SYST3M_OVERIDE

Might want to look at getting machined pinion and spur gears as the stock don't last all that long under hard use. With the stock setup you won't have to worry about the front/rear diff ring and pinion gears though. They hold up perfectly fine. It's only if you throw in a larger motor like a 5687 that you'll have to change those out if you want them to last more than a couple of packs.

Buy a better servo (not the 2085X. It's a $100 POS), replace the servo saver spring with part# 7746X and be ready to buy new tires as it eats the stockers for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Most importantly though...have fun.

Anyone have a suggestion for decent machined front/rear diff ring and pinion gears? I busted the rear diff ring and pinion after my first outing with the upgraded power. I already tried Hot Racing but the diff output gear didn't fit snug as the hole diameter is ~0.05mm too small for both the front and rear ring gears (had to get a set for the front as well as the rear since its 13/42 vs the stock 11/35).

Tamiya PS-23. Really annoying that they only sell 100ml cans. Shouldn't have to spend ~$43 for spray paint ($7.75 per can before tax).

I've gone stealth. Looks so much better than I thought it would. Kinda wish it had more of a sheen like before I peeled the protective film off. Might have to see what extremely fine sandpaper can do.

There really aren't many batteries that'll last even 30 mins. You'd have to find some premium packs, gear down the truck so the motor doesn't have to work as hard, make it as light as possible and drive quite slow. The kind of runtime you're looking for is much more in the realm of crawlers that tend to get at least an hour on a pack.

That wouldn't be a bad idea considering if it doesn't work out a 1200xl rebuild kit with the end caps is only $15 (#3492).

Doesn't look like it. You can buy an aluminum face cap for the 1200XL so it can be mounted on normal mounts. WFO sells this cap (WFO cap left). I've thought about getting it so I can use the motor in other vehicles but at about $50 for the unpainted cap and needing to buy extension wires it's about a 3rd the price of a Hobbywing motor of the same size.

Yep. Sounds like it's faulty. I'd contact Hobbywing about sending in the ESC for their try out & trade program. Not sure where you're located cause it's only valid for US customers only. This is directly from the Hobbywing website: Our mission is to reach more customers so that they can experience our products without breaking banks. TryOut / Trade-in program Send your ESC back to us and you will receive a brand new HOBBYWING ESC at a special price. The upgrade fee of HOBBYWING ESC will be provided via email. You can send any ESC. a damaged ESC or working, even other brands. We don't care : ) The offer is valid for North America online store customers only (HobbywingDirect.com) Email your request to [email protected] . Subject line: Request of HOBBYWING Upgrade program You will receive a return authorization number along with the return shipping guideline once pre-approved.

Dumb question but can't you just move the tray forward a little, drill new mounting holes and cut the rear of the tray?

Oh. I was about to say, the X Maxx is longer than that lol.

Extend the battery trays of what?

OK guys let's keep this forum positive. Everyone is entitled to their own opinions and choices. Live and learn is a big part of this hobby. Wouldn't be fun otherwise...though our wallets would disagree lol.

I thought at first the XRT looked kinda cool but but the more I study it the less I like it. Never been a fan of truggies and I don't really understand the point. You want to go fast and be stable? Buggy. You want big ground clearance and tons of shock travel for huge jumps? Monster truck. I had an Kraton 6s but I got bored of it within the first few weeks so I sold it.

I have a better idea. Install the Widemaxx kit, throw on XRT shocks and you have a X Maxx/XRT hybrid. Hell of a lot cheaper than buying another $1k vehicle.