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Tamiya 4x4 Bruiser.


ibo

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Whoops,to eager with the buy button cheers for the info guys going to have wait and see now :whistling: I have also bought a set of high lift leaf springs,I have a Sawback and replaced the stock wheels with the Titus beadlocks and yes the Geolander tyres :yes:

 

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Edited by ibo
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I was looking at the Sawbacks the other day. They look very nice to me, how do you rate it, how does it compare to Axials? 

 

I really like Gmade stuff, it's extremely well presented, the quality isn't quite as good as it looks but with a little more improvement they could be right up there. I have the shocks on my WT01 and for example there are parts that are great, and then things like the piston rods on the shock are very average, whereas Tamiya and others have super duper coated pistons etc. I love some of their ideas like the pneumatic tyres but then again I've read a lot have had problems with them.

 

I was thinking Gmade Bighorn tyres for mine, any idea what they are like?

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/gmade-bighorn-rock-crawling-tyres-2-/rc-car-products/385454

 

gm70001ms.jpg

 

These also look interesting;

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/gmade-ts02-scale-shock-silver-90mm-2-/rc-car-products/385332

 

Thinking maybe you could reduce the leaf spring and fit some dampers with internal springs. But honestly I think the issue with the Bruisers front suspension is there is no travel before the front prop hits the gearbox.

gm20902.jpg

 

I'll be interested to see what your high lift leaf springs do for you. Apparently Juggernaut leaf springs give an extra load of clearance too.

 

 

There are some lovely details on your Sawback.

 

The Geolanders are great, not sure if they look to small on the Bruiser or not yet. Robbed them off my Lunchbox for the time being but wondering about getting something else for the Bruiser all in the name of experimentation.

 

 

I was considering something like these, but they are bigger than the bruiser tyres so might catch on the arches;

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-line-chisel-2.2-crawler-tyres-g8-with-memory-foam-inserts/rc-car-products/33457

 

pl1149-14.jpg

 

Or maybe just get inserts for the Bruiser tyres...

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Think I will stick with my way with the lettering, have a set of transition shocks to build but going to hang back until I see whats what with the leaf springs,the front prop is a pain I cannot get the 5% tilt without hitting the gearbox,but hey I will get there,some nice looking tyres there..

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From true it has a 5 degree angle towards the gearbox,check out your manual :yes: unless its me reading it wrong..

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I thought it's what you meant, I did that before fitting the axle to the car though. You just line it up one line from centre but make sure you go the right way. It's easy to go one line in the opposite direction. I did that first time, because the diagram is looking at it from the underside, or topside now, can't remember which. I have no issue with my driveshaft hitting anything, unless I push the front end down then it hits the gearbox but that's just the poor clearance at the front. Unless I went the wrong away and angling it 1 line from centre in the other direction would effectively give more clearance but put the propshaft at a steeper angle.

 

I'll go and have a recheck I think!

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Went and checked. I believe I did it correctly. It's actually half a line in one direction not one line as I said above.

Looking at the diagram, note the position of the prop and the shackle bolts, so when in situ, ie you would need to look at this image upside down so the bolts are bottom side, that would have the rear prop exiting at an upward angle.

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There is another image on the other side of the page showing the line markings which shows that it needs to be half a notch off centre. The weird thing is, if anything you'd maybe expect the prop to exit downward slightly to give it clearance from the gearbox, is it possible the manual is wrong I wonder? Or does the prop need to exit upward to reduce the angle on the prop effectively straightening it out more. Thing is, you can't fully compress threfront dampers, the prop hits the gearbox at about half compression!

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What are your thoughts?

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"Normal" running position of the output shaft will be in as straight a line as possible with the gearbox output so the prop shaft can rotate as freely as possible.

How hard is the front suspension?

I doubt it would be rubbing the box that much to be fair unless of course your ramping it in which case, fair play to ya.

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Thanks Gaz, I thought that was probably the argument for angling the shaft upward. The suspension is pretty much rock hard, from the videos I've watched the truck 'bounces' a lot at the front, pity because if it was softer at the front it would probably be more capable but it doesn't really have a lot clearance to be more compliant, 10mm I've just measured it at! The rear has a lot more travel.

Cheers

Nito

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Spot on guys I thought it was just me,when I was bench testing the motor I was pushing down on the front dampers and could feel it catching the gearbox, when I think about it what rc has that kind of downforce ? none I should imagine,thanks for the pics NITO :thumbsup: Iam a happy chappy now,still going to try the high lift springs though when they arrive.

 

Cheers guys..

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Will give it a few days for it to go off, iam going to take a few days as well :yes:

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Edited by ibo
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Looking good,

 

What primer have you gone with? Tamiya/Halfords?

 

Cheers

Nito

Its not a primer,its Humbrol Mid Grey,I use this all the time as a base coat more so on my boat building,well used to :yes:

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I did wonder seeing as you referred to it as a base coat. What preparation did you go with? Scuff it up with some sandpaper or scotchbrite first then straight to base coat?

Looks nice and smooth.

Cheers

Nito

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Give it a good wash in nice and warm soapy water,using a new green?yellow sponge then dry,I dont use any abrasives on it at all,if there is a small mark;blemish I will use brasso or T-cut just using my finger to rub no cloths,this is my method and works fine for me,but at the end of the day its down to the individual and type of surface they preparing.

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All done just the detail work on the cab next,I always paint the inside of my shells regardless of make :tease:

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Edited by ibo
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