Joenitro1993 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 So I just purchased a second hand firestorm, cleaned it up a bit, made it look presentable (it was filth)...I've gone to fire it up and it does start but it will not idle at all. The wheels just spin like mad even after adjusting the idle to a very small (1.5mm) gap. I also think the mesh is set way to close, could this be causing the problem? I don't think it's the clutch because that was one of the first things I checked when I got it. Also when I let it run yesterday even when it wasn't idling and just going on its own with the wheels in the air the engine got crazy hot...maybe I shouldn't have put the wheels off the ground...any suggestions? It was braking okay yesterday as well but after trying to adjust the idle it now just cuts out on braking! I can't really think of what else it could be? Fuel mixture? But which needle to adjust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HYPER-BOY Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 (edited) First thing to do is set to factory settings - I think on these that is Low Speed Flush and High Speed Flush. Then the gap on the carb slider should be around 1mm. Make sure that you servo is adjusted correctly too as this could be opening the slider more than it should be when it is running, that way you will never be able to tune properly. The reason your wheels are spinning is the idle is too high and engaging the clutch - this could be incorrect idle gap on the slider or the bottom end is far too lean. Try factory as above and see what happens. If you need me to elaborate on anything then just ask Good luck. Edited February 4, 2016 by HYPER-BOY 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joenitro1993 Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 Thanks so much, I'll do all of the above, but now there seems to be another problem. The carb slider is staying open (seems to be getting stuck) and doesn't return to its idle position unless the brakes are applied o.O is the idle screw to tight? Or? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joenitro1993 Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 It's getting stuck open when I apply the throttle I should have mentioned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joenitro1993 Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 Also...it was only NOT do this when the idle is set to high, I'm so confused. I think the servo may be out of line like you said. Does it sound like it could be this? (Sorry for the multiple posts) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HYPER-BOY Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Post away! Screw back the idle screw (not all the way out). Take the servo arm off for the throttle/brake.. Make sure on your controller all the points are set to the middle ('0' usually). Switch on your controller and the car, so that the servo finds it's middle position, now out the servo horn back on so the slider is shut, this will mean that the servo and the horn are in correct position. Now turn the idle screw until you see a 1mm gap. Take from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HYPER-BOY Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Unless the servo is shot.. When you open the throttle then let go it should auto go back to middle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caleebra Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Reset all screws to factory and take the servo and all linkages out the equation and control the throttle by hand. Do these things have a spring? Does the slider move freely by hand? Could also be an air leak. But you need to break the system right down and remove as many variables as possible to home in on the issue... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firestorm01 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 3 hours ago, HYPER-BOY said: First thing to do is set to factory settings - I think on these that is Low Speed Flush and High Speed Flush. Then the gap on the carb slider should be around 1mm. Make sure that you servo is adjusted correctly too as this could be opening the slider more than it should be when it is running, that way you will never be able to tune properly. The reason your wheels are spinning is the idle is too high and engaging the clutch - this could be incorrect idle gap on the slider or the bottom end is far too lean. Try factory as above and see what happens. If you need me to elaborate on anything then just ask Good luck. yes the factory settings are as you say flush on both needles! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firestorm01 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 When you have put the needles back to flush on both I would suggest that you retune in 1/16 turns not the hpi recommended 1/8 turns as I found with mine the needles are very sensitive to adjustments. Before all this I would agree with what the others are saying by resetting the throttle linkage and idle ( 1mm ). Whilst I think of it, with regards to the low end needle, some say it not possible to reach this with the engine in car, I can asure you it is possible with a very long shaft flat head screwdriver. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firestorm01 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 If your in doubt of gapping between clutch bell and spur gear, it easy to adjust, slightly loosen the four engine mount screws underneath chassis. Move engine forward to separate the bell and spur. Place a piece of paper between the gearing teeth the push the two back together. Before tightening the four screws spin the spur gear working paper through the gearing teeth a little the tighten screws. Once all tight remove paper and then hold clutch bell amd try moving spur gear, there should be a very small amount of play between them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joenitro1993 Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 19 hours ago, firestorm01 said: If your in doubt of gapping between clutch bell and spur gear, it easy to adjust, slightly loosen the four engine mount screws underneath chassis. Move engine forward to separate the bell and spur. Place a piece of paper between the gearing teeth the push the two back together. Before tightening the four screws spin the spur gear working paper through the gearing teeth a little the tighten screws. Once all tight remove paper and then hold clutch bell amd try moving spur gear, there should be a very small amount of play between them. Thanks for the info everyone, my pullstart broke as it was looking quite old and worn out anyway….just ordered as new one so just gonna wait for that and see what I can do afterwards….In relation to changing the mesh, I went to do it and it seems that the guy before me has actually rounded off the hex nuts on the bottom?! So no chance of fixing that issues I don't think… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caleebra Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 You can get the nuts out. Few things to try, try tapping a torx bit in there with a small hammer... needs to be big enough to swage in to the rounded metal, so slightly bigger than the Allen key you were using no. Only turn with bit driver when you're sure it's got some purchase. Vise grips are another way. Otherwise it's drill the head of the bolt off. Be careful with this one so you don't damage the slots on the chassis. You'll then need some new screws... Persevere! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joenitro1993 Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 wow, thats great thanks. I didn't think there would be a way to sort it! I will go with the torx bit first Before I try this though, is it actually a mesh problem I'm having? The car is fairly hard to push, it won't keep rolling when I push and the pinion and spur gear make a weird whining noise when it's pushed or when the engine is revved. Does this sound like a badly set mesh to you? Thanks again! 4 hours ago, caleebra said: You can get the nuts out. Few things to try, try tapping a torx bit in there with a small hammer... needs to be big enough to swage in to the rounded metal, so slightly bigger than the Allen key you were using no. Only turn with bit driver when you're sure it's got some purchase. Vise grips are another way. Otherwise it's drill the head of the bolt off. Be careful with this one so you don't damage the slots on the chassis. You'll then need some new screws... Persevere! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joenitro1993 Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 P.s: I have loosened the brake disc plates so that's one potential problem ruled out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joenitro1993 Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 Also, thanks to everyone for your replies! Been a massive help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 10 minutes ago, Joenitro1993 said: wow, thats great thanks. I didn't think there would be a way to sort it! I will go with the torx bit first Before I try this though, is it actually a mesh problem I'm having? The car is fairly hard to push, it won't keep rolling when I push and the pinion and spur gear make a weird whining noise when it's pushed or when the engine is revved. Does this sound like a badly set mesh to you? Thanks again! Mesh is definitely too tight. Would be worth checking the clutch shoes and spring as well. These could be pretty worn if the mesh is too tight. If you are having problems with the screws, best option is to use a dremel and the grind wheel to put a flat head through the bolt, then unscrew it using a flat head screw driver. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firestorm01 Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 with a dremel cutting disc you could cut across the rounded Allen heads then undo them with a flat head screwdriver 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joenitro1993 Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 Nice, thanks guys, the dremel sounds like my best bet, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firestorm01 Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 8 minutes ago, Joenitro1993 said: Nice, thanks guys, the dremel sounds like my best bet, It is what I did when I had to remove mine!!! Just have new ones on order so that you replace with decent screws!!! For the screws the hpi part number is 94554. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joenitro1993 Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 1 hour ago, firestorm01 said: It is what I did when I had to remove mine!!! Just have new ones on order so that you replace with decent screws!!! For the screws the hpi part number is 94554. Thank you, you wouldn't know anything about the brake on the firestorm would you? I've just sorted the mesh out the way you suggested, worked perfectly But the next problem is my brakes just don't work, on the firestorm I purchased from new I can push the brass arm all the way in (nearly) but on this one I can't budge it a mm….the brakes don't wonk at all unless I really push the linkage hard with my hand….any idea what it could be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joenitro1993 Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 work** Also the arm brake linkage arm does not seem to reset itself to neutral? Just stays in a braking position after applying brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firestorm01 Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 10 hours ago, Joenitro1993 said: work** Also the arm brake linkage arm does not seem to reset itself to neutral? Just stays in a braking position after applying brakes. sounds like it needs stripping down and cleaning out, but I you can post some pics I can get a better understanding of the problem glad you got mesh sorted!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joenitro1993 Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 On February 6, 2016 at 8:18 AM, firestorm01 said: sounds like it needs stripping down and cleaning out, but I you can post some pics I can get a better understanding of the problem glad you got mesh sorted!! Thanks for the eagerness to help but turned out the engine was running way to lean causing the carb slide to heat up and stick inside of the housing…Fixed it by richening the little guy and now it runs fine, not more sticking 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djyjrlz Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 I know you've mentioned that you've checked the clutch but it's with re checking. notorious clutches on these firestorms and causes all kinds of issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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