banners Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 11 minutes ago, Tamiyacowboy said: i am sure this is the part mazyie is missing, its the belt pully and tensioner plate unit, Yep, our printers are similar to that but as Vr5fx said, we have no tensioner on these I3's. Mayzie, Mayzie, trying not to go crazee! What parts are you missing pal? Now there's a few of us with a bit more experience I'm sure we can get you up and running? Tamiya, well miffed for you with your unit, you try to do the right thing and it keeps biting you on the behind. Fingers crossed it gets better :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Another cool Print find. as parents we have all purchased the kids one of those little flod up scooters and been forced to drag them home when coming home from school run, however now with winter at hand it is time for us the ADULTS to have some fun ....... well ok bigger kids and maybe your children , those little scooters dont work in snow, but using this little 3d print you can now own a snow scooter. enjoy and make your childs face light up with a fairly awesome stocking filler http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42090 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashleysmith Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Does anyone use repetier host? ive finally got my makibox "working" and by working I mean the printer head is melting the PLA correctly (currently heated to 250deg... Though I'm 100% sure I trust the head) and the filament isn't jamming (just the usual makibox issues) my current fine tuning issue is I think with repetier host. While printing the head seems to offset itself... I have no idea why... But check out my Vader Buddha (from thingiverse), any ideas guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 4 hours ago, Vr5fx said: That is what mine looks like. In other news. I'm going to give Simplify3d another go. Didn't work well for me last time. Thats the bits. If you could make one it'd be grand. Tam offered before (of which i am still thankful!) but i was hoping the seller would come through with the goods, turns out he isnt now. Also spoke to aliexpress and it seems unlikely ill get anything back as i accepted the dispute resolution, assuming he would send the bits which he hasnt. Still they have been really helpful so far so you never know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 (edited) Wobble. I'll get something sorted ASAP bud. I'm printing at the moment so I will get it on next. Edited November 17, 2015 by Vr5fx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Cheers, Pm me your Paypal and ill sort you out. and Holy wall of repost batman. I was still sure it didnt post as i was returning 30 mons after "Attempting to post" and my post still wasnt there........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 lol gotta few mega posts for the mods to clean up for us. me an banners sorta made the forum go a bit wonkey. im just up, had a rough old night , pains in highly unsual places n feeling very clammy n gammy. but im still ere. not yet gone to read my amazon mails see whats going on. Makiebot i think your running to hot on pla, your melting it and its staying to hot, then when the nozzle passes back over that area again the lower layer melts with the upper layer put down and things get a bit blobby and not to nice. ........ First off lets get you printing a simple object, find a simple vase thingiverse have a couple called scripted vase. there should be two models in the thingiverse page so download both. PLA melts around the 180-210c , i know on my ctc printer it will stop pushing plastic if the extruder temp drops below 176c ( this is my minimum extruder temp, it maybe differnet on other machines but mine fails to extrude at 176c but it will extrude plastic at 178c so here we take that number and remeber it, we are going to make sure we dont extrude under that temp ever. IF your having problems start up high say around the 230-240c area on heat and start to drop it down 5c each step, we want to get that plastic so its not liquid runny but a sticky gooey stream, it depends on the filament but we should be able to get that hot end down to around 210c and still extrude plastic, and let me say 210 is a more healthy temp for your hotend heater cartridge. once we have the printer extruding those pla filaments and its a nice medium heat like around the 200 mark we can start to fine tune it. Having the hot end melt the plastic less is going to be better we will now extrude palstic at a rate thats ideal for laying down and cooling quicker. remember those models the scripted vases, load one up , use these settings ( no extra walls - 0% infill - and your print speed to 37mm/s ) we are not looking for world speed records here we leave that to bez and the rossa guys !! , the model will take around an hour to print, its a small thing but its quality were after. so when its done take it off the table and have a look over. it should look kinda pucker and sweet. AREAS TO NOTE ....... does it have spaces or dribbles in the layers goes from a solid to dashes of plastic like this ------ - - - - - - - - ----------- , this is a sign of tension on the filament being pulled of the roll. if you find some layers are overhanging, they kinda start to sag and go all looopy , this is a cooling thing. PLA likes to be cooled so its nice and cool when the next layer is put down. i cheated here and used a paper straw to direct my breath onto the object printing ( the top layer ) and this cooling soon sorted out my loopy saggy prints but not ideal blowing through a straw for say 6hr print jobs. so i printed a cooling duct to do this job for me. Budda is best printed at around a 0.2mm layer height , and slowly with cooling. the smaller budda is and the more hotter the hotend budda tends to start to remelt under the hotend heat, so scale him up so the base is 40mm - 60mm wide, just scale him up a little ( 40mm base gives a nice hand hold model and is large enough to cool down as its printing, but remember its not about speed, so slow print budda. and use my trick with the paper straw tube and direct some air onto that budda if need be. just blow through thepaper tube not super hard but enough so you can feel the rush of air, direct that to where just behind the nozzle / just infront as it lays plastic do this for around 4-8 layers then stop. when the model comes off the table remeber where you started adding that flow of air ( try this when the head starts to print or when you get to buddas belly) you will notice a difference in the layers, those cooled layers look more better you may even find theres a visual BAND line for the layers you added air cooling to. and you will notice the finish is a lot better, more tighter. So aim to get that temp down from them high 240-250c temps, we usually melt abs at those heat ranges, and scale budda up a fraction he is a pain in the rear to print small ( i know myself and have a budda that looks just like yours lol ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 While I do some measuring. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banners Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Dare I bust the thread again? lol What on earth happened there?? AshleySmith, double check you're not loosing steps on the axis that's slipping too. You may need to eek the current up to the stepper motor just a smidge! It's a little difficult to see what's happening with that clear filament. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Designed and printed these today. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banners Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 I've just this minute found these - sorry! I've been frantically looking as I remember seeing them. Good job Vr5fx! I've got a single unit (from that link) being printed to see about fit. Us Hesine users need to find as much as we can - there's so many variants it's mind boggling! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 10 minutes ago, banners said: I've just this minute found these - sorry! I've been frantically looking as I remember seeing them. Good job Vr5fx! I've got a single unit (from that link) being printed to see about fit. Us Hesine users need to find as much as we can - there's so many variants it's mind boggling! Omg lol! I looked for ages. But that has a different name to ours, so explains why I couldn't find it. Only took around 15 minutes to measure and design them though, so not too bad. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banners Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 I've been playing about with tinkercad, bit restrictive but still useful. I want to try the E3D style Chinese Extruders but finding something to fit these is a bit of a pita! So... I've used another users work and done these mount plates, just need to get around to actually trying them then maybe making my first upload to Thingiverse? Exciting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Eur printer will replace broken and faulty printer , WOOOOHOOOOOOOOOO !!!!!!!!! BUT AMAZON says NO....... you cannot return product because its 30 day return policy is over ( ended 30th october) , i have the company saying yeah we will replace it and amazon refusing flat broke to not allow a return. spent a week bouncing mails to china talking to CTC themselves that say the product has a fault and should be replaced with immediate effect yet amazon refuse to allow me to return the machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banners Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Yet Amazon usually have excellent customer services. Damn annoying to say the least. How is it you only got 30 days to return it ? We get 12 months guarantee unless it was a refurbished product etcetera... Was the seller the UK agent for CTC or ctc themselves? Is it possible to deal direct with them and ignore Amazon in this instance? It's getting rather silly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 well it works out amazon try to bypass the sale of goods act but UK law is UK law and ............. as of now i am printerless, amazon soon changed the tone once they see my mails to and from the ctc company , who expressed the product was faulty when delivered, and would return and replace goods without charge as should be with a full warenty. however amazon tried the get outta jail free card and well alcatraz they aint no escape from. i pointed out sales of goods act and amazon and ctc are at faulty and should work together to fix the current problem. amazon went away for like 2 mins and returned via phone. they have refunded the £299.00 pounds back to my account and will pick up the dead printer on monday ( giving me time to find packing box and get it ready for collection) BUT i am still out of pocket, i spent 60 quid on filament and have nothing but wonkey prints and i still have a kilo and a half of unused filament and a hole in my wallet as its no use to me what so ever without a printer. amazon then tells me i can reorder the same printer as they are instock ( yet they will not send a replacement to cover the faulty one ) so now im up shizzle creek without a freaking boat let alone a paddle. they expect me to buy the same printer again, but can i risk that, one has already been delivered with a fault from the very start and what happens if a new one starts to do the exact same thing as the broken one. where do i stand then same week of emails to china then a hardball stance with amazon just to get them to see the error of their ways. do not know what to do now, i wanted a printer, i owned a printer, the printer broke and they want me to buy the exact same freaking printer again. good thing is i have my £300 quid back ( well thats if they do refund me i have to wait untill next wedensday to find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Personally I would take the £300 and leave it at that. Obviously they aren't going to refund you materials you purchased on top of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex97 Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 3 minutes ago, smeghead28 said: Personally I would take the £300 and leave it at that. Obviously they aren't going to refund you materials you purchased on top of that. They might if they were ordered together but I don't think the law said that they have to so it would be a gesture of good will on their behalf if they did refund you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 (edited) here is what i am going to do. re-order the same printer. as i loved it personaly. it was small and easy for me to move about ( im refraned from lifting more than 10kg for long periods because of this iffy ticker in my chest) think about having to move your prusa every time you want to use it from the storage area to the main room ( its niegh impossible ) so you can see why its more suitable for me, its got problems but its in warenty so i will just return each one that fails and update the amazon review with my problems and info on them. in the end amazon or the company will pull a finger out and sort stuff out, either remove the product totally or sort out the mess. they rely on good feedback to get customers to click that buy it tab. think about it if i break one each month for twelve months thats a lotta cash being lost thats 3,600 quid a year lost from product return and refund replacements, and if they break before 6 months the companys have to accept it was a manufacturing fault and did not manifest untill now. after 6 months its for the consumer to prove it was a manufacturing fault when it was first purchased. Lets be fair mine didnt work exactly right from the start so that my back line 5 defence sorted and i have SOGA on my side as my striker anyways. one day i would get a printer that worked and did not error out or have no problems a kinda luck of the draw. i also been offered a prusa i3 but again its cura and my pc dont run cura or makerware, so im stuck to replicatorg and skienforge. where i3's run cura and whatever slicer Edited November 18, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 2 minutes ago, Tamiyacowboy said: here is what i am going to do. re-order the same printer. as i loved it personaly. it was small and easy for me to move about ( im refraned from lifting more than 10kg for long periods because of this iffy ticker in my chest) think about having to move your prusa every time you want to use it from the storage area to the main room ( its niegh impossible ) so you can see why its more suitable for me, its got problems but its in warenty so i will just return each one that fails and update the amazon review with my problems and info on them. in the end amazon or the company will pull a finger out and sort stuff out, either remove the product totally or sort out the mess. they rely on good feedback to get customers to click that buy it tab. Any chance you can jump ahead and stop the same thing from happening to this one? I haven't seen the printer properly, but could you make supports of some kind? Today I'm printing spool holders and stuff. For my many spools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 2 minutes ago, Vr5fx said: Any chance you can jump ahead and stop the same thing from happening to this one? I haven't seen the printer properly, but could you make supports of some kind? Today I'm printing spool holders and stuff. For my many spools. i printed out new axis blocks to remove the old wooden ones that let the bed poles wobble. i added a stabilizer to the top of the bed runners and a 5x10x5 bearing to carry the tip of the drive screw and stop it flopping about and moving around 24/7 , i got round to making a full y-z cable chain run and clips then the y-x axis crushed the wires so much they broke inside the reason why the xy axis now fails to stop itself , no switch no stopping. the wires conenct intermittent. i spent more times adjusting the bed level from the arms sagging, any heat at all and those arms become all floppy. i can very very lightly touch the bed and the table drops over 2mm on a corner, thats how bad it got. and something was wrong else where, all vertical outside walls had a 25-30 degree slope-slant to them. at first it was not noticable to the eye but it got worse and worse. but you can see im kinda stuck, i can get a prusa but im bottlenecked by software restraints , where if i run a flashforge/makerbot or a clone i am ok on all fronts and its the moving the printer around. my room aint very big, people touch things they shouldnt and i cannot leave it printing alone without worry someone may poke around while on a print run job. plus the pc that runs the printer is in my room. i do not use sd card because its trebble the work, import to blender, fix model, export as stl, import to printer ware, setup code and peramiters, slice said file if no errors save file as an x3g and export to sd card. The pc way is this, import it, fix it, export it, import it slice it build it. no faffing around with this save as a x3g then export to sd then go and shove it in. ist just bam bam built this thing now ok. i took off all the parts i fitted and put the originals on, the left and right bed poles move 2mm each way in the socket ( left right front back) the bed screw drive sways right by over 3cm and wobble back and fourth by about 5-8mm , so much so it nearly slams the bed endstop itself all that movement go removed with the bearing stabilizer. i know it had faults but im ready for them this time i think. if not i will end up stepping away from 3d printing and likes for good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 That is fair enough bud. I haven't got my printer linked to my PC, I use the SD card, which has its pains, but it isn't that bad. I can design something in SketchUp, export it as a STL, open it in Cura and then export it to SD. It would probably be easier to have it connected, but it works as is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banners Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Once bitten Twice shy... Good to hear they've seen sense and you've got your money back. You're wiser for the experience at the very least. Is there another option available to you? I know the frame around your printer makes it easier to handle but could you bolt a different model to a desk/bedside cabinet or something else on wheels to aid moving between sites? Good luck with what ever you decide to do and I'm sure we all hope the next printer is more reliable - 1 month is out of order no matter where the unit is from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rushboy2004 Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Hi Just wondered if you guys have any thoughts on these printers. http://www.ebuyer.com/708312-xyz-printing-da-vinci-junior-3d-printer-3f1j0xeu00e http://www.theinquirer.net/inquirer/review/2434469/xyzprinting-da-vinci-jr-3d-printer-review Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 well amazon decided to bump the price of the printer up to £330 , very nice of them as yesterday they had them still at £300. have seen a prusa steel frame I3 , the lcd is in some little box beside the right hand side of the printer ( not ontop of the frame like the hesine) but again its that cheap chinese fake ATMEGA and the Faked 1.4 ramps board. and its a wanhao printer, and that wanhao also has a dual extruder printer exactly like mine aka its just rebranded OEM printers, ctc dont make them wanhao dont make them either they are some OEM printer then rebranded and twisted to differnet forms, ie metal frame - wood frame - acrylic frame. reprap style or makerbot/flashforge. company is uk based thats selling them, but i bet they aint built in the uk. and being a prusa you expect to build it right. oh no these ones are ready built and then boxed up lol. thats your prusa i3 sat right infront of you already built thrown in a box and slowboat container shipped to the uk, stuffed into some odd sod shops like maplins and likes and sold. thing is there aint no repair center, and if your sending it back your just gonna get the same thing back. those davinci's and tiny things to bedsize is small so that means your somewhat held up becaause of a small build area, my old printer had a 225x145x145 bed size and i still struggled because some objects were just to big , you can print a vase a tiny bit smaller to fit a build space but you cannot do the same to something that has to be a certain scale ie a single part to a mask or helmet, or a large statue piece . so what you need to do is decide on how bigger things you want to print. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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