it will drain batteries faster. Can't comment on these, but i get 20-25 mins with my 6700mAh running at low/med speeds. Will these fit in the stock slots or are you planning to do some chopping? 🙂   

[ridfrenzy]

30 minutes ago, Tadas said:

 

Will these fit in the stock slots or are you planning to do some chopping? 🙂   

hah that will be a big fat no to both 😄

 

Well back to googling

Edit: Think I will just go with the 6500's RC Review used them and seem to be decent.  If they don't last long enough I will just buy a second set 😉

Edited March 22, 2023 by ridfrenzy

[SYST3M_OVERIDE]

On 22/03/2023 at 03:28, ridfrenzy said:

I am wondering what mah values you guys run, I was planning on getting a couple of 9000+ batteries as I tend to go for walks with my dog when I go out and I was hoping this would get me to about 45 mins run time?

 

There really aren't many batteries that'll last even 30 mins. You'd have to find some premium packs, gear down the truck so the motor doesn't have to work as hard, make it as light as possible and drive quite slow. The kind of runtime you're looking for is much more in the realm of crawlers that tend to get at least an hour on a pack.

Edited March 24, 2023 by SYST3M_OVERIDE

[SYST3M_OVERIDE]

I've gone stealth. Looks so much better than I thought it would. Kinda wish it had more of a sheen like before I peeled the protective film off. Might have to see what extremely fine sandpaper can do.

 

 

 

Edited March 26, 2023 by SYST3M_OVERIDE

[Kpowell911]

I like that! Looks awesome!

[SYST3M_OVERIDE]

21 hours ago, Kpowell911 said:

I like that! Looks awesome!

Tamiya PS-23. Really annoying that they only sell 100ml cans. Shouldn't have to spend ~$43 for spray paint ($7.75 per can before tax).

Edited March 27, 2023 by SYST3M_OVERIDE

[SYST3M_OVERIDE]

Anyone have a suggestion for decent machined front/rear diff ring and pinion gears? I busted the rear diff ring and pinion after my first outing with the upgraded power. I already tried Hot Racing but the diff output gear didn't fit snug as the hole diameter is ~0.05mm too small for both the front and rear ring gears (had to get a set for the front as well as the rear since its 13/42 vs the stock 11/35).

Edited April 16, 2023 by SYST3M_OVERIDE

[Tadas]

On 16/04/2023 at 13:38, SYST3M_OVERIDE said:

Anyone have a suggestion for decent machined front/rear diff ring and pinion gears? I busted the rear diff ring and pinion after my first outing with the upgraded power. I already tried Hot Racing but the diff output gear didn't fit snug as the hole diameter is ~0.05mm too small for both the front and rear ring gears (had to get a set for the front as well as the rear since its 13/42 vs the stock 11/35).

When i start loosing gears i know i forgot to inspect the cush drive... 

[ridfrenzy]

My Xmaxx arrived today \o/

I have bought a Max 6 ESC and am gonna replace that before I use it (good advice from Kpowell there 😉)  I went for some DXF softcase batteries in the end: https://dxf-hobby.store/en-gb/collections/softcase-4s/products/ukdxf-4s-lipo-battery-14-8v-10000mah-100c-200c-deans-t-xt90-ec5-for-rc-1-8-1-10-car-truck-tank-models-xxmax-8s-arrama?variant=42697256140963 I am hoping to get about 45 mins out of these.   Also got some drivecup sleeves.  Planning to sort it out this weekend as a few more bits from postie to arrive yet.

Planning to go gentle with it in the beginning, no skate parks till I get used to it.  Any tips for a new owner?

[SYST3M_OVERIDE]

On 11/05/2023 at 07:34, ridfrenzy said:

Any tips for a new owner?

Buy a better servo (not the 2085X. It's a $100 POS), replace the servo saver spring with part# 7746X and be ready to buy new tires as it eats the stockers for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Most importantly though...have fun.

[ridfrenzy]

On 14/05/2023 at 04:13, SYST3M_OVERIDE said:

Buy a better servo (not the 2085X. It's a $100 POS), replace the servo saver spring with part# 7746X and be ready to buy new tires as it eats the stockers for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Most importantly though...have fun.

Yeah I was looking at tyres coz I watched many videos and see people with badlands and trenchers but they seem really heavy, saw one video where guy switched and showed the difference in handling and it was quite severe.  Tyres are holding up fine at the moment but I have only been running it on grass near my house, I have been a bit careful when it leaves the ground as I read that that is a big cause of tyres blowing when you get all the power into one wheel.  I don't have any issues with the servo at the mo but I know it will burn out at some point.

I haven't checked yet but not sure if my spur gear has gone though as I lost drive yesterday and had the high whine of the motor not connecting,  I know it is a weak point as well, thought it would last longer than 40 mins though 😄 

 

Still happy I managed to do my first bit of soldering to get the new ESC in even if I put the wrong connectors on first 😄  I definitely did a better job on my second go anyway, was meant to be 🙂

[Kpowell911]

2 hours ago, ridfrenzy said:

Yeah I was looking at tyres coz I watched many videos and see people with badlands and trenchers but they seem really heavy, saw one video where guy switched and showed the difference in handling and it was quite severe.  Tyres are holding up fine at the moment but I have only been running it on grass near my house, I have been a bit careful when it leaves the ground as I read that that is a big cause of tyres blowing when you get all the power into one wheel.  I don't have any issues with the servo at the mo but I know it will burn out at some point.

I haven't checked yet but not sure if my spur gear has gone though as I lost drive yesterday and had the high whine of the motor not connecting,  I know it is a weak point as well, thought it would last longer than 40 mins though 😄 

 

Still happy I managed to do my first bit of soldering to get the new ESC in even if I put the wrong connectors on first 😄  I definitely did a better job on my second go anyway, was meant to be 🙂

Might be the pinion coming loose. Ive had to re threadlock all of mine. 

[ridfrenzy]

1 hour ago, Kpowell911 said:

Might be the pinion coming loose. Ive had to re threadlock all of mine. 

Yeah I am hoping that might be the case, just haven't had chance to look yet 😉

Edit: yep it is just loose, will fix it later

Edited May 15, 2023 by ridfrenzy

[SYST3M_OVERIDE]

On 15/05/2023 at 08:52, ridfrenzy said:

Yeah I am hoping that might be the case, just haven't had chance to look yet 😉

Edit: yep it is just loose, will fix it later

Might want to look at getting machined pinion and spur gears as the stock don't last all that long under hard use. With the stock setup you won't have to worry about the front/rear diff ring and pinion gears though. They hold up perfectly fine. It's only if you throw in a larger motor like a 5687 that you'll have to change those out if you want them to last more than a couple of packs.

Edited May 21, 2023 by SYST3M_OVERIDE