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Orlandoo 1/35 Trail Truck Build Thread


johninderby

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Anyone want three Losi1/24 SCT wheels & tyres really cheap? Tried modifying one of the wheels but wouldn't fit quite right (bit wobbly) and the offset was wrong anyway.

 

Back to the drawing board. :banghead:

 

Thought about the Losi micro crawler 7mm wheel hexes and wondered if they would fit. They do fit perfectly on the shaft and the Losi nuts fit but the threaded part is too short to fit through the wheel. The flats on the 1/35 shaft would make it easy to drill a small hole for the pins for the hexes though. I remembered seeing some micro crawler wheel extenders with barrel nuts on eBay and found them again and ordered a set. Made by the same man who made the frame rails for my monster Landy. Machined from Delrin so will be easy to modify if required.

 

So it looks like a mod to allow using standard Losi micro crawler wheels is possible. :hahadance:

 

BTW I have ordered another trail truck kit that will be modded quite a bit. Standard free shipping used so it may take a few weeks to get here.

 

      John

 

Axle-1_zpsg1hgnx74.jpg

 

Axle-2_zpsn2j6oid9.jpg

 

Wheel-Xtenders-MC_zpstvuzfipt.jpg

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Agreed any news on this mate I've been waiting to see it built lol. I understand good things come in good time tho. I just hope it's still the main focus atm mate.

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Managed to find a suitable servo from HobbyKing, but it runs on 2.7v to 4.2v but I want to use standard radio gear. Finally managed to find a local supplier who has a micro voltage converter that takes 4v to 11v imput and gives 3.3v output so I'll be able to fit this between the servo and RX. All the suitable sized servos I was able to find are low voltage.

If the bits arrive Tuesday I'll be able to get the first stage of the build done.

John

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maybe have a look at the parkzone stuff buddy.

 

http://www.parkzone.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMAS2000

 

tiz the smallest servo i know and have used myself in micro aircraft but again its a 2.7 - 5v job (these ran with a 1s lipo power source feed)

run a bit like a scanner bed, on a threaded rail and the servo horn travels along it depending on current direction.

 

its running 1s lipo right ? so a nanotech 600 or two

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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No it's a 2s LiPo. They do a step down servo lead that I should have ordered but don't want to wait for it to arrive from China so I'm making my own. Mine will have a plug in step down converter though so i'll be able to plug in a converter with variable output for 4.2v if I want more power out of the servo. One of the things that you find out when you've actualy got your hands on the kit.

So get their servo and step down lead if you order the kit.

John

Edited by johninderby
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I'm getting close I have the money waiting but want to follow you first and see what struggles you come across.

I'm glad it's you doing this you go all in with your builds so it will be a great help.

Have you found any spares to fit it?

Body shells will we have any options? Landy mayb.

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Altho it comes with a very cool body being hard body too I bet people will be able to mod them pretty nice.

The mods they did to xmods shell was crazy using filler to add body kits ect.

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The 1/24 Landy 109 or 110 is the right wheelbase.

Waiting for the wheel wideners to arrive from Spain which should allow a simple mod to convert to a 7mm hex fitting so some Losi wheels among others will fit. That would made it possible to fit quite a few different 1/24 or 1/25 pick-up truck kit bodies and have decent size wheels.

This Austrian eBay seller has the Italeri 1/24 Land Rover 109 kit that I used for my monster Landy. Shipping is

Edited by johninderby
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How you getting on with this?

S l o w l y

It's all laid out on the table ready to start but with getting the house ready to sell no free time at all the last few days. I'm taking this aft off however. Need a break from the renovation / decorating stuff so first build pics to follow later this aft.

John

Edited by johninderby
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Well made a start although think the build is going to take longer than expected. With all the parts being so tiny everything takes several times longer than a 1/10 would. Some of the parts are so small it makes it tricky to see what you're doing. The parts are very well organized though into lots of small bags with part numbers on the bags. Only take the parts out that you need for each step as the screws in particular are so small you'd be hard pressed to tell some of them apart.

Step one is assembling the diffs. Fairly simple although you must be sure to seat the small bearing for the gear shaft properly into the housing or the two halves of the diff housing won't fit together. The housing is held together with two screws which have to be screwed in just right to hold. It's almost as if they have to be at just the right angle. I had to re-insert them a few times until they held properly. Once the hubs are in place though the screws don't matter.

Then it's assemble the hubs and knuckles. The microscopic screws that hold the hubs on are a bit of a challenge to get started. I found the screws would just sit on the end of the screwdriver so that you could guide the screw into the hole. Be prepared for it to take a few goes to accomplish this though. The ball links are incredibly tiny but easy enough to screw into place if you just run the included drill trough the hole first to clear out any flash first. Dog-bones etc.go together in the normal way. One difficult part though is fitting the knuckles. There are molded pins top and bottom that snap into the hubs and a bit tricky to get them to go in. You have to insert the pin on one side first, make sure the dog-bone is aligned with the cup and then while levering up part of the hub with a fingernail force the other pin into place. This could take you a while to get the hang of it. :banghead:

It is fully ball-raced BTW.

John

Orlandoo-Build-1_zpsz38rc5pz.jpg

Orlandoo-Build-2_zpsaeiessqa.jpg

Orlandoo-Build-3_zpsihxbngdh.jpg

Orlandoo-Build-4_zpsghsehzna.jpg

Orlandoo-Build-5_zpsblzgunc3.jpg

Edited by johninderby
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Axles completed. :hahadance:

 

Servo and mount fitted to front axle. Straight forward except the servo mount didn't have the holes drilled for the ball links. Just small dimples to mark the hole positions so some careful drilling needed. No problems except for handling those tiny, tiny screws, but you'd better get used to it if you want to build this kit. Do remember to fit the ball races inside the hubs BEFORE fitting the hubs.

 

     John

 

Orlandoo-Build-6_zpsmywcwx0o.jpg

 

Orlandoo-Build-7_zpswjygxxop.jpg

 

When I say tiny screws I mean tiny. :shockingscary:

 

TinyScrew_zpsc3wlxs58.jpg

 

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We have links :yes:

 

Boring little job making up the suspension and steering links. Only problem was on the rear axle where one of the screws holding the link mount bracket fell out. Hole must have been sightly oversize. Fortunately had a couple of tiny mounting screws that came with the servo and replaced the link bracket screws with them. Only slightly bigger but do grip better.

 

Next onto the gearbox and motor.

 

     John

 

Orlandoo-Build-8_zpsfhaebdow.jpg

Edited by johninderby
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