turok007 Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/32676-dsci3364/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fornowagain Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Ok once again. Have an YXL kit incoming, ordered a QUICRUN-WP-8BL150 & Castle 1515. Looking at a Savox SV-1270TG for a water-proof ish 400oz servo. Apart from the Hot Racing YEX4801 steering bellcrank, anything else a must to fit from the get go for durability? I'd read a few people had damaged the shock towers and shock caps were a bit weak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carpmart Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 I'm waiting on mine being delivered (tomorrow I hope) I'm going to be using a Castle 2200kv motor and QUICRUN WP 150Amp ESC with a Savox SW1210SG Waterproof servo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turok007 Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 Ok once again. Have an YXL kit incoming, ordered a QUICRUN-WP-8BL150 & Castle 1515. Looking at a Savox SV-1270TG for a water-proof ish 400oz servo. Apart from the Hot Racing YEX4801 steering bellcrank, anything else a must to fit from the get go for durability? I'd read a few people had damaged the shock towers and shock caps were a bit weak. as for shock caps people have broke them but you get some spares in the box. the bell crank is sort of needed and im thinking of changing the motor mount. but i might just wait and see if it does holds up. i have added a longer screw to the rear gearbox so the shell has something proper to hook onto while being held up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fornowagain Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 (edited) So worth changing the steering servo saver inc crank or just the floppy crank? Looking at these caps. Motor mount Edited March 9, 2015 by fornowagain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turok007 Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 well im going to change just the middle bit for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 That's a nice 8x8 you've got there Yeti looks like nice too, not something I thought I'd like but they're growing on me. Shame about the price tag :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turok007 Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 yup the 8x8 was removed from the shelf. i had forgot how big it is lol as for the yeti i only got it as it seemed a little different also wanted to see if it was better than the revo/summit platform for handling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Glad to see she's not dusty at least Thought provoking theory really. It should be for the price. Although I can't see why it won't come down a price a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-BEZ- Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Just finished building an XL Yeti. I have to admit they come with the worst manuals I have ever come across. Descriptions of parts are either missing or just wrong in places so it took much longer than I would have liked to assemble properly ........ that and de burring >9000 plastic parts lol But on the proside they look sooo damn pretty: Just a crying shame its not mine lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turok007 Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 same here a lot of time wasted just rechecking the manual because of all the mistakes. so is that xl for a forum member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-BEZ- Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Ikr there were loads of wrong screw sizes ......... and my personal favourite ..... telling you to put a M3 nut on a M4 threaded pivot pin lol Yes its for a forum member, so im sure you will see lots of it in the future. The chassis has a fair bit of slop in places and I needed to use a few of my shims for the wheels hubs to get them perfect. but then again this is a offroad chassis and to that point a bit of slop isnt a bad thing. I can see the point about the ackerman link bar as that could be a tiny bit more beefier but I suppose it depends on how you drive the truck to what mods are worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carpmart Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 same here a lot of time wasted just rechecking the manual because of all the mistakes. so is that xl for a forum member. 'Tis mine! Its bloody loverly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ostewart Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 looks awesome!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turok007 Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 'Tis mine! Its bloody loverly! are we going to see some under the bonnet pics lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fornowagain Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 (edited) Dhawk steering assembly in person, very nice. NeuCastle 1515/1y 2200KV+Hobbywing QUICRUN-WP-8BL150 Edited March 17, 2015 by fornowagain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turok007 Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 do you have any pictures of the parts fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fornowagain Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Nope, loads of bits and no car kit, sitting in customs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fornowagain Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) Just working my way through this kit slowly modding here and there, couple of tips. Don't use the stock bearing's they're horrible. There's reports of some excessive end float in the drive shaft. 4mm in one case, if the plastic sleeve AX31000 #1 is too short it allows either of the output drive cups to touch the gearbox. Mine was minimal and easily fixed with a 6 (act 5.8mm)x 10 x 0.4mm shim, leave a small 0.2mm end float on the shaft. Slipper is not much good imo, aluminium will gall up fast and you'll end up cranking it down after a bit. Then expect diff problems. Get a Robinson's Gen3, easy to fit with minimal modding. It's a 64T so helps clear the drive cup, needs a 14T pinion to keep the drive ratio. Really nice, allows fine adjustment of the slipper and it works. The rear drive shaft twists easily. Find something solid @ 6.25mm rod/dowel etc, make sure it's a good fit and insert it in the hollow shaft, cut it a little long so you can pull it out if needs be. It'll reinforce the walls as they flex and stop them collapsing inwards. Edited March 31, 2015 by fornowagain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turok007 Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 thanks for sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fornowagain Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 (edited) Got a little time to work on the kit. Batteries and esc soldered and fitted. Shimmed the rear diff, remove play in the bulkhead. Used some o-rings to remove the drive shaft slop. 3rd channel led lights. Plastidip 34kg servo. Edited April 11, 2015 by fornowagain 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fornowagain Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Cover from ebay for Savage keeps the stones out of the tray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mexxan Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) Great thread with loads tips. I'm thinking bout picking up an XL kit but not much on here about how they run. Any opinions of how any XL owners have found it? I've only got local parks and a but of street running. Had a savage flux for general bashing if it's similar. Handling looks all over the shop though, especially the steering with loads play? Edited July 1, 2015 by Mexxan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mond Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) I haven't got a Savage but I've seen how people treat them and how they stand up and the YXL can't really compete with that level of bashing. I wince when mine cartwheels but nothing broke yet (apart from some swap bar arms) doing it and seems to hold up fairly well but I've been quite conservative. I'd probably take more risks with it if parts and hopups were more easily available in the UK. It's hilarious fun to drive though. It will traction roll fairly easily until you get used to it but it eats up gravel and wet grass with ease and handles pretty nicely over rough terrain. It's no LCG SCT or buggy but that isn't really the point. It does need a bit of space to run though, it's pretty big and I wouldn't want to hit anything with it at full pelt. It might be you're watching videos of the RTR which has no sway bar and being run on 6S which gives the impression of bad handling? The kit version comes with a ton of upgrades including the rear sway bar which is a must. The steering does have some play but I replaced both the steering and servo saver with a GPM one from Asiatees and it's relatively solid but has some play. You also get lots of shims so you can get rid of most of the play that way. You don't need to change much out of the box but the DHawk front bulkhead/diff housing is a worth while investment and some people have found the shocks leak a little. The most common breakage is the shock caps and the unsealed bearings (when run on 6S) and many replace the steering rack and servo saver too. I replaced all of mine with the Fast Eddy set and did a bunch of other upgrades which are nice but probably not needed. If you run 6S you'll kill the diffs, crown gear and pinion pretty quick though. I ran mine for about 3 minutes on 6S and went back to 4S. What does it for me is the scale look and how it looks when it drives. People stop and watch when they see it and kids immediately ask their parents for one. Edited July 1, 2015 by mond 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mexxan Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Cheers mond - great to get your insight. It's sounds about right for me. Shame about the diffs - one thing I really liked on the Savage. It'll mainly be street running so maybe 6s won't be as harsh? I don't quite get the traction roll - is that something inherent from rock crawling - super stiff swaybar to lock it totally, or am I missing the point - is it a feature? I am clueless when it comes to crawling. Going from Baja days, is shimming the crap out of the steering / wheels an option? Totally agree with the detail, it's what sucking me in and really interested in a brand I haven't tried before. Just going on the vids I've seen it looks very light and agile compared to my 5ive and Blackout - gotta make sure adjust for the mass compared to those two. Hope close to Savage toughness as some YouTube vids bash the s**t to of it without major damage. But some forum post talk about it stripping gears in 15 mins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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